What breaks first?

Рет қаралды 77,006

Жыл бұрын

How strong are V threads? The rope in a loop is going to be strong enough to catch any whipper and be a 10:1 safety ratio to rappel on. The real question is more about how strong is the ice. We did 5 tests in this video and found the 6mm and 7mm ropes break when installing them with 21cm screws but the ice kept breaking at 14kN and 15kN with our 10mm rope until we put it in a giant v thread and found out we couldn't pull it to failure.
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Sweet montage
00:28 V threads
03:04 Test #1
06:13 Test #2
08:26 Test #3
09:12 Test #4
10:09 A Thread vs V Thread
10:55 Test #5
12:33 Data Results

Пікірлер: 53

@HowNOT2 Жыл бұрын

Ice Screw Tests at kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ft-PipRh3bPWc4E.html and this blog and data is at www.hownot2.com/post/vthreads Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

@1onfire619 Жыл бұрын

You are actually doing so much for spreading climbing knowledge and awareness, you should receive grants from alpine associations.

@winterroadspokenword4681 Жыл бұрын

He doesn’t need alpine associations. We can donate directly to him, simply because we like the work 😊 That way we cut out the middlemen.

@sinisterthoughts2896 Ай бұрын

True, but doesn't mean he can't be supported by both.@@winterroadspokenword4681

@luc4662 Жыл бұрын

Would love to see two follow ups: - what about 16 cm screws ? - test in some nice blue/transparent icefall ice

@Cthulhucultist1 Жыл бұрын

woo! thanks guys. I would be super stoked to see this on water ice as well as 10-13cm a thread strength.

@BorgTinderne Жыл бұрын

Beyond thankyou. I'm planning a trip to Greenland in 2024. Touch wood, we go around the problems & watch the world go by. But ... should we need to go up / down a glacier that we didn't expect, then confidence in how strong a v-thread is pretty high on the list of things to know.

@luc4662 Жыл бұрын

Sounds interesting… can you make us dream and share a bit your plans?

@gotta-jibboo9139 Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much Ryan! Been patiently waiting for this one!

@jasonjb7892 Жыл бұрын

Very much appreciate the ice videos. As an avid ice climber, who has taken a grand total of 1 ice fall ( system held!) I've wanted to see demos vs. reading about how/why screws fail. I will say that you chose excellent ice to test with, as opposed to the aerated, wet, brittle, plating, or other less than 'ideal' ice I've led in the past. Despite the test results, and my fall experience, I still will never trust ice. But still, great videos, much appreciated.

@UNIQUENAME2007 Жыл бұрын

dope to see you testing on ice!

@coltonharris4556 Жыл бұрын

It’d be cool if you tested snow anchors. Bollard T picket Ice axe boot belay

@CJski Жыл бұрын

I think he did test some snow anchors in another video

@tereza6809 Жыл бұрын

Nice job guys! Thank you💪😘

@jeffreycarman2185 8 ай бұрын

Great video!

@jomaier9195 Жыл бұрын

I think this the perfect channel for this issue: I feel like we as sportsclimbers destroy our holds by "polishing" them with our sweat and chalk. In the long term our grandchildren will have to climb polished holds without good friction. Can we as a climbing community avoid this? For example by making it a habit to clean all the holds after sending the route? Probably it is too much work and annoying for most climbers... Or is there another way? Looking forward to a discussion :)

@matonni7 Жыл бұрын

You still can forbid use of chalk, as in many (sandstone) crags in CZ or DE :D And honestly, when the rock has a good friction (most of jurassic limestone in Europe, or volcanic rocks), it's more of a habit than of a need.

@tehrater480 Жыл бұрын

Cool stuff! Loved it

@Benlucky13 Жыл бұрын

Super surprised how strong those shallow looking v-threads were, though I'm no ice climber. Didn't expect even the 6mm cord to break before the ice Part of me wonders how strong that drill bit would be as an ice screw with a little modification to the chuck end

@boudibla4011 Жыл бұрын

Would love to see a comparison with Waterfall Ice, and a comparison V-thread and A-thread.

@hugh4658 Жыл бұрын

From memory, A-threads are meant to be marginally stronger, but they are both so strong that the difference between them in their intended application is kinda semantics. I go with A-threads because it's way easier to line it up correctly and therefore faster.

@sveinoscarskilleas7561 Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

@robotflex6454 Жыл бұрын

Thankyou!

@MikeDCWeld Жыл бұрын

You should go back and retest the DEEP A-thread using the Slack Snap. Should be fun hauling it out there.

@petewhittington9399 Жыл бұрын

What about using a Velcro closure strap. Easy to remove/open the case, and easy/quick to close again? (I appreciate you needed a "Band-Aid" solution while in the field, but moving forward?)

@ronl7131 Жыл бұрын

Interesting experiments

@lordofnothing. Жыл бұрын

thanks! ♥

@benja_mint Жыл бұрын

A metric inch 😅😆

@jackiceful Жыл бұрын

want to see similar tests in 'normal' cliff ice with these ever so changing temperature climate ;-0)

@ajacobs223 Жыл бұрын

Lee Vinning waterfall ice next

@drcrocodile1 Жыл бұрын

The angle of that pull was not the angle of a fall? Still impressively strong.

@raedslacklines Жыл бұрын

👌🏻

@markus717 Жыл бұрын

Title shouldn't be "ropes vs ice, which breaks first", it's "ropes vs glacier ice..". Big diff!

@sophiakukurovska8083 Жыл бұрын

Why didn't you test the 8mm thread?🥺

@laneeardink9849 Жыл бұрын

9:52 - "You had like, a metric inch." A metric inch? Must be an American thing.

@daxhopkins7312 Жыл бұрын

The inch is defined by the metric system. The standard inches of the imperial system are, in a way, metric inches

@dakotamatata Жыл бұрын

Are you sure the measurements you’re getting are accurate? It looks like you have the safety line attached to the line scale, wouldn’t it measure the shock from being caught by its safety line?

@pat13487 Жыл бұрын

Interesting

@user-mz6sh4uo7u Жыл бұрын

i wonder why it'll be going away anyway

@Overitall805 Жыл бұрын

Ice = transient

@UNIQUENAME2007 Жыл бұрын

coat hanger > sweatshop made v thread tool

@gustav2828 Жыл бұрын

Go waterfall ice!

@kensmith8832 Жыл бұрын

This is some great engineering data. I like watching the interatomic bond being tested to the breaking point. I call this the interatomic bomb theory, which is a failure pun. Engineering jokes are only understood by a few.

@perryjonsson Жыл бұрын

At 9:54 - A metric inch? - What is that?

@markus717 Жыл бұрын

25.4 mm

@A_F_Makes 3 ай бұрын

Who invented V threads in ice?

@stevenharper6394 Жыл бұрын

What's a metric inch?? 😂

@docteurlowbat Жыл бұрын

Well, it's an inch. Because as far as there where differents values accros the world they decide that the inch is exactly ...25.4 mm. So metric system rules the inch !

@adventureswithfrodo2721 Жыл бұрын

These were used on lead climbing in Russia 20 + years ago, maybe more. Best vthread tool is a coat hanger. If you bring a bud ass drill wgy don't you bring a come-a-long.