How NOT to Haul on El Capitan - Big Wall Tips
Рет қаралды 83,152
3 жыл бұрынBig Wall Bible bigwalls.com/
Step 1: stay attached to the cliff
Step 2: set up a pulley system
Step 3: grunt when you pull down on the rope
Ok, more helpful tips: Dock the bag on the side of the anchor in the direction of the next pitch. Dock the bag to the tail of the rope using a munter with half hitches to lock it off so you can release the bag even if it wants to swing over. Pull up on the bag strand and down on the loose side to get bags up easier. Add a quickdraw to backup the pulley, especially if you are 100% on the jug line.
The bags were 1.33kn or 299lbf. Ryan put the same max force when pulling.
The anchor saw 3.10kn or 696lbf and not just 598lbf which would be the two sides added up. Why???
Popular video about Pooping on El Capitan is at • Big Wall Climbing: How...
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Intro
00:27 Beginning
01:42 Connecting the bags
03:40 1st Haul - Dyno on bag
09:34 2nd Haul - Dyno on anchor
16:97 3rd Haul - Dyno on Ryan
18:30 5th Haul
19:52 Party Time
20:46 Ending
@HowNOT2 8 ай бұрын
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@fernandosanz4422 3 жыл бұрын
This one´s for the algorithm and to wish Bobby a speedy recovery
@kevinscheetz9643 3 жыл бұрын
Munter-clove is to climbing as pizza-fries is to skiing. If you do one when you should've done the other, you're going to have a bad time.
@ryansheridan5015 3 жыл бұрын
Hahahaha. This comment got me
@theringtails7911 3 жыл бұрын
😂 Stan Darsh!
@LocalConArtist Жыл бұрын
Good analogy
@chadillacinc 3 жыл бұрын
I'm a hiker, afraid of heights. I love watching this stuff. It's incredible to watch and learn what it takes to do what you do. Keep it up
@mitchellbarnow1709 3 жыл бұрын
I 100% agree with you! I love to watch climbing and marvel at all of their equipment, even though I always get a sick feeling when you are looking down.
@ericlakota6512 3 жыл бұрын
Four weeks before i saw your channel id never want to hang from some of the ancors but now after all your stress tests id have no problem
@esoteridactyl 3 жыл бұрын
This channel makes me want to start aid climbing. I've never done any climbing in my life but I somehow found this channel and it looks so amazing to do.
@johnmcho 3 жыл бұрын
Do it. A0 level aiding is easy to pick up and a ton of fun.
@esoteridactyl 3 жыл бұрын
@@johnmcho Yeah Aiding looks the most fun to me lol
@LocalConArtist Жыл бұрын
Aiding is how technical climbers relax
@karlderdelinckx 3 жыл бұрын
Nice to see this in a practical situation. There are a lot of KZfaq vids explaining the basic technique’s but not often you see the real thing. Tnx
@WallaceGneiss 3 жыл бұрын
Strong work gentlemen. Keep up the superb content. The community appreciates & greatly benefits from your sharing of knowledge.
@MountainmadeofSteam 3 жыл бұрын
@ 13:22 that‘s almost the same technique we use in rope access to lift an injured or unconscious person out of their system, really cool to see it in this application
@kyrg 3 жыл бұрын
It may be just me, but climbing at night has alway meant an epic in the making involving various amounts of cold and wet with a dash of neath death moments thrown in for good measure. This vid gives me hope.
@alcupone6462 3 жыл бұрын
The 0.5 kN is the shock load, pull force equal to the gravitational force means you only hold the bags without the assistance of the blocking system of the trax pulley. So you have to pull more to cause the upwards acceleration of the bags. This explanation of course ommits the friction in the pulley, which also increases the force you need to pull the bags.
@HowNOT2 3 жыл бұрын
Oooof, that's a lot of variables. It's fun to do real life tests to see what happens.
@alcupone6462 3 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 especially with so many stretchy ropes you can never be sure what the output will be, that's why we love your tests :)
@deang.7483 3 жыл бұрын
Great vids ! Munter hitch known here in NZ (& other places ??) as Italian hitch. (because it changes sides so easily). Mamma mia ! No offenso intendo.
@brandonm1088 3 жыл бұрын
"It's a Ryan to one" I would like to see an engineering schematic of this
@MAV3NX 3 жыл бұрын
I concur
@beginna 3 жыл бұрын
love this kind of videos. 👍 so much content, tips and tricks to pick up. definitely gonna rewatch it a few more times.
@GavynPendleton 3 жыл бұрын
Ryan 2 really has some good tips for hauling
@TheWtfnonamez 3 жыл бұрын
Nothing but respect for you guys. What you do is complicated. Only its complicated on the side of a rockface, with thousands of feet to drop.
@annacrow9716 3 жыл бұрын
I've always been super curious about this. Thank you for the video!
@kellyl.2111 3 жыл бұрын
Never a day in my life climb a mountain. But your videos are so informative, while being entertaining! Please keep it up ! Maybe one day I will attempt it.
@xsuperbmentality 3 жыл бұрын
I'm gonna practice by hauling my backpack with sandwiches and beer on the 3-4 pitches I do 😂
@joecool1875 25 күн бұрын
You two make an awesome team like you were born on a big-wall 🙌❤️
@jhuntley575 3 жыл бұрын
I found this video very interesting even though I didn't understand half of it. Really enjoyable to watch. You all are crazy 🤪
@shauntosen2141 3 жыл бұрын
I'm not even a climber but I watch just for the sheer comedy brilliance. Keep going 💪
@pedroferreira3371 3 жыл бұрын
That is great content right there The best climbing channel I know
@keithboone4800 3 жыл бұрын
Amazing content as always
@jeroenvanzeeland7812 3 жыл бұрын
The extra 0.5kN of force at 14:31 comes from the increased acceleration (F = m*a, so while the mass accounts for the 2.66kN, the acceleration on the anchor is higher since he is "jumping" on the ladder). That, or the increased force input because it got stuck under the roof.
@duncanpope2899 3 жыл бұрын
Best video in a while
@ericlakota6512 3 жыл бұрын
Man dont know y but ive ben glade to watch every video even though not climber never even thought of climbing i think all rigers and climbers of all types should watch this channel like tree guys iron workers and tower workers. Its so nice to see the strenghth of the gear of corse when your hanging you have the cast flaw in mind the swivil clips i never like to use even though rated for x amount of weight i hate the feel of hanging from one high strenghth bolt when on the crane
@MollieRuth 2 жыл бұрын
Looking forward to seeing that lil 2mm cord properly breaking when you test that out on the drop tower!
@edvinenetjarn9608 3 жыл бұрын
What a lovey clip, such a nice friend, keep him close!! :)
@BASEmedia 3 жыл бұрын
Great video guys 🙌🏻
@gotta-jibboo9139 3 жыл бұрын
Best video yet!
@huvrmedia 3 жыл бұрын
Really great episode. More big wall pls! :D
@sebastianloessl7982 3 жыл бұрын
damn, thanks for sharing that video. it seems SOOO much fun
@christinegerard4974 3 жыл бұрын
Great video ! …technical ! Fascinating …
@stealthop 3 жыл бұрын
great video tutorial thingy thank you Ryan^2
@taylorwayne6549 3 жыл бұрын
I hope you make a video of the “stuff going on” up with those high line anchors
@samcarter596 3 жыл бұрын
Great video!
@jfo738 3 жыл бұрын
Those anchors all look super good enough
@joynthis 3 жыл бұрын
From the thumbnail it looked like Weird Al goes jugging.
@ericlakota6512 3 жыл бұрын
Goodto see the guy from bag poop video
@micahstewart7819 3 жыл бұрын
You need a light weight cone that wont scrape on the granite to protect the bags and keep them from fetching up. Love the content! Subscribed! I do arborist line work and really enjoy watching you guys, I have to give you for a lot of the safety check tips I swear by. Thank you 🙏
@RobertSzasz 2 жыл бұрын
I wonder if just a triangle of a thin plastic would work when hauling two big bags. (Only one side should be against the rocks and it shouldn't flip over if the bags are wide enough?)
@moshrom 7 ай бұрын
I just imagined someone hauling bags topped with a traffic cone up the mountain 😆
@buckmanriver 3 жыл бұрын
Loved this film. I am maxed out for my donations this month with other orgs and plan to contribute $10 in June. If every person that watched this film donated $10 you could fund the channel for 6 months on a budget! Keep creating!
@natebailey8768 3 жыл бұрын
Awesome video, have you done a video about which capture devices rip the rope first? Micro-T, Pro-T, ascenders, rope man, Kong duck etc. lots of folks use em for solo, would be interesting to see if the curved teeth are worse than the flat serated
@isaacstone7899 2 жыл бұрын
I think they should to make light weight roll wheels to haul stuff up wall, it make less friction apply against wall.
@youtubemissedaspot 3 жыл бұрын
Hey algorithm - we like this channel
@micahstewart7819 3 жыл бұрын
I wish we had mountains like that here in the Appalachians of Nova Scotia.
@AlpineAddict 3 жыл бұрын
Sweet jesus and I thought trad climbing was faffy O.O
@jarodlojeck5150 3 жыл бұрын
Not mutually exclusive.
@tomtom4405 3 жыл бұрын
What beautiful rock, love that light granite with darker crystals. It looks too beautiful to climb on. Could you mail me a few cubic miles of it, happy to swap for some low grade rhyolite and a bit of shale
@rikvdmark 3 жыл бұрын
Velly velly nice 😬
@sendit2873 2 жыл бұрын
that looks like some sketch clutter for sure that dude is wide open he is a beast that is very comfortable on that wall really like the edelrid gear I am a lime green guy and the gear looks nice and new
@schmoo... 2 жыл бұрын
Commenting for the algorithm! Want more of this sweet sweet content on my feed
@Glenners Жыл бұрын
I love your videos dude. Also has anyone ever told you you look like tony hinchcliffe and Dennis from IASIP had a baby?
@thefack149 Жыл бұрын
More Sheridan please!
@1stWolverine 3 жыл бұрын
At least two of your videos I wish I would have seen a year ago.
@bonefishboards 2 жыл бұрын
I bent the hell out of an old Wall Hauler years ago up on a wall route hauling ~250 pounds. I have another one, undamaged, I should send to you to see what a light weight bends the catch sleeve to the point of having to cut the rope out of it. Yeah, that sounds as bad as it is.
@chadjackabon7157 3 жыл бұрын
I’m gunna be that guy… munter mule half hitch 😂
@beingaware8542 2 жыл бұрын
amazing video. not a mule knot though.
@kilianlommer7842 2 жыл бұрын
You mentioned at 16:46 that the bolts are stainless while the hangers are not. So I would be concerned about galvanic corrosion, what's your thoughts on that?
@coralnerd 3 жыл бұрын
For a guy with a lot of gear to choose from I'm surprised you used a crappy old minitraxion as your haul device. Nice work though. El Cap is the happiest place in the world. I miss it.
@ratherbyexploring4898 3 жыл бұрын
How does the pound weight relate to the pound force? 300 ft-lb force hauling, i would assume the bags weigh at least 300lbs… but how to get to force?
@niccolofinardi4825 3 жыл бұрын
We want you to climb the freeblast slab 🤟
@rodster3600 2 жыл бұрын
I heard the algorithm is looking to hire
@arnonimous7588 3 жыл бұрын
Hey, how do you like those Edelrid hauling bags ?
@jacobbouck4738 3 жыл бұрын
how far up do the fixed ropes go?
@decipherlogic 3 жыл бұрын
How is the rope above you at each pitch?
@SleepTightShipOfDrea Жыл бұрын
Yeah I still have no clue about how to haul. In fact, I have less of a clue. Which is good, I've become more aware of what I don't know.
@Dani_Escalada 3 жыл бұрын
it would be good to see how do you tie all those knots on the bags, don't quite understood how the bags tether it's made. I've seen the video were you go through this, but I don't think this is quite the same.
@robertodeoliveira5735 3 жыл бұрын
The knot used was a bunny ears, you can google that
@adamtrueman3306 3 жыл бұрын
With a figure eight knot, do i still use a termination knot? Still learning/ any comments welcome. Thanks!
@dannyCOTW Жыл бұрын
Nope, fig 8 is bomber and an extra knot can get in the way
@paulmitchell5349 3 жыл бұрын
Ground control to Major Tom........How much does all this bouncing on the haul rope reduce its safety for leading ?
@matthewdavies3623 3 жыл бұрын
so many ropes and knots I had no clue what's going on but I'm pretty sure I would forget something and die
@HowNOT2 3 жыл бұрын
We'll make a more simple video, but this was the big picture
@markchristiansen4827 3 жыл бұрын
I feel like I would stick all my focus on my connection to the rock and then accidentally drop a bag on someone's head instead.
@matthewdavies3623 3 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 I'm sure this was great for climbers I love the channel but I have never climbed before
@matthewdavies3623 3 жыл бұрын
@@markchristiansen4827 I feel like I would get the ropes confused and untie the wrong thing and fall on someone's head. with how many times I pay for my groceries and walk away with them still on the counter or open the fridge and forget what I was getting climbing just probably isn't for me. just one wrong knot or dumb mistake and you're dead
@robertodeoliveira5735 3 жыл бұрын
@@matthewdavies3623 the interesting thing is that when your life depends on it, you tend to have much better memory $& focus 😉
@SK-fo3hk 3 жыл бұрын
Looks like well earned Awesome fun?
@someonethatcaresaboutyou4526 4 ай бұрын
Super Rad!
@MichaelShuler 3 жыл бұрын
Does anyone have an opinion on good|better|best first haul bag? There have been a few routes I would have really liked to have one and I've destroyed a couple daypacks hauling them over the years. For reference, I would like to eventually head out to Yosemite, but haven't big-wall'ed yet, so it would be nice to have a workable smaller size like the Eldrids (new to me) here most likely. It dawns on me that some old haul bag might donate its last bit of life to the dyno and breaktester... if you had to, could/would you whip on it?? lol, thanks!
@climbandride420 3 жыл бұрын
There pricey but fish haulbags are amazing. Run out customs i think still does haul bags. And there's always the standard Metolius and black diamond bags...I use the Metolius freerider for small single day stuff.
@alexfletcher5863 3 жыл бұрын
A 70L metolius has been my go to for 1-2 nights for two people. A 120L is better for more nights.
@jfo738 3 жыл бұрын
How many people Ryan? Also, how much water do you bring with you? I'm usually >2L/day/person on a wilderness trip, but that's an impossible on a climb like this.
@ryansheridan5015 3 жыл бұрын
A gallon per person per day on elcap is the standard
@daemkru 3 жыл бұрын
nice one! Do I understand this right, that if the bag side of the pulley loses weight @04:47 (bag ripps etc) and is now lighter than ryan on the other side of the pulley, he would slip down uncontrolled?
@ryansheridan5015 3 жыл бұрын
100% correct. Important to always be aware of failure mechanisms, inspect haul straps and make sure carabiners are locked.
@ryansheridan5015 3 жыл бұрын
continuing the thought experiment ) if the bags suddenly got lighter Ryan would fall the distance between the bags and the pulley. Then then knot would jam and arrest the fall (or break?) .... Scenario 2 ) Bags are much heavier than Ryan and the progress capture cam fails: Ryan would get dragged up until either he hits the pulley, or his partner who is leg pumping gets sucked up. Having a partner with a jug on the line almost adds a layer of redundancy. Thoughts: As a Hail Mary last chance before death , Ryan could grab the other side of the rope and stop the weight differential from accelerating in either direction. I wear gloves and am almost always within arms reach of the other strand. Same idea behind catching yourself on a ledge after a fall while free soloing. Sure you might be able to pull it off but if you ever find yourself in that situation you already messed up many times prior.
@daemkru 3 жыл бұрын
@@ryansheridan5015 thats right. I'm feeling confident that if the pulley progress capture fails, the "leg pumper" progress capture would catch. Is it not reasonable that Ryan below would attach himself to the fixed line with a traxion or similar in order to have a backup if the bags suddently detach? A problem that I see is that the "leg pumper" can only haul as fast as Ryan below climbs the rope. Ryan needs to climb as fast or faster than the "leg pumper" is pumping --> no breaks for Ryan.
@ryansheridan5015 3 жыл бұрын
@@daemkru Good insight. since the Ryan thing can get confusing, wall climbers call the counterweight (the guy going down as bags go up) the "Monkey in space" . You can totally jug at the same pace as the leg pumper and it will work. It does add alot more wear on the toes of your shoes though. If you want longevity from your footwear you just jug a certain distance then get lowered. The progress capture idea you had is a good one, and the simplest way to make this safer would be to take a tail of rope and give the monkey a leash between 10ft and 30ft long. The monkey could just tie in and incase of disaster they wouldnt fall all the way. The monkey must be aware of where his weight is, because when the leash or capture device comes tight the monkey will no longer be helping with the haul
@50StichesSteel 3 жыл бұрын
Quick question for all you climbing OG's out there...Is there a wrong way, or wrong direction to have that Petzel personal anchor system setup that ryan has in this video? Say one direction it locks up in a fall, and a different direction it just slips though to the sewn loops?
@robertodeoliveira5735 3 жыл бұрын
Nope… always locks up. I use it in a variety of different ways, its a super good device.
@50StichesSteel 3 жыл бұрын
@@robertodeoliveira5735 Appreciate it! I just picked one. It's the version with sewn eyelet on one end and a sewn termination on the other end..Feels solid, just didn't know if there may be something to watch out for not mentioned in the manual
@alexfletcher5863 3 жыл бұрын
There is a right and wrong way to put the carabiner in through the rope and orange adjuster. However, because the rope end is doubled over it cannot fit through the device and cannot slip out. Worst scenario is that it doesn’t lock and simply extends out fully. It should be somewhat obvious if the device is locking or if you’ve slipped the carabiner in wrong.
@50StichesSteel 3 жыл бұрын
@@alexfletcher5863 Yeah that's one thing I noticed..It has an arrow on the orange thingy for which side of the rope the carabiner goes through..I also just leave a dedicated carabiner in it now with that rubber ring to keep the biner from flipping or moving.
@shanek6582 3 жыл бұрын
What type of rock is El Capitan formed from? Is it granite? Thanks
@reportingsjr 3 жыл бұрын
Yes, it is granite.
@jc9291 3 жыл бұрын
Is GGBY 2021 going down this year!!!????
@HowNOT2 3 жыл бұрын
Yes. Keep your eye out for it on their website. www.ggbygathering.org
@telkmx 3 жыл бұрын
Lol i don’t understand anything that’s going on. I did multi pitch but not multiple day one. Not sure why it’s that’s complicated
@johnparla6252 3 жыл бұрын
👍
@Jenny2020202 3 жыл бұрын
Maybe getting a gopro and sticking it to your helmet might be helpful
@aza1479 3 жыл бұрын
Lucky
@maibemiles3904 3 жыл бұрын
I dunno if I’d say scam but definitely this platform has seen better days!!!!
@anthonypetrillo841 3 жыл бұрын
That Snyder guy posted a video of himself cutting someone’s rope... 😩
@leosmith5209 3 жыл бұрын
Engagement
@DanHolly3 3 жыл бұрын
Yeeeeer
@griffindavis974 3 жыл бұрын
There might be a visible phone number on one of the shots of the haul bag.
@Vince77777777 4 ай бұрын
as a non climber..this video might as well have been in chinese
@youtubemissedaspot 3 жыл бұрын
You show your phone number around 11:50. Just letting you know in case you want to remove.
@NoName-OG1 3 жыл бұрын
First
@nnnnnnnnnick5557 3 жыл бұрын
You talk just like blippi
@babbyloncircus 2 жыл бұрын
Dude, at 7:40 it’s 2 half hitches, not a mule.
@kevincross4302 3 жыл бұрын
Why are the comments disabled on the vids about Shawn Snyder's shenanigans?
@ortonh1 3 жыл бұрын
How can you comment about a guy that is trying to sabotage and turn the comments off
@ortonh1 3 жыл бұрын
Why all comments turned off for the last video is it bullshit if it is then your credibility is completely gone if it’s true then you need to let everyone know who he is and where he lives
@orion7741 3 жыл бұрын
really the only actual wrong thing in the video is the helmets you guys are wearing. 100% unnecessary and useless.
@zinita7715 3 жыл бұрын
So If anybody is dying it's me down here - yes, we Love redundantsie, but one Ryan is super good enough ;-) this was the answer I hoped for
@blipco5 3 жыл бұрын
I just watched your video about setting new eye bolts but could not comment. I'm not a climber but I've drilled untold thousands of anchors over forty years in construction. You need to set the new bolts a few inches away from the damaged ones, not next to them. If you epoxy them, blow out the holes with air then flush with water and let dry. This will assure a clean hole. It's sad there's a psycho on the loose.
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