@Dat Boi Bruh moment

@Dat Boi Wrong car, wrong character

@Dat Boi its actually Ryosuke

@@nolansprinkle813 it’s actually dio

Im not sure if you did this on accident because of the meme or on purpose since the voice actor of ryosuke and dio is the same

What burns em out is cold start cold kill and the unburned gas stays in there, gas washes the walls of oil then restart wears seals a ton because no oil film on the walls. Cylinder engines do this too but the way piston rings are designed the wear doesn't lose compression near as bad because rings can expand with wear and still seal. The only thing that effects is ring gap but generally engine still will run a long time fine. Plus say 4 cylinders wear and lose compression the other 4 that didn't can start and get the others fired up. Unfortunately u don't have that with a rotary or a single cylinder engine. Either it starts or not. Twin rotor slightly better but yeah. Don't cold start car drive 3 miles and park. Let that thing warm up first... Rotaries w low miles are ironically higher risk than high miles because at least the higher mile gets driven a lot

@@ShogunAutoworks So basically I can still drive it in the cold. But I just gotta let it warm up before driving?

same

Man I’m scared rn

Hmm got me thinking now. My coil has a big crack in it and my car did lose a lot of power. Still starts like a champ though

hope you didn't buy it, thatll need a rebuild soon.

TFR lol I was planning to buy one that had 200k km on it, so 93k doesn’t seem too bad. The owner doesn’t know if it the engine has been rebuilt but claims that the engine is still working and drives great.

TFR lol I was planning to buy one that had 200k km on it, so 93k doesn’t seem too bad. The owner doesn’t know if it the engine has been rebuilt but claims that the engine is still working and drives great.

@@tfr6 I picked one up with 79k on it, but it does 0-60 in 6.3 seconds, and runs good. Just need to clean the cat out

Just bought a 2006 rx8 with 132k miles. It's been about 2 weeks and it runs amazing. Still gonna get the compression test and all that done just to be safe

pepsuchan from what ive read over tge past 3 years of owning a rotary when you rebuild you can expect to replace the rotors and the irons in most cases. Id have to believe that when a seal wears out it would have to fall out into the housing causing catastrophic damage to the rotor and housing. Thats my guess anyway

Yea It sucks. To actually rebuild an engine your looking at lots of money. On Atkins Rotary the rotors are about $750 (2) = $1500 plus a couple housings $600 (2) = $1200 Plus a rebuild kit $1250. If you need an Eccentric shaft that's another $1300...

You most likely cant rebuild for less than 3k

zvmb get an fb, they are just as nice as an fc and still tons of fun. Also they are way cheaper.

i want an fb :(

No no you dont its a bad headache

i think he didnt because the temp indicator was at the minimun

Unless it's the one at the bottom left

Did you find out what it is? Mine does that a lot. I think its probably due to computers expecting a brand new engine and using those fuel injection formulas when in reality, every engine has wear (its just not a big amount for piston engines, so its more present in rotaries). That's what I would guess, because it seems to give it a little more rev for a second after it recovers (which is what a carbaurated engine will do sometimes with the extra unburnt fuel, but the 13b I have is fuel injected, so that wouldn't make sense, its probably computer compensating for rpm). Mine has fairly new race coil replacement, but I will be changing out the plugs soon. I wouldn't think it would be plugs though, it only does it on mine when idling super hot after driving around fast. Its enough to drop the RPM gauge down to 500 rpm to where I think its going to stop the engine, but it's always revved back up. One fix would be to turn the RPM up a little (it doesn't happen at 1k rpm or any amount of throttle). It may be like my diesel Mercedes where I had it idle at 500 rpm because it could, but maybe it really shouldn't and 900 rpm was just an arbitrary number by marketing since people might think 1k rpm was "idling high", which for a normal engine probably would, but its not a normal engine.

however there are many disadvantages to the rotary engine which has kept it from being successful. frist it is the big fat leading plug hole

Interesting comments. Do u know if premixing 1/2 - 1oz 2 stroke oils will definitely help seals or just a myth? Thanks

Keep on the coolant you'll be fine I've had blown coolant seals for over a year. Still daily driving and track beaten

Sorry bro.. if it wont go into first or reverse... you're looking at a new trans.. or a rebuild. Unless... you dont use the clutch for shifting between gears at all...

Depending on what if anything it took with it a rebuild could do the trick but the only to find out if it's rebuildable is to tear into it.

Factory seals shatter into hundreds of pieces.. 95% of the time they get drug around I side the housings and leave what's called "devils nail marks". There are several videos on what happens. There are a few race apex seals out there that just bend and dont shatter. Those are highly recommended to be used on rebuilds just to save your expensive housings from being destroyed. Just saying.. ppl should look into it.

Free-piston linear generator

Ceramic seals last forever but are very delicate (extra sensitive to detonation and expensive). Aluminum/iron impregnated seals are virtually indestructable when it comes to detonation but last a very short time.

@@ngrinshift4383 Interesting comments. Do u know if premixing 1/2 - 1oz 2 stroke oils will definitely help seals or just a myth? Also if steel Apex seals are "indestructable' than why the short life? Thanks 🙏⭐

x1WARRIOR1x could be a coolant seal. Check to see if your coolant is muddy looking

This video actually helped me a lot though zack. I tested the engine and I do have a blown apex seal. Luckily though I have a 13b from a parts car to use. Thank you for your help though man I’m so glad you make rotary videos

The apex seals are on the rotors, which are completely inside the engine. in order to replace them, you must completely disassemble and rebuild the engine.

Shooting Cars I understand that part but is it that much of a hassle to replace before they decide to blow

Lucky! I paid $4,000 for my 05 it runs and drives great though

Check battery connections & alternator power. I had similar issue and fixed it because AC is affected by electrical power.

not new at all sry

HERE IS WHY IT FLOODS APEXS FAILURE WHEN IT IS IN THE PLUG HOLE

could be coolant seals? I'll have a video out next week about those

Nope, never puffed a lot of white smoke, it only puffed a little bit of smoke, which was gas because of the smell, car never burned through coolant, if you watch the vid on my channel you'll see what it was doing exactly

Sounds like maybe the AFM wasn't connected.

The rotors, housings, and irons are all at risk of being damaged when an Apex seal blows

Thanks alot, that why everyone buys aftermarket apex seals I guess stronger and don't have to worry about expensive parts breaking

@@sammyturbo786 Some aftermarket apex seals are also advertised as "softer" so if they do blow, they don't gouge the other parts

yes indeed!

You can buy a whole Rx8 for that price here in the states my guy. 😅

They wear out then they fly out (commonly when parts fly out from compressive pressure forces like a frag, people call that "blow out", similar with tires etc). Once they wear enough (or foreign material shatters it), then they can fly out of their housing and through the exhaust (hopefully it goes through the exhaust quickly without damaging anything else)

Did you ever end up finding out with the issue was?

3rd motor put in car. Bad APEX seal. Must put new oil injectors when you change the motor.

Max Goldberg, BSME just got here after a 2 hour drive and still no reply lucky small town in .CA I found it driving down the street but not going to show up since he is out of town and don't want to be disrespectful

Sounds like you're losing compression on the one housing. Possibly clogged omp orifices.. if you still have them. I recommend removing the omp and using a block off.. and, running a good premix and new spark plugs.

Dave's garage Hey man. Not an expert or anything but have done a lot of research lately: The Gen 1 RX-8s came with a weak starter from the factory that can very often cause this problem. However, this is an easy fix, as a newer high-torque starter will correct this issue. The install is easy too. Check out Driven by madness; he's got a good video on installing the new starter 👍

Thank you. Since this comment i actually fiund driven by madness and did the starter thing and it didnt help

Dave's garage Damn man I'm sorry. Have you checked the compression? Same guy (Driven by madness) has a super simple vid on that too... After that I'm just not sure man 🙁

@@danielredheffer9309 yeah im about to do that next.

Dave's garage Checked out your video for your RX-8. Does the check engine light stay on?