Thanks!

No thank you.

Absolutely! Glad I was able to help.

Thanks a bunch!

Update

Thank you.

You’re welcome. We’ve been using the permeatex at the shop I work at for as long as I’ve been there and haven’t seen any issues yet. Doesn’t mean it hasn’t happened, just haven’t had it happen to me. I’ll check out the sly glide, I’m curious.

Back at you my friend!

Can’t remember now, but if I did it would burn off in the first couple hundred feet. Cheers!

Just get rid of the backing plates it's no big deal

If you don’t have a torch set, go get a map gas torch setup from The Home Depot! It’s not as hot as acetylene & oxygen, but is sometimes just enough to loosen rust seized problems! Also make sure to use a dental pick tool to clean the crevice on top of the ball joint like he did in this vid and spray some penetrating oil in it! Let it sit then try the heat!

To add to the gentleman's below reply,, be sure to only heat the control arm around the ball joint!! Heat makes metal expand! If you just heat the ball joint, you will be making it swell! Just like whenever removing seized studs or anything as such,, you always heat the metal around it! In the case of seized studs, not only would you be swelling the stud, you will be weakening the metal 'only while hot',, and if you put a wrench to it you will twist and eventually break it! What's worse is,, once you heat a stud,, you change it's consistency! Once it cools, the metal becomes hardened causing it impossible to drill out! Just an added lesson for those do it yourselfers who never used heat before! Good luck!

Also, if you never used heat before,,, if you used penetrating oil,, be careful because many of them are flammable! So be ready for that when you heat an area you already sprayed! And of course, always eye protection! Forgot to add this to my heating reply! :)

Smack the hell out of it to get it started to move. A good four pound mini sledge and some penetrating oil. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Once it starts moving, it'll damn near fall out.

I used a proportioning valve off a early 90s blazer that I picked up at a salvage yard.

@@HP116 thanks, I might look into that

Sorry for the late response. Yes it is torsion bar and I do not believe I had to unload it, a lot of times I’ll put a stand underneath the control arm when it’s time to reconnect the upper ball joint. If it won’t reach, I will back off the torsion bar key.

You should be able to feel a little resistance, but it shouldn’t be hard at all.

Generally yes it’s always a good idea, that being said, I still had to replace the other ball joint and an alignment can’t be done until all parts are tight

The lowers are forged. I just sold the truck yesterday :(

@@HP116 Thank you!!!

Those are stamped steel. Forged are only on k2500 series

My mistake. Just the end that the ball mount presses into is cast steel. The rest is stamped and welded.

Sorry my friend it’s been so long I have no idea. I haven’t even owned that suburban in over 2 years now

No sir. I’m in Sioux Falls, South Dakota.

Rock auto

@@HP116 what would it be under because I have a 1997 Chevy Silverado K1500

Suspension, then ball joint then go down to “premium”

@@HP116 is your control arm stamped, welded or forged?

@@sarahyates7054 mine was forged.

I want to say it’s an 18mm. I’d go check for you but I sold the suburban.

All good my man I appreciate the reply 🍺🍺

​@@HP116nowhere near an 18mm. It's huge

@@AFatherToTheFatherless it’s been a long while since I owned that burb, I may have misspoken haha

It's a 26mm wrench but a 27mm will work since nobody really carries 26mm wrenches. Lower one is 27mm

That would be a hard one. I think most parts stores will loan one out for free or cheap.

Thanks!

I’m in Nova Scotia Canada now, just moved. Was in Connecticut

That one was a 35. I see it fairly often with new cv shafts that it will have a different size axle nut. That shaft was replaced a few years back.

Sad part about being in the north, hard to find rust free trucks. They’re out there but generally lived down south then came up here.

Ive always wondered how mechanics from the south who move up here feel. Ive had a few Arizona trucks that Ive worked on, and it was almost too easy.

@HP116 I'm from Idaho and we don't have many rusty rigs here. Buy they must feel like the birds from the BP thing when they got cleaned

I’ve never tried but I don’t think it would be strong enough.

@HP116 its worth a try when I don't have have the press and tire shop wants 1430$. Is that a tool I could rent from vatozone?