How To Spot A Quality Suit - Hallmarks of Expensive Bespoke Suits For Men

How To Spot A Quality Suit - Hallmarks of Expensive Bespoke Suits For Men - Gentleman's Gazette

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Never get your hands on cheap suits, again! Find out what makes a high-end suit: gentl.mn/what-makes-a-quality...
In case you missed these, check out our other videos about SUITS: HOW TO SPOT A CHEAP SUIT: gentl.mn/2x0zPi0
HOW A SUIT SHOULD FIT: gentl.mn/2gp4wu5
SUIT JACKET CONSTRUCTION: gentl.mn/2ytQJc5
HOW PANTS SHOULD FIT: gentl.mn/2zfjnej
TIE BAR & CLIP PRIMER: gentl.mn/2hKo6h7
00:00 INTRODUCTION
00:29 LABEL
02:04 ROUNDED CORNERS
02:33 PICK STITCHING
03:32 INSIDE STITCHING
04:50 COLLAR
05:23 PATTERN MATCHING
06:41 BUTTONHOLES
07:33 FABRIC RESERVE
08:12 GRINZE
09:07 BUTTONS
10:03 SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION
11:10 MATERIAL LABEL
11:42 TROUSER WAISTBAND
12:10 CUSTOMIZATIONS
SHOP THE VIDEO:
1. Madder Silk Tie in Purple with Paisley - gentl.mn/2hGsMo2
2. Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Navy Blue and Red - gentl.mn/2ykRdBH
3. Silk Pocket Square in Light Purple - gentl.mn/2wSa6Zb
#howtospotaqualitysuit #suitsformen #notsponsored
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Пікірлер: 202

@lukecage9836 6 жыл бұрын

Just bought a nice quality suit from a thrift store for $13!

@kewebco 6 жыл бұрын

Yeah, dude, bout 15 years ago I got 2 Amani from Cartier for $48 [including the $8 for dry cleaning 4 pieces] in a Thrift store in West Kakalackee [go figure]. They fitted like a glove but I did nothing to them but wear and dry clean, and I'm hard on stuff. About 3 years ago I donated them forward. I've also picked up Halston, Dior, Burberry...about $9500 retail value for $170, including the dry cleaning. I've gone expensive before but I avoid doing it today after that first experience. I sometimes buy new for cheap, and it feels like it.

@kewebco 6 жыл бұрын

Previously I'd ALWAYS bought new, never even considering buying [wearing] somebody's throw away. Still don't know why I got started unless making a decision to stop overspending. Glad I came to my senses. Thrift store rocks.

@Mortsandmore 5 жыл бұрын

Lucky!! Cant beat a great deal on a high quality suit

@ScoopDogg 5 жыл бұрын

You got ripped off, a week later they had them on sale for $5.00 or free if you bought two jars of the $2.00 coffee. I know it is expensive, but you can get it on credit @ only 2000% apr They even do Batman suit n cape with accessories belt included OMG ; /

@rhdtv2002 4 жыл бұрын

I bought a brand new Hugo boss suit that was 1200 for 200 at a store called Last Chance..best suit I ever bought..

@balaam_7087 Жыл бұрын

As I sit here in my Fruit of the Loom underwear with a torn waistband, my left sock replete with a hole wherein my pinky toe is exposed, and my thrift store t-shirt with a faded orange pattern swooping down the chest from where I wipe the Dorito powder from my fingers, I found this video a grim reminder not everything turned out how I thought it would in life.

@Tearflavoredcereal Жыл бұрын

😂😂 funniest comment I’ve seen on KZfaq in a long time

@danieldumas7361 Жыл бұрын

I must say that the added visual helped tremendously, as some of us aren't familiar with the lingo.

@CyclingSatan 6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for amazing videos like this. As a recent college grad trying to build my wardrobe with quality garments, I often search thrift store to save some cash needed elsewhere. Using the tips you mentioned here and in other videos helped me pick up a $2000 sports jacket for $15. I could have skipped right by it, but was able to identify some quality hallmarks you suggest to look for. Thank you Gentlemens Gazette.

@amilcarpolanen5994 6 жыл бұрын

Presentation and content of the gentleman is always perfect.I am glad people like this still exist in this day in age.

@treystoddard5382 Жыл бұрын

I bought a 1943 quality suit, I can tell it's wool, as I can feel the fabric! Thank you so much for making this video! I got it from salvation army for $23!

@MrAds213 3 жыл бұрын

I started selling suits at a Macy's. I've been learning so much from my co workers and I've been learning so much from this Channel and from RMRS!

@dmax2068 Жыл бұрын

as someone who sells, on 1-100 how important is the material in the video relative to the quality of the fabric, ie super fine wool?

@ethanoreilly2002 Жыл бұрын

Thank you Gentleman's Gazette! Thanks to your videos I was able to find thifted a beautiful bespoke made blue vintage suit from Hong Kong. It fits really nice too

@stylishoversixty9459 6 жыл бұрын

This video showcases all the hallmarks in what to look for in a high quality suit indeed very helpful information thanks!

@i.m.7710 6 жыл бұрын

12:38 "leave behind the Crap suit" 😂 Love your videos and humor! Love the entire outfit!

@andreasjohansson4050 6 жыл бұрын

Hi Raphael! I think you did a great job on creating this list and I will be searching for these quality haulmarks when I'm out thrifting for suits and jackets. By the way do you have some more examples on how I can improve my ability to tell the difference on hand sewn and machine sewn when it comes to the collar,lapels and buttonholes?

@theconservativecastwmiguel5013 2 жыл бұрын

I got a Ralph Lauren 100% wool jacket from goodwill for like 8 bucks or something 😂 I would've easily paid 600 for it if I saw it on the rack anywhere else.

@Aplaceformermaids 4 жыл бұрын

Making a suit right now and this was very helpful! :)

@kojiattwood 4 жыл бұрын

That grey jacket is definitely a Caraceni, I recognize the lining :)

@roychefets6961 4 жыл бұрын

Handmade button holes, sleeve buttons that kiss, full silk lining the same color as the suit except the sleeves which are lined in striped silk. And on some very beautiful Italian suits I have had, lots of virtually invisible stitching on each side of the jacket between the pocket and the bottom of the jacket. (I guess it affects the way the jacket hangs.)

@conradfield 2 жыл бұрын

Fantastic video. Just watched a video of these two "influencers" shopping for bespoke suits and comparing expensive and inexpensive ones, and I learned absolutely nothing. This video I couldn't stop taking notes lol.

@latetotheparty7551 6 жыл бұрын

Great information, as expected. Now off to a thrift r vintage store to practice spotting these!

@sy2see 4 жыл бұрын

Beautiful suit. Love the colours.

@MrBassplayer1210 5 жыл бұрын

I love the art of a suit shirt and tie ! Either you do it correctly or not at all

@artSFCA 6 жыл бұрын

Very articulate! Nice presentation.

@momotheelder7124 6 жыл бұрын

Love the lapels and patch pockets on your jacket, very old school

@dr.s.p. 5 жыл бұрын

Great video. Great channel!

@GagaTheArcher Жыл бұрын

Nice suit in the end, great content for clueless like me. Thanks 🙂💕

@kadirvalkad8570 5 жыл бұрын

I could listen to you all day.

@alexandrebegin8862 6 жыл бұрын

Greetings Mr. Schneider! I wanted to thank you for this awesome video, great work as always. I also wanted to ask you a question: Is an overcoat with a belt and cuff straps possible? I recently bought a wool/cashmere blend camel colored double breasted overcoat with shoulder straps, a belt and cuff straps and it is CLEARLY not a trench coat and does not feature a gun flap. It also fits well on the shoulders. Is it a "trendy" trench coat that I made the mistake of buying or is it an overcoat like I tought? Perhaps it is something else? Thank you for your (or anyone's) response! Best regards, Alex.

@cowboyhank456 6 жыл бұрын

I love that suit! The color is so rich and the fit is nearly perfect

@MrShazaamable 6 жыл бұрын

Cowboy Hank what would you change to make it perfect

@cowboyhank456 6 жыл бұрын

To be perfectly honest, not much besides the small gaping next to his collar (perhaps because of his shoulders, perhaps it just isn't sitting correctly). I just didn't want to call it perfect and have somebody correct me, pointing out some minute detail I haven't trained myself to look at yet.

@peterkompter2417 3 жыл бұрын

@@cowboyhank456 maybe the pant cuffs, as said made after, to bad by cheap. Cuffs are to small on the pant legs and make them pucker, said there was lots of seam so should have let them out on the cuffs and iron them better so they are flat and not rolled over on the inside left one. How can you miss something so obvious

@Loukbots 6 жыл бұрын

The “pick stitching” underneath the lapel is actually called pad stitching

@danbee415 2 жыл бұрын

This video is so incredibility helpful.

@Mr.Ciobanu 6 жыл бұрын

amazing video as always...do you happen to know is the shoulder pads on a jacket can be removed ? can a tailor remove them ?

@kristizhang4473 6 жыл бұрын

Very useful info

@joemoon5227 2 жыл бұрын

Outstanding video

@AltonGermain Жыл бұрын

I need to watch this a few more times with my notebook

@lifeisshortsomoveon1405 4 жыл бұрын

I tried a pocket square today with a Sport coat and was approached by two young ladies who simple asked me the time when I noticed they both had on apple watches. ZZ Top said it best "Cause every girl's crazy 'bout a sharp dressed man"

@ksmccc 6 жыл бұрын

I'm fan of 'how to spot' series video :)

@matthewjackson9615 6 жыл бұрын

A really nice suit will really make a difference and people do notice these things, especially if you're a salesman, manager or in some position where your overall personal image is important. Seems to me though that the trend is to eliminate the suit altogether and make casual duds the de rigueur . I've never been impressed with a CEO dressed down in blue jeans and sneakers. Whether you want to believe or not, people are visual animals and how you dress evokes a definite psychological response. People will make up their minds about you in the first 10 seconds after seeing you. I can tell you from personal experience that this is the case.

@Mortsandmore 5 жыл бұрын

Agreed on this. You cant beat a great suit when trying to make the best non-verbal first impression (in business). It all depends on business sector obviously.

@Sheurip 5 жыл бұрын

Matthew Jackson , hey , this is Paarvez Anwar from Bangladesh . You are absolutely right!

5 жыл бұрын

Excellent and Accurate statement! What shocks me more than anything in the entire world, is when I see gorgeous women dolled-up to perfection when going out at night, and the men are dressed like homeless scumbags!!! 99% of the men that I witness going out at night are dressed in shorts, t-shirt, and sandals!!! These men are disgustingly PATHETIC human beings!!! And the women who actually choose these types of men have absolutely no respect for themselves!!!

@ckryegrass11 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah but the tough thing is many and i mean many people are aware of what you say and dress to impress. But it only lasts that first 10 seconds. After they speak you just see a numpty in a suit.

@user-iu1ru1qz7u 3 жыл бұрын

@ Nah that just sounds like you're butthurt and envious. Clearly these "dolls" like their men for a reason and the absurd snotty standard you're trying to project isn't it. Having style is great, some don't have it, their problem. Stop being an angry incel.

@roychefets6961 3 жыл бұрын

Two bespoke suits that I had made showed the same unusual feature. One was from an expensive tailor in Hong Kong, the other was made by a highy recommended tailor in Milan. On the front of the jacket near the bottom and above were dozens of almost invisible pick stitches. Is this to make the jacket hang better? It was a lot of extra hand work.

@OnniMartikainen 3 ай бұрын

About the fabric reserve thing you told about. Millionaire/billionaire customers in the tailor shop that I work on do not want 2 centimeters more on the back side. We make pants that fit. If the pants do not fit after few years, we make new ones.

@pablorenan1 6 жыл бұрын

you must work as salesman cause after watching this video , i feel like i wan to buy a vintage suit

@f_m_3682 4 жыл бұрын

Gorgeous mise, Herr Schneider. I really love the suit, as well as the colors you have used, but I would definitively have used a wider necktie, in proportion to the lapels.

@mattbarz9538 7 ай бұрын

Good will had a dusty baker MLB coach suit jacket. Got it for 14$ everything you described is on this suit. 💯 wool and full silk lining !!

@markletts2000 5 жыл бұрын

Have it tailor made,if you can afford it..labels are just that,you can have suit made overnight in HK or Thailand with any label you want..great video,TY

@markhobabasoro5822 6 жыл бұрын

I have a question What is your opinion on flex suits meshed with high quality materials? or flex suits in general are they still high quality in your opinion?

@korona3103 4 жыл бұрын

On a heavier weight jacket an easy tell is a good press on the lapel since it's a repetitive and slow process that has to be done by hand. Nice action pleats btw.

@df9447 6 жыл бұрын

Can you recommend an online store that sells good quality trousers with side adjusters and not belt loops? Struggling to find online

@howardgoldstein8290 6 жыл бұрын

Just as an FYI-the stitching on the underside of a lapel which both holds the canvas in place & helps with the roll of the lapel on a quality suit is called pad stitching....

@seanbrennan7807 4 жыл бұрын

That tie you have on would look amazing as a shirt i would pay top dollar to have a shirt in that color it would look so vibrant and fresh looking

@IanSu6 6 жыл бұрын

Always hitting the like button before watching just because. :)

@tristan-bb7zj 6 жыл бұрын

The suit looks great

@TheSeanoops 6 жыл бұрын

That is a fantastic suit.

@MrPolfavela 5 жыл бұрын

That was a straightforward way to put the Italian / English / Parisian shoulders.

@youssouphafall6966 6 жыл бұрын

Magnifique jolie démonstration la totale Classe D'elegance HD du savoir faire. Joliment Merci

@baklei7100 4 жыл бұрын

exact !

@marcreynald7243 4 жыл бұрын

my suit spine or middle back stitching looks quite loose. my suit is half lined. it fits perfect but is the stitching should be a little loose?

@kojiattwood 4 жыл бұрын

1:12 Whoa...Caraceni!

@Alex18442 6 жыл бұрын

What do you guys think about made to measure from suitsupply? They pass all quality hallmarks Sven mentioned. Still a waste?

@desanctisapostata 4 жыл бұрын

Cotton twill flannel? Wow! Is it the same as a brushed cotton?

@MrAzizFace 6 жыл бұрын

You should do a video on how to wear purple!!

@zackhallam914 4 жыл бұрын

I got a few Oswald Boetang suits Seville Row...

@JLConawayII 6 жыл бұрын

That's a great suit.

@greewilliams307 4 жыл бұрын

This dude be sharp as a tack.

@Maxtorym 6 жыл бұрын

hi every1, i want to start buying a suit or jacket first. so what is a good start to step in with.

@thom-mark6443 3 жыл бұрын

Also, the lining is the last part assembled on a high end garment. If the cuff and body buttons are sewn through the lining put it back on the rack and shop elsewhere.

@kylecurran6747 3 жыл бұрын

Got my hands on a Ravazzolo jacket for $40 🙏🏻

@thecollector5243 5 жыл бұрын

Pattern matching is a pain, let me tell you. I always need more fabric for a suit or jackets than for non-pattern ones.

@danielpaula5238 4 жыл бұрын

Have a chance to pick up a bunch of Orazio Luciano suits. They high end suits? Good buy at $40 a piece to resell?

@theave5213 6 жыл бұрын

Do you get manufactures to do your suits or do it manually yourself?

@chrislongford8313 6 жыл бұрын

Please do a wardrobe tour

@viktor.madarasz 4 жыл бұрын

what do You think of Turkish suits...for example Sarar (they have stores now in Europe f.e Germany)?

@ghrjr1 6 жыл бұрын

what do you think of a hartshaffnerand marx suit

@danielonlinemarketing 5 жыл бұрын

Where do you find so many jackets with functional sleeve buttons? I can't umagine that they're all custom, as you iften talk about buying g vintage... I've been looking all over and functional buttons seem to be extremely rare unless I go bespoke, which I certainly can't afford all the time...

@Kryptik33 5 жыл бұрын

Who made the Brown suit he is wearing in this video? It looks great! I love those slightly roped shoulders. They look so good Imo.

@wilfdarr 4 жыл бұрын

See, I really (really) don't. To me they like like they were sewn by an amateur who couldn't get them quite lined up. But I love the way the arms fall, and now I understand why the suit cuts I like never fit quite right...time for some self reflection I think.

@shanewright2772 6 жыл бұрын

It is mylifetime dream to own an Anderson and Sheppard suit. navy blue. Single Breasted, cut by Leon Powell. It made my heart jump just to see that label.

@roychefets6961 3 жыл бұрын

You will be disappointed by the clumsy finishing.

@bienvenumusangu2162 6 жыл бұрын

Je suis toujours impressionné par ton savoir sur l'habillement. Thanks for revealing the secrets of expensive quality suits. Unfortunately, it is not easy to find them where chinese products have invaded the marchet. I will consider your advise before any purchase. Tu es une référence pour moi. Merci encore pour ce grand et précieux travail.

@gentlemansgazette 6 жыл бұрын

+Bienvenu Musangu merci

@zzzzzzzzzz098 3 жыл бұрын

5:05 I watched this video and then went to look at my suits and I can confidently say that I am 100% sure that I still have no idea what to look for.

@christrahi16 4 жыл бұрын

What do you think about Eduard Dressler suits? :)

@rishiwastad 6 жыл бұрын

Your video needless to say is brilliant ,could you please make a guide to suspenders and different types of classics pants. I am from India and I have no clue how to instruct my tailor about style, however he is good when it comes to fitting the pants.

@kidze31 2 жыл бұрын

hi, which high quality suit maker can I go to bespoke in Chicago? Thank you.

@TheAvesMYSTR 6 жыл бұрын

Hi Sven! Thoughts on Gagliardi? Seen them featured in a few of your videos now! Thanks

@keithkvaj 4 жыл бұрын

I would not be caught dead with those suit

@TeddyBearrrs 6 жыл бұрын

I like the new vibrant navy blue silky suits like TV reporters wear today

@crisyorke1328 6 жыл бұрын

Do I even need to check the quality of Stefano Ricci suit? One suit cost $5,000 already. Mine is around $7,000.

@ChardeeM 5 жыл бұрын

Hi! Is there a women's version to your channel? I love all your tips for my boyfriend, lol but I would like to look just as good! 😏

@gerardacronin3095 4 жыл бұрын

Chardee M Check out Justine Leconte officiel. She is a French designer working in Berlin.

@jeremyemilio9378 4 жыл бұрын

12:47 a 500 thousand suit?

@peterturner1582 4 жыл бұрын

There is absolutely NO correlation between how much a suit costs and what quality it is just as there is NO correlation between designer labels and the quality of a suit. The best suits I have ever owned came from a tailor in Hoi An Vietnam who gained his qualifications in France. I go there every couple of years and have a half a dozen made. Style wise I always take a photo of the type of suit I want (from a high end fashion magazine) and he re-creates them perfectly at about 1/8 th the price. He only uses pure Italian wool made from ultra-fine pure Australian merino wool and the lining are all pure silk.

@KaiserFranzJosefI 4 жыл бұрын

Generally, the best materials are of significantly higher price thus translating into higher ending price. You found yourself a remarkable exception.

@peterturner1582 4 жыл бұрын

@@KaiserFranzJosefI Yes I have and I will be distraught when he retires. I just hope the other tailors in his business have been trained similarly, even if only by him.

@jojobrown5079 Жыл бұрын

Contacts?

@TrevorKeenAnimation 6 жыл бұрын

When he flips the lapel up you can see the little string loop below the buttonhole to hold a flower in place. Most suits have the lapel buttonhole but not the loop. So why have the buttonhole?

@doraymi7963 2 жыл бұрын

Mainly for decorative purposes or because historically it's been that way

@nazariyanton1735 6 жыл бұрын

why is there a seam under the lapels of some of the suits? ive never seen that before.

@AnthonySforza 5 жыл бұрын

You've probably gotten this answer already, but most inexpensive suits won't have it due to gluing the canvassing on the inside. Which makes the front of the suit feel kind of stiff, being that the glue has the fabric anchored to the canvas and not allowing it to move with you. Eventually, the glue breaks down and creates a weird rippling effect that loos like... like sun blisters on a car, but in fabric, if that makes sense. If that seam is there, then they sewed the canvas in, which means it's going to last a lot longer, in addition to only being anchored by those seams, so it's pretty much free to flex and contour with you as you move around.

@derrickadam1026 3 ай бұрын

Hey Raffi How come every time I need to buy something People treat it like it’s a life decision?

@seapops 5 жыл бұрын

How about John Wicks suit? Now those are really bespoke... It's stylish and it's bullet proof.

@Rirozaj 2 жыл бұрын

Easy,it should be good quality

@nikolaskoulountis6200 5 жыл бұрын

Why do the trousers look too short?

@ramatgan1 4 жыл бұрын

Never take your suit to a dry cleaner and if you REALLY have to use a specialist dry cleaner. Invest in a quality suit brush with a bristle made from natural fibers. Preferably boar or horse hair and gently brush it after. Get a quality wooden hanger with wide shoulders and never use those wire hangers.

@AnilSharma-gb3kj 2 жыл бұрын

Pattern matching etc is okay, but rather strange the uneven, loose stich, vis a vis an even and firm stich, is a hallmark of a high quality suit..!!

@Bloodylogostattoo Жыл бұрын

Bro I think you probably notice your thick thighs more than other people probably do man you mention it all the frickin time they’re fine legs homie

@peterkompter2417 5 жыл бұрын

expensive does not equate with well made

@johnhenson8244 3 жыл бұрын

peter kompter or to stylish. An expensive suit can still make you look like a clown.

@ryanlee354 6 жыл бұрын

"my big thighs"

@TheGabygael 2 жыл бұрын

what's the point of not knowing what the suit is made out of? Kinda sucks to pay so much for an item not to know if it can cause allergies, how it'll perform and how to take proper care of it

@anarchic_ramblings 6 жыл бұрын

I wanna see that $500,000 suit!

@pdbsstudios7137 2 жыл бұрын

5:36 sorry, that's not striped, it is a gessato

@AnthonySforza 5 жыл бұрын

So... if it's a high-end brand then it should have material labels with all the fiber contents in the fabrics, much like a lower costing suit, but if it's a bespoke suit, then it shouldn't? I see.