Thanks for the compliment, MrNursein! Glad you're finding the videos helpful and our style effective. See you around!

You are welcome!

There's plenty of electronics on it.

Thanks Richard. My OCD did eventually take over and I moved the wire.

We love getting notes like this, Mohamed! We do what we do so we can help people like you learn to repair their own machines. Why pay for labor when you can do it yourself?? Awesome to hear that our videos have helped you become a better mechanic. As long as you keep watching, we'll keep churning out the videos....! See you around, Mohamed!

@@PartzillaParts I agree and most of the time this do not diagnose the problem fully and will try to get you to buy expensive parts such as a new ecu when it could be an $0.18 part such as a zener diode on ignition switch. Dealer tried getting me to buy a new one after diagnosing which they could not due fully to them not having a good functioning computer to test with. Was the difference between $500 plus and 5.00 and some know how and the $500 wouldn't have fixed my problem in the first place!

Excellent information. Thanks Ray!

​@@stickyourface66rectifier

You're welcome, Stepheon. Great to hear we were able to help!

I'll see if we can find one

Awesome news, Mohamed!! Glad we were able to get you back up and running.

Sounds like the stator is going bad.

Sounds like it's not throwing enough voltage.

It's a ground. Connect it to any ground...

We don't right now. We will add it to the suggestion list!

he just explained what to do and check for in the video

Possibly the rectifier or stator, I would start by testing those.

Still sounds like the battery. Sometimes it will show enough voltage but once it's under load, the voltage will drop. Do a load test to check overall battery health.

The YTZ10s is rated at 8.6amps. So new, that's where it should be.

This is common on a lot of units. LEDs draw less power and sometimes the relays don't know what to do with it. Try searching for an LED relay...I've never used them, but I heard it's an option.

That is all within range. Are you having charging issues?

it should be in the black box under the middle left fairing. Check the fuses in there, you will most likely find the fried fuse.

It will jump around a bit. It should read a fairly constant reading once it's hot. Depending on outside temp, rpms and air flow.

Not sure I understand what you're saying...there is a hole in the middle of your radiator?

Solenoid...Fuse...if those are good, test the wires all the way to the plugs and see where the power is dropping off. I'm going to guess solenoid.

Just test the rectifier. If it's good, then it doesn't need replacing. Some people choose to replace them at the same time, but it's a personal preference.

It needs to be grounded. Chassis, neg terminal, etc.

+Partzilla ok thank you, you do good instructions videos

At idle, when you test the stator wires, you should be getting right around 15 volts. If you are only getting 10.8, there is a good chance your stator is going bad.

Partzilla It “passed” all the diode/continuity test. It was driving me crazy. Did not want to change parts by guessing. Thanks a Lot, for sharing your knowledge!

At 5k it should be a little more than 13v. Test the stator and rectifier.

@@PartzillaParts thanks, I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow. Although the output voltage is lower than the Hayne Manual says it's keeping the battery charged now. The chinese stator was trash

Test your stator to confirm, but if the diodes aren't working, it's likely your rectifier.

@@PartzillaParts Yes the diode is not working. I ordered already a new one and I gonna let you know when I install it. Thanks!

You should be able to disconnect the battery while the bike is running and it will still run. If it's stalling at low idle, try adjusting your idle up a little.

Hi there I have the exact bike and it's not charging I might do this check and see what I come up with,cheers

From what I can tell, it's something in your charging system. Battery, voltage rectifier or stator. Test these components.

Hey did you get this fixed? I'm having a similiar problem with my 07 CBR.

At idle, that should be fine.

Are you testing the rectifier or the stator? Either way, that is low voltage. Might need to be replaced

@@PartzillaParts i was testing the stator. I also checked the stator between the 3 yellows when the engine is on n when i rev it i get 60 VAC at 5k rpm. I will test again the stator running with one yellow n the ground connection of the battery in DC.

Hello! Following my previous question. I disconnected the Rectifier / Regulator and the Stator cables. To test the stator i do the following, get one of the yellow cables coming from the stator and connect the red led from the multimeter, then take the black led from the multimeter and connect it to the ground in the battery. Then i put the multimeter in VAC. I get a read of 8 volts when the bike is cold at 1.5k rpm / 4 volts when the bike is warm at 1k rpm. This is not even close to what you get on your video in minute 10:25 which is 15 volts VAC. I also did the resistance check and ground check on the stator and it was correct. So i guess the stator is not in the best shape as I bought the bike as second hand with 33k km so maybe it is time to change the stator. I guess i can open the stator and see what the status is and check if there are any burn parts. Anyhow what it is blowing my mind is that when i run the bike with everything connected i see the battery charging at 14.5V with DC. The battery goes flat the day after i drive it for 60km. Thanks for all your help and time!

Julian, sounds like you just need a new battery. If your stator was going bad, once you jump the bike, it wouldn't run properly. Start with a fresh battery and see how it goes. If you still have issues, you can start running tests on your charging system. Always start with the simplest answer first.

it can be more than just your batt..i got new batt..stator putting correct AC volts and batt still not being charged..after my tender gets batt above 12v it will start fine..and run fine..the second you turn it off it wont crank back..and lately after iv been riding for 15 min it will die while running..and then shows 8-11volts on battery..im guessing not enough juice to run fuel pump

Load test your battery to be safe, but that sounds like a relay or fuse blew.

Start with the R/R. Did you ohm test the stator? And yes, a faulty R/R will eventually kill a battery over time. If your battery is new, you should be ok once you change the out the R/R.

Partzilla thanks, I did ohm test the stator and it came out fine. So I figure hopefully just the R/R will get me going again.

12v. You can leave it in the bike.

@@PartzillaParts thank you!

If you follow the steps in the video, you will be able to tell what's causing the issue. The process is the same for most metric motorcycle charging systems. It will help narrow down whether the stator or rectifier is giving you trouble.

I'm a big fan of your videos and I have a Honda CBR F4i in my F1 light be blinking to the point that my bike is running High

Test each component, something isn't allowing voltage increase with higher RPMS.

Test your stator and regulator individually.

Hello Danny. Do you know why the wires were burning? They do get hot, but not so hot that you cant touch it.

Partzilla not sure, maybe something was giving it to much power

Could have been a malfunction with the regulator that torched the wires. Could have been just a short that melted it all together. Inspect the surrounding area and make sure nothing else is damaged.

@@PartzillaParts thank you for your help, lucky that nothing else was damaged, but i decided to change volaje regulator and stator, i just order the stator cover gasket and i will do everything by my self; im going change the battery as well, the battery was new ( only a month old ) but was a cheaper one ( 70 buks ) so i getting now a good battery, do i have to use a torque wrench to tight the stator cover or i should do it normal, i mean tight the screws around the cover by eye? sorry for my english

I would start with your Speedo sensor. #11 on the diagram. www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2008/cbr600rr-a/crankcase

Partzilla ... thank you very much...

Have you tested your regulator?

Partzilla. I installed an aftermarket regulator and it worked fine for a couple of days. I haven't tested the new one. I tested the old one and passed.

Well, there is a disconnect somewhere. If you get 18v at the stator, where does that power drop out? Regulator? Battery? lines inbetween?

I took it to the shop and the problem was the new R/R. Now is working perfect.

The battery could still be dead. You would need to load test it to confirm.

Partzilla thanks for your advice, sorry for the delay on coming back to you. kind regards from the UK

When you installed all the components, did you verify voltage by testing them? Worth a double check.

Partzilla yes I did. It said my battery was charging. I had 13.3 volts. Maybe a parasitic draw somewhere?

I meant, did you test the rectifier and stator independently.

Regulators like to go out on Hondas. If you do the tests, you can narrow it down.

Hi Danny! Sometimes you need to be careful replacing parts trying to solve an issue. An existing problem on one part of a circuit can damage a brand new part somewhere else down the line. If you replaced the stator, regulator, and battery with OEM parts all at the same time and still had an issue, you need to check two major things. First make sure the grounding point near the Regulator is tight and no wires are broken. Look for a cluster of green wires grounded to the frame. Second, verify continuity point to point on each wire on the harness especially the positive and negative going from the regulator to the battery. Third, make sure you buy all your parts from Partzilla.com from now on. Ok, the last one is optional, but comes highly recommended ... :)

Thank you, I checked the wiring once again and found the problem. The connector from the stator to the wire harness started to burn and fuse two of the wires together. Guess that means it was over charging? But I also looked over everything else and it seems fine no exposed wiring and locked down tight all that is left to do is order a new stator from Partzilla.com :)

It should give the same readings providing that the regulator rectifier has not been damaged. I test with it disconnected because of that possibility.

Partzilla when i measure ac voltage betwrrn stator wires when disconnected it gives around 18vac and something like 60vac when revving. but when i connect it to the regulator it gives more like 10vac in idle and drops down to 3vac when revving. the battery is 14.5vdc in idle and also when revving. i gues everything is ok?

Seems like it's charging normal. Are you having charging issues or just testing the system because you want to?

Partzilla had problems with charging system both regulator and battery were damaged. now it seems to work fine but had lots of time invested before i found the problems. both regulator and battery were not more than 1 year old. cbr 600f3 the regulator gets too hot

The regulator is a common problem with those bikes. When charging systems on the CBR get weird, it's usually the problem. Good to test all of it when there is an issue though.

Hello Mohamed. How high is the voltage running with the high beams on?

Partzilla Hello dear friend with high beams it reached up to 15.7

i would start by checking the voltage regulator.

Partzilla my stator reads at .5 is that okay

Sounds like you are on the right track, Ian. You can do a diode test to confirm that one or more of the legs will show a short to ground. I would replace both this go around.

Many thanks