Hi Bill. Ran my dryer for a few hours yesterday and noticed we had no heat. My husband arrived home from working out of town to a frustrated wife. I would like to thank you for.. first of all... very clear and easy to see video... then for the straight forward instructions. You literally made it that a child could follow the directions. We're off to town to buy a new element. Thanks to your troubleshooting info we got down to the element... took it apart and found a broken coil. You saved us a bundle. We live out in no mans land and the service fee is more than the dryer. Thank you so much. PS I checked your videos and didn`t see instructions on how to remove and take apart the heater and element. Had to go to another video source for that... I got the gist of it but man the video was of poor quality... bouncing all over.

As an electrical engineer and maintenance technician this is the BEST video repair ever - you are the BEST . Now off to use your fantastic work and get the drier working - well done and THANKS

This video worked like a dream. I am a petite 62 year old woman who followed it and was able to fix my dryer for the cost of the part about $30.00. Thank you Repair Clinic.

So easy for this most common issue with Samsung dryers! Searched other sites and wasted some time then found this and answered all pertinent questions, I like how you didn't make us watch the turning of every little screw that needs to be removed to access the element ;-) pertinent info much appreciated!

Very well made video. Thank you so much! I've got about 4 pages of notes on your 3 videos for checking the power, dis-assembly, and troubleshooting, and going to see if I can figure out why the dryer is not heating. Great info!

Thanks for the help. I tried the trouble shooting, but jamming the probes into the power cubes was tough. In the end, it was the element and watching your video gave me the confidence to do it myself. Thanks again.

I never comment on videos but I have to say thank you. I disassembled it with your other video and just tested each component exactly as you did. Everything was exactly the same until I tested the high limit thermostat and I got nothing. I ordered one for $5 and it fixed it. Thank you for making this video. You saved me 100’s of dollars.

Hey Bill, I wanted to stop and give you a big thank you. I was able to locate the issue with my dryer, replace the troubled fuse as well as the thermostat. For a $8.00 I fixed my dryer, for an additional $20 I replaced the thermostat while I was in there. One thing I would recommend your viewers is to have a vacuum cleaner close by. There was a ton of Lint on the inside of mine so I cleaned everything up quite well. Anywho, thanks again Bill for the information. It took me longer to get to the parts store and back than it did to locate the problem and to fix it.

Thanks Bill. Magic. Using your approach here and your disassembly video, I was able to diagnose a malfunctioning element. I was pleased to see the broken element coil when I removed it confirming I was on the right track. Ordered it for $36 on Amazon and had it back together and working the next day. Very much appreciated... Derek in Toronto

Thanks Bill, I just used both videos to troubleshoot and replace the heating element in my Samsung dryer. Your videos were most helpful...six years later. My dryer isn't even that old.

Thanks, Bill, your instructions on how to test for a working heater relay were incredibly helpful. Was hoping you'd have additional insight into my dryer not heating, even after replacing all of the related components (even the ones that passed continuity tests) Context: Dryer stopped heating after replacing tensioner/idler pully arm assembly after the wheel failed. Reseated the belt and dryer ran beautifully again, except it was not putting out any heat. Steps taken: - Tested voltage at outlet (246V) - Continuity check on heating element and related component - Ran dryer with vent hose disconnected - Replaced all heating-related components in phases (1. thermal fuse & thermostat on heating element housing, 2. other thermal fuse and thermistor, 3. heating element) and tested dryer after each phase - Rechecked all related and accessible wiring connections were secure - Did your test on heater relay, blue wire to ground went from 0V not running to 120V while running So it seems 120V are going to heating element when dryer is running and all components pass continuity test AND have been replaced anyway (including heating element). Yet, still no heat! Any ideas on additional troubleshooting and/or solutions would be appreciated.

Great freakin' Video! We need more like this on youtube! I'm a technical person who can do the process but this helped me through the process quickly and knowing what to check. Got all the way through. Open circuit on the element, look inside and it's broken. I just put a $200 motor in this dryer 2 months ago. Now this. Thanks for the help man!

Hey Bill, thank you for this very useful video. I have spared 160CAD$ + Tax and 3 weeks minimum wait. I ended up spending about 70$ by replacing just he heater box elements. - The Mobo relay test was a great saving feature. - You ROCK!

Good instructions, clear and precise on what to look at and where faults can be causing a no heat situation. Upon disassembly of the dryer front panel to access the testing of the units element, high limit and such the light switch on top of the door plug would not come undone. Finally it gave way and sent me to the ER and 5 stitches in my left thumb. My dryer without heat was tested to show that the thermal cut off needs to be replaced. Sadly on Friday night when I sliced my finger I assumed it was the element and that arrived.... +2 more days without dryer.

You make great videos with good content. Just getting started in appliance repair and you've been my go to for info. Thanks.

Awesome videos Bill. Just replaced the heating element and belt. Awesome instructions!

Thank you for this video! I was able to diagnose that I had a bad heating element in the dryer. Again, thank you. Now I get to fix it and put the damn thing back together!

Thanks for the great video, saved me a lot of spurious amazon purchases, and got me to test what needed to be tested. Element had a hairline crack, could not see it. Thanks!

Great video. Just fixed my 13 year old dryer heating element. Wouldn’t have been able to do it without these videos of yours. Thanks!

just used this vid to diagnose my dryer............it was the heating coils. Ordered from Amazon and they will be here Monday. Thank you!

Hey bill! Big fan of your videos! You may have already realized this about testing the relay on the board. A really important detail for testing that relay is to make sure that one of the leads on the element are disconnected. The reason being is that you will have voltage coming from the motor back up to that relay which will give you a false reading. Not trying to be a critic. Love your videos. I’ve had other technicians watch them as a way of training.

Super helpful video, was able to follow it and trace the problem down to a bad thermal cut-off. I am appreciative you took the time to make such an excellent step-by-step guide.

Thank so much Sir, for taking the time to pass on these testing tips. I will be able to help my brother and sister in law repair their dryer. Now they won't need to hang up wet clothes to dry!

thank you so much i find it extremely helpful to have other techs making video's!! much appriciated could you make a video on the centrifugal switch and how to test that?

This is a great video. Helped me fix my dryer by learning it was the heating element! Saved me a bunch of money and headaches

It's 10:30 pm on a Thursday night and my wife emerges from the laundry room saying, "Umm, the dryer is not drying the clothes. Can you take a look?" Since I had to work all day Friday and it was the start of a 3 day weekend, I knew I had to diagnose the problem that night and get the part on Friday. Your video saved the day! I dismantled that Samsung dryer and diagnosed a bad heating element. Luckily a local parts supplier - Ideal Appliance Parts in New Orleans, LA had the part in stock!Thank you, sir!

Very helpful, thank you for posting

Thank you for thoroughly diagnosing the dryer. I found my High was not continuous!

Did all this and everything checked out good. Cleaned thoroughly and I suppose lint was blocking a sensor? Not sure what I did but it is working great 👍. Changed out belt and idler pulley.

Bill thanks a bunch for making this video!! You saved me a lot of money and taught me a couple things in the process. Heating element replaced and back up and running. Do you have a video that shows how to trouble shoot when the dryer sensor doesn't work properly?

Great video. The other videos I watched had people gutting their machine to to trouble shoot a no heat problem. Mine was the relay. saved me a lot of trouble.

Great thank you for uploading

I found the solution to my My Samsung dryer DV330!!! It was simpler than I thought :-) kept blowing the high limit thermostat. I replaced the high limit thermostat (manually reset it as many times as I could first), thermo cut-off fuse, heating element, cycling thermostat, AND the thermistor. They all had continuity but I replaced them anyway, and the thermister was reading the correct ohms when I did resistance test at room temp. I also cleaned the heck out of the dryer hose, filter, and blower wheel pipe to make sure air flow was good. I even ran it with no dryer hose but was still over heating. I checked the relay switch on the main control board and confirmed it was operating correctly. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why it kept over heating and tripping the high limit thermostat. Eventually I bypassed the thermostat with the higher temperature thermo fuse and ran the dryer at 10 minute intervals, but then I figured out the root of the problem! It was the blower seal and the seal on the dryer filter cover. The foam gasket had become so depressed, that gaps in the seal allowed the blower to suck in cooler air from out side the dryer drum. This meant that the air running past the cycling thermostat and the thermister was cooler than it actually was within the drum. SOLUTION: I thickened the seal of the blower wheel and dryer filter cover with electrical tape and covered the gaps with electrical tape, this ensured the blower wheel was sucking in 100% of the hot air thru the dryer filter, and none of the cooler air outside of the dryer drum. After doing this, to my surprise the heating element was cycling on and off in like 2 minute intervals like it should, no more over heating and tripping the high-limit thermostat!! Before I corrected the seal, the heating element would never turn off, it would stay on for like 8 minutes and then blow the thermostate. Not anymore!!

Great video! This helped me element the heating element is bad in my dryer. Thanks!

Thank you Bill!

Great video to troubleshoot your Samsung dryer. In my case the problem was the heating element, which I suspect is the high runner fault. You'll need to watch other KZfaq videos to get instruction on how to disassemble/reassemble the dryer, and how to remove/reinstall the heating element. The last part is a little tricky, and I advise wearing gloves to do so because the heating element case has sharp edges. Kudos to Bill Newberry.

Thanks for the solid and clear advice. Found the problem and fixed it with a $5 part in less than an hour.

Samsung DV395 stopped heating -all fuses, heating element, thermistor, relay checked out. Found wiring harness was in contact with drum, which resulted in insulation wearing off and significant arc between the two. Samsung instructed me to pound sand - which really doesn't help to dry clothes. I am guessing the board has an issue - any useful thoughts?

Great video and thanks for saving me money.

Bill, you have saved me twice with the band and heating element troubleshooting. Thank you so much. Very valuable info.

Thanks for the very helpful video. I have an issue that my red wire to the heating element burns the wire off the connector about every 4-6 months and I am constantly repairing it. I have mad sure to use the high heat connectors. Can you think of any reason this keeps happening? Thanks for any help you can offer.

Great video. Followed steps and found thermister was fried. Ordered on Amazon and it worked like magic. I think insted of checking the Ohms resistance of all 3 parts, just checking if it's not fried that's 0 ohms ( No beep) should be enough , right?. Mine was not beeping on multi meter. So means its faulty. Thanks once again.

When checking the "no heat but motor running " you do need to check both wires for individual voltage. This is the first test you do after UNPLUGGING your input electrical cable from the wall outlet. Disconnect the blue wire from the relay being careful it is not contacting any metal surface. When you plug back into the wall it may be "live" and if it touches you or a metal conductive surface you will have the potential for an electrical discharge; enough so that you could be killed so unless you feel comfortable about your abilities stop here. When the dryer is off but plugged back in you should have 120V on the black wire terminal at the relay and 0V on the unplugged blue wire. When the dryer is energized like in the video (and on one of the heat settings) you should show 120V on each wire (blue wire is still disconnected so be extremely careful not to touch it by hand or ground it). If you have 120V on each wire while test running this indicates that the "heating" circuit is working correctly. If you have no (or less than 120V) voltage on the blue wire then test your element and other sensors for the faulty piece. There really isn't a need to test the relay because if you have 120V individual voltage on each wire you know that the relay is not connecting the 2 wires to complete the circuit. This would indicate another problem.

Great Guy, Great Video. Saved me tons of time and Hundreds of $$$$$$.Thank you!!!!!!!

pulled one and fixed it with your help thanks

Great video. Thanks!

Thanks so much

Thanks Bill!

Hey Bill, Video was very informative. The only problem I got is my thermal cut off is showing 75.0 ohms. Does that mean it needs to get replaced?

Thanks for the video buddy you helped me fix mine

Hey bill i have a dumb question the thermo cut off on this front loads is the same as the thermo fuse on the old ones i assume it is but you know .......

in order to get the service code is there a certain sequence of buttons to push on the control panel?

Do you have any of finding out the value or the color codes for the R53 and R57 resistors at the edge of the board behind the relay? My relay was smoked and so are those resistors!

thanks...

thank you so much for your videos!!! I just fixed mines thanks to you thank you!!!🤗🤗🤗👍👍👍

on the heating element which one is likely to blow, the thermo cutoff.. or thermistor ?

Great video. I am now stumped. Dryer runs fine, no error codes but doesn't heat. Checked everything you described and all checks out fine. Both thermal fuses intact, thermistor resistance OK, high limit OK, heating element OK. Where to next? thanks. joe

Hi Bill, Great video. I have a questions though. My Samsung dryer keeps tripping the circuit breaker @ Normal Run 5 - 10 min (High heat), Air Dry (no heat) 15 - 20 min. There is an "Electrical burning smell" when it trips breaker but nothing inside the dryer looks burnt. A new circuit breaker has been installed and the dryer is 5 years old. Please advise.

Thank you! GREAT VIDEO, this is exactly why I love youtube.

I have a Samsung Dryer model dv395etpawr/a1 and just did all these test after I had bought a new heating element assembly assuming it was the heating element. But to my suprise everything checked out just like your video and I still have a dryer that doesnt heat. Its been cleaned of lint etc.. Any suggestions to what it might be.

Thanks.

@Bill Newberry when I'm checking the power coming in, I'm not getting anything on the blue wire or the black wire, but the dryer will run, and the power is checking out at 120/240 on the terminal blocks for the power cord. Am I doing something wrong here?

Does the layout of the wiring harness on the heating element stay the same for all Samsung dryers? I've seen a couple different layouts.

Excellent instructions! I followed the procedures until I got to the heating element which was faulty. The entire assembly cost less than the element alone. Thanks!

DV45H7000EW/A2 is the model i have i have gone through all the steps change high limit both thermostat the thermistor and the heating element i still get no heat and when i run the smart install test i get HE code could it be the main board

Hey Bill great videos, I've started through them all when my dryer (Samsung DV7000 just over 1 yr old) stopped heating. I think I've been through all the trouble shooting, but I can't seem to find the problem: Venting/exhaust free from excess lint, proper voltage from cord, proper voltage through motor and heater relays, correct resistance on the three fuzes on the heating element (Thermostat 3, Thermostat2, Heater) and correct resistance on Thermistor and Thermostat1 (near the motor). Any other ideas what may be preventing my dryer from heating?

Thanks for your videos!! Very helpful! You helped me fix my dryer and saved me money!

Help! ANYONE, i have this exact dryer and the middle thermostat reads 43 ohms and the thermal cutoff reads open loop so are both bad??? and need to be replaced?

Nice

I am getting 85 Volts on the other side of the relay, should I replace the whole board?

Found the problem at 0:23. Thank u

If you order a replacement heater on Amazon, read the reviews carefully. Some are jUNK, fail early. The one I bought did not last 8 months. 36% gave an Amazon part 1 star.

Hello sir. I have been following your troubleshooting with a Samsung dryer that is operating, but not producing heat. I have tested the relay (around 1:05 in your video), and I am getting around 118-119.5 volts). I am currently testing the thermistor resistance from the black harness (around 3:05 in your video), and I am not getting a reading whatsoever. Before I start testing the other parts would you recommend me replacing the thermistor at this time and retest?

I have no power coming out of the relay to the heating element can u replace just the relay or do you have to replace the whole module

so if i’m reading ok on the first heating element the heating element is bad?

Hello, I have Samsung Dryer Model DV419AEW XAA. It stopped heating a few months ago. I took the unit apart and found a broken Heating element. Got a replacement from Sears and installed. Heating problem solved. Now that was in August, Now Middle of October and have the same problem. This time bought 2 elements and took the system apart again. This time heating element seems fine. Replaced it anyway. Checked all the ohms on Element at 9.7, Thermostat High Limit = .2 and Thermal Cutoff =.2. Also Checked the Voltage on relay = 120 on Black not running but on, Blue Non, but when Turned on 120 on Blue and Black. I'm out of ideas. Any good suggestions would be appreciated

great vid!!! I was wondering if you could give a good pic of the wiring on the heating element assembly?

I am getting a reading of 0.00 ohms for the high limit and the thermal cutoff and no reading from my heater. I assume that means the heater is bad. Correct?

Can I apply this to the samsung dv210aew/xaa?

Hi Bill, my dryer Samsung DV45H63000EG/A3 has a double heating element, I tested the elements, thermostat and they are good. The only thing I missed checking was the Relay. The process to check should be the same as you explained, correct?

I have a Samsung dryer model number DV203AEW. I got it free from someone cause even after replacing the element, still no heat. I tested all, thermistor, hi-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off and heater relay. With the dryer plug-in, not turned on, I get 120 volts from the blue wire to ground and 120 volts from the black wire to ground. I get the same when dryer turned on. Can you please give me some ideas to what might be the problem? It blows cold air...:-(

You sir, have saved me a nice chunk of change. After using your test method I determined the heating element was bad. I pulled it and the heating coil was broke in the middle. Thank you very much!

Bill:Thank you for the wonderful video. My display did not show any error code on it. After taking the dryer apart. The element is reading 10 kilo-ohms, thermostat has continuity but the cutoff has no continuity. I ordered the part for the cutoff and put the new one on and it heat up for a minute and after that there is no more heat to it. What else is the problem? Everything is the same except the cutoff is broken. Looking forward to your reply.

@billnewberry Thank you! Got it done today based a lot on your video!! Cheers

Hi Bill, if the multimeter detect 120V at the black wire connected to the heater relay but not the blue wire. So it means my heater relay has problem?

Hi I was wondering what else might cause it not to heat...everthing else checks out good....

Hi Bill Great video. I think you're missing one critical part of the diagnostics which is to test Thermistor and High-limit Thermostat parts that are attached to blower unit. Can you please also include how to test "Thermistor" and "High limit Thermostats" in this video and repost it? As far as I know if the Thermistor or High limit thermostat do not function well then the main control board would not receive the proper commands to switch on or off the heating element. Please note in a dryer there are 2 places where the thermistor and high limit thermostats are connected. One at the heating element unit and rest of the 2 are at the blower unit. I think it is better an expert like you give us an idea how to test those 2 parts attached to blower unit

dang good video

You don’t have to remove all those parts to access the heating element and thermostat. After removing the dryer front, Just remove the bracket holding the heating element assembly and the whole thing is accessible

Hi there, When I test the thermistor blue and red wire at the control board it reads about 19, but only long enough for me to read it, then it drops to 0L. Any thoughts?

Well Bill, Thanks for this info. However on my Kenmore (Samsung) Dryer, there is one other possible reason why you don't get heat. While one side of the AC line (Line 1) gets switched by the relay on the control board, the other side of the line gets switched by a centrifugal switch on the motor itself (this is a safety feature: no motor, no heat, no fire). In my case I found an extremely corroded connection on the bottom terminal of the centrifugal switch connector. I ended up having to modify the connector itself so I could terminate the switched Line 2 separately. Not sure you can buy the harness from a parts supplier???

Hi Bill, I have a Samsung dryer. It stopped spinning and no heat. All the screen light up. When I press the start button I hear a click sound around the control board. I did check the belt and is good.

Is there a way to trouble shoot or narrow down the cause without completely dismantling the dryer?

So many other videos teach parts removal and replacement. You provide info to execute diagnostics.

HI Ihave washer dryer Samsung mashine , if machine is dryer and hod bur loundry not good dryed ... Where there may be a problem ?

Thanks! This was helpful

Hello! I have a samsung dryer I have replaced the heating element and all the sensors but my machine runs for 15 seconds and stops, any ideas what else it could be? Thank you.

All the smaller relays were on back order, but the complete heating unit was available, So while the dryer was apart I just replaced the whole thing, found that I did not have to remove drum, Must have been designed so that if at final production, if a faulty part was installed it could be easily switched out. 1.5 hrs, left the unit stacked, as it is parked in a crappy to work on spot. thanks for the video. help me see what I was getting into

I had to switch to a 4 prong. I notice there was a green wire already from the dryer. I didn’t ground the green wire since the dryer already had a ground. My dryer isn’t heating up. Can it be because I didn’t ground the wire or it wouldn’t make a difference?

Thanks so much. Part on order and hoping to get a few more years out of this 20 year old samsung