Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm so glad our videos have been helpful and not pretentious! LOL

Thank you so much for watching and for your feedback!

Our pleasure! Good luck on your project!

Sewing Parts Online .plees i wont by presar feet.i am leeve in syprus..how can i by

Hi, Madu! Unfortunately, we do not currently ship to that region.

I agree that the music is distracting. the info is great though! thank you

Thank you for your kind words!

Sewing Parts Online Thank you!!! I have Subscribed to your Beginner Sewing Series. I am learning so much from this as well as that I need to practice and have patience with my mistakes.

Glad you enjoyed!

Some of us are hearing impaired...maybe it's the pitch of the music...the noise of the machine with a tutorial going on...I watched it once then had to listen to it 2 more times.

Thank you so much for watching!

Thank you for watching and good luck with your scarves!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!

You are very welcome!

Why would you want to serge seams on a fabric that does not unravel?

@@camouflagejumpsuit The fabric I have is sherpa and it sheds along the cut edges. I just watched another KZfaq video that indicates serging the edges beforehand cuts down on that shedding. I just tested it out on a sample piece of sherpa fabric and it works great.

@@TaDarling1 ohhh so what's the difference between sherpa and fleece

@@camouflagejumpsuit I'm not an expert on either so your best bet is to google it for accuracy.

I'd love an answer to that - plus a closeup of the walking foot. Did you get an answer?

She says in the video: ballpoint or sharp :-)

Bij Ward Hi! That does sound like a difficult project. This is an instance where you have to hand baste before sewing on your machine. I also recommend making sure the fit it to your liking before putting in your permanent stitches. Good luck and be sure to share a pic of it on our Facebook page. It sounds like an awesome project!

Hi! I would definitely hand baste, since pins will be a pain. And your coverstitch machine would be perfect! Any very light-weight stabilizer will work nicely, like a polymesh cut-away (goo.gl/DgZEks). It will keep the cuffs from stretching out, as well as keeping the hem neat.

Thank you for replying and your helpful hints.

Thank you! We don't have one that covers your exact request; however, we do have a video on the automatic buttonhole foot that may be helpful for you. www.sewingpartsonline.com/blog/how-to-use-an-automatic-buttonhole-foot/ Good luck!

Use a stretch stitch on a seam you need to have some give. For instance, if I were making a fleece sweater, I would use a stretch stitch or a zig zag stitch on the armholes.

You're very welcome!

Hi! You can do it! I would fold the hem under once and finish with a twin needle. The underside will be a zig-zag stitch and thus able to a bit of ease.

Hi, fellow Pisces! I use a fair bit of tricks to keep my stitches straight - and even then I still produce some wonky stitches every now and again. Keep on sewing!

Haha... Thanks for the encouragement, I just started sewing (literally, I got my machine about 3 days ago, lol), and I was so excited to try to make my first (useful) thing from *scratch* (I've been taking old coats/sweatshirts and "amending" them to make them fit my tall, skinny, senior doggie I recently inherited, poor sweetheart is super skinny and always freezing unless I keep her in a little jacket... So I've been delighted to be able to try different fabrics and ideas etc, and have a bunch more cute things to keep my girlie warm!)... But anyways, I was super stoked to have made a pattern and cut out all the pieces and went to the machine to sew the fleece, and got to the point where I was honestly questioning if it was possible to sew fleece with a regular machine, and was VERY BUMMED! I got LOTS of practice at threading the bobbin, though, haha, so that's a plus, and I figured there must be something about fleece that makes it more challenging (I realized that pretty quickly into it, but I was amazed I had so much trouble even getting it to stich correctly on a single piece of test fabric... So I might come back to that project after a bit more practice with other fabric, but I really felt like such an idiot last night haha... Still kinda feeling that way, and feeling intimated by the machine, but I've wanted to learn how to sew all my life, and I've finally got a machine that works, and thank God for all the free info out there on the web, this is the first video I've looked up for info about sewing fleece, and it was very helpful, thank you so so soooo much! I already have figured out several things to do differently (which is a good thing, I get so much more frustrated when I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong, so having a list of things to do differently is actually wonderful!) so I'm feeling more confident already, and I keep telling myself that even when I'm makeing mistakes, I'm learning, and the first part of learning anything I know is gonna be rough, so be proud of your straight stitches, and to the OP, be proud of your not-so-straight stitches... I couldn't even manage to get ANY decent stitches to hold last night haha... It kept getting goofed in lots of ways, so the bottom thread wouldn't actually meet the top thread stitches, so I just put my finger on the thread and it came right up (mainly... There were lots of other ways I goofed, too, lol) So THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS INFO, AND FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT! (and I know I'm nuts to skip over the "pillowcases" stage of learning... I figure I've got a ton of pillowcases, so there's other things to learn, that all involve sewing in a hypothetically straight line haha... But I might wait till I've got a bit more experience under my belt before attempting fleece again...though I know it's gonna keep bugging me until I figure it out, haha, so I might not be able to keep myself away much longer than a few hours hehe... Hopefully I can figure it out decently ... I know SOMEDAY I'll manage it, and I remember how much I wanted to go ice skating as a kid, and I begged my mom to take me for a couple years before being the chance, so I didn't want to waste time afraid of falling, since i figured, there's nothing different between myself and a pro skater but years of experience, so it wasn't like physics applied differently to the people who walked right up and got to skating vs the people who were scared and clinging to the wall... So I fell on my butt several times, as I expected, haha, but I also managed to stand up and skate around, quite clumsily, and timid, but there were moments when I would glide and feel like I had some clue of what I was doing... And then I would fall on my butt and laugh and get back up and have to fight the thoughts of fear of failure again, but I was proud of my experience and of not letting myself cling to the wall after the first couple minutes. I'm trying to think of this similarly... There's nothing magical about getting straight lines, or even not-so-straight lines... I would have been thrilled to make ANY lines last night haha... It's mostly just practice and learning how to handle different fabrics and use the machine and tools correctly. (wish me luck, hehe!)

Linda M agreed

queenopearls Yup, you can definitely use a narrow zig zag

The zig zag will accommodate the natural give without breaking. Give it a try :)

I would try a heavy duty needle, and a walking foot.

Yes please answer this one!

Thanks for the suggestion! We love hearing great ideas!

It may be that you need a walking foot, and a different needle. Try a heavier thread too.

You can purchase the stabilizer by clicking on the link below: www.sewingpartsonline.com/fuse-and-fleece-cut-away-10x15yds.aspx

Stabilizer is not a spray on product. It's just something that prevents the fabric from stretching too much. For larger parts, there is sew in stabilizer and iron on. If it's just a neck or shoulder seam, you can even get away with a thin ribbon.

They use Tyvec for this, it lets the water vapor pass through, but not much else. You can get it at your big box building supplies store.

@@dumbstupidfalk thanks

The stitch length and tension definitely help; however, another big helper is a straight stitch plate. The narrow opening eliminates the fabric getting pulled into the machine. Just note, not all machines have a straight stitch plate available. Also, when using a SS Plate, you can only do a straight stitch - no zigzag.

Good question.. But no answer 🤔

I literally came to this video to find just this answer but no help.

Sarah recommended starting out using a tension of 4, a stitch length of 3 or 3.5, and either a microtex or ballpoint needle. Practice on a scrap of fleece fabric until you achieve the desired results.

Most rediculous video ever

release the pressure on the pressure foot.

Zig zag

At timestamp 2:00, Sara mentions to use a ballpoint needle, as well as increasing your stitch length and decreasing your tension. It's tough to give exact settings as machines are different; however, good starting points are Size 14 Ballpoint Needle and 3mm stitch length. As for the tension, whatever you normally use, decrease it in small increments and test on scraps before moving to your actual project. I hope that this helps.

Look into ways to close a stuffed animal. It's very similar.

I recommend starting my stitch length around 3.0mm and decrease my tension; however, I also recommend sewing on scrap fabric and continue to adjust your tension until your stitch looks great. Each machine is different so those settings are just a starting point.

There are no silly questions. Stabilizer keeps the layers from shifting and makes it stable (non-moving) it's not meant to wash away. Someone e asked can tear it away but your seam will no longer be stable and will wobble and look odd. If you ever sewed crepe de chine ( sorry for spelling) or velvet or Jersey you will notice it will shift. When you sew fleece with out a stabilizer it shifts. I hope this helps.

Hi, Carol. I am very sorry for your frustration. Sadly, I do not have a video on your specific request. I have not personally done a buttonhole on 2 layers of fleece; however, if you are having issues, I suggest hand basting around the fabric before attempting to do your buttonhole. Fleece has a tendency to move on you. Depending on the thickness of the fleece, change out your needle. If it's light fleece, you can use a size 12. If it's thick, try a 16. Also, to avoid puckering and a wave due to the thickness of the fabric, increase your stitch length and stitch width. Lightweight fusible interfacing will also be helpful to prevent this. As for the bobbin thread issue, try removing your plate, cleaning out your bobbin area well and then also rethreading your machine. That can make all the difference. If that doesn't fix the issue, you may have to bring it to a local technician. I hope that this helps.