Thanks for putting this video on here because me and my dad was getting wood when ours ran out of fuel my dad somewhat knew what the problem was but he said this really helped us get it started so ,thank ya

Thank you for being so detailed. You saved me in 93° weather!

Perfect. Just what I needed today to get my old welder running. It’s a simple process, if you’re aware of it. Thanks for making this video.

thanks, good video... just bought an old 68 Case CK 580... will definitely keep the diesel topped up to avoid this, but thanks for showing how to deal with it

Excellent,you just solved my problem,happy days😂

Sweet, Nice job. Followed the instructions to a tee, and only had to bleed the system 3 times, and boom, off she went. Ford 555 3 cylinder. Then I promptly blew a hydraulic line..... At least the motor is running...

Just crack them injector lines and turn it over till they spray fuel. You ain't bleeding brakes.

Thank you this helped me with my 3 cylinder 3500 ford though mine is a little different but this showed me the things I needed to know.

Thank you, this resolved my problem.

That's one of them old 1978 or so Ford 545's or so. I've worked on that particular type. It is a solid piece of equipment. 3 cylinder Perkins diesel is simple and reliable. I like the backhoe model. Got a lot done with it.

Any time I have done this, I have always cranked the engine over while the one injector fitting is cracked open until the bubbles stop. Then re-tighten the fitting and usually that cylinder will fire and the engine will start on that one cylinder and then the rest will soon start to fire.

Thanks very informative

thank, you for you're video.🙏

thank, you for you're video

I bought a 1966 case ck 530 180 Diesel Backhoe the man that I bought the Backhoe from he had took the fuel tank off to clean the tank out so now we got to do what you're explaning now.

To save your battery and starter you can connect an in line bulb type pump to push the fuel around. You also need to be careful that you dont suck crap through if the tank was empty. I had to drain my tank and pull the strainer after i ran my old Ford 66610 out of fuel

Thanks bro

Great video - just saved me some $$. I knew the problem but after bleeding ONCE I was ready for a mechanic. Your last few comments were on the money. Looks like a Ford 3400 industrial?

Don't worry about fuel level on that tractor as the bottom of the tank is higher than the pump. That's not the correct way to bleed the fuel lines. After bleeding the filter, then the small screw on the pump then loosen at least two injectors THEN crank the motor for max 30 seconds or till fuel is squirting good then tighten the injector lines up and it will start. I've owned my 1970 4500 for 51 yrs. Low battery/slow cranking is the enemy. Low voltage equals high amps. High amps equals heat. Lots of heat. I've bought my share of starters (school of hard knocks). This motor doesn't want to start with slow cranking. The better the battery and faster cranking the easier it starts. Cold weather's a different story as you do the same thing and add cold weather procedures. Block heater for 2 to 3 hrs is best. Glow plug (kind of. It actually vaporized and heats fuel in the intake manifold) The only way you're going to start it on a cold day with out the block heater or ether (ether's bad bad bad.)

Nice video. Thanks for putting this together. I think at 1:20 that's not technically called your fuel pump. I believe you were pointing to your injector pump, the fuel pump is just a ahead of that I would imagine.

From what my dad tells me, diesels are a pain in the butt to start after running out. Even after putting fuel in the tank, it still takes forever to get the thing started

Worked for us! Thank You!

Thanks for sharing. Looking for a video clip showing how to bleed & prime a '73 Perkins 3 cyL. Helping a neighbor w/ his, he replaced the 3 rusty fuel lines from the pump to the injectors, but now we can't get it to hit a single Lick. Manual pumped the lift pump, but it wasn't moving a lot of fuel. Any advice much appreciated. Thanks again, - take care.

you can also use some starting fluid sprayed throw the intake..but you mustbe be very carefull! i use it cause the injectors in my tractor ar in a very tight spot! THANKS FOR THE VIDEO

Crack open all your ejector lines at the same time and turn over the engine with the lines sill open and as each one drips a lot diesel fuel close that line off. Saves a lot of battery life and extra motor turning over. .You still might have to do this several times till it catches and keeps running. Never ever let these run out of diesel or it could cost you 30 to 90 Minutes in bleeding...small LOL

What if the tank is lower then the filter and the injectors?

What year model is this? Looks like the pump is on the opposite side of the '73 I'm working on. So the nut er screw on the side of the pump needs to be loosened & crank til no bubbles also? Thanks, - take care.

Cut an inner tube in half that is the same size as the tank opening. Clamp one end on the tank and clamp the other end shut. Put a little air in the tube. Start the tractor.

Really getting the most value out of that rear tire there.

I can't tell for sure but your levers look a little longer than mine. Since mine had 600hrs on it when my dad bought it from the insurance Co (theft recovery) (why is it that in 1970 the FBI tracked it down because the used the serial# to buy a broken turn table unloading it hit the concrete hard but they can't find my $6000 quad?) Anyway as the pins wore the lever started hitting the metal in front of it and I had to start banging forward harder to get it in float. I ended up drilling and went to Bearings inc and bought a small long fine needle bearing then drilled a hole for in the leaver facing the fender for a small grease fitting (I know over kill when a bushing would have sufficed) I can't say you have float because at the time there were different options for that machine like auto leveler ( just learned to not let dirt and rocks fall on me) I operated the newest, fanciest equipment in 40 yrs but when I get on the 4500 it's just like riding a bike) (my cousin bought his new and roaded it everywhere if he didn't borrow dads lowboy, but not often. He used to work it at Clarion state college during the week and road it home 40 miles to work here for the weekend hitting every bar on the way down. The back to Clarion Mon morn for the week you'd see him coming down the road standing up, you can do that on a straddler.) then he bought the high deck kit like yours. Oh his had the torque converter FWD/REV shuttle) ( he had auto dig feature on the hoe but it never really worked that well.) If yours ends up not having float it shouldn't be to hard to find a used one. If it ever starts using ANY antifreeze find out where it's going. Mine pitted the head and through the head gasket and very slow used antifreeze. I had to mill .030 off the head. The yrs later not taking care of the antifreeze electrolysis eat a soft plug then a hole through the cylinder wall into the water jacket just below the oil wiper rings on the piston when it was the whole way down. I fixed it. 1988 (I really need to put new antifreeze in it now.) Some where I have videos and pictures doing it. TAKE CARE OF YOUR SWING CHAINS! keep them oiled up they're not cheap. I never did but the Large bottom turn table pin should have a plate bolted to keep the dirt out. It gets wore bad egg shaped. Every time you put down pressure on the boom the turn table moves back and pulls the swing chains just a little. Look for cracked links and be ready to drop the bucket to the ground because you can't stop it with a broken chain. I have cracked links now so I go gentle with it. We tried to rebuild the links with spare links from broken chains but didn't last at all. Yrs latter I look back thinking the links weren't wore the same so the least wore one broke first then one after the other and all of a sudden there goes the bucket. Don't hit that guy or truck standing by the ditch. I learned yrs ago stop and say you can't stand there. I had different thoughts of drilling them straight but I think the links are to hard. The swing cylinders only pull. There is a small rubber hose that connects the back of the two cylinders for the air to flow back and forth. That's fine till the packing starts to leak. OK till you swing past your normal swing then the oil pushes through the hose to the other cylinder unknowing to you pushing the other polished rod out making the chain loose and when you stop it doesn't stop because the chain was pushed out loose. WOW! So when you figure what's going on you pull the hose off one cylinder and let the little bit of leakage go on the ground. I have no time for that now winters coming an I have two more septics and 3 drive ways to do yet. That WAS all well and fine till it's really leaking because the open port and hose has been sucking up mud and well you know. Take a break.

What were you doing at the end of the video with the clear plastic hose into the fuel fill hole?

I LIKE THE FRAME OF THE GROWING TENT GALVANISED POLE TUNNELS POLY TUNNELS ARE VERY GOOD WORLDWIDE UNLESS YOU LIVE IN A SECURE PEICE OF LAND AND PROPERTY WHERE A GREENHOUSE IS POSSIBLE WITH GLASS

So is this a Perkins 3 cyL ?... Good tip on the spiral fuel flow, you can also put a hook shaped wire between the funnel & filler neck.

Omg. I wish I'd known this before I ran out. *sob*

You can put gas on a rag and hold it at the breather..the fumes will start it long enough to bleed everything..And it's safer than either..

ALWYAS LEAVE THE SPANNERS NEEDED WITH THE WNGIN ATTACH THEM TO THE ENGINE SOMEHOW . THIS IS IMPOSSIBLE WHEN YOU HAVE NO SPANNER TO FIT CORRECTLY AND IT MUST BE THE EXACT SPANNER ALWAYS .

I have to buy more diesel tomorrow.

No i just crank it to it fires up.. no bleeding or nothing, pressure will build back up and it will cough and fart itself back into running

I did not run MY DIESEL out of fuel. I had to remove the FUEL TAKE off to clean it out then it would not START UP after that.

2999 f250 f9rd superduty

fuel tank

the background music doesn't help. make it hard to hear you sometimes.

That is the worst dry rot I've ever seen holy shit

Didn't I see the same tractor and same concept with a different guy

Dude you obviously have no idea what you're doing. You have to leave the injectors cracked loose and crank it over until you don't see any more air bubbling out. I don't know why you loosen it then tighten it then loosen it then tighten it then loosen it then tighten it. Leave it loose and crank it and get the job done

Pitiful!