Yep, same goes for belt drives. Seen lots on the dealers floor with belts sooo tight strung like piano strings.

All good points, Brandon! As you can see from the video, ours tightened a bit when we cranked down the axle nut. Looking back, it would have been a good comment to throw in there. Thanks for watching and giving some input!

Glad to add input! You guys have a good setup there - well done!

You don't need to be an expert to see that is way overtight.

Our pleasure, Jorge! Thanks for watching.

Same bro did a chain adjustment changed all my breaks by myself

Yeah it will be like a steel bar after sitting on it

Wrong! He compensated for that by measuring 1inch and 3/8ths. Considering the recommended measurement is 1inch. So to measure an extra 3/8ths, takes care of that. So you and the 21 idiots who liked your comment should probably go back to school and brush up on your math.

​@@grownman1017 It will probably be alright but is a good idea to have the rider sit on it and then check it. It may need more or less in either direction. Why have extra slop in the chain if you don't need it

Nope that looks perfect.

Lol why would the manual tell you 1 3/8 🤣

Glad we could help, Brandon! If only we could make a video explaining step by step how to have patience when putting your machine back together... bet there are a few mechanics out there that could use that video. Thanks for watching!

The weight of the bike is still on the swing arm. It would be in the same spot if the wheel was touching the ground

It would not be the same.. than most of the weight is on the stand..and the slack is around 5mm more

Source??

The 2008 600rr service manual and it says to put it on its side stand. Having the bike on a paddock stand is the same as having it on a side stand because the swingarm is taking all of the weight , as it would if it was on the ground.

Your intention is good, but the bike weight on the spool is the same as if the tire was on the ground.

Thanks, John! Glad we could help.

Yeah. He did it wrong. At the very least he should check it on the side stand not in the air.

Glad we could help, Nurg! Thanks for watching

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks, Xaviie! Happy we could help you get it done!

Thanks SnewJ!

Sup snewj

Glad it worked for you, Szudani! Thanks for watching

They're either. They're so smart. You're doing wrong. I'm not a motorcycle know-it-all, but I'm a spelling professor compared to you. 🏍

Haha! Right on, Louie. Couldn't have said it better myself.

Thanks -- and thanks for the sub, Dferd! Glad you're liking the videos!

Thanks DesertFZ1! Glad you liked it

John's using his wrench karate skills. *KA POW!*

Thanks, Shooter! Glad we could help. And thanks for the sub!

If you watch it closely, it was a verbal correction. Both sides were adjusted to the 6th mark. That being said, if we get something wrong, by all means, leave a comment. Not saying we won't make an occasional mistake, but we have a pretty good track record. :D

Thanks, Maldonado!

Tight spots happen, but it's not a constant concern. Especially if you clean and lube your chain on a regular basis.

Especially not concerned when considered. Thanks!

If it's on a rear stand, it still has some load on it. It's held up by the swingarm.

Thank You!

Hello Robin, I Lube mine about every 300 miles, then i will clean and lube every 600 miles.

Hi Robert! Well, you've got one thing right -- motorcycle riding is very addictive. If you feel like you need to get on a motorcycle, no better time than the present! As long as you're safe about it, what do you have to lose? Some good basic advice for your first ride: 1) TAKE A RIDER COURSE: As much as your cool guy motorcycle friends will try to tell you to skip the MSF new rider course, if you really have never been on a bike educating yourself on how to ride is the best place to start. It's not always intuitive and you put yourself and others in danger when you hop on a bike before you're ready. 2) PICK THE RIGHT BIKE: Don't bite off more than you can chew bike-wise. I'm talking both rpm and weight wise. You need to be able to hold the bike up when you come to a complete stop; you also don't want to find yourself with a fist full of throttle you're not ready for... Start with something moderate in the 200cc range. A Kawasaki Ninja, for example. 3) CHECK OUT THE BIKE BEFORE YOU GET ON: It's always a good idea to check the chain tension, the brakes, and the tire pressure before you get on. I'm not talking take the bike apart, just a visual inspection, a kick, and a tug will tell you if it's safe or not. Don't know -- ask a friend. Or find out what you need to know on KZfaq. ;) Happy riding!! We wish you hours of motorcycle obsession.

I appreciate it very much I have did so much research I know the basic down to a teeth all I need is a start I want to buy a dirt bike or sport quad because I live in new Orleans and the bike life here is the life right now thanks.

+Robert Weston Don't think, just go and try it! You can always give up ridding, or change bike for quad or UTV or 4x4 truck if you want same adventure but be safer. But start with NOT powerful bike and buy proper protective gear. I started when I was 29. My uncle bought Chinese 150cc. I rode it, liked it bought the same. Then kept upgrading each year.

I generally measure to the rivets. As long as you're consistent and measure from the same place everytime, you should be fine.

We don't have any experience with that bike specifically. Normally, a chain will loosen with use rather than tighten up. Best guess, double check all your adjustments and locknuts. If everything looks good, but it still tightens the chain when riding, it may be worth taking to a shop for a quick inspection.

We will add it to the list!

But, the video will be more cool on cbr600rr. kkkk Tks!

Not very, they are more of a guide than a precise measurement, I have a laser tool that allows me to check that the wheel is 100% straight, definitely advise investing in one, they are relatively inexpensive and allow you to adjust with total accuracy.

Again I keep it aligned accurately with both the adjustment plates and a laser tool, but my chain always ends up getting more loose, according to my knowledge, I'm getting the best recommended heavy duty chain and sprocket sets, is it bad parts or could this be something more complex causing it?

On this bike, once you pass the green area, it's time to replace. Some bikes don't even have that, so once you run out of room to adjust, replace.

it's the amount of slack in the chain, up and down.

Different manufacturers have different specs. They are all similar on the sportbikes.

What year model do you have? There are typically hash marks to align your wheel. Once you get towards the end of your adjustment capabilities, it's time to swap out the chain and dial it all back in.

Confirm that the new chain has the proper amount of links as the OEM.

Depends on the unit. There are some that have a center notch on the plate and others just use the outside edge. It varies. Your owners manual should give you the proper notation.

can you link the tool?

www.amazon.com/Luster-Care-Laser-Alignment-Products/dp/B01LRJ6XQ2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1475969552&sr=8-5&keywords=CAT+laser+alignment+tool

CAT laser alignment tool, they are made in Germany.

It's not advised. You want the bike to be upright if you are adjusting the axle in any way. You could always have a friend hold it up while you do the work in a pinch. We have found that providing cold beverages makes them more willing to help. When you're able, pick up a swingarm stand, they aren't too expensive and it will be a lot easier.

MMI is really the only good option I'm aware of.

Partzilla gotcha! Thanks brothaman, i appreciate it. Do you think having a shop that maintenances and fixes small engines in FL is a good business?

Lots of small engines in FL, with all the bikes, scooters, golf carts and marine engines! Follow your dreams, John!

They should match. You can measure from a fixed point on both sides to confirm they are accurate.

Charly, you are correct, the chain ended up too tight. Once the axle nut was tightened down, it slid the wheel back a little. We should have made mention of it for the video. Good to see people paying attention enough to catch it! As for the rest, we did use chain cleaner, used water to wash off the excess cleaner, then lubed the chain. If you are careful, you don't have to cover the tire for overspray. Your first ride will spray excess all over that sidewall and the rim anyway. The tread shouldn't be affected.

It's on the list! Thanks for tuning in.

You can get it done without a rear stand. The only problem is, you need the bike to be upright, not on the kickstand. You can hire a buddy hold the bike up while you do it...We have found that cold beverages are pretty good payment.