Thank you for adding this... This video was painful too watch

I have a clam steamer I'm restoring.....what lubricant is food safe? Or does it even matter....washes off?

@@nasa297 if you use wet&dry paper just use water. I’d then just use dishwashing liquid to remove any residue. Rinse well. Job done.

Hey! Finally someone who is willing to explain this process. I really want to learn how to sand scratch free. I have a lot of trouble knowing when i'm done with a grit and when it's time to move on to the next one. I can't find any videos on it, and any youtubers i've asked just won't answer. So could YOU maybe explain it to me in the dumbest way possible? :) Pretty please, with a cherry on top :D

@@chey7TH Firstly I’m no expert but I’ve done my fair share… like most things it takes a little practice and experience to know when to move to the next grit. There’s no magic formula. However with metal the shine increases and look very closely, you shouldn’t be able to see any scratches that stand out from the preceding grit. (Yes I know, that’s kinda obvious : ) You’re looking closely for a super even finish. Though sometimes I admit any wayward scratches can be hard to see until you move up a further grit, at which point scratches from two grits back become very easy to see. If that happens you know you moved on too early with the last grit. This is the “learning how to do it wrong” method, so you learn how to do it right. Also called experience. : ). A little trial and error and experience will give you a feel for it. The good news is you can’t overdo it , unless you’re in danger of going through a thin coating. So I always work the grit a little more than I think is necessary before moving to the next one. My view is if you rush it you’ll be going two steps back to fix it which will take more time than if you don’t rush it in the first place. I step up in doubles. Choose an appropriate grit to start with, depending on the surface. Eg if it’s dull stainless with a few scratches, start at perhaps 120 - 240 - 400 - 800 - 1500 - 2000. Then a metal polish. If it’s a softer metal you can afford to jump up in bigger increments, particularly in the beginning with coarser grits. And one more tip. Wet and dry is relatively cheap compared to the effort required. Swap it out fairly frequently to speed the process - if you use a piece for 5 minutes it will have done 75% of the work in the first minute or two. Though don’t change it too often. The slurry that builds up under the paper also has a “polishing” effect helping to produce an even cut as you go. Happy scratching!

Thank you very much Marty

Thank you! I appreciate it

Thank you very much Zack, I'm glad you liked it

You're very welcome Chip, I'm happy to help.

Ollie B i thought 1200 was the finest lol

I read some places they say just to go to 1500. I got an assortment up to 7000 and am happy to see I was already doing what he was. I figured 1500 is nice but 7000 must be better.

Thank you very much, and Merry Christmas!

@@SkillsandTrade hey yeh! Merry Christmas to you, too!

A Thermos bottle insulates using a vacuum between double walls. The finish of the stainless steel or aluminum has little to nothing to do with heat retention.

I might have to do a comparison video someday so we will know which polish is best

Gords aluminum polish is a very good polish and can be used on many other metals such as stainless steel

Steven Santos id usually use wd40 I use hat to make knives.

I'm not sure, I wouldn't think so.

Torino the point of start from the lowest #is the heavier #grit will flat out the scratches then from there smootherout with the higher #grit sand am a car detailer i buff and wax cars so l know something about this

You should be able to sand it with the steps in the video. You might be able to get away with a stainless steel polish without sanding, but for your best results I'd sand with a higher grit first. Best of luck on your stove

Skills and Trade Stainless steel polish didn’t work. I’ll try sanding...thanks!

​@@Joshow313 I'd love to know what ended up working for you. The interior of my microwave is a shiny stainless and it was cleaned with a cleaner called The Pink Stuff left a haze that does not remove with any regular solutions.🤷‍♀️

@@AA-em9wv We were never able to fix it and have since moved out of the apt. My partner learned a very good lesson. I hope you find a solution!

Yes, you sure can. Best of luck

Your oil will probably work, I just prefer alumicut personally

Lol with the 4 months U been waiting for a response you coulda done this urself

Around 20 minutes

*for simply small flat surfaces. Took 2 hour for complicate

Let us know how it goes. I have a stainless steel vacuum cup like a Yeti that I got for sparkling water. Unfortunately the finish of the stainless steel interior of the cup is not smooth enough and has many nucleation sites so the water becomes flat quickly, compared to glass. I am thinking of hand polishing the inside to a mirror finish. It would be hard to get a suitable power tool inside the cup, so this video makes me think to give it a try.

Depends how deep your scratches are. If there not bad then not much but if bad you gotta even everything out.

It'll take forever.

You can get a very shiny and pretty mirror finish just by sand paper alone, the polish just makes it more so.

Thanks!

Joe Frost you can try using wd40 and stick with a single direction. Also try to use your thumbs. That’s what I use.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fb1-gLqjvdmnp30.html

Yeah that would probably work

I'm not sure if I have your approval or disapproval with this comment, but I hope you have a great day.