I just replaced the Intake Manifold (IM) on my wife's 2008 E350 (165K) and this excellent video was the key to my success. I watched the video several times before, during and even after I completed the work. The difference in low end torque and idle smoothness was very noticeable. Here are a couple of comments / observations: 1) After removing the engine cover and Powertrain Control Module (PCM), I found it easier to begin removing the wiring harness at the front and working towards the back because it allowed me to spread the wiring loom to open in a natural manner as I went along, analogous to a bird spreading its wings (I cut all the zip ties and replaced them during reassembly). By doing this I had plenty of room to work without the need to suspend or hold the loom back with bungee cords in order to pull out the IM. Be aware of the connector for the coolant temp sensor, which is located behind the serpentine belt, close to the idler pulley. It's a bit tricky to find and disconnect/reconnect (extra long needle pliers are very helpful here), but doing so will allow you to pull the left (driver) side of the loom farther away from the IM. I would strongly recommend taking a number of pictures of the loom before disassembly as it can be very beneficial when trying to put everything back together. 2) Be careful with the long vacuum hose/tube that runs from the valve that sits low in the front left and runs all the way back to the top of the throttle body. In addition to both the tube and hoses being hard and brittle from heat and age, the rubber hoses are likely seized to the plastic tubing, making them very hard to remove yet easy to break. I made the mistake of pivoting the whole vacuum line to the front of the engine after pulling the hose off from the Throttle Body (TB) and consequently tore the rubber elbow that connects the other end of the tube to the actuator valve that allows gas fumes from the evap canister to be drawn into the TB. The same caution applies to the two small vacuum hoses that plug into the front of the IM. Both of these hoses tore when I tried to pull them off and I ended up replacing them with silicone hoses, which are more flexible and heat resistant than rubber. It also allowed me to cut them a little longer than OEM, which made reattachment to the new IM much easier. You can easily detach the MAP sensor from it's holder on the loom, making it unnecessary to pull the hose off the sensor (assuming it did not tear it and you plan to reuse it). 3) After removing the MAF sensor and air intake elbow, I opted to not remove the TB from the IM until after I had pulled it out completely. This made removing and replacing the TB a snap. I also concur that removing the two fittings for lifting the engine made it much easier to pull out the loom out from underneath the fuel rail and thereby access the two furthest back IM bolts. 4) To answer a question other several commenters asked, it's not absolutely necessary to remove the fuel rail if the left side lifting hook is removed (in order to allow the wiring harness to slide out from underneath it), but I decided to do it anyway because I wanted to clean the injectors in addition to replacing both the upper and lower o-rings, seeing as it had never been done before. If you decide to pull the injectors out then I suggest making note of how they and the retaining clips are oriented. To be specific, the injector sockets need to face inwardly and the back of the retaining clip rests against the flat side of the flange. Also be aware that you may have difficulty engaging the clip with the groove in the injector if they are inserted too far into their tubes. 5) I decided to tap out the stanchions in the new IM (M6 X 1.0) before reinstalling the IM, which made reinstalling the Torx and eTorx bolts much easier. As mentioned in the video, I did have trouble getting the two gaskets to stay attached to the IM after flipping it over, but if at least one of the retainers holds fast then you should be able to hold the gaskets in place with your fingers while lowering the IM into position. If you reattached the TB to the IM when it was off the block then be sure to reattach the connector to the TB before setting it into place. 6) Reinstalling the wiring harness can be a bit perplexing if you did not take pictures or pay close attention how the loom weaves in and out between the fuel rail and the vacuum hose. Also be sure to push the locking tabs on the connectors back in fully, which serves to confirm the connector is fully seated and latched. The video points out that the harness runs underneath the fuel rail at the back left corner, but also be sure to reconnect the tumble flap position sensors before sliding the wiring harness underneath the fuel rail. I recommend waiting til the harness is fully back in place before bolting it down and reinstalling the lifting hooks, just in case you forget to do this (like I did). I took the time to clean all the connectors with contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease to the outside of sockets in order to make the connectors slide on more easily, in addition to creating a seal against moisture. I also put silicone grease on rubber component such as the MAF seal in the engine cover. Between breaks, trips to the store, extra steps not shown in the video and google searches, I can't say for sure how much actual work time it would have taken me to do the job, but suffice it to say that I took my time and have no regrets because I had no codes nor lost any bolts. Most of all, my car idles and accelerates much more smoothly and with much greater low end torque. My parting comment is regarding what IM you choose to buy. I got mine from ebay for $200 and was pleased with the quality plus the fact it included both the IM and TB gaskets, which not all sellers do so keep this in mind when shopping. Also, no IMs that I saw came with the fuel injector o-rings and I had trouble finding them in any auto parts store. If your car is a daily driver and you don't have a back-up vehicle then suggest paying extra attention to having everything you need before starting this job.

From one tech to another, thank you, great instructional with no fluff, straight to the point!

Amazing guide. Thanks for posting!

Thank you Brian and HTA for this great video series. My car, 2007 CLK350 (175k miles) began idling rough and burning some oil. I was overdue for a service after the pandemic so I brought it into an indie shop. New to me, but they are very well known. They found faults for tumble flap stuck, etc.. and cam adjuster issues. Their quote to do the intake manifold was $1.550 and the cam adjuster magnets and sensors was $1,824. I figured if I was doing the intake manifold, i might as well do the cam adjusters. And a bonus, I also did the spark plugs as well. The quote to do all 3 of these was over $3,500, but I did it all myself for less than $800, all OEM parts. On the cam adjusters, I didn't have to remove the oil cooler or power steering reservoir. One issue I found on my car were brittle electrical connections from the wiring harness. I took as much care as I could, but about 3 of the locking tabs broke on me. If they come loose, I guess I will have to glue? Or maybe some kind of heat shrink jacket. Anyway, thanks again. I'm glad I did this myself and saved the money. One question, does the computer clear all the fault codes itself, or does this have to be done with a code reader?

Excellently presented video!

Thanks man this helped a ton. Banged this out today using this video as my guide. Excellent.

thank you for your quick answer i will check all connections that I have unplugged and I'll keep you informed of the evolution of the troubleshooting in any case thank you for your help. good day.

This is a nicely done video! Extremely helpful! Thank you for taking the time to make the video.

Thanx for the educational video.

I have 2007 e350 and need to do the exact same job, the guy one $2,100 for this. thank you very much!!! I'm going to attempt to do it myself with the help of your video Thank you again. New Subscriber👍

I watched this video to replace my intake manifold, and everything went smoothly!! I suggest you watching this video a few times before doing it yourself. Then you’ll remember to do things better!

Great video, thanks so much for posting. I just did this job slowly and carefully following your instructions over a weekend on my R350 and it worked out perfectly. Fitted an aluminum lever to my old intake rather than fit a new one. Did this job for the cost of the gaskets and the new lever - about $50 all in :)

Great video. I’m doing the exact same job tomorrow so this video definitely gets me ready for the job. It will be my first time replacing an intake manifold on a Mercedes.

Great easy to understand video. No faffing around with unnecessary narrative. Straight to the point. My clk 350 appears to be having a P2118 code and investigation shows that the manifold gasket is leaking from the right hand bank and taking in air. Do Mercedes just sell the manifold gaskets??

Great video and great job. Thanks alot

Good video! The job can be done without removing the fuel rail!. Remove the engine hoist eye on the drivers side and the wiring loom can be pushed back on that side to access the last manifold torx bolt.

Mine needs replacement too but I'll see your video a several time to see if I convince myself to do the job soon

perfect video. thank you

You are the best

Hi Brian, first of all thank you for your great video, it helped a lot. I noticed a P2006 (stuck in in-active position) which is there for almost ever, but never had any side effects. Now two years ago I had the problem, that my car did not pass emission testing (due to micro rev variation within the electronic testing cycle) which is mandatory here. So I decided to follow your video and get a closer look at this manifold. After checking the triangle and all the flaps I found out all of them are ok and they are still working. So would you a) still exchange the manifold, b) upgrade the manifold with the metal triangle or c) just built it back in? Maybe there is also anything else to check on it, while it’s not installed? Thank you very much.

the best explain explain ever . thanks for hard work :}

Excellent video

Great Video. What is the signs of bad air intake manifold??

Great video........I have this occur on my 08 e350 & this video is by far the best I have seen. U make it seem very simple. Them only complexity is recalling all that is 2 b unplugged which is nothing. Please inform me how I can see all your videos.

Thank you

You really made this look simple. How do you not forget where each screw goes?

Awesome job perfect fast and well done . you good

Hey I fixed p2006 which was the bank 1 runner stuck closed and now Im getting p2015 which is intake runner bank 1 sensor/switch circuit/range performance. Never had this code till I replaced the triangle swivel with a metal one. Any ideas?

how much book time does Mercedes recommend, I have to do this on a W204 with M272 motor.

I know question is vague, but my 2008 e350 has p2015 code, I have fell into the loophole of reading a bunch of forums. Should I replace the whole intake manifold or does p2015 have a specific part ? Also do you know by any chance If p2015 causes engine misfires because I also have misfire codes and replaced all my coils and plugs already Thank you

Thanks for posting! How long would you say someone doing this job for the first time and moderate mechanical ability would take?

I have to agree waste no time you get an a+ thank you

Great Job and very helpful. Would it help if you used SeaFoam regularly to help clean the intake / injectors to prevent premature failure of the intake gates inside the manifold? Also, how long did it take you to perform this change?

Awesome video, any way to replace the control flap on the front of the manifold without taking it off? looks like you may be able to remove the waterpump.

Great video. Where are you located?

What was the mileage when this part failed ? Thanks.

Do you have any video on how to replace the valve cove gasket on l350

Hi I replaced the whole manifold with new and got a p2015 code afterwards any idea?

Great vid...is this a common failure?

Thanks for the video. I did a complete disassembly of the fuel rail and when I put it back on, I accidentally used the longer bolts meant for the throttle body and since they’re self tapping, they went clear through into the intake manifold. I could not stomach purchasing another one and still installed it Swapping out the bolts and cleaning out the metal dust of course. What problems do you foresee down the road?

I have a P2004 error on my Mercedes E350 2007 and some sources say in this case i have to replace the throttle lever, do i have to change the entire intake manifold, or replacing the lever only will do the thing ? Thanks and by the way your videos are great !

Is this OEM part? If not any problem so far?

thanks for this. do you happen to know the size of the vacuum hoses at the front of the intake that connect to the clear lines

How Much did you charge for that? I need the exact same thing done on my 2008 e350, I would like to know if there trying to rip me off

The question I have is why does a 2008 vehicle need it's intake manifold replaced? Great videos by the way. thank you.

thanks for the video Brian. I gonna do the job myself. My question is, Does the new peirburg intake come with an updated tumble flap bracket? or do I need to buy an aluminum one and install it before I put the new intake on the engine? Thank you!

Is this the same process for a E550?

Looks very similar to my 07 C230 2.5 V6. Should I do anything differently for that?

Part number for the injector o-rings?

How can I get the intake new one 350 2008

So I just did this job on a 06 Mercedes E500...realized I plugged everything back in except for one random hose that looks like it’s running from the bottom of the manifold running towards the front of the engine. I have no idea where it goes. HELPP

how much do you charge to do this? can I drive down and back up the same day from LA?

Hello I am French and sorry for my bad English it is from the translator. I would like to thank you first for your very accurate video I was able to you by dismounting and reassembling the intake manifold and replace the biellete which was broken. but after having everything back I misfire cylinder 1 and 5 and a fault of the random cylinder and to finish a problem with the brakes. Then I change my candles I change the air flow and inverted the ignition coils nothing does it please you could help me out. thank you in advance bonjour je suis français et désolé pour mon mauvais anglais il est issue du traducteur .je voudrais tout d abord vous remercier pour votre vidéo très précise j' ai pu grâce a vous démonter et remonter le collecteur d'admission et remplacer la biellette qui était cassé. Mais après avoir tout remonter j'ai des ratés d'allumage cylindre 1 et 5 et un défaut du cylindre aléatoire et pour finir un problème avec les freins .alors j'ai changer mes bougies j'ai changer le débitmètre d'air et inversé les bobines d'allumage rien y fait s'il vous plais pourriez vous me dépanner .merci par avance .

How to symbol the hoses to connect everything together again

I did this to my 07 E350 carefully step by step after I did my check engine came on in it came out to be the airmass flow sensor so I changed it after few day it came back on stating the same n it causing other issue..its a head ache I change the m.a.f 3 times..

What went bad on this part for to replace it

Would it affect acceleration if one was broke?

why didn't you leave the fuel rail on the intake?

Just replaced the intake on a 2006 Mercedes E350. Although this video is for a 2008 model year, it was my particular vehicle exactly step by step. Like the gentleman in comments below me, I watched this video several times before doing the work. The original intake on my vehicle had the typical break on the plastic parts that continually fail these models. The car performs really well at this point and I'm super happy. Thank you very much for this video.

You do realize looking at the down elbow below the maf it's soaked with oil and to the throttle body. Trace where that oil comes from? Tip.. follow the black rubber hose at the elbow and your source of this air take issue is at that spot. No resolution as this is how it's designed. This same problem will happen again even if you put a new air intake manifold with oil fumes coming in from that black rubber tube .

Don't understand why some people have given a thumbs down.

how much does it cost a intake monifold for ml 350 2008

Contact me if you live in Atlanta area and you need replacement of Mercedes intake manifold. I do also have one extra on shelves that fit C, E and S class. $200 for new intake and total labor cost $250.

Looks easy. Not. Good video though.