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Yea some of them are different in how the engine is supported so it's not always required. With that said your right, I should have mentioned if you need more clearance to loosen the top mounts as I'm sure there are some models that it will make the job easier. Thanks for pointing this out, hope this helps others. Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!

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You still don't have the floor jack underneath the oil pan do you? If so, this will apply pressure upwards, and it will be hard to move motor. Hold on to the alternator like I did at 10:25 and you should be able to rotate motor forward. Good luck!

I currently don’t anything available right now that is in need of replacing any internal transmission sensors, however if I do I will for sure create a video walking through the repair. It sounds harder than it is, you just need to remove the driver side axle and the transmission case cover and the transmission speed sensor is right there. Check out this video here if not sure how to remove the axle as its a similar repair on the Buick Lacrosse (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7hzq9imreDeops.html). I would recommend while you are in there to replace the other shift solenoids as well as these are problematic on this 4T65-E transmission. Also, the wiring harness in there is very brittle and 99% of the time the clips break during install. I would also replace the internal wiring harness while you’re in there, here is link if not familiar: amzn.to/47Pi3je. If the clips break you can try to rig them up with zip ties but trust me I would just get the wiring harness as you don’t want to do the repair again. I have worked on 6 of these w body cars in the past with this exact problem. Most of the time shops just say the hard shifting is the tranny is bad, but all 6 I had with extremely hard shifting I replaced the 4 sensors/solenoids on the side of the transmission and it fixed all of them. This grand prix in this video had this exact transmission repair done at 200k, it now has 370k and is still running great. Good luck!

Correct if the motor mounts are good I doubt you will have that much movement to cause them to rub. With that said, when I did the rack and motor mounts on this vehicle, I do remember the ps lines being very close to the dipstick. Just grab the ps lines and gently pull them away with your hand...the idea is to gently adjust/bend them away from the transmission dipstick. If you ever worked on any brake lines, it's a very similar process where you can bend them into position which will give you more clearance. Just make sure your not overly bending them to cause a kink which will leak in the future. You can always add zip tie as well if you think they wont stay put. Hope this helps.

I usually hold the alternator and rotate by hand if I need to position the engine on the mounts (at 10:30 is an example). If you are struggling on the bottom mount, loosen or remove the top mounts and it will be easier. Hope this helps.

The reason the brackets are also replaced is because they have rubber inside them that deteriorates over time as well. With that said, the part of the mount that attaches to the engine bracket is the one that usually causes most of the problems for these top mounts. If you buy a couple of these mounts individually it almost cost what the entire kit cost which is why I recommend the kit. When buying the kit, you get both so most of the time they are both replaced.

GM doesn't specify to remove the top mounts first on the Grand Prix, however sometimes during the install of the new lower mount you're right it can help as some models are easier than others. However, you need to be careful as you dont want all the weight of the engine and transmission resting on your jack under the engine oil pan if you have both the top and lower mounts off at the same time. With that said, I should have probably mentioned in the video as sometimes it helps to at least loosen one of the top mounts (not always required tho). Thanks for bringing it up.

Why so the motor flops around???? Yes let's loosen 3 of the 4 mounts because that's a bright idea

No, that bolt will not be included with the mount. I believe the bolt for the engine mount at 8:09 is a M10X1.5X85 10.9 Hx Acorn Flange Head (GM 11588749 www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gm+genuine,11588749,body+bolt,1000374). The other bolt for that mount that attaches to the bracket is a M10X1.5X65.75 (GM 11588745). Just double check the lengths of both of those bolts you have, if the longer one is the one at 8:09 then my numbers here are correct. If you are in a pinch you can go to any GM dealer and they will have one in stock (will be little more money around $8) or a hardware store. If you go to a hardware and buy metric bolt just make sure its a 10.9 grade bolt and not some cheaper grade bolt. Hope this helps and good luck.

No, while doing the top mounts you dont need to worry about supporting the oil pan. Just make sure you have both the passenger side lower mount and transmission side mount connected as they will support the engine enough to do the top mounts.

I use GM service manuals which unfortunately aren't available for free. There really aren't any GM free pdfs, however if you are interested in a factory service manual to buy check this link here or go to Alldata: www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Mfg=GMC&Make=GMC&Model=SIER&Year=&Category=1&Keyword=&Module=&selected_media=ALL. Sometimes you can find them on ebay as well.

I've got the 2000-2005 monte carlo & impala service manuals which have everything about the 3800 engine that you would need to know. If you need pictures of certain pages, feel free to let me know and I can send them over to ya for free

Assuming you're talking about the lower passenger mount? If so, the top is ok if free spinning as this just means the bolt is broke loose from the mount so you can just raise the engine and remove the mount. Then just pull the bolt and nut out of the top of the lower engine bracket. If you're talking about the lower 2 bolts that attach to the subframe, you can try to pry up on the mount from the passenger side while you try to loosen the nuts from below. Sometimes the force you apply on the top will prevent the bolt from spinning. If that doesn't work the only other option is to cut them out which isn't going to be easy because of the location.

@@TeamDIYNow thanks a ton Hopefully this car can finally hit the road

@@chonkyloreraccoon3686 Glad I was able to help. Good luck!