No problem Mario! I've not seen any of those videos- but they do not come off, or go on, that easy. Glad I was able to show the true effort it takes even though I didn't know I was. Take care, G.

Mitt Nagivag That's great Mitt! Glad the video helped and you were able to use the hammer method to get things apart. Nothing wrong with getting some of your money back! Good tips- especially using your drill and some wood as a press-ish press. There's nothing like doing it yourself plus you saved some cash in the process. Good job! Take care, G.

+chicagomike6666 Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. Hey, at least you got it done! Not to mention how much you saved by doing it yourself. Good job! Take care, G.

That's not a bad idea. Thanks for sharing, G.

Glad it was helpful! G.

+Lucy Zeus That's a great way to get them off quickly! Thanks for the info. I'm sure it will help others out. Good luck, G.

Thanks Mac! LOL, that must have freaked you out. I didn't even know I was grunting until I was editing the video....lol. I cut the part out where I was sweet talking them, and then trying to scare them out....lol. It's tracking straight and it's nice and tight now. Working great! Thanks, G.

***** I would agree. I'd probably burn the whole thing down in the process...lol. G.

That's cool! I don't recall if I did that or not. Take care, G.

There you go! Good idea. G.

fuck you smartasss

Thanks! Take care, G.

LOL! Yep, that was me. Take care, G.

@@ghostses you too,keep up the good work,subd!

@@JoseContreras-mv5yz Will do and thanks! G.

Yeah Drew, one date with me and they'd be throwing rocks at him...lol. Glad you liked the video. Take care, G.

Lmao dude i was just getting ready to comment this same thing

+J. David Neel Thanks David! LOL, hopefully changing things out will tighten it up. That's quite a lift. I guess it has dropped pitman and Idler arms on it as well. Good luck with the work, G.

Thanks! Take care, G.

It would have been better to just replace upper control arms with ball joints in

+ih1206 Thanks! It's not a fun job, but it can be done. I will give a warning though related to the inexpensive brand of parts I used for this video. My truck started shaking and wandering again. Just two nights ago I replaced every component shown in the video as they were all shot. I've probably only put 5k on the new parts. I purchased Moog this time, and they did take back the other parts for a complete refund. The cheap parts were about $168, the Moog were about $500. If you can swing it, I would highly recommend using better parts or you might have to do the job again. Hope this helps and good luck with your job, G.

I'll keep that in mind. I got orielly specials for everything but the balls joints since those are known to go bad. Doing the job again if need be isn't an issue, it's finding the time. Things should come apart easier too.

***** Good deal! That's the ones I used for the idler, idler bracket, pitman arm- and ball joints in my case. Hopefully your specials will last way longer than mine did. Take care, G.

***** hugging the

That's cool. Good luck with your job, G.

Good info Bain. I'm hopeful these will serve me well. I spent so much on the engine rebuild I had to cut back somewhere. If they become an ongoing problem, I will purchase Moog down the road. I do try to stay away from rebuilt parts. It's like a turkey shoot from one to the next...lol. G.

I don't know if honing out the hole would be a great idea. I do know there are two different ball joints for this truck. Perhaps the one's you have are incorrect? Not much info, but hope this helps. G.

Good luck with your project! G.

+MOAArtstore No problem! Good luck with your project. You got me..lol. I can't imagine my life without the internet, and I somehow managed to get things done well before it came along..lol. Take care, G.

we did it by guessing, cussing, and MANY trips to the parts store. lol

I wouldn't think of starting a project without a "Chilton " or "Haynes " manual. (without the internet). Itvis still nice to have the manual for unusual or just a little more data. Good luck!

Yep Chitons/Haynes and there was also forums before KZfaq came along.

Thanks! Take care, G.

Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Take care, G.

Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Good luck, G.

No problem! I believe the tool would be a requirement to get the job done. You might be able to rent one from any parts store. They might not have the proper cups to accept the joint though. This is the actual tool I used. www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html This is a kit that has other cups that should work. www.harborfreight.com/master-ball-joint-adapter-set-14pc-60307.html It's not the easiest job, but can be done for sure. Yep, two kicks and slipping off is all bad for sure!!...lol. Hope this helps and good luck, G.

No problem Jose. I bet you can pull it off. Good luck, G.

Man TG, it's hard to remember, but I do believe I did take the bolts out of the steering box, but didn't remove the lines. A bit late, but hope this helps. Good luck, G.

ghostses Thanks very much for getting back to me! I appreciate the advice. My ‘98 Z71 may be due for that pitman arm sometime soon...

@@BusyFingers No problem! Take care, G.

Good deal Bob! Take care, G.

Thanks Lee! Good catch on the year, I didn't even notice I said that. I had an 86, then a 94, and on to the 98. Too many numbers to process...lol. It's a great truck for sure. It's not a fun job, but with the proper tools it can be done without too much pain. I think the job took around 6-7 hours but it's hard to say since I was filming it. That always makes things take much longer. Plus I'm usually in no hurry so I tend to dally around a bit. Take care, G.

Thanks PJ! They were OEM for sure. I know the entire history on the truck since it's been in the family since new. It's had an easy life. But yeah, 200k is pretty impressive for sure. I agree, the arms seem cheesy. I would mainly use forks when I thought I would bang in someones fender...lol. The hammer I was using was too light for the task, but I got it done. My dad broke the handle on his hand sledge and hasn't picked up a new one yet. I had mine at home, but didn't want to go get it. I agree on pull vs push and have busted many a knuckle pushing...lol. That brings me to a short story when I was doing a rear alignment on a Honda eons ago. I was pulling with the box end on the nut, 22mm I believe, when it slipped off and cracked me on the bridge of the nose. It almost knocked me out. Needless to say I thought I was going to bleed out...lol I broke it plenty good. I think it's been broken two more times over various things. It seems once they break, the break again even easier. Take care, G.

***** Yow! My eyes started watering just reading about it...Slamin & Jamin for the clock will get you when you least expect it. Mine was an ancient, nasty ford truck, bout severed my thumb on the fender well when it came loose but would have cracked me on the nose if I hadn't...either way It's All Bad! LOL

pjsalchemy LOL. Yeah, it's like when I see someone fall on their knees mine start aching. All bad either way for sure. G.

Dennis, this truck took the joint for the forged lower A. Here's a link that shows both types of lower A's. Not sure of the year, but should give you an idea. Good luck, G. www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/control-arm-ball-joint-question.145187/

Don't get me lying Mark, but I think it was a 32mm that I used. Good luck with your project! G.

***** Thanks, I am going to by a 13 piece metric deep impact socket set tomorrow. The biggest one on that rack is 32mm, so I hope 32mm is right. If not I will run over to Ace and buy a single, I had every size socket and tool known to man (well except a ball joint tool). I don't know what happened to all my 1/2 inch drive sockets, I guess they got lost from the moving company. While digging thru my tool boxes today I noticed a lot of my other Snap On tools are missing also. Thanks for fast reply.

Mark Mcgrath No problem Mark! Hopefully the 32 in the rack will be the correct one. If any of my Snap-on tools were taken during a move- I'd be hunting all of the movers down with a vengeance. I hope they were just misplaced and turn up with more digging. G.

Mark Mcgrath It's 36mm

***** I couldn't remember the size Ed. Thanks for clarifying so others will be equipped! G.

Jesse, I'd say it was probably about 20min since I had to figure out some methods on the first side. Take care, G.

LOL! I picked that up from my instructor years ago. He was talking about the importance of using stands and never trusting a jack. I guess it stuck with me since I didn't even register I said it...lol. He also went on to say that your mama would find you pinned under the car and would be heartbroken and stricken with grief- or something to that effect. Everything funny he said, he said it with a straight face...lol My dad picked up the lift from somewhere. They're great for under carriage work, but can be a pain when taking off the wheels if you don't have the jacks that can be installed on them- which he doesn't. This isn't the exact brand he has, but it pretty much looks like this one. www.radliftsbygemini.com/product-sg7000.php Take care, G.

Thanks G.

Sirus No problem! G.

I don't know of any reason you couldn't remove them first. I would first break the joint apart then loosely tighten the nut back up. G.

Thanks Jeff. Take care, G.

Very true Eric! Take care, G.

Thanks Rich! G.

rotcodnatas No problem! Glad you liked it. Take care, G.

@@ghostses Yeah, it's good that you stressed safety. Balljoint is not something you can do from above the vehicle.

LOL! That's right! G.

Your not kidding, Roland. I like having the 4 wheel, until I need to work on it...lol. G.

I have them...lol. My tools are spread out between my shop and my dads. This was the biggest one I could find at the time. Undersized, but it got the job done. Take care, G.

Thanks Patrick! Goober was THE man! Good luck with your job. G.

+Enrique McDonald Enrique, it's called an air hammer. Hope this helps, G.

Its called an air chisel.

Christian, from setup to clean-up it probably took me about 1.5hrs. I don't know how much time you have in shop- but you could do one side one day, then the other on another day. Or ask the shop teacher if you can leave it on the rack till you're finished with it- and get a ride from a friend if it's not finished. With you not being experienced it really might take a couple of days to do it- but it is what it is. Try not to be lazy- just jump in and get it done...lol. Remember though- after you're finished, you will need to take it to a shop to get an alignment. Or if the school shop has an alignment rack- you could do it there. Let me know how it goes and good luck! Take care, G.

xr29fb32 If you mean the ball joint wont separate from the steering knuckle- you might want to try a 4 pound hammer. If you're trying to remove the ball joint from the control arm, you will need a ball joint press. I'm not sure of trying to use a jaw type puller in either scenario. G.

Sorry Jose, I don't. Good luck, G.

+Timothy Haun That's sure what it sounds like to me Timothy. I did find three different ones at O'reilly Auto that might work. Check them out to see for sure. Hope this helps, G. www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Spindle!s!Axle+Washer/01234/C0362.oap?model=Yukon&vi=1166419&year=1995&make=GMC

Wow man, you're a life saver!

+Timothy Haun Glad to help! Take care, G.

+ghostses Hey G, got it all back together. My string alignment was surprisingly accurate, but there is a problem. Whenever parking or cutting the wheel sharply every once in a while there is a "popping" sound. I double checked the work and everything is back as it should be. Could I have over tightened something?

+Timothy Haun Hmm. My first thought would be a bad ball joint causing the popping. My truck was doing the same thing before I changed everything out- mostly in parking spots like you mention. I did change upper and lowers, the pitman arm, idler arm, and idler bracket all at the same time so it could have been any one of those causing the problem. You didn't mention all you changed out so I'm not sure in your case. I doubt you over tightened something. Another thing you might check is the hub bearings for play. Good luck, G.

No problem John! Glad it helped you out. I slightly remember watching the show when I was young. I'll have to try and find it. Good luck, G.

While I can't say for sure Joaquin, I do believe that would be a safe assumption. Good luck, G.

Thanks man! Take care, G.

No rivets on the lower, they just press out. Good luck, G.

Mine were Hex. Some may be different. Take care, G.

@@ghostses mine were as well ... Socket was a typo comment has been edited to reflect t55 hex

That's cool. Good luck, G.

Doug, it probably took a couple of hours to do both sides- as a guess. Good luck, G.

Tee, I believe it was a 36mm. Good luck, G.

I believe it's a 36mm Scott. Good luck, G.

ghostses thank you! I was driving down the road at a pretty good rate of speed when my upper balljoint let lose. I almost rolled my truck. I went up on two wheels after my tire folded under my truck. All I could smell was burnt rubber. Scared the hell out of me.

No problem! Glad you made it out OK. Take care, G.

+Paul Davis Thanks Paul. Not sure why I'm just seeing your comment. Yes, I am left handed. Take care, G.

+ghostses I thought so. You have a very artistic style to your work. BTW I am surrounded by lefties. Wife and daughters.

+Paul Davis Thanks! That's cool, I'm sure they keep you on your toes...lol. I have tons in my extended family. G.

Sorry, I can't remember. It was 30 something mm is all I can recall. G.

No problem! G.

Moon Hitsearth Yes I have...lol. I guess after a while the thermal printing disappears. Pretty convenient inst it..lol. Take care, G.

***** Take a picture,

Moon Hitsearth Good idea! G.

Yeah, Great point. Now that you point it out. Thanks

Not familiar with that one. Hope you got it though. Take care, G.

These came from O'rielly. They didn't last very long. I returned them, and paid the difference to get Moog. G.

That's true, I just don't have that attachment. Yeah, they're not much fun to do. Take care, G.

There you go! G.

Hmm, what's the problem? G.

Yeah, I bet. I couldn't find a bigger one for the task, but we got it done... Take care, G.

That's cool! Take care, G.

I would check the ride height to make sure it's correct before cutting things off. You can probably find the measurements somewhere online- and how to take them. If it's not correct, you should be able to adjust the torsion bars to bring it into specs. Then get an alignment. Good luck, G.

Great tips! I'm sure it will help others. Take care, G.

It is! The second should go a bit faster. Good luck, G.

@@ghostses Yep, a lot faster. Man, wish I bought new control arms instead..lol Stupid rivets! I just finished up, also cleaned up a bunch of rust and treated it with a converter. If you ever decide to try that, Corroseal, easy peasy.. Thanks for makin the vid!

That's cool Mark! The first one always takes the longest since you have to figure out what works, what doesn't, tricks, etc. Yeah, the rivets suck for sure. Glad you got it though. Glad the video was useful. Take care, G.

+paul erenberger I've heard that before so I must to a degree...lol. The press was a friends and was purchased from Harbor Freight. Good luck, G.

+ghostses I hear the HF one isn't a bad press at all if your just smart with it. I have quite a bit of Mac and Snap-on tools, as I used to wrench before joining the Union Pipefitters, but I did have several HF tools that I can't complain about!

+paul erenberger It's really not a bad press at all Paul- especially for what they cost. But, like you say- you have to be smart with it. I too have tons of Snap-on and some Mac tools from when I was wrenching decades ago. We had a couple of Snap-on shop supplied presses and even they were jacked from miss-use. Agreed! I've purchased a lot of HF items and am pleased with the majority of them. One could almost load up a box with HF tools for what a Snap-on Master kit costs. It's a great place for diy and shade tree folks that are on a budget. They have tons of specialty tools that you could normally only find on a tool truck, or maybe rent from an auto store but they're usually hammered...lol. Pretty cool place. Take care, G. G.

+ghostses one last thing, just wanted to say thanks for the videos you make and the reviews. They are helpful! Keep on keeping on man. Have a good one!

paul erenberger Thanks Paul! G.

***** Thanks for the input Ed, and no I didn't torque them down. The bearings already have around 200k on them so if any go bad, they will be changed out. I should have mentioned that an alignment should be done after preforming any front end work, but spaced it. It's a given to me, but I should have mentioned it for those that don't know and might wonder why their steering wheel isn't straight and they're burning their tires off the vehicle...lol. Take care, G.

Good deal Rick! Glad it worked out for you. Take care, G.

I misspoke Travis- It's a 98. Take care, G.

+Bobby Magee Pretty keen eye there Bobby! It does look that way on the video, but it really was further on the rack than it appears. Take care, G.

Won't fit with the rack in the way. G.

+Justin C That I did. I misspoke, it's a 98. Take care, G.

I wasn't growling, just pointing it out cause I'm bored lol.

+Justin C No worries! Good luck, G.

98 Eldon. I think I said 89 somewhere- but that was wrong. Good luck, G.

+cadauctions31 LOL!! G.

Yeah, it's a 98. My past truck was an 89 so I got confused. Take care, G.

@@ghostses i caught that. Good vid tho. Thanks

@@thiseconomyisfailing4451 Good deal! G.

Glad you liked the info you got for free. As for the rest- fuck you! How does that sit???

+BAR 20 BBQ. I was, every component failed in short order. I returned them for a complete refund and went Moog the second time around. So far so good. G.

i bet. i've been in the parts biz for over 30 yrs. have not seen any other suspension parts better than moog.

BAR 20 BBQ Agreed, when I was doing suspension and steering about 25yrs ago- that's all I would use. I was hoping things changed since then, and I could save some money, but I was wrong..lol. G.

+south9563 I think it was Master Pro- but same same. The work is the same either way. I did have to do the job again since all of them failed inside of 5k miles. I got a full refund and went with Moog. G.

+ghostses omg, 5k miles? thats a record, ive seen it as low as 9k but not 5k, moog is definitley the way to go, it saves time and money. ACDelco also but only the "Proffesional" line, other than that, the "Daily driver" line is just as bad as Master Pro. Do you have any feedback on Duralast from autozone, i went Duralast on my idler arm and idler arm bracket. I did however go MOOG on pitman arm.

+south9563 Yeah, I was really surprised- and all highway miles too- no rough terrain. If I ever cheap out on anything now, it will be a direct bolt on something that can be changed again without major surgery. No, no opinion on Duralast. At least it's a little easier to change than the pitman if it goes south on you. G.

I was looking at Mevotech TTX line (TXK6477) for the lower ball joints, these are a little more money than Moog. Factory lower ball joints from the dealer are like 10 bucks more than Moog, but the upper ones are crazy expensive.

+Zulkifli Abraham How so? Your blanket statement leaves much to be desired. I checked for your video and couldn't find it. Send me the link so I can see what "good work" is. G.

Ouch!

LOL!! It's not fun by any stretch. Good luck with your job, G.