He is one of the greatest content creators he has taught me so much in the last two years

Good honest content will always attract those wanting to watch a nice learning experience.

I just said.. to my daughter(with a broken lawnmower)... " My interwebs husband is a small engine guy!"

He should have millions of subscribers. The world works be a better place if he did.

Memphis belle

Same, he has also given me confidence to tackle stuff myself. He is the dad or shop teacher we all wish we had.

Same here. I was somewhat a good DIYer but he taught me so much more ! **Plus, he's the only man on earth I'd watch cutting his lawn ! 🤣

I also solved my most complicated issues with my truck , after watching the video of his Toyota truck had a sudden misfire code and as soon as he described the possibility of what it might be , instantly I knew that he had solved this for me . I'm still impressed .

Me too

@@marcryvon Say whaaaaaat? I love mowing grass because it's so satisfying! I built a striper roller for my mower so that it makes really strong, bold lines/stripes/rows when cutting. I just used a section of ABS (you can use PVC but I though black ABS was more handsome) with 2 "test plug" end caps to make the roller's cylinder. I bought about 50 pounds of lead bullet casting ingots and melted them down into cylindrical hockey pucks by melting them slowly with my acetylene TurboTorch and dripping them into old cat food/tuna cans which were just a bit smaller than the ID of the ABS pipe. I cut the pipe to be as wide as the width of the mower from the outer side of each wheel. The test plugs cap off the ends from inside and are flush with the end, so the roller sits flat and level from edge to edge of the mower flattening the entire patch of grass that the mower touches so it's a solid and uniform stripe. I used CA glue to put one cap on, then I put the new round lead ingots in one by one, filling the gap around them with sand and dimpling the center of the ingot deeply with a punch to expand it into place a bit before I put the next ingot on top. I should mention that I measured the length of the roller so that the last ingot was cast to size for a perfect fit as the last one. Then I put the other cap on with CA glue too. I fabbed up the roller's arms by cutting and bending a few thin pieces of flat galvanized steel stock so that they could be slipped onto the wheel axle behind the wheel and then reach backward and attach to the roller in the center of the cap. I drilled the first arm hole to match the axle diameter tightly but with clearance to let it rotate and swing freely up and down to match the grass height. To attach the arms' other end to the roller, I just found the center of the circle by measuring and then drilled a hole down into the first 1 or 2 pucks. Then I used a coarse thread lag bolt (which I had drilled the arm hole to fit tightly for clearance but not much slop) to hold the arm in place. I laminated 3-4 of the thin steel stock together to form one arm. It was easier doing it that way to make the precise bends necessary. I laminated the arms with JB Weld. Then I put it all together, and it works absolutely fantastic! I see many others use sand or water as their ballast, but my mower is pretty small so that wouldn't be hardly any weight at all and the grass wouldn't be flattened much. The lead is dense as hell and the little 2.5" ABS is like, 50 pounds. It works great on our thick, beefy Bermuda grass that is kept short. Striping works much better on cool season lawn like fescue and rye that can be cut longer like 3-4" and is a delicate blade. The stripes are so satisfying to see with my nice and healthy dark green lawn. It's the best on the street but I put a lot of work into it to maintain that. It's truly a labor of love and de-stresses me. I like it. Most could not care less about the lawn. 😸😸😸 If you have OCD about neatness and symmetry then bold, straight, and sharp lawn stripes are heavenly to create and look at later.

Sneaky - I love it

Like they tag rehabilitated wild animals before they release them 😂

I’d love to have an easy going and knowledgeable fellow like Mustie as a neighbor!

New England !!!

Same here

@@billmcdonald2436 Non running generator $250. Running, full retail.

Same in Germany...

Definitely agree!!

Power band on a 2 cycle Yamahammer - especially a 175 - will take you by surprise if you're not ready for it!

Reminds me of my own 175 Suzuki. It was already an old bike when I bought it in 1973. Took me through college and more. Should'nt have sold it... 🙄

@@RRRIBEYE RD LC for life! Power band IS life! :D

People don't have much interest in fixing things. I shared this video to my Facebook wall. Will probably get one or two reactions.

I know of one homeowner, but I suspect there are others :)

Ever since I started watching Mustie1 I have tried to maintain my own equipment. I religiously empty my chainsaw of non ethanol fuel after each use.

So far it's helped me a lot!

The true indicator that there are a lot of viewers, will be when Mustie goes for a drive for miles and miles and finds no free stuff to pick up and fix.

Now get to work on the double cab and bring a carcass bus over to gut the parts and wiring for. The cab....and take the white mopar out too......sheeesh. tooooo many toys, mustie!!!

Another great mustie1 video. Your conversations are amusing and informative. All hail the mustie1.

Honda has a non-metal deck mower that's got a lifetime warranty (I think) which makes deck rot a thing of the past. Love mine.

I agree...same scenario in Michigan neighbor....I make a good bit of side money buying old mowers and getting them right for spring time sale

@@monkeybarmonkeyman Huh, didn't know they had gone to a plastic (or plastic like) deck on some models. Think they used to have either aluminum or maybe even magnesium decks several years ago. Looks like their lower end stuff is still steel though.

That's a northern thing. You never see any equipment on the side of the road in the southern US.

I wonder if spraying the underside of the deck with Rhino Liner to seal it would prevent the paint from being removed and prevent the bare metal from rusting. Almost like a coat of armor. I know that as an auto tech, I've seen hard undercoating fail after a while and then it traps water beneath it making the rust even worse. However, truck bed liner is extraordinarily tough shit because of what it's designed to see daily. It's designed to have gravel dumped on it, furniture slid in and out against it, etc. Once it gets a thin coating of grass pulp, it would smooth out the pebbly surface. I wonder if putting a layer of sprayed polyurethane over the Rhino Liner would help smooth it out and add even another layer of durable protection to it. Or maybe go the other way around... Cerakote or polyurethane the underside and then put Rhino Liner on top of that. 🤔 Maybe Rhino Liner and a thick application of sprayed Plasti-Dip on top of it? I'm not sure. I'm in AZ. Most of us have no idea what a grass lawn even is. It's startling to native born people when they travel. 🙀 "WHAT IS THAT GREEN STUFF TAKING OVER THE YARD?!?!" Lol 😸 Some people do have Bermuda or St. Augustine grass lawns here though. The deck washer works pretty good most of the time and then one can just prop the mower up tilted over on a few bricks or 2x4s to dry out in the sun. Laying it over on the side and using a jet garden hose, or better yet a pressure washer, easily blows all the fresh grass off to keep the deck clean. Of course we have no salted roads here so our cars never rust either! My last car was a 1984 diesel Mercedes that had no rust on the underside whatsoever. The paint was gone, the suspension rubber was rock hard and split apart, and the interior plastics were brittle as glass, but the metal itself looked mint. 💪😸

He's methodical, I reckon that is a big part of it- Does it spin Y/N? If no, start there. Does it have spark Y/N? If no, fix that. Is it getting fuel Y/N and so on, each issue handled in turn. Great practice, I reckon!

Mine would have had a short trip out to the country and a meeting with Mr 45-70

Ever meet him?

Years of working with them allows him to be observrnt. Knowing how things are supposed to work is key also.

Like Max says, logical flowchart troubleshooting is the key. Engines need fuel, air, compression, and ignition as the very basics. You need the right amount of fuel, delivered to the cylinder at the right time. You need the right amount of air, delivered to the cylinder at the right time, and the ability to easily expel the exhaust when the burning is complete. You need ignition occuring at the right time, with it powerful enough to actually cause the fuel:air charge to burn vigorously. Finally, you need the ability to compress that charge at the proper amount. Compression is usually easy to guess just by pulling the string or listening to the starter motor's rapid struggles to fight the compression stroke each time it happens. A 4 stroke will have resistance when pulled, and a small 2 stroke weed whacker or chainsaw or blower should be able to be lifted up and held by the string without falling down the entire length of it. A reasonable amount of compression will make it impossible to hold your thumb over the sparkplug hole the entire time while rotating the engine. If there's no compression, you find out why. It could be failed rings and scored cylinder, blown head gasket, burnt or pitted valve seats, excessive or insufficient valve lash, broken or worn or fallen rocker arms, bent or broken or worn pushrods, failed or worn lifter, broken or worn camshaft lobes, incorrect camshaft lobe clocking (plastic cam lobes can slip on their metal shaft and be out of time), incorrect cam gear teeth/degree alignment, stripped plastic cam gear teeth, or a faulty compression release system. Then IMO spark is the next easiest to verify. A lightbulb type spark tester is best for lawn mowers but if you can hold the plug and spin the engine quickly with each hand you can see the spark up close by just holding the plug body to a block or head surface to ground it. The spark has to be strong and consistent. If it's not present or it's weak, examine the ignition system. A weak spark at atmospheric pressure won't be able to ionize and jump the very dense air at all in a compressed fuel:air charge. Remove and inspect the sparkplug to make sure the center and ground electrodes are present, clean, and gapped correctly. Check the plug wire for degradation or breaks, check the stop mechanism to make sure the coil isn't being grounded by a bad stop switch or chaffed wires or a sloppy deadman's lever cable/linkage, check if there's a low oil cutoff safety switch that grounds the coil, check the ignition coil for shorts or opens, check the gap between coil and flywheel for proper distance and corrosion or rubbing damage, check the points and condenser for corrosion and gap and timing and good test values, you will find something eventually. If spark is good, fuel and air are next. After checking the compression and valve train, a dirty air filter or obstructed intake or stuck choke linkage or plate/faulty automatic choke mechanism or faulty governor that holds the throttle plate shut all the time are really it for air issues. For fuel, It's pretty simple with carbs. They are often just dirty internally at the jets or needle seat, full of water and corrosion and stale fuel, improperly adjusted, have sloppy linkages, have a dirty filter or filter screen, or they have a float that has developed a pinhole and is full of fuel which floods the engine or a stuck needle that doesn't fill the bowl. A massage in an ultrasonic cleaner's chemical bath should cure it, otherwise just replace the carb. Jets and passages can be cleared with pipe cleaners, thin wires, torch tip cleaners, or micro drill bits. If the compression is good, the timing and valve (and compression release) operation is correct, spark is present and strong, the carb is new or clean and properly adjusted/functioning, and the intake is not obstructed by a filthy air filter or nest or other things, spark timing and exhaust are left. A clogged exhaust due to fouled spark arrestor screens, fouled exhaust manifold/port, collapsed muffler, or animal nest is easily determined. Spark timing can be out of whack due to a squished or totally sheared flywheel key from hitting a hard object because that moves the magnet and retards timing several degrees away. The coil can be misadjusted too which would advance or retard ignition. If those 2 things are ok, consider the possibility that the key is a very hard replacement from an ignorant previous repair, and the crankshaft itself is twisted which has retarded the spark timing. That's a fatal failure due to financial reasons, usually. An offset key could potentially fix that, but make sure the crank isn't bent radially as well from that hard object hit. If it twisted the crank rotationally into plastic deformation, it may have bent it radially too. I think I covered most if not all possible causes of a simple outdoor equipment engine not running. If you check all of those things and it still doesn't run, consider calling up your local witch doctor and sprinkling a bit of your or your child's baptismal holy water on it. 🤷🏻‍♂️

The worst mower of all for jammed carb linkage and such has to be a Honda engine mower. Instead of studs to slip the carburetor over, you have to use bolts that traverse through all kinds of plates,and maybe 5 or six gaskets the carb,and even the fuel filter housing. Subsistute a stud for the 6mm bolt and it's way gooder. Don't know the length, but I suspect the horizontal Honda engines and clones have studs that will work. If you know which Mustie video dealt with a Honda engine, please link it

Coffee is mandatory when watching Mustie1 videos. :^)

I agree with you 100% it is great to see Crusty back on the road again.

What a great idea

eh

Mustie before you make a diagnosis on a "found" mower you should let your cat and dog look at them and do a "cat scan" and a few "lab Tests".

what kind of aluminium paint? you don't mean the roofing stuff do you? maybe a stupid question but sounds like a good idea and i'd like to try it.

@@blowupbob1 +1

I sanded (wire wheel) my deck down to bare metal about 7 years ago when it first started rusting - sprayed it with a nice thick coating of spray on flex-seal rubberized paint. 7 years later and it's still great - the only thing better might have been some actual bed-liner paint. Nothing sticks to it at all and i hose it off underneath every time I get it out to mow - might be another option for folks - I think it doubled the life of my mower (its almost 20 years now - Yardworks Model from Canadian Tire).

@@offshack Yes, I have bought the truck bed liner in a spray can from an auto store and did that. It works great! Nothing sticks to it.

@@blowupbob1 In the UK I have used a paint called 'Hammerite', originally available by mail order only. It seemed that the grass clippings didn't stick as much as with the original finish. There is a modern product with the same name but I cannot vouch for its performance.

In the Uk we call them cylinder mowers. I love them!

The cut is superior because a reel mower cuts the grass with a shearing action. Plus being on two wheels instead of four, it follows the contour of the ground better, so you get a more even cut.

@@notajp NoNo I know the difference haha. I love the cut when I use my manual one. Could you try to get a “reel mower” to restore on the channel 👍

I sure hope it wasn't a Russian tank, they don't seem to hold up very well.

@@cletusspucklerstablejeaniu1059 Those old TROY BILT machines were built to last forever. There are some in this aera that are still running from thr 60's.

B&S bought Snapper. MTD stands alone and makes most of the other brands, but not all.

@@DeWittPotts 1990 TroyBilt mower here. Bought new. Aluminum deck, B&S Quantum flathead. It's still a beast.

Depends on what it was designed to operate on..

You mean a reel type mower?

@@robertheinkel6225 British refer to them as cylinder north America says reel.

GO GET THAT BOBCAT

@@davidcoudriet8439 lol i stopped there to see if he had any musical instruments and it was just stuff he collected throughout the years. He had mobile 5w30 oil there at $4 a bottle. Mustie doesn’t pay anything close to that. It was a town wide garage sale.

@@paulmiller7276 grab the bobcat quick. It's special; worth it, even if you just flip it.

Agreed at $125 on marketplace I'd have it sold in two hours. That's a good mower and good price.

They are consider throw away mowers; they are so cheaply built that it’s not worth having someone to service it when it is more cost effective to just buy another one.

I have had to repair numerous small engines, due to alcohol. It deteriorates the fuel lines,until they just fall apart. I have worked on forty year old mowers, prior to the introduction of alcohol, and never saw a fuel line disintegrate once.

@@robertheinkel6225 The rubber today is garbage. That's what deteriorates lines. The E10 or E15 is fine as long as it's fresh. Let it sit and it will clog carbs solid.

He's mentioned before he keeps it in old tanks and his town will take everyone's old fuel once (Maybe twice) a year.

He should put a 2 cycle motor - like his Yamaha 175 - in that thing!! I also wish he would have put that Gold Wing engine in that mini truck he (miraculously!) got running!