Most modern autos have a mechanism that prevents over-winding, the stem will freewheel like a bicycle. Even manual wind resistance becomes enough that you don't go any further. It's just common sense really.

How breathing damage your lungs

How shitting damages your anus.

Did you actually watch and COMPREHEND the video? I saw your profile and if it's accurate, then you are not a child.

@@just88 Jesus Christ, who pissed in your cornflakes? What's your argument exactly?

@@just88 What's your arguement exactly?

Lots of watches can only be hand wound.

Listen to his full answer to question two. He basically explains it completely. Look at when he winds the gold movement by crown and see all the visible gears, even the screws moving to manually wind the main spring through the main barrel. Then watch how he moves the rotor and see only the smaller visible golden gears spin and the larger visible silver gears or screws don't move at all. That's the two ways of winding your watch: by movement of rotor or by manual wind. Manual wind just moves more parts. Basically.. winding by crown moves more parts, thus making them wear out over time. Doing this all the time to your watch will make the gears teeth or the crown-stem wear out too low to actually catch on the other gears to move it and making the worn out dust or broken debris stop your watch (just like how driving your car in higher rpm's will wear out your engine internals sooner) this makes the watch not able to wind by either ways. So even more basic...wind crown too much...watch no work.. lol Only wind the watch about 10-40 times (depending on the watch) to put enough kenetic energy into the main spring to reach its estimated running time. Then (depending on the watch) do this again to build up the reserve before the energy is depleted (estimated running time) to keep the watch ticking. Otherwise wearing it throughout the day everyday will do the same, as long as you're actually moving your arm lol. Hope that explains it more to anyone who's wondering 🤔

@@xHhAaBbZzx not useful when the watch is closed LOL

Seriously! No one on the internet so far is telling me what overwinding feels and sounds like. I wound my new SW200-1 for forever, not feeling or hearing any difference until I gave up. Was trying to find the end so that I know approx how many/how long/what feel/what sound

​@vipermoon_ My understanding from other watchmakers instructions and from many free watchmaking videos is that over winding is simply winding a manual wound watch past it's natural stopping point. When a manual wound watch is fully tensioned it comes to a natural stop and you would have to intentionally push through this stop, breaking stuff. It is apparently uncommon to see in many watchmakers practices. On the other hand an automatic watch cannot be overwound as the mainspring in an automatic watch is designed to slip within it's barrel so that the action of wearing the watch does not cause it to become overwound (therefore you never feel a "stop" when hand winding it). The winding gear mechanisms for an automatic watch are generally not as robust as those in a manual wind watch and so they aren't designed for you to fully wind the watch each time it has been sitting. Also, the video points out that you could be stressing the auto wind mechanism through a different direction than intended when you are hand winding it. The best approach is to not fully manually wind an automatic (and you may have difficulty telling when it is fully wound because that main spring is slipping by design). My approach for an automatic that has been sitting is to pick it up and give it a gentle shake, if it starts ticking i set the time and wear it. If it doesn't start right up I give it just enough winds to get it moving and then wear it.

@@zacwoodward6054 Thank you! That very much makes sense and explains that situation I had.

Glad it was helpful!

Almost all Portofinos on the market right now (unless specified as hand wind) are automatics. Many Reverso's are hand wound. This is like the difference you speak of. Automatic movements must allow the mainspring to slip in its barrel and you will not feel a stop. Hand wound movements will reach a complete stop.

You should really have it serviced. The old oils dry out and you will ruin the jewels without lube. In 1965 they didn’t use the long lasting synthetic oils they have today and the old oils can be detrimental when dry. As they dry, they can become akin to grinding paste and you’ll unnecessarily wear out the pivots.

@@roversgonemad I understand but it was a watch that belonged to an uncle who passed away in 1976. I only wear it occasionally. I was given estimates of $300-$380 for servicing. I'm an old guy who normally wears a $44 Casio Duro. As I said, I was surprised it worked at all as accurately as it does. Also I'm a cheapskate, I'll just enjoy it while it works. Thanks, though.

yes, I believe it would be the reversing wheel, and the swiss type usually have two. Some manufactures call them a differential wheel.

Are You wearing it? If You are wearing the watch daily for at least several hours at a time while moving around then don’t bother winding it. You only need to wind it if it runs dead and stops or if it has been two days since You wore it. Also, either dead or two days of not wearing the watch should really only need 20-30 winds before it is ready to be worn or time to be set. The mainspring on many watches needs to be partially wound before the balance wheel is spinning with enough rotational amplitude to remain accurate. A full 55 turns is not needed, doesn’t hurt but it’s excessive. After half wound, the watch will wind back to full while You wear it. I’d recommend only manually winding the watch full if You wish to keep it running for a day or two while not wearing it.

Either is fine. The Seiko movement can take hand winding like a champ.

The watch will only wind in one direction. The clicking you hear when winding it in that direction (mostly clockwise) is from a part called the Click working on the wheels of the mainspring barrel to keep it from unwinding. When you wind the stem in the opposite direction you often still hear a form of clicking but this is the clutch mechanism slipping in reverse, not winding your watch. There's usually little harm in winding the stem backwards even though it's not contributing to winding your watch. On some watches like old pocket watches where the hoop interferes with your ability to wind the watch, it can be easier to just hold onto the winding crown and go back and force instead of repeatedly repositioning your fingers around the hoop.

Thank you for your comment. I hope you get well soon!

Why wouldn't you take your watch off before putting on your brace?

It's not that bad. Newer movements have a clutch to prevent overwinding

Get a quartz Eco-Drive.

Mecha-quartz

Grand Seiko 9F blows away every mechanical watch in terms of accuracy

​@@HughesEnterprises Just about any quartz movement blows away the most expensive mechanical movement in terms of accuracy. No need for a 9F only to do that.

I never wind my ETA 2824 because it's prone to damage the automatic system. Basically you end up feeling the weight of the rotor when winding the watch, because you turn around the rotor as you manually wind the watch, which puts a lot of stress on it and requires a service to get fixed. It did happen to one of my watches. It's been 4 years since I exclusively wind by shake and got no problem at all. Not for 1min though, just to start it. Consider how many times a rotor spins around during an active day, which can be multiplied by thousands of days before a potential service. I don't think a good shake can harm it.

Thank you for the advice.

@@H0kramJust don’t ever wear the watch and it will always be perfect…

Hi, very good question, thanks for asking! While the watch unwinds, the power curve of the mainspring drops. Usually, the accuracy also drops a little bit while the power drops. Winding it every day at the same time evens out that drop in accuracy over the days. So it mainly has a practical reason.

If You doing it carefully and don’t overwind the watch, You are ok. Just follow the instructions from Your watchmaker and from this video. I agree, that video is somewhat confusing, especially the title. You need to listen very closely, I only picked up the crucial words second times I listened, cause english is not my first language. Don’t overwind it, be careful, don’t let moisture inside the watch and avoid fully winding automatic movements manually too often.

That seems to be okay. The ETA movement in that watch gives a very slight impulse to the rotor. Some movements are designed that way. Nothing to worry about, I would say.

thanks alot that's a relief 🙏@@SillyVintageWatches

My new Murph 42mm started vibrating extremely while winding, but then I stopped and never did that anymore..?

No, I'm not into handwinding a watch every day. An automatic is better.

This would explain why the manual for my Seiko automatic says if hand winding is necessary, 'wind slowly'.

I doubt you broke either of your watches by winding it. Watch winders are stupid. Just stop buying Christopher wards, lol.

@@Jake-bt3fc well my 1st C.W. would still work as long as i gave it a good shake everyday lol... not sure it would have run for the full 38 power reserve, if i tried manual winding it just click without any tension when turning the crown... i been wearing that watch for now, just can't get it wet... my 2nd C.W. does the same thing when trying to manually wind it, but even though i can get it to run by shaking the watch good, it only runs for about 12 hours before stopping completely...

Don't ever get a Christopher Ward watch lol...

😂

Only if it's a one direction belly rotation.

This is BS.

It‘s actually not. If your watch doesn‘t have hacking it‘s a good tip.

@@JamesIdentity Agreed. I made the assumption we are talking about most modern watches with hacking. Your exception is correct.

That is a very good question indeed. In some high-end watches there is a winding limiting mechanism used called a Maltese Cross, but to be honest I have no Idea why modern hand wound movements are not also just fitted with a slipping mainspring.

@@SillyVintageWatches thanks

It's not that handwound movements don't have protection against overwinding, it's that the mainspring in the barrel does not have a slipping bridle, the bridle will rest inside the wall inside the barrel and therefore can only be wound to a certain point. And the channel owner doesnt know what he's talking about sort of, A maltese cross is a type of stopworks in watchmaking, it prevents the mainspring from unwinding past a certain point to where the amplitude on a watch would be less than ideal and result in a gain in time. And there are some handwound movements out there with slipping bridles in the mainspring but it's uncommon. I'm a watchmaker.

So you know when it‘s fully wound.

Do not ever tighten the crown once it stops screwing. You will damage the gasket and damage the screw threads.

@yehoshuacirt8645 Great thanks for the tip 👍

Yup, i damaged 2 C.W. divers with winding the watches after getting home from work...

Very good advice. I figured this out a while back, and took to counting the “winds“ - each cycle being only about 180° of crown rotation - and stopping short of the full possible count, as this clearly brings us to maximum tension inside the barrel.

@@otimernr6978 Yes! This is the "Winding Way"!!

Why?

@@zacwoodward6054 Sounds like you need to watch the video again! It's okay, sometimes it takes a couple of viewings to really understand the proper care of manual wind watches. Winding a watch - though necessary - is also potentially damaging to a watch if wound too tight or even 'all of the way'. "Watch" it again!! I'm certain you/ll get it the second time!

So what you're saying is you can't explain the answer? I have viewed many watch repair courses and disassembled, troubleshoot, and reassemble several watches myself, so I think I have the concepts down. Essentially every manufacturer I have looked into from JLC, to Tag Heuer, to Grand Seiko recommend fully winding their hand wound movements. I have 140 year old manual watches that work fine to this day. The mainspring is not at full power until it's fully wound and this impacts the power and amplitude it transfers through the gear train to the balance and escapement. Automatic watches cannot be overwound and manual watches can only be overwound under undue force. So again, what is the explanation for stopping 2 winds short?

What? You think I shouldn't wear a mechanical watch because I don't baby it like it's a fragile little baby bird?

@@Jake-bt3fc Not at all. Treat it as you may. That's YOUR business - how you treat your watch - not mine! You don't even HAVE TO wind it (if it is a mechanical). Then it will be right more often than if you do!

@@Jake-bt3fc Yea! Go ahead and beat up that wonderful Maserati of a watch which is finely tuned and shows considerable elegant workmanship. There's no reason to show it respect and treat it delicately... RIGHT!! (not.)

@@BarbaraA.MertzRN-CCRN The whole point of wristwatches is to be robust and strong enough to be worn daily. You don't need to neurotically baby your wristwatch.

@@Jake-bt3fc No, those are YOUR specific needs. This is why your plastic watches are so popular today. There are watches that fulfill this need like most quartz watches, dive watches, Iron Man, CASIO G-SHOCK, RICHARD MILLE, and etc. But there are other watches that don't fit this specific category as well... Take your great grandfather's old mechanical wristwatch that has been carefully serviced and cared for - but you still wear regularly. Or, for further example, the rattrapante' wrist watches (the mechanical ones - not the less expensive quartz watches) or even striking/chiming watches, minute repeaters. You wouldn't put those in your very limited category of "robust and durable" would you? So, the greatest gratitude of watches is the appreciation of the many categories and respect for EACH CATEGORY and NOT try and place ALL WATCHES into your specific yet limited need category all by itself! It's just NOT a matriculated view!!

Exactly right.

I have a quartz watch and the adjustment shaft over time rusted and snapped when the jeweler tried to get it free. The watch still ran, but it was no longer possible to adjust the time. A mechanical issue killed the watch.

As soon as you remove bridges etc you need to reapply lubrication on reassembly, to do that you need to clean the parts first…and once you repair a watch and hand it back, in the mind of the owner you become responsible for any subsequent faults, so best check everything.