We are happy that we could help! 🙂

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We are glad you found it helpful!

Awesome!

Me too, I like this guy!

Great to hear! Glad you found it helpful!

Great to hear! Thank you!

You're welcome!!!

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You're welcome! Was your heating element burned out?

Yes sir

Awesome!

On the Fluke 337 it will only beep for continuity if it is 30ohms or less. Since one of your element coils is 34 ohms that will be too high for it to beep for continuity. It sounds like the element is good from what you have described.

Parts Dr awesome thank you very much for the quick reply!

@@Slambone77 You're welcome!

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They are typically not sold separately. In the few occasions that we have seen them sold separately they are usually quite expensive. From what we typically see it is usually most cost effective to replace the heating element assembly, although there are a few exceptions to this.

Wow thanks for the fast reply, such a shame i really only needed them, i found beads, rods, but not these stands/clips. Any idea how exactly they are called ? i tried lots of words and i cant find them. Thanks again.

Below is a link to one that is used on some Frigidaire model dryers. partsdr.com/part/131472100-heating-element-ceramic-insulator

Wow you were not kidding saying those are expensive Thanks for the help have a nice day and a really big thank you.

It should still work okay, but it make have a shorter life span. Make sure to find and correct your airflow problem.

It it ain't broke, don't fix it.

A black dryer heating element usually indicates the element has overheated and gotten too hot. Often times when they turn black you will also see some of the metal start to crack and warp. If you see this it is usually a good idea to replace the heating element and also address at the same time why the dryer was overheating.

You're welcome!

Perfect!

It is normal one some dual coil elements for the readings to be different. You cannot use a single coil element in place of a dual coil element.

I tapped off one wire and used single coil which works fine so far. I am not able to find the replacement part. Can you please see if you can find it? It is samsung dryer model no. DV42H5600EP/A3. Replacement part number that is required is DC47-00032A. I have put in DC47-00019A which is working now.

The dual coil element is part number PD00002235 (DC93-00154A) for your model dryer. partsdr.com/part/dc93-00154a-heating-element-assembly/

You will need to read the owners manual for your multimeter. It might be normal for yours not to display an ohm reading on the continuity setting on your meter.

The heating coil of the electric blanket should be able to be tested. You may have to test it for ohms instead of continuity.

You will need to find the common wire terminal like we show at 1:37 in the video. Then test from the common terminal to each of the separate coils on the element.

@@PartsDr my common terminal has continuity to both of the others as well

@@kareemsharonsmith9020 It sounds like the element is good from what you are describing. Make sure to check for any shorts in the element like we show in the video as well.

Blackening on the metal is normal. But if the metal is warped, cracked, or damaged then the element may be overheating and the element may need to be replaced the you will need to look into why the element is overheating.

Yes. The heating element should cycle on and off while the dryer is running to maintain the desired temperature inside the dryer. If the element stays on and never cycles off then that could indicate a problem.

Yes to get an accurate reading you need to disconnect the wires. Try wiggling the connector off with a needle nose pliers.

It should have resistance, depending on the multimeter it may beep or it might be outside of the beeping range. Example resistance values below. COM & terminal 1 = 15 - 25 Ω COM & terminal 2 = 15 - 25 Ω Terminals 1 & 2 = 30 - 50 Ω

Yes it would mean that the element is good if you tested it properly.

@@PartsDr Thanks. Found that the high limit cutoff has no continuity so replacing that part.

Most commonly, if those are good then it could be a bad main control board, bad motor, or bad power supply to the dryer (check the power at the outlet and inspect for burned or broken wires at the terminal block).

"Continuity" can be thought of as testing for a "continuous" wire with no breaks. in this case the heating element is a long wire coiled up. When you put the meter on the "continuity" setting, that means you want the meter to test that the heating element is a continuous wire, that is, it has no break in it. Testing a light bulb would be similar. The meter will pass a voltage out of the red lead of the meter, and look for that voltage to return on the black lead of the meter. if it sees the voltage coming back on the black lead, then it knows the heating element (or any circuit) has "continuity," that is, is acting like a continuous wire that can carry electricity from one input lug all the way to the other. If it sees that, then it sounds a beep so that you know there is continuity and you don't have to bother looking at the meter. In this case, continuity would mean the heating element is good. If you don't hear the beep, it means that the heating element wire is broken somewhere and therefore it's bad, it's burned out like a light bulb. If your meter doesn't have a continuity setting, not all do, then you use the "ohms" aka "resistance" setting. If a circuit has continuity, you would get a reading, sometimes zero ohms, sometimes a low number like 10 ohms, sometimes a high number depending on what kind of circuit or device you are testing, but you will get some reading. If it does not have continuity, then the meter will read "infinite resistance," meaning no continuity. There, now anyone that has read me comment knows all about the subject.

you'll need to either solder a new terminal or replace the whole element

Namey McName , make sure youre getting 220v at the heating element, if you only get 120v it wont heat. you need to measure both incoming wires to heating element you must get 110v from each one, if you dont get 220v when measuring between the 2 of them something elese is wrong

Yes, both are getting 110 volts when measured between the connector and the ground. I am waiting on one more part, and I'll write you back if I have success. But all of the heating system parts have been replaced at least once. I ordered a new heater relay to ensure a solid connection at the circuit board.

Namey McName you have to measure between both wire terminals at the element at the same time. you should get 220v between them when dryer is running LIVE TEST. Get youre multitester set it on AC and test between both terminals with the Dryer running on a heating cycle, you should get 220v . If you only get 120v ,that means youre not getting power from one leg. It wont heat if you only get 110v to the element.

pierantoni I'll test it tomorrow. Thanks.

Between the legs, a few volts. I think this is the motor centrifugal switch, since the rest has been replaced.

It should be unplugged. Yes, it matters.