It is a tedious process! If you can get used to the process though, the motors usually come out as good runners.

I hope that goes well for you!

Just keep an eye on those ball bearings if you decide to give this a try! The first time I pulled an old Rivarossi motor apart, the BBs fell out all over and I had to buy replacements.

@@DarthSantaFe this one is very simple and I didn't even see any ball bearings when I removed the armature. The commutater shines brightly but the copper windings look like burnt toast. I've not re-wound a motor before, but hopefully it will go well.

@@willausterman3104 I could be wrong about the bearings. Rivarossi mostly used ball bearings in the 50's but the C-LINER was also an experiment for them before they sold the tooling to Mehano, so maybe they were trying out regular sleeve bearings in that motor.

@@DarthSantaFe on the Rivarossi memory site it says there's bearings, but I think they're below the armature. So as long as I don't flip it over they should be ok

The winding was so much thinner on those and very easy to break or damage the coating. I had a similar experience, but the failures teach you what to look out for along the way to success, but only if you have the courage to keep going. If I'd stopped with that bad experience, I wouldn't be able to wind these types of motors.

Adding additional magnets will help in wide bodies like the F7 or PA since they’ll have room to fit. Remagnetizing did help of course, but the windings were actually the most significant upgrade here. I’ve heard one of the nicknames for these 50 years ago (when they were brand new and fully charged) was the “1-amp motor”.

Thanks! I've been running the motor in a project engine, and the difference in performance is amazing compared to what I used to see from it! I do design and engineering work at my job, but the skills are actually self-taught for the most part. A lot of it simply came from curiosity and trying new things.

@@DarthSantaFe that’s really awesome to hear! You are quite an inspiration to me in terms of completing projects, and finding ways to overcome challenges in parts and design in general. Can’t wait to see what’s next!

Both of those motors use 34AWG wire, so I’d try using 36AWG and making 120 turns per pole. This is only guessing since I haven’t tried changing the windings on those before, but I have been wanting to do a Mantua/Tyco motor eventually.

Need to comment that .05A at 12v freeload and 1.5A stall current are ver impressive marks!

@@regisbraga3833 If you have the time and patience, rewinding the old Jet motor will make it run just as well as a new Athearn gold motor. A Kato motor or Mabuchi 280 will be better running overall, and considering how easy it usually is to put a new motor in an Athearn chassis, the work to rewind these may not be worth it to most. There have been other cases where rewinding worked great because I didn't have to modify the chassis and gears (like for my Tenshodo 0-6-0T), so you could say it's a case-by-case sort of thing.

Thank you Darth for your considerations.

Nah, it'll be fine. A single winding barely carries any weight or torque, so the motor will operate normally if there are 108 on one pole and 110 on the next.

Thanks! I usually solder the wire and keep going, but either way works.

Either way you wish . Are you using the advance to next pole over the top drop down wrap or are you using the drop down the slot wind and drop back to the preceding pole method of winding . There are many ways to wrap the wire onto the armature for the performance you are seeking.

I tried this once before, and was able to loosen it by soaking in acetone and then chipping and cutting it away. The rewind afterward was difficult because of how tightly the windings are packed in. They used 32 gauge wire, and the epoxy is the only thing holding a lot of the wire in. Mine was unsuccessful in the end because of a shorted commutator, but I hope you’re able to get yours finished!

@@DarthSantaFe how did you figure out the commutator was shorted out?

@@rosadoco I thought it was my new windings shorting somewhere, so I took them back out, but then I decided to check the commutator and was getting a direct short circuit between two or three plates. I tried cleaning it out, but couldn’t get it fixed in the end.

Thanks for the tip! My own plans for my printing designs outside of my full time job are going to keep me occupied though, so I don't think I'll be much use to them. I'm sure they'll find someone good though!

The paper was there to make it easier to wind without possible short circuits. It’s not needed as long as you wind it carefully, or you can replace it with a little paper masking tape.

@@DarthSantaFe Thanks!

The reason for the 34AWG wire and number of turns used was to increase the motor's torque and efficiency while reducing the maximum speed. The original windings were 32AWG with fewer turns, so the motor ran at a high speed while drawing high amperage at a similar or slightly lower torque. The winding method used was to match the original method. I've tried using windings that are directed the other way before (like the Athearn gold motor armatures), but I found that this changed the position of the electromagnetic field and nearly locked the armature in place. This is because the windings powered by the brushes were being put in line with the field of the permanent magnets, so they were simply attracted directly to the magnets and no longer trying to rotate the armature.

@@DarthSantaFe Yes Sir , I'm aware of this... However there are ways to get what you want performance Wize without all that silly wire and all the complications that come with doing it that way . As an example , using various wire sizes when rewinding the armature . You can start out winding with a thicker wire ga. Size when beginning to wind the motor . Say you start with a 28 ga. Size. At this time you completely rewind the motor with 28 ga. With only just a few wraps around each pole . Then you start over, and using a very thin wire size as you did , you complely rewind the motor a second time using the thin wire for motor torque, until you have wrapped the wire as you prefer until complete ... This way you have motor speed and torque . Experimentation will result in you finding the combination of speed and power you desire. Another way of course is to start with a thick wire for a few wraps on each pole . So you start with the 28 ga size and you wrap the first pole with say 20 wraps. At this time you get your 34 ga wire and soldier the two wires together , finishing the rewind of the pole when you are satisfied and context to the Comm. You do this same process to each pole on the armature and finish . You can advance or retard the timing to reach the performance you seek. Balance the armaturevanshim the mags with foil , bring them closer to armature for more torque etc. Now epoxy the wire so as to not throw the rewind allow to completely dry. Recheck balance and when ready reassemble and time to see what has happed performance Wize to the motor. Experimentation and record keeping data are essential and soon due to this , you can predict outcomes and then rewind at will without of unnecessary experimentation. Plus there is alot more that can be done to enhance performance. Good luck . Ask if you need advise.