That’s great to hear! If your broadheads are hitting right on with your field points, bareshafts tuning isn’t 100% necessary.

Great addition! We’ve done variations of the same thing by taking a dozen bareshafts, shooting them as a group with the fletched arrows, finding the outliers and twisting the nocks until they fly with the group. Realistically we’ve found it better to just tune off of the main group of bareshafts compared to the fletch for the initial tune, and then do this with fletchings through paper after the fact, rotating the nocks until the tears are perfect. Very important for good consistent broadhead flight!

I want to know also. Looks like a really nice range.

Yes after fully tuning this bow even more after this video, this particular bow tunes with the arrow on the outside edge of center shot

@@BowOnlyOutdoors Yeah, on my Alpha X 33 I shimmed both cams all the way to the left and got the center shot at 13/16"...but the arrow was on the bow at a wicked angle when at brace height. It was very unsightly! So, I shimmed the top cam back over to the right and kept the bottom cam over to the left. Needed to then move the rest to the right so now the center shot is more like 3/4". Now it looks so much better!! It shoots broadheads and field points together at 40 yards.

The bow quiver is the Hoyt Superlite QD 6, the hip quiver is a Neet N-495 field quiver

The correct sight tape for each individual bow differs quite a bit based on factors such as draw weight, draw length, arrow weight, peep sight position, and more, so each individual bow setup will have it’s own unique arrow trajectory and speed that will correspond to a specific sight tape for each individual shooter

@@BowOnlyOutdoors thank you. I was planning on increasing my poundage eventually so I should probably go from 65 to 70 before I finish siting in then. Ty.

467 grains

Now a days we work on close friends and families mostly.

We completely understand where you’re coming from and will have to expand more on this in another video as we certainly don’t want to put off the wrong impression. Paper tuning definitely has its place, and we certainly use it like Tim does, to get each fletched arrow to fly perfectly out of our bow once the bow is tuned, but it is not the end be all when it comes to tuning a bow that’s going to shoot broadheads. Bareshafts are an exaggerated reaction to what a broadhead tipped arrow will do. Not important for target archery, but important when it comes to broadhead flight. They are of course, very finicky, and more often than not, the variation at any distance will be from the archer, not the bow, which is why we tune off of averages and how good you are able to shoot. Unfortunately many bowhunters paper tune at one close up distance in a pro shop and get a perfect tear through paper at 3’ and 10’ with one arrow and call their tuning “good”. There can be more to the story here and they may not get their broadheads to impact right on with their field points which is where bareshafts can come into play to help. Lots of variables here at play, but we have more videos on our channel that go more in depth on this, and we will continue to make more soon. Thank you for your comment!

Reading the tears while paper tuning is also very hard for new archers. It's good to paper tune to ball park it, then bare shaft to 30 if you plan on using broadheads for hunting. If you're just doing target archery, you can just paper tune, it doesn't matter as much.