You are a very kind individual and that was awesome of you to be so understanding and helpful.

Thanks and thank you so much for watching.

Thanks Im glad it helped and thank you for watching.

Thank you and thanks for watching.

My dad's the one that got me into using screws before that I always use nails but the nice thing with screws is if you make a mistake it comes apart easily and I totally agree that torques heads are the best

For real tho, you sound exactly like louie CK

Thanks glad to hear it

Thanks

That's awesome to hear

Thanks I appreciate it. I was getting a lot of hateful comments on that video so I shut off the comments on it.

Awesome I hope it goes smooth and quickly for you. I know doing an entire building by yourself can be a task.

Thanks and thank you for watching.

Lol

Thanks and thank you for watching. 😀 I appreciate the compliment. I would love to do podcasts or commercials and such but no idea what to do with them or what to talk about.

Yw

Thanks for watching :)

I would stick with the 82 High because it is always better to have too much space than not enough the extra space can always be shimmed.

I always thought it was an interesting little fact. I always did it just to have nails handy. As for your house. That is awesome though be 12 on center. It must be a very strong old house. I do sympathize with you on the true 2x4 though as like you said it makes it a real pain. As if you need to add studs you have to shim them. Still though Im jelous I would love to own an older historical home as the craftsman ship in those buildings is amazing.

Bevins Builds they also used square nails and very wide boards this house was part of the settlers in Michigan being proof of staying on the land for 3 years to own it the wood is actually off the land it self. They just laid the sill on a layer of rocks. And they added 2 layers of bricks in between each stud I am assuming for draft or a rat wall. The corners are actually post and pegged. And as I remodel the outside I’m loosing the popular siding so I can insulate the walls I’d love to keep it but the time to repaint and maintenance involved. Insulation I’m sticking with a baton style Incase I ever do the inner walls. I remodeled the bathroom as that was also my issue of getting somethings to plumb and running new supply and drain lines given this house was the first to have info plumbing and electric and telephone in the area. And from what I was told was a waystop for stage coaches between Ann Arbor and Plymouth. The 2 front rooms had French doors that open all the way around to the walls so they could hold dances. It did have a lot of gas plumbing for lighting too. So yeah new construction is way easier then this old house

Yeah I can understand why its all a nightmare for you and agree I would rather have vinyl siding so you dont have the yearly painting issues. Your actually close to my area then with where you live. I commute from tecumseh to romulus daily for work.

I had never heared that one before, thanks

I use 2 1/2 inch screws with a t25 star drive :)

To be perfectly honest I don't have a lot of experience with metal studs. I will say this though being they are aluminum I would not screw the door frame directly to the stud. If I am not mistaken there are special support that you need to purchase for mounting door frames to the aluminum studs.

Thanks and thank you for watching. As for making an exterior door strong, the biggest thing is to make sure you use a solid core door and to make it real strong use a steel door. But also get a combo unit with a dead bolt.

Bevins Builds thank you

Yes they do apply for both situations.

I personally have never seen a door framed without this type of header or thicker meaning 2x6, 2x8 or more but that method is reserved for load bearing walls. Anytime you have a window or door installed the proper framing calls for a minimum of a 2x4 header as well as the king and jack studs. The purpose of this is to keep the header from twisting and warping and causing issues with the door frame. Im sure you can get away with just doing a 2x4 but I was taught to make all headers in this fashion. As for your situation with a prehung door, no there isnt any other special framing that would be required. Except what I already show. 😀 hope this helps.

Yes that is correct

Your welcome thanks for watching.

The 2 inches is to accommodate both the extra needed space for the door frame and flooring you may put down. To be safe I would still recommend 1.5 in extra on top.

No it can be placed any distance. At a minimum though I would make it at least 4 inches plus from a corner so you have space for trim.

Ok Ive thought this myself and you dont need a ton of space but this is the amount of space someone expects to see when installing a prehung door. Me personally I only add 1.5 inches to my opening. As its always better to have a little slop for adjustment and for the expanding and contracting of the lumber thru the seasons than it is to rough it to small and regret it later. :)

Yeah I will be the first to admit my terminology is lacking. But I dont do this type of work everyday. So I forget a lot of the terms.

To me when I rough frame I always only add 2 inches to all diameters but it is common for 2.5 inches of slop. As most rough in holes are not square and level. But when I am doing my own framing my openings are all plum and square. To answer your specific question though no do not add anything. They are just suggesting the rough opening size for the 36 inch door. The 2.5 inches is already added to that demension.

Not really sure what you mean about jam depth. The thickness of the wall is a constant with either a two-by-four or a 2 x 6 framed wall.

If it is a bearing wall yes. But as long as you replace it with a proper header there are no issues.

Yes and no, it would still be the same construction but when doing it for load-bearing I prefer to use 2 by 6 on the header for a standard opening (36" door) and 2x8 for wider doors and use an extra king stud. It's also important to note that the cripple studs that go above the door frame must maintain 16 in on Center where on a non load-bearing wall it's not important in the aspect of support it's only for giving you spots to land the drywall.

@@BevinsBuilds Thank you for explaining 👍🏼

Yes it would have but for the sake of explanation and filming I did it the hard way.

Well if its an exsisting wall when you knock the hole in the wall you should have the plate there, you just want to cut it to the size of your intended door opening is all. But yes all door openings should have a bottun plate. Being its not a load bearing wall I wouldnt worry to much if there is no plate to use though. The purpose of the plate is for load distribution.

Thinking about doing this as well.

Yes and 82 for height.

Its npt required to be, If I have space I screw them in on the end thru the king stud. If not then I screw them in diagonally, of I understand your question correctly.

You got to catch it on sale and when I bought my insulation I got 40% off for buying 36 or more rolls

@@BevinsBuilds heyyyy lol exactly!! It wound up being cheaper still just because I was already there and didn’t have to leave my full truck and trailer unattended in Lowe’s parking lot 😂. Glad I seen this comment, I forgot to attach the receipt to the form and fill it out for the mail in rebate

Because people are going to be hanging weights on them. 🙄🙄🙄

That's a very good question and I'm sorry but the only way I truly know to answer that is that you need to remove some drywall to add studs in it but keep in mind you should only remove the drywall from one side. So if the doorway you are working on is say a bedroom and the other side is the living room I would remove the drywall on the bedroom side of the door put the studs in and then you'll have to put a patch piece of drywall back up over it once you have completed the project. Which then requires one of my least favorite things to do which is mud and tape.

@@BevinsBuilds no drywall. Pored plaster &lattice...thx 4 reply

Actually if the walls are poured plaster I wouldn't be as concerned about studs being in the inside especially if the plaster is lathe board as the small planks they use to adhere the plaster to should more than sufficiently hold your screws in place unlike drywall that has no support in it at all. Providing the doors you are hanging are not extremely heavy.

@@BevinsBuilds coo coo thx. I just been staring at it

Hey Joseph thanks and thanks for watching :)

Great video! We’re about to build a non load bearing wall with a prehung door to section off a newly installed bathroom in our upstairs bedroom. One question I have that I’ve seen different answers for is should we remove the existing drywall where our frame and header will be secured to the ceiling and existing sidewalls . I’ve read if you don’t the drywall might eventually crack. A

It is, but I prefer screws :)