interesting

I don't know if you have yet, but as someone in the middle of one of those fuckups, yep, that's exactly how it goes! IF everything is not super dirty, there's no rust or damage, it'd be so easy, a 3 hour task for a beginner like me to do both wheels. And yet, it's day 3 of my bike restoration project, 8 hours down the hole and more in research

Thank you. Your comment helped so much more than you could imagine, I didn't even realize yet that there was a hollow versus solid

Cone nut wrenches at bike stores are ridiculously priced. I have lots of inexpensive wrenches made in China that will fit the cone nut but are not the thickness of a cone nut wrench. I used a grinder to grind one down to the same thickness as a cone wrench.

Just ordered box of tools for $50 on ebay, will see how it goes. Just think something like this can happen on a trail, say hitting a rock. $100 for a new wheel will not be a lot if you can fix it then

@@jeffhayes2288 Usually, 2 cone wrenches are needed. You can use a regular open end wrench (of the correct jaw size) that is ground down for the outer jam nut, but from my experience, a thin one specifically designed for this job is needed for the inner cone nut.

Learning about this process now. Could you tell more about the need for a third wrench and how it's used?

@@slowroadsouth This video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mM2KmJyimN7ZlKs.html goes into great detail about this one particular step. Putting the wheel in a vice when tightening, ensuring that the axel doesn't move, makes it much easier to make the precise adjustments needed and get the best possible fit, rather than just good enough.

third wrench is interchangeable with a Vise, or tightening only one attatching nut on the bike frame itself( but Not for QR axle!). I could explain it, but if the concept is new, it is better you experience it, you will learn more deeply that way. In Brief, in most modern hubs foudn in usa with loose balls, : 1. the cone nut and lock nut need to be sufficeintly tightened against each other 2. The tightness between above pair should be roughly the same on left and right side.3.The space or distance from Cone nut to cone nut that is ideal AFTER locking in sufficiently and balancedly(1 and 2) is a precise distance, this ideal distance should be coveted as it is important for the Efficiency and durability of the whole assembluy and the rolling of the wheel and transfer of forces from the road to the rider's legs( via tire,rim,nipple/spoke,hub/ BALLS / conenut,locknut,frame-fork,bottombracket,crank,pedal,legs!!!!) This is the Brief version in my way!

@@slowroadsouth Without a vise, you have one wrench(preferably fixed, usually a 17mm though not always) holding the locknut of an Already locked in side, this acts as a n 'anchor' or is the same thing as the vise in most official methods. The other sie of th eaxle , you use a cone wrench on the cone(adjustment) nut, and another Fixed wrench for unlocking, and re locking the final locknut. Often you have to do this a few times before you get a very precise adjustment locked in! Using 3 wrenches w two hands can be learned, pay attention to angles of the wrenches, and between wrenches( and dont be afraid to flip them around to get best leverage. It can help to have towels or gloves in the case of of non padded handles on wrenches, though not necesscary. Once you understand the task at hand, all the above will be learned naturally. It is the most logical way to do the task with the least elaboraTE setup. the OLD Fashioned way is to do it with the wheel installed in the bike. Those OLD bikes had either one or zero locknuts, the ATTATCHMENT TO the frAME acted to lock the adjustment in. Remember the modern bike came about due to innovation in BEARING BALL manufacturing. From that followed the car, plane.... The adjustability pressure on the balls was of PARAMOUNT importance to bike mechanics, that is why 99% of bikes IN THE WORLD today have adjustable bearing balls in all major load bearing joints!

@@ajkauly3682 I appreciate all the info!!!!! I'm learning to service my bearings and you totally demystified the cone tightening for me, I understand now why the LBS mechanics left a lil play and then told me to clap down on the QR till it's slightly tight.

Your username is RepairDrive and your profile picture is a gear cassette

that would make it a bit more easy bcs you can see somethings better but it isnt really necessary

Watch out for any oil residue on the disc, might affect breaking performance

Because it can be easily damaged. This is how shimano says you should do it.

Yes i do. On the 17th of May it started raining and about 15:45 your bike let in some water. As you hadn't used it for very long it started to rust. That is exactly what went wrong!

Buy a new hub. This will entail relacing and retruing the wheel. If you want to reuse your spokes and rim with the new hub, make sure the new hub has the same pitch circle diameter (distance from center of hub spoke hole to opposite hub spoke hole on the same flange side) as your old hub. If it is not the same pitch circle diameter, then you need new spokes that are either longer or shorter that is appropriate for your rim/hub combination (there are online spoke length calculators to help you).

Or just get a new freehub body.

Side-to-side play involves those double race/ two flats for skinny wrench. Cone wrenches necessary ? O try & approx. tightening or looseing w a regular thick spanner. Bearings clean and replace patiently

WD-40 is a degreaser. More accurately, it's a solvent that will break down oils and grease, although there are different products that carry the "WD-40" name, so be sure to check the label.

Both my hubs on my Trek FX2 have gone just after the two year warranty 😖 hurts my wallet 🤦‍♂️

cost would increase, like the price inflation with “entry level” disc brakes bikes now 💸

Agree. I have a well used Cannondale mountain bike from 1999 that has never needed its cartridge bearings replaced. My road bike with cone nuts and open ball bearings needed a rear hub service after 4 years of much less severe use.

My cup and cone bearings lasted at least 18 years

It's because of cost and simplicity.

William McNear It may or may not be necessary, depending on how bad things got before you did the service. You'll inspect them for wear once you've taken everything apart, but you can usually tell long before if the bearings have gone. You might hear grinding coming from the hub when spinning the wheel, or there may be side-to-side play.

BikeRadar how big are the bearings

As far as I know it's not actually necessary, but will prevent any noise originating from it. I've seen it recommended in noise removal videos.

Can u mix them .? What is wrong with that . I think they are of the same size ?

@@jagjosh2039 (I just learned) they tend to wear differently

Why not just replace the bearings at this point. I get trying to make it accessible for people, but cmon. If you are going to the trouble of servicing your bearings just replace them!

@@chrisshaw380 I miss your point. Rarely do the bearings need replacement on properly serviced hubs. What are you saying? I think I misunderstand you.

If you are talking about them wearing differently, thats propably in sub-thou dimensions. Absolute nonissue

thechosendude More grease the better in a hub... unless you're a track cyclist. Some will remove the grease and replace with chain lube to aid rolling resistance. But we wouldn't recommend that outside.

Nick Fox If you get grease on a braking surface, it's important to clean it off with a degreaser ASAP. Won't cause any real harm to other components but will attract dirt, so we'd advise you clean any excess.

+Nick Fox With a proper clean-up, you'd never know the difference.

SmellyT0fu Thanks for your feedback, but we don't use a B-cam for the visual interest or cuteness - although we do always shoot JT from his best side - so much as the flexibility that it allows during editing.

Get over it grandpa