Literally just spent about 8 hours trying a 3lb sledge, air hammer, crow bar, and heat gun trying to get a seized hub off my 08 silverado. Found 2 bolts, washers, and nuts, used old sockets for spacers, less than an hour later, new hub is in and everything is back together!!

I'm going to do this slick trick. But afterwards I'm still going to beat that bearing with the sledge hammer, just because.

For anyone trying this method. The issue is that "standard" bolts you get at the store (like the ones in this video) are only grade 2. Grade 2 bolts have a yield strength of 57,000 psi and tensile strength of 74,000 psi at 1/2 inch. It is far better to use AT LEAST grade 5 bolts (92,000 yield / 120,000 tensile) and even better, use grade 8 bolts (130,000 yield / 150,000 tensile).

Learned this trick a while back. Couple of add ons that make this work better.. Use 8 grade harder bolts and nuts. You don’t break them as easily. Lightly grease the threads on the bolts as this make the cranking easier. And the best additional trick is to use an electric impact bumping it and going back a forth between bolts. BTW I will do the spacers as that is my next trick to add..

This legit saved my life today. Was doing a 2012 F150 front wheel hub/bearing damn thing wouldn't budge for nothing in the world after 2-3 hours of using a Sledge hammer, Air hammer, and slide pully was ready to bite the bullet and take the knuckle off to have it pressed out somewhere but also didn't wanna risk damaging any ball joints or tie rods and making another issue to fix. Saw this video, went into my tool box and found some bolts and nuts and did the same process as you. The most satisfying noise in the world when you hear loud crack of the bearing as it starts to walk itself out. Got in out in less than 5 mins. Thanks so much.

One of the longest jobs that I had to do was replacing a hub bearing. Like you said, most videos make it sound like the part will just fall off once the bolts are removed. I tried gallons of penetrant (multiple brands), heat, sledge hammers, rented slide hammers and even enlisted my teenager and his friends. No luck. I eventually tried something similar to what you suggested and they popped off incredibly easily. The only thing I would add is to try using 3 bolts if possible. I found I made the job easier. Also use anti-seize on the new parts mating surface. It will make the next time so much easier!

I'm a retired mechanic his method works I have some additional ideas that will help you also PB Blaster it's really well on rusted bolts also when I reinstall the hub assembly always put anti-seize on the surface area of the Hub this way if you ever have to replace it it will not be difficult to take out the Hub assembly also look up the torque specifications for your particular car do not over torque the nuts on the assembly and I put it on the shaft the anti-seize hope this information will help you

Great method! Use a hardened steel bolt, washer, and nut to avoid shearing!

BRO!! 10 MIN OR LESS. YOU ARE THE MAN!! THANK YOU!! NOT EVEN KIDDING!!

This definitely works! After hammering on the hub for two hours with a sledge, went down to the local hardware store, bought the hardware, and boom! Had it off in about 20 minutes! Real life saver here! Also, have to appreciate the other tutorial videos that conveniently skip the banging and cussing parts!

I spent 2 days fighting my wheel hubs and this was the only thing that would work. Thank you!

I don’t normally leave comments but in this case I had to. I was changing the right front hub on a 05 Aviator and after over 6 hours of banging I was about to give up when I saw this video. It took me longer to drive to Lowe’s and get the bolts than it did to remove the hub with your method. FANTASTIC!!

For something to push against try using a old brake pad. The metal is strong and they are light enough to be easy to work with. 👍. Get er done.

I love you..... I tried like 2 other videos and like 5 other things. I took my front bearing off completely and took a hammer to it the first time, but I had to also replace the 2 wheel bearings in the back. Thats when i stumbled on your video... In 90 degree heat... i almost died then your video saved me. Thank you

I just used this method to loosen the bearing and used a sledge to get it fully separated. Thank you!

Done this job a few times and, you are right, most instructions just say pull off the bearing but don't say how hard it is and how to get around it. Excellent video.

Your bolt trick was the solution we needed. Nothing else we tried worked. We did use 3 hardened bolts with spacers for the removal. That allowed us to quickly distribute the load as we were pulling it off. We were working on a 2012 Ford Flex. The galvanic corrosion between the aluminum knuckle and the steel bearing is terrible here in Michigan. Thank you.

Could have used this many years ago when I did battle with my first hub. Best part of a day of hammering along with what I call "vocabulary building" and not in a good way. Tip 'o the hat for sharing this valuable trick!

Thanks so much for this video!! My 2013 Malibu has always been in NC(travel up North to snow country occasionally though). The wheel bearing hub wasnt coming off like the other guy's KZfaq showed, he did say it was great living in SW though, no rust. I thought maybe there was a bolt I hadn't removed but his video said only 3 bolts which were removed. After trying a few things I finally went to ACE and bought (3) 1/2" x 3" bolts, (6) washers, (6) nuts and tried what you said. It was still a struggle moving the wrenches but it creaked n groaned a few times and FINALLY came off. BTW, loved your laughing video, that really emphaaized how ludicrous it is to expect the hub to just come off :), very entertaining. Thanks again.

Absolutely brilliant. This is exactly what I need to do. My bearing is rust-welded to the knuckle. Thank you for this knowledge.

You,'re the man! who would 've thought of the push bolt-method? I think I've just made myself A SELF PROCLAIMED WHEEL BEARING-MECHANIC!!!

Very helpful I’ve been surfing KZfaq everywhere with no help, this was very straightforward 👍

I'm due to replace my wheel bearings on my car. I've seen so many videos of people struggling and it's a little discouraging. However, after seeing your method, I'm feeling a little more confident. I don't have any tools yet and I'll have to buy some, but I'll give it a go - it's better than paying the mechanic $1500 to replace both front bearings.

Best trick ever , spent hours on my bearing last night and within 5 min with your trick the bearing is out !! Wow thanks a lot !!!! 🎉

I knew this but kinda forgot. So thanks for refreshing my antique memory brother! Really appreciate it a lot.. I now remember I had them break off before too and found that 1/2" grade 8 bolts saved that issue. Have a blessed day!

Been doing this for years, always thought I should make a video of it as I haven't seen this on KZfaq before, only videos similar to what you describe in the beginning. Great job, great video, hopefully this gets around to everyone, makes it so much easier. Thank you for sharing.

Definitely a simple and effective method. Thank you very much for sharing this tip.

Thanks for the very useful information. This method you show in your video is the only way I could remove my wheel bearing and it worked perfectly. Two thumbs up

This is probably the most amazing thing I've ever seen you sir deserve a gold medal it's very simple and easy you have no idea of how many times I've almost killed myself to get a wheel bearing out thank you very much for putting that on here for people to learn

Holy crap man you just saved me and my sanity 20 year old rust Chevy hubs did all the normal stuff found your video. Love it hub is out

The best way in taking wheel bearing assembly out so far ! Awesome !!! Thanks !

Unfortunately I'm going to need this information this coming weekend. I sure do appreciate having it. I just hate changing cv joints but it has moved to the top of the to do list. This is truly a great strategy.

SWEET JESUS! It worked! Came off in less than 5 minutes! I LOVE YOU MAN!

Thanks for the helpful video. This weekend I changed the right front bearing hub on a 2006 Volvo S40 in my driveway. I first tried to remove it with a homemade slide hammer, attached to the wheel bolts, but after 20 minutes of hammering, it didn't move at all. I then removed some of the wheel bolts from the hub by pounding them out through the back. Using 1/2" bolts from Home Depot, I then used this bolt trick along with a pneumatic impact hammer. The hard part was finding a place on the steering knuckle where the bolts wouldn't slip when torqueing them. There's not much space on the Volvo. After some time, the hub began to slowly come out but it was hard work. Less than 1/2" distance after a couple of hours. Then 2 of the bolts seized up and had to be cut-off. I then went back to H-D for some more bolts and some other pieces of metal, which I used to help the bolts jam into the knuckle better. The rest of the removal went better but still took another hour or so. I then installed the new hub the next day, using a 5/8" threaded rod and nuts, which went down the middle of the hub, along with some homemade steel plates and some washers on the front of the hub and on the back of the knuckle, to provide support and counter-force. I then screwed the rod with the impact hammer, which slowly pushed the hub all the way into the knuckle. Next time, I think it would be a lot easier to just remove the entire steering knuckle along with the hub and then bring it to a place with a hydraulic press to have it removed and re-installed.

I love how you kept it all the way real and entertaining.

Haven't tried this yet, but just BRILLIANT!!! SOME NICE fine thread bolts and maybe a trust washer too, and this is the makings of a tool set.

im in the rust belt too, whenever i have to do a wheel bearing job i mentally prepare myself for a wrestling match and have a recovery beer right after

Spent all day on mine and couldnt get it off. All the youtube videos showed them just dropping off but glad i saw you with a big slage hammer too lol going to try your way in the morning 😊

where was this last week when i needed it?!?!? thanks you tube.

I've done this method with rotors that have been frozen on where i beat and beat them with a hammer. The 2 bolt method works like a champ.

I didn't even bother trying to hammer or chisel out the hub after watching this video in preparation for replacing a bearing on a 2013 Prius. Three 14mm bolts (8.8--equivalent to Grade 5), 3 nuts, and 20 minutes later it's out. Easy peasy!

Thanks for posting this video... this was the only technique that worked for me after trying out everything other techniques found on youtube

Best to use grade 8 bolts & nuts. Some lube on the threads may help as well.

I did a Wisconsin pontiac torrent. Punched out a stud,drilled the hole out so the bolt I had fit through then tighten til it moves then rotate to the next spot and repeat. You're going to throw away the hub and studs anyway. Can't really wreck them more. I used to like an air hammer with a sharp bit but this is better.

Just thought about a tip, if you're going too knock out your wheel studs just use said stud and your lug nut in place of the pusher bolt, which brings this methods price down too 0$ unless you break a lug somehow. Of course this would only work with open ended lugs, and you'd have too hold the end of the stud with a pair of vice grips, or something along those lines, if it didn't have a head. But since you're probably going too replace the hub itself anyways it's not like you have to much too lose.

I used to remove them with air hammer with a flat bit, by inserting the bit between the hub and the shield then hitting 2~3 time on a side, then the opposite side and keep repeat until its out.. But if you have no air hammer, the method in this video can probably be a life saver

Sledgehammer marathon! Lol i felt that. Countless hours and still stuck. Hopefully i get it off with this trick.

Great idea if you have those slots. I have done seven or eight of these all on a GMC truck and no problems. I now have a 2018 Ford Explorer and it is a nightmare. I knocked one of the lugs loose on the hub when I was beating on it, However, there is no room to get them out or the bolt trick shown here would have worked. I tried heating it, beating it and slide hammering it. Nothing would budge it. Unfortunately, this will have to go to the pros with their lifts, torches, and leverage. :( Just a warning to those with this model 2018 Ford Explorer. The earlier ones have room for you to work but not this particular year.

I suggest rotating the nut. If you rotate the bolt, you take the chance of having the end of the bolt move. This could damage the knuckle surface. If you turn the nut, this is less likely. Also , if you turn the nut, you could use a nut on the end of the bolt to spread out the pressure. Other than that, I really want to try your method.

I'm in oklahoma. Get a mix of cars from the south and north. I hit it the times with the hammer. Then this is basically how I get them out.

Thanks this worked a charm, thought I'd accidently separate the hub from the bearing but it came out with a whole bunch of caked on salt.

Worked great on 2009 xterra. Thanks for the easy how to.

If possible put the bolts in from the back so that the head is against the backplate and the nut is against the wheel flange, then turn the nut. Use 8.8 metric bolt.

Well just as i've been reading i finally did it and i have to add another comment thanking you for this video. Upstate new york rust. Got the bearing off faster than it took me to find which bolts to use

Thank you for this. I have fighting a bearing for a couple hours. going to try it.

Very helpful , thanks for sharing.

I’m going to try this tomorrow on a Crown Vic ex cop car. Thanks for the great video! 🤙🏽

I'm so glad it doesn't snow here. I can't imagine dealing with all that rust

It's called fretting corrosion, basically corrosion between 2 dissimilar materials, steel bearing and aluminum knuckle. Most cars have this problem when removing wheel bearings.ive gotten bearings off by hammering in a real low angled chisel into the seam of the bearing and knuckle. Works not bad. Do it 180 apart a bit at a time.

I went this route thinking it was the best way to go. All it did was seperate the hub from the bearing, now I ended up with even less material to hit with a sledge hammer. What worked for me was to put the bolts that hold the assembly to the knuckle far enough in that the all the theads in the assembly are in contact with the bolt threads. This leaves about 3/8 inch play, then hit the head of the bolt with an air hammer, worked like a charm.

In preperation of replacing both rear bearings on a Toyota Sienna I watched a handful of videos and kept seeing this method. I thought about stopping off at the hardware store that week but never did. Then I started the task. Couldn't get the hub off. Went to AutoZone and rented their slide hammer. Nothing. Decided maybe this method was going to be my next option and watched a few more videos including this one. Opted for the larger 5/8 bolts per your suggestion but they were only 3" and not fully threaded. Had to make a 2nd trip to the hardware store and swapped them for 5" fully threaded 1/2 bolts, nuts and washers. After a few turns I heard the pop and the hub was free. I then cleaned up the rusty connection points with a wire brush on a dremel. Coated the entire contact area with anti seize and installed the new hub. Noise is gone. Tomorrow I will swap the other side. Long day and I should have just bought this hardware when I drove past the store that week. It would have been much faster.

Only 1 of the 8 I’ve done didn’t just pull off. I pressed it off with a bolt and it separated, still stuck on lol. Air hammer finally worked.

Thank you so much, I've been beating on this, and heating it with torch, prying for two days nothing worked until I saw this video and it worked out so well, again thanks so much. A fan, Ray V.

An old head at OReillys told me about this method several years ago. I’ve used it I’d estimate 3-5 times.. it really does make the job much easier.

I used 5/8" thick bolts and one broke. I put a second one in, and repositioned both 5/8" bolts against the dust shield slightly, and the bearing slowing came out. Didn't think the bearing would come out but it did. So much for the salty roads in NJ.

Thank you for this. Been struggling with mine but I’ll try it tomorrow morning

I needed that last week. I had a stubborn Bearing. Great video thanks.

Excellent clear advice and demonstration. Many thanks.

When I replaced the front wheel bearings on a Ford Explorer, all it took was a couple of raps with a hammer. I did not need any type of puller. It took me about 1 hour and 15 minutes to do both sides from start to finish.

Yes this is the way to do it in comparison with hub buster that isn't cheap by the way. Also use grade 8 hardware it can handle more stress.

My god you're so right. These bearings are no joke.

I'am going to give you one million thumbs up for this awesome tip.. Thanks

Great video I'm gonna need all the help I can find doing my drivers side brg on sunday on my 2020 camry!!

This is going to be a lifesaver!

Man, that is a great idea. I am going to use it to remove my h3 hummer wheel bearings. The first time I replaced the wheel bearings on the hummer(80k miles ago), I used a 20lb slide hammer and heat and that process took 5 hours. I am sure your solution will work in under an hour. Thanks in advance!

Nice - could notice to remove the 3 bolt holding the bearing to the car before doing the trick

Worked like a charm👍 Thanks you for sharing😀

great job! half inch bolt info was key, so you dont have to press in new bearings, just buy new hubs/bearins installed already is what i'll need? i have 15 camry............thank you sir!

this method is great... if you have a 3 bolt assembly. 4 bolt assembly this can rarely be done

I did mine by placing a big pipe wrench on the round disc where the studs go through at the 12 o'clock position. Then I hit the pipe wrench about 15-20 times with a big sledge hammer about 6 inches away from the wheel bearing. The wheel bearing came out but I did still have to pull out part of the wheel bearing that got stuck in there since the wheel bearing broke apart as it was coming out but that was no problem .

Wow! Living here in here in one of those rust belt states and yes. Hammering away and you make get lucky with those rusty bearings. This video is a life saver because I was looking at all types of tools to remove stuck hub bearings. About to pick up some nuts and bolts now to try this out. Will report back soon 🤞🏽

I used a gear puller along with heat snd BUSTER LOOSE spray. Applied pressure, received pressure and rotate and repeat. Than when it goes, CRACK, you’re home dree

You are a genius that made this genius' day. Thanks for your contribution.

Good information...If you use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts there is less of a chance of twisting the heads off or breaking the bolt. Sometimes you have to go to a good hardware store to get the better bolts as often the big box stores only carry the cheap ones.

This video has saved me so much time and effort. Liked and subscribed 👍

Needed this info last year. I beat on a Subaru rear wheel bearing for two days.

I used a cut off wheel and cut a notch in the old bearing just before it touches the steering knuckle in two places and drove a chisel between the two but your idea is better.So the next I will try it.

This is an afternoon saving video! Thanks my friend!

Definitely would have to use some hardened nuts and bolts if you had to take a stud out, chances are you're not gonna get a 1/2 inch bolt through the stud hole. Good video, I tried doing a hub replacement really quick last night on my wife's car think "pff it'll be quick and easy I'll get it done and be in bed on time for work tomorrow morning" boy was I wrong lol

Bonus having some extra holes on this hub for the walker bolts, but great approach.

Slide hammer works amazing

Thank you for the tip. About to do this in minus temps, fingers crossed.

If you use hardened bolts and nuts (grade 8) they won't snap off, therefore allowing you to use a smaller size bolt.

If you have no holes and can't remove studs (are too long) you can do similar. Just cut threads, or find screws that exactly matches length between bearing and dust shield. Put it there and use longer nut or 2 nuts welded together. Unscrewing that nut will remove bearing.

Great, straight up video. Excacly the info I was looking for.

You are a genius! Made my life so easy

Thanks for this awesome tips, I'm surely gonna try this the next time.

WOW Working on a 2012 Ford Explorer right now you make it look so easy Thank you for the tip I've been working on the right rear wheel bearing for 2 1/2 hours and it hasn't budged will try This

I use a slide hammer works everytime. Also use an impact wrench it will help without breaking the bolts.

Planning on taking off the original front bearings on an 05 ford excursion with 220K on it... only ever driven in new England. Pray for me brothers