i guess im asking randomly but does someone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!

@Cade Arthur Instablaster ;)

@Wesson Shepherd i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Wesson Shepherd It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D Thank you so much, you saved my ass !

@Cade Arthur Glad I could help xD

Petg or abs

I had the same issue with my mk3, i suggest that you retighten the extruder gear as og might be too tight, worked for meg at least

Useless I'm afraid.. because the filament is flexible.. There is no way to accurately calculate the spacing between the support and dense layers. So the support material literally just becomes part of the model

I just printed TPU 95 A for the first time, and it is soft, flexible, and feels like rubber. The brand I used is Inland TPU in translucent green. What are you using the material for?

@@BLueFeaTHeRedOliVeS I just bought some of this . What temps did you print and what were you bed temps

@@mastermachetier5594 Nozzle Temp 235°C, Bed Temp 65°C, glass bed w/Elmer's washable glue stick (the kind that goes on purple but dries clear). Alternative bed adhesion: Stuck too well to bare painters tape, use the glue stick on top the tape for release agent. Printer is cr10s. Edit: Flow Rate in Cura is 120 and feed rate on the printer is 120 (not sure if this was necessary or due to the fact I had a partial clog in the bowden tube right at the hotend that I diagnosed/discovered right after my TPU prints)

NinjaTek Chinchilla. Perfect replacement for rubber, but maybe a bit "springy-er".

bad idea bcz all this channel does is point out the good things as they want you to buy one from them, none of their stuff is a reveiw, all advertisements

Bowden setups are not good for printing flexibles. You'll have to print at very slow speeds like 20mm/sec and retraction turned off and you may still have problems

I have good success printing sainsmart tpu on my stock ender 3. That filament is pretty stiff for tpu so that helps. I print at 210c and speed can vary depending on what I'm printing. If its a basic near solid object I do 40mm/s if its intricate with lots of opportunity for stringing I run between 15-20mm/s

The sticky part is what contacts the bed so the not sticky side is what the filament sticks to it might sound weird to have the less sticky side or the side that you print on but almost all filaments stick well to the paper like coating of the painters tape

printed a lot of PETG and while it has it's advantages (and disadvantages like oozing and getting Z offset high enough and nickel plated nozzle), it still fails short to ABS in terms of temperature level it can take before melting. ABS or even better, ASA are 20 °C more temperature resistant (70 °C for PETG, 90 °C for ABS/ASA). That's a lot. Of course, if you want much higher temperature and strike resistance, CF Nylon is a way to go. Well, except for price.

Petg sucks

@@elsunshine9976 actually, it’s much better material than PLA. yes, it’s harder to dial in but it sticks to bed like crazy.

@@ZhuJo99 I've learned a lot about ABS since writing that comment. I agree.

@@Joe_Yacketori it really depends on the brand of filament. Yes, ABS is ideally printed in the chamber, but the one I use from Devil Design (poland), ABS+ is really good and prints easily even on open printer. Sticks like crazy to the glass (using ABS slurry, but seems like I don't need it). No warping, no cracking. I printed even bigger parts, taller parts and layer adhesion is great. Sure, for tall narrow objects it's good idea to use Draft shield to keep heat in the area of printed object, but otherwise it's great. I would not trust to cheap ABS from chinese companies in terms of quality and printability. Nero3d has a great set of tutorials on how to print ABS - I strongly suggest to watch it. With right settings I was absolutely amazed how easily it printed. Yes, there is 100 % chance that I would be bitching on ABS if I would use other filaments but with DD brand I'm very happy. Since I print only functional parts I basically don't order PLA anymore. Will print the rest of PETG I have and done, will use only ABS+ and CF Nylon (for really serious stuff) from Innovatefil or Treed filaments (it's Luvacom german material as a source in both cases). Biggest advantage of this ABS? Due to it's lower volume weight ratio you get a LOT more of it in 1 kg spool. And spool costs about the same as PLA and is cheaper than PETG :)

Beep boop