Taking the bottom cowl off makes this a whole lot easier. Just an FYI. A couple screws and you’re good to go

Nice Video with good details, it would be helpful if you had part numbers listed in description. Never the less, great video !

Thanks for the video. I need to do mine soon. 👍

The most important aspect is if the spring and grommet and seal in that assembly is hung up in any way, or if you forget a seal in the spring assembly, your poppet will be stuck open. You will have a weak P stream, and you will have alarms and guardian mode. Parts 11 through 17 in the BOM are important. Google the Mercury parts catalog and look up the exploded parts view for your engine. This will tell you how to assemble and show you the proper orientation of the various piece's. Be especially careful with the grommet which fits inside the carrier. Do not fold or pinch the edge of the grommet seal or it will leak = alarms. Newer engines do not have/use the white washer.

Sir this is an EXCELLENT video and because of your work I now feel confident that I can change out the poppet valve on my 89 Blk Max 150 engine! One question : What make of cordless wrench are you using to remove those 1/2 bolts on the poppet valve? I`d love to get my hands on one of those

way easier with the lower cowl removed.

When you are disassembly , I seen the very large silver washer behind the diaphragm (merc 16496) was stuck in there pretty good. Do you think that is why your poppet valve was failed?

Greetings again PW! -- Pulled my poppet valve and doing the rebuild. Did you ever find a function for the thick black washer/ring you are holding at 14:44? I have the same piece and not sure where it's needed. Thanks, Stew

I appreciate this well done video. I have looked at several and this is the best. I have one question. At approximately 14:45 in the video, you show a part #65848 (Carrier) . You look at the package and then set it aside. I don't see what you do with it. I have the same part and I can't figure out where it goes. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Thanks for this video. Helped me a lot. It was a pain to get it back in and get the bolts in. Question: on the very outside metal cover directly over the poppet valve, there is a small hole at the bottom. When I start my motor, water is coming out of that hole. I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to be happening? Any idea why that would be happening? I replaced everything inside, same as you did. Thanks in advance for any help.

Excellent video I have been searching for this for some time now. I have a 92 Merc XR6 that I will be doing the same. How did you ID all the part numbers? And was this preventative maintenance or was there an over heating problem? Did you notice a stronger pee stream after replacement ? Thanks so much.

dude??? Why didn't you just take off the side cover? Three bolts and you have direct access without fighting everything?

Great Videos- I learn something every time. Where do you like to buy your OEM Quicksilver parts? I’m looking for a cost effective & reliable source…

Where did you put the Carrier piece? I didn't see you place it anywhere and my kit also came with one.

What's the reason to replace sll parts? The only thing that may be degraded would be the diaphragm. Poppet valve may be clogged closed with rust and deposits which I think is my case as engine temperature is alright beliw 1500rpm but if I jump to 3000 rpm temperature needle goes to 3/4 in a couple of minutes when alarm starts sounding. Going back to 1500 rpm cools the engine stopiing from sounding the alarm quickly. soon showing less than 1/2 at temperature gauge in the next coulple of minutes. Looks like valve doesn't move when water pressure gets high enough as rpm increases from 700 at idling to 1500 twice as much or 3000 rpm 4 times higher than 750rpm. I believe that my poppet doesn't move. Cleaning and replacing gaskets should be enough, but I do understand that replacing everything might be advisable. I've read that thermostats regulate temperature below 1500rpm while poppet should be closed, and poppet regulates temperature by starting opening above 1500rpm.

I have a question, the screw that goes into the back of the actual plug with the spring, does that screw actually screw all the way in? Mine only went probably half way before it got really tight?

Hi great video!! I have same motor just a 225hp. My poppet valve is leaking at higher rpm. Do you know is there a way to tell if it the valve bad or something else? Someone said typically if it was something else it a blockage in exhaust but highly unlikely. Any suggestions? Thanks

How tight or loose do you want that spring to be when replacing it? Because you can have a lot of play or not much at all. Removed mine a few days ago and I don’t remember how tight the old one was.

Blackmax

Noticed you had a carrier grommet, where does that go

Hi I’m doing this fix my self I have a question the carrier it’s hard to take it out I didn’t see you replace it in your video is that inside where the grommet is at?

👍

Do you have to wait a few minutes before it start peeing as you wait for the thermostats to open?

Looks like a 200 will use the same parts as a 135?

How tight do you screw the screw in on the poppet valve itself not the housing?

Hey I have that exact same engine! I think they are pretty rare, although it is very similar to the rest of the mercury line from that era. Even the Optimax shares a lot of parts. Question: How hard is it to take the lower cowling off for better access? I have stories about my motor, oh boy. Years ago I spun a bearing and had that rebuilt. Somehow the idiot mechanic that did it managed to get the block back together right, or at least I hope so, but he managed to plumb the hose that is supposed to take water from the top of the engine to the poppet valve directly to the tell-tale, and route the hose that is suppose to go from the thermostat out to the tell tale, no he routed it through the thermal air valve (which is supposed to go to the carburetor) and then to the poppet valve. The hose to the carburetor was left lying at the bottom of the cowling. Not surprisingly, this cause poor cold starting and engine temperature issues (running too cold at low power). Surprisingly the thermal air valve still works despite having water flowing through it for years before I finally figured out what has all wrong, which is good because you can't get those anymore. Maybe used but I only found one and the guy wanted $300 for it. Strangely, this duffus mechanic had to add a hose to get his replumbing masterpiece done, which should have been a sign that maybe he was doing it wrong, whereas I was able to correct it using just the factory hoses. And this was a Mercury dealer! Thankfully they are out of business now. I had another shop replace my steering cable, and the guy managed to crush the transom and put the rack on upside down so the steering was backwards! Thankfully they fixed it for free and fired the guy, but sheesh. How hard is it to do a steering cable? Wouldn't you turn the wheel a bit to make sure the motor was going the right way? Good help is so hard to find. So bottom line is it better to fix these things yourself. They main reason I didn't do the steering cable myself, I tried, but it turns out my motor had to be lifted to get the cable out/in (or cut the boat which I didn't want to do). I didn't have a hoist at the time. So anyway, I was hoping in this video to catch a glimpse of the back of the engine to confirm my plumbing, but I did not. Still a good video though. I think I will rebuild my poppet valve too, just because it is a very important part of the cooling system and it hasn't been done, and it doesn't look like a big job. Easier than replacing the impeller I think.