Hello, @1:10:00 i repair roundhouses that have that gear, i discovered that no one super glues the little black turning gear on the metal rod that turns the wheels. thats why ive bought many roundhouses on ebay and every single one di not have the little black gear super glued to the metal rod for the wheels.

Menards Track is super strong

I had one of these, it felt sounded like a blender and operated like it was made of wet sand.

It must have been somewhat of an adventure to construct, and I have to admit this is the first time I'm hearing of the company DJH Model Loco. I only know the full name after looking them up due to seeing this video and to think they been around for 47 years being established in 1977. Your assessment and description of the build were on the money, and I think the skill level warning was most needed. Great video, Jersey Bill

Märklin H0 locomotives will run happily on DC. But good luck changing direction by changing polarity. These motors are 'allstrom motors'. Changing direction invovles switching between the 'anchor' coils. These are wound in opposite directions. The switching relay changes direction by connection the 'opposite' coil. Converting to 2 rail involves isolation one wheelset from the other. Old Märklin locomotives are built like tanks. If you oil and maintain them properly, they can last almost forever. Modern Märklin locos are more fragile, but still really good. Really good job with the conversion!

Darth, I really love how you put this kit together. It looks great and your replacement parts work well. I hope you will show us the results off your lighting of the headlight and the tender light. Maybe even a cab light. Your choice of motor was right on and I thought it ran quite well.

that pacific is beautiful

Good job (especially with the paint)! In terms of British kits, I’m looking forward to your build of the London Road Models one, and I highly recommend the Brassmasters/Finney LNER A1/A3 kit, as it is regarded as the best in detail and construction, and it is also extremely easy to modify it to have working inside motion. I’d recommend using CSB or Varney type suspension, a gearbox that can be routed to go through the firebox to keep it from sight, and to use the high quality and very fine Ultrascale wheels and crankpins to go with the kit. Brassmasters/Finney kits along with Dave Bradwell kits are really seen as the crème de la crème of kits there.

This guy is legendsry with videos for all times...wow

Excellent, thanks for that.

Nice work on the build, what model of coreless motor is that and where can I get it?

Did you film the build process for this one? Would've been neat to see how this shapes up against a brass loco of similar vintage.

Runs nice.

Great work! A question does it come with sprung drivers?

Very cool

Wow I’ve never seen these before! What other American models have they made? Curious about a light mikado :>

This is a model I would love to own given I collect ACL equipment and have a love for the real #1504. I have three BLI P-5-A 4-6-2s #1519, #1523, and #1540. I wish BLI would do #1504.

very interesting review on an obscure product! This is a rather impressive paint job, it turned out great! The DJH pacific certainly did fill in a niche in the market at the time. Although I think Oriental Limited's powerhouse USRA 4-6-2 woulda been a pretty good competitor for the time, also being cheaper than brass, a hybrid of diecast and brass construction, very similar to this model. But having more separate brass detail parts added and RTR. Im not sure how the price would have compared to this, but it was intended to be marketed as "cheaper than brass but with all the brass levels of detail"

I find it very odd that whoever produced the shell gave it the road number of 70 as all the DDA40X's were in the 69XX range.

These old models HAD to be noisy. It was the sound system of the era.

I would never have scrubbed the body shell with a toothbrush. You run the risk of damaging the paint. I normally use a soft 1“ paintbrush for that kind of work. If oily, I would add 1-2 drops of mild dishwashing liquid to a bucket of water. Rinse the model well after washing.

Have you ever installed a DCC decoder in any of your HOB models ?

Remarkable, Mindblowing only because you might have great sight.......Thanks.

I ran into one of your other videos .... Subscribed!!! 👍

I'm DC only .... I think it's AWESOME!!!!!

I think, I saw some on eBay already Assembluild for those who don't have the time, know-how or patience.

I believe your videos are spot on and most informative, It's a pleasure to have watched this video. Thank You!

Did atsf gp 9 ever run in red warbonnet,? You wont see this in new products, ,buyers have become smart to be caught like this gimmick, again. Could it be regarded as fraud?

FORGET IT! through in a Marx.

I just got a pre-built blue box GP9, but when it came the long hood-side railing above the coupler was bent inwards as a unit. How to fix?

Can I get this in india?

I have one of these. It pulls six passenger cars very good on a level track 😮❤

early late early 1960 BE SPECIFIC

Io Good job 🎉

I have one of those 2-6-0 kits in the box! Havn't started it yet. Maybe your video will inspire me. I wonder if you have had experience with The Locomotive Company kits?

A brass model train is about as logical as a golden boat anchor 😂 Some people just don’t like money well spent.

"Like" number 2-8-4... John

Fun kit and fun to watch you build it! I really wish you would've de-flanged the middle drivers tho, many prototypes did that bc having the rear drivers flangless throws off the geometry between the engine and tender in the curves. Your solution works tho, and it looks great 👍

I enjjoyed the step by step assembly of this kit and some of the modifications that you did. When you got to the point of having the engine pull some cars, I was struck by the lettering on the New Haven gondola. Was that a factory made car? I would think that the N should be over the H. Was that done on both sides of the car?

Those Atlas locos are almost top of the range & are supposed to run smoothly & quietly. There has to be something wrong with it to make that noise. Sometimes, the drive shafts are a fraction too long, can make that noise as it appears the trucks run smooth & quiet before they were put on the chassis. They are nice locos.

This is a very nice kit, and relatively easy to build if you take your time to to ensure proper fit. I've built 2 of them, one with the motorizing kit. I look forward to seeing how yours turns out.

This is great! I've got the exact same kit and was wondering how I should go about doing a conversion.

I built one of those back in 1969. Bought the model at Woolco for $9.99 during their yearly train blow out sale. Nice work!

Three rail is O gauge. Two rail is O scale.

Good Job. 👍🏼

I'm an O Gauge collector and runner, just found your channel. Very cool kit, first one I have seen. Lionel Berkshires have the 2nd and 3rd driver wheel flanges removed. Excellent job!

You need some 2 rail track

In the 1970s, my family had that same box which contained an HO scale train set. It was the same size and the graphics on the front and sides were the same. The wording on the front described the contents, which were packaged in the standard AHM "True to blueprint" window boxes along with track and a power pack.

Could've left the old decals on to make it look like it was used right up into 1952 when the 0-8-0's were retired

Loved the vedio! I have the “Casey Jones” that AHM produced about the same time as this one. I always thought they should have produced models of the “General” as well as the “Jupiter” and the “119”. Someone did produce a 1/25 th scale model of I believe the “General”, that was a nice kit. I’m going to have fun with the “Casey Jones” as some of the smaller detail parts have gone the way of un assembled kits. It’s too bad The only difference inthe 2 kits was the 0-8-0 kit came with metal wheelsets whereas the “Casey Jones” had plastic wheelsets and were to be replaced with sets included in the “power” upgrade kit, I think there were other parts in the power kit that replaced plastic counterparts in the original kit. The real irony was to make the “Casey Jones” an operating model, the power kit had to be added as the kit was assembled. So if you built the kit as a static model, you couldn’t upgrade it.