We are going to do our best!

Our pleasure!

Yes, and luckily we have them on the site. Link in the description!

Thanks for your business!!!

Thanks Ron! I'm just an overgrown kid playing with trucks!😂

Thank you. Sorry we can't be of more help on the ranger.

Based on my experience with other Fords, the battery bulb is "part of the circuit" so to say. It has a very small amount of power going through it all the time and as such, the LED will be always in, even if dimmer, because it takes such a small amount of power to run an LED. It "turns on" when the vehicle voltage drops because of wizardry making that circuit go the opposite direction - low voltage on the vehicle end, ups the voltage through that particular circuit (enough to make a little bulb brighter) and let you know of a problem. - to the best of my knowledge.

Agree with Leddemo. Also, I have had issues with using a led on the "airbag" light on the instrument cluster. It was on a 99 f150, always glowed dim. I have learned just to replace the backlight lamps to avoid any issues with battery,air bag or abs warning lights. Using led in turn signal indicators can get VERY bright lol. But to each their own.

Thanks Man! That sounds like the gauge itself could have an issue I have the same issue with a voltage gauge. You can try and remove the gauge and try cleaning around the needle shaft or see if the face of the gauge might be rubbing on it

Correct.

If you change the battery light to LED the circuit doesn't have enough load and the alternator wont charge.

Replace abs and battery lights back to standard bulbs not led

Original to the truck

The woodgrain bezel and trim was a Roll-A-Long conversion add on. Chances are you're only going to find one at a chop shop or ebay. Finding OEM trim is the same. We do however have a great option for dash trim on the site. Billet Dash Trim. Find it here: cpaddict.com/billet-dash-trim-1992-1997.html

@@CompletePerformance thank you for the fast response. I’ll give it a look see. Best of wishes for your builds to come.

For a gas truck you just need the tach section and its plug and play

Charge Circuit will not operate and therefore your battery won't charge

That one is in the works very soon.

If that whole area is broke out then this isnt going to work out of the box. If you can glue in or repair that mount then you could use the bracket

Not that we know of sorry.

Could be the P-SOM, reverse side of the speedometer, search P-SOM repair yeah, good luck

Currently that is the only option

The headlight switch is also a dash backlight dimmer. Twist it to adjust dash backlight brightness. Otherwise I've seen those switches wear out and get "stuck" on a lower brightness setting.

you will need to send that to OBS interiors

Just refinish it

They are not 194s they are smaller bulb

Unfortunately, in order to achieve the “blue” LED look, it not simple as just replacing the bulbs. You need to scrape off the green “film” on the backside of each and every gauge that has it. Look up some videos about it.

@@parkerwhite6 I've seen the blue led lights installed without the tint scraped off. Still looks good n the difference is barely noticeable. Though if they make a kit, just include in the instructions or descriptions the tint should be scraped off when using blue led lights.

Sorry we do not currently

what kind of no power?

Check your exciter wire on the alternator, it's the single wire that plugs in the top. Common issue on the OBS trucks, that plug gets loose and doesn't make good contact.

@@kerrydick7256 The only two plugs that I have on the alternator is the three wire plug that goes into a plastic clip which I have replaced with a new one. Then the single one your talking about which does have some play to it which is what I was suspicious about. But then I had the truck running when I was messing around with the ignition plug connector the two wires on top those were both loose when I was moving them around then the truck stalled out completely. I bought a new connector. I have three wire's on the new connector and looking on the truck I have two wires that went into a plastic clip connector then on the left hand side at the bottom of the ignition coil bracket that the coil is attached to there's a wire coming out from there that also goes into a plastic clip with another clip on the other side of the wire if this makes sense. From there it's then spliced into one of the wires that goes to the ignition coil. I was looking at wiring diagrams on google in my Chilton manual and videos on KZfaq with no luck of finding anything. I have a 96 ford f150 if you could take some pictures of your ignition coil and the wires that are on your ignition coil and the one I mentioned on the bottom of the bracket you could send them to my email levitt850@gmail.com..

@@saleenmustang9793 what engine do you have? I'll see what I can come up with👌 That clip on your coil will stall the engine, it is the power supply and ground to the coil so if it's loose it will cause the engine to stall.

@@kerrydick7256 I have a 96 f150 with the 4.9 straight six. If you have a email I could send you pictures. Probably be more helpful so you can see what I am talking about. I don't think it's the ground if that's what that wire is for on the bottom of the bracket on the ignition coil. The wires that I was messing were the two on top of the coil that went into the clip that you would snap it into. As soon as I was messed with those two wire you could hear feedback from the engine, you could stall the engine with messing with them just right. Someone has definitely been in there rigging it around. I'll have to look at the colors on the two wires probably be helpful then going in blind.

Probably the GEM module in that new of a truck.

@Complete Performance thanks for the help 🙏 so much .

cpaddict.com/glove-box-repair-bracket.html

You tube

Have you replaced the bulbs?

@Complete Performance haha, yes I have. The owner before added a different gauge face that was wired in incorrect. I have since removed all that crap and figured out the wiring and got them to work. Also removed the led batter light bulb you guys recommend in a video. Didn't know it would interfere with something. Thanks for the great videos.

We have a fix for that on the site. We'll try and get a video of doing the fix. cpaddict.com/ash-tray-guide-1992-1997.html

Either bad wiring or bad bulbs

Your alternator won't charge if you do.

Alternator won't charge.

If you ever need advice, give us a call at 409-383-6004 and one of our reps can answer any questions you have.

I have the same truck!

Here you go... cpaddict.com/products/instrument-cluster-bezel-repair-clips-1992-1996-ford?_pos=4&_sid=3e75d93de&_ss=r

That is a very very rare case. The flashing OD is typically a sign of the trans being in limp mode and is more than likely a trans issue.

On our webstore www.cpaddict.com

Prices change to much

It will not close the charge circuit for the alternator to actually charge the vehicle.

That bulb completes the circuit to the PCM for the charging system. If you put an LED in that circuit the PCM will not turn the alternator on to charge.

Good to know. Looks like I'm taking that bulb out tomorrow