HVACR Survival Isn’t it fun dubbing over the work that you’ve already done. I’ve had to do that a couple times. But it does sound good

Wtf KZfaq. We watch to see you work. The music just adds quality to an already fine product. Thats there loss. You know how many songs I got put on to before all the KZfaq police stuff. Guess all these artists are gonna miss out on my 99cents.

I know. What's bs is it's said royalty free.

I just pulled it out of my edit and then reformatted it and re-uploaded it. Takes about an extra 50 minutes to upload and process 😠

honestly, there are times where id rather hear whats being done in the vid instead of background music. But yeah, that sucks. Makes me curious what hardware you're working with that takes 50+ mins to do your edits.

Thanks for the kind words, I'm just doing what I can do.

Thanks, I agree, I try to be real and not pretend I don't screw up and have problems. Because I do 😲😏😁

Every filter/drier on my van is bi directional

I have them, there nearly double to triple the cost for a sporlan.

DOHHHHH. just one of those days :) the best part is, I missed it being backwards because the big shhh smiley lol

Your slacking 😁

Sherwin that's really nice of you to say 👍👍. I'm just a average tech trying to help give the newer guys some extra resources to learn from.

I never thought about it till this video review 👍👍.

We're a Carrier dealer as well but I've worked for Rudd and Lennox dealers but Trane is not a big seller in the residential side around my area. I mainly see them in the commercial market.

HVACR Survival I see here I don’t see to many of them but enough that it’s nice to know

It's not sold around here, and getting my shop to buy something to sit on my truck in hopes of having it when I need it is slim pickings. I have heard it does well on aluminum.

with same spot in coil . I did a lot of research about how to repair coil leak and I found products that would work well with this type of repair. Solder weld “ Alloy Sol “ comes with powder flux is best choice to repair aluminium coils. Thank you @fastlife for your comment it helps me to make my choice to repair the coil , if I succeeded it would save me a lot of money.

🤣🤣🤣👍👍 have a great weekend, thanks 4 watching!

I believe that's made in the USA but I could be mistaken? 🙄

@@HVACRSurvival Yum, this crow is tasty. . . 😅

I could be wrong but who knows anymore 🤣

You got it Chris 👍👍. It took longer to cut it up than to do the repair 🤣🤣

Thanks bud 👍👍I appreciate you checking it and leaving me feedback.

That's really cool of you to say👍👍🤜🤛 . I appreciate you taking the time to respond!

Thanks Evas Mechanical👍👍. It's all detective work if there's not a dead HVAC system laying on the ground in front of you 😁. Asking the right people the right questions and build your case of what murdered it or abused it. 😲😎👍👍 (That's my version of the big picture analogy)

I haven't seen you in a while, 👍👍 glad to see your still around, thanks 4 viewing it!

Agree, and the question is how?!?!? 🤔

I have them but there about double the cost. Good idea otherwise 👍👍

That's a good thing to know 👍👍i will definitely try that option to get a system back to operation in critical situations. Thanks for the tip 👉👍👍

I agree, I don't like them either 👍👍

Thanks Eddy👍👍

Thanks man 👍👍 I appreciate you taking the time to check them out 🤜🤛.

Thank you sir, I've lost about 80 to 85 lb. It makes life a little easier. It sucks watching what you eat but it's good all the same 👍👍

As always Ray, you have been a great supporter of my channel 👍👍 thanks man!

Rick you are very welcome. Love to support you always. Great guy doing great things. Keep up the great work.

Thanks 🐻👍👍

Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to watch it 👍👍

Thanks Ryan 👍👍

Thank you for checking it out 👍👍

I agree, it could have been worse just like that 👍👍

Thank you 👍👍. I'm glad you liked it.

It doesn't happen often, I was missing around getting the smoke alarm bypassed by the monitoring company and lost track of what I was doing. I figured it builds character 😏

Just remember you can't charge a ac without a receiver by the sight glass. I have one on my heatpump just so I can see what going on inside 👍👍

Thanks Donnie 👍👍. I appreciate the view!

trane is nothing but overpriced junk

They are all junk. I work on all brands and they all fail and they all are cutting corners to put more money in the shareholders pocket 😏👎👎

Just delete the bottom row of coils, old unit anyway saves bucks $$

That's what I'm hearing. News to me, I figured it would be higher head pressure.

I'd rather they just had replaced it 🤷🏾‍♂️

Thanks John 👍👍

Yeah, that took a minute to figure out but after a few days I got it 🤣🤣👍👍

@@HVACRSurvival Easiest way I learned to take them off is wear steel toes, grab the far sides with both hands, and give the bottom middle a tap kick while yanking upwards. Works 99+% of the time. The trick is to kick the panel like you're passing a ball to a little kid. Firm, but not crushing.

That's a good analogy 😁👍👍. Thanks 4 the info!

Thanks RJ👍👍🤜🤛

You betcha Joe 👍👍

Yes it does and makes them happy to.

I record at 1080 60fps, sometimes the lighting makes all the difference.

I would like to try the solder weld kit 👍👍

@@HVACRSurvival Dude! A garage video on it would be great! Then you can add a por to pressure test. That's if it doesn't go to hell of course hahah

There's a outfit makes a low temp alum solder for auto use using a propane torch can fix a hole in a beer can .had some lost the name worked well for EVAP leaks .

I have one like that and it did not work, I heard good stuff about solder weld and millhoff.

@@HVACRSurvival thanks

This really depends on what's included in the quote? does this include new refrigerant? This was an R 22 system that stuff goes for over $150 a pound or more. I make it look easy because I've done it for 28 years. Like they say you're paying for all those years that I spent learning the trade not the couple minutes it took me to do it because it didn't always go that easy.

@@HVACRSurvival yes this includes R 12 I thought he said ?? He said it is a special blend they use so they can not use what’s left that haven’t leaked out .He used a snifter to fund leak however no bubble test .. I always wonder could it be sodered? He said they do not do that .Replace the unit is what they are recommending because it is 10 yrs old this July 2023

🤣🤣👍👍

Thanks man 🤜🤛👍👍

I corrected it before I left. Good catch 👍👍

Thanks Knoxville, I appreciate you saying that 👍👍

Less likely to rust, and it's right before the metering device.

Or just paying better attention 👀😁. I think it was more of me not paying closer attention and all the piping and electrical breaking the visual line of travel making it less obvious.

The leak was in the aluminum not the copper. I have tried repairing a Trane coil once before and it did not work.

At the pump is not the recommended location. It's better to have it either at a different location on the system being evacuated or on the valve core removal tool. This allows you to isolate the vacuum pump from the system and do a blank off test. This helps verify that the vacuum is not only deep but stays deep when it's isolated.

I use to always put them outside. I still will at times but I now try to do them inside for the 1% better chance of catching something before the metering device and the rust factor.

We braze the filter outside, a puff of zinc spray slows corrosion

@@Froggability Sounds good to me. I use to do it outside all the time. I even did mine at my house on the outside. But as time goes on I try to do it just little bit better than I did the last time.

If it's R22 and 18 years old, I would replace it. That's a fair price.

Joe Joe, what's up my Canadian brother 👍👍. Thanks 4 checking out the video 🍺🍺.

Possible leaks is why when your using R-410a and there was no isolation valves to change it anyway if I wanted to. Thanks 4 watching!

@@HVACRSurvival Thanks for the reply, that makes perfect sense. I never even considered the issues of higher pressures with R-410a. And DUUUHH no isolation valves, LOL.

😁👍👍

Thanks 👍👍. Where you located?

@@HVACRSurvival Turkey in istanbul. It's great to watch how professionals from different countries work and great to interact with. I am using google translate, it may be wrong translation. I don't want to be misunderstood🙏

No your translation was perfect. That's really interesting, so how do you watch my videos if you don't speak english?

@@HVACRSurvival 😁😁 I know what you're doing. You describe the problem and explain what happened and some subtleties. Then you fix it. Yes, I don't really understand your language but I enjoy watching it. I am also repair small air conditioning systems and washing machines.

That's really cool 👍👍. Stay safe out there.

Interesting. Thank you!

Two reasons, the big one is I can pump the system down and change it and the other is to prevent rusting of the metal shell after it has been brazed.

I had to rewatch the video since it's been awhile. Looks like I did nitrogen for the inside but the outside I did not because of the location of the service valves made it difficult. As far as your question on the vacuum, looks to me like I cut that section out because this was a simple job and didn't want to bore people watching paint dry. Let me ask you this, what kind of vacuum hoses do you use? What kind of micron gauge do you have? Do you pull every system down below 500 and have it hold below 500 micron for over a 30 minutes? Now be truthful

@@HVACRSurvival I use Appion Megaflow 1/2” x 1/4” FL for every evacuation using only VCRTs-no more pulling vacuums through the service manifold. I use a BluVac + Pro micron gauge that performs the decay test. I purge nitrogen for everything I braze and I evacuate to at least 400 µm for everything. As everyone and HVAC should be, I am paid by the hour, and there are no shortcuts. I’ve seen the old timers set up the vacuum pump walk away and smoke a cigarette and come back and call it done because the gauge read 30 inches Hg. A lot of leaks get left behind that way.

Does everyone realized it was not my decision? If that's what the customer wants to do and they accept the responsibility. Who cares what they do. They were given the option to replace it and they chose not to. I can't twist their arm or beat him to a pulp until they buy it. LOL

How many hoses do you normally use?

@@HVACRSurvival lol the normal 3 hoses

The setup for the vacuum threw me off for a second 😂😂 I'm use to the vacuum and manifold gauge set up but shit im green as hell i just order that field piece micron gauge

@@prettycureforever7102 if you want to speed up your evacuation times and eliminate several leak points you should try the 2 hose system with vcr tools. I never believed it until I tried it 👍👍

@@prettycureforever7102 I use 3 Schrader core tools, and 2 hoses. I learned it from AC service tech, and its a bit cheaper than HVAC Survival's method. Here's the video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rb-Ka7qmydHXkmQ.html A vacuum only takes me about 5-10 minutes depending on lineset run and system size with a 6cfm pump.

🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍 Yep!

Sometimes it's hard to catch the problem if it won't act up while you're there. I try to look over the contactor and if there is any doubt about it or the capacitor they get changed. If it was mine I would call both companies and explain the issue, see how they respond. If they are reasonable they should either work with you on the bill or do something to make it right. At least that's what I would do.

@@HVACRSurvival Thats reasonable, But... Heres the thing... For the upstairs unit that i had replaced a few months ago, The old unit started acting up last year during a heat wave, the company i had at the time came out a total of 5 times total because they thought they fixed it but they didnt (It reset when they cut the power so when it started working normally they thought they fixed it) and it wasnt until i did some troubleshooting that i figured out what was going on. I found out that i could reset the unit by using the wet/dry switch, it would then reset the unit after the 5 minute delay and allow it to work for exactly 3 On/Off cycles before it had to be "reset" again to work normally. So since the company was full of idiots i got rid of them and went with a different company, which after seeing it for the first time immediately said it was because of the High Pressure Switch, supposedly because of an LED light being lit, though i didnt personally see it. So we had the whole upstairs unit replaced, which i do have to say i Loveeeee. A Few months ago the downstairs unit started doing the exact same thing and was able to again get it working a number of times before needing to be "reset". All of a sudden the unit started working Normally for nearly a month and then started acting up again a week or 2 ago. So i did some troubleshooting. They initially wanted to try replacing the logic board (Super Tinyyyyyyy little thing) and the CAP, wasnt spending $200+ for that so didnt happen.. So i took it upon myself last week and bought a $20 CAP of the same rating, that sadly didnt fix it. Then i remember seeing videos here n there mentioning the contactor and i did recall that something did look off with the contactor, so i nudged it a little and PLOP it came unstuck, there was a little rust/corrosion on the bits it would make contact with so i cleaned it up a little and the unit has been working flawlessly ever since, i'm sure the new CAP helped in some form too though. But yeah i'll consider what you said The next time i'll be seeing them is for Winter maintenance so i'll bring it up with the guy then, i likely will have him replace the contactor depending on its cost just in case though so it wont happen again. Sorry for the extremely large wall of text guys

On repairs yes, I believe until it's all gone. But we can't import it make it.

January of 2020 is when they stopped manufacturing R22.

I'm not a Trane guy so it never occurred to me that button of the coil was just a extra capacity subcooler?. Someone else mentioned that as well, it's definitely something I will take into consideration next time. 👍👍

HVACR Survival I've actually deleted an entire circuit from the coil without any distinguishable problems as well ...just to keep in mind.

That would have been handy if it was a critical unit. This one wasn't

I understand what your saying, people I speak with feel it's stupid to use them and don't want to learn the basic science of how these things work. After awhile I just worry about my self because in the end, I'm the only one I can control.

@@HVACRSurvival honestly if I could I'd probably buy them hoses for myself out of my own pocket, but I just can't find them over here , Accutools need to find a way to enter the European market . We're pulling vaccums with charging hoses , that alone doesn't make any sense if you pause and think about it , really ...

That's what I was doing 7 years ago. It will work just not as fast or as deep of vacuum.

I noticed it when I put the door back on for the electrical section. Good catch 👍

You're correct they're eagle eye, I needed to hook up the condenser coil before I could run my nitrogen through the system. I used it everywhere else.

I believe that's a 15 seer unit if I'm understanding their terminology of model numbers. They still make 13 seer evap coils and you can go to a higher efficiency evaporator if that's where it's leaking? you'll likely have to go through a dealer and they should be able to match something up.

@@HVACRSurvival Thanks.

@@HVACRSurvival It's leaking at the condenser coils. The evap is good.

@@gregflorko8402 find a company that has solder weld for aluminum and have them repair the aluminum spot that's leaking. It can easily be done now. Just got to find the right company to do it.

@@HVACRSurvival Thanks. That's what I was thinking. The HVAC tech that I had here said the coil is a combination of copper and aluminum and that it was not fixable. I don't recall his exact explanation. That company quoted me over $2,800 to replace the coil assembly or $4,000 to $6,000 (depending on tonnage) to replace the entire condenser. I told him that I didn't need an entirely new system. The indoor components, thermostat and evap coils are good. I asked him to clarify that the 4 to 6 thousand was for a condenser only with installation and he said that was correct. I'm seeing brand new condensers advertised on line for about $1,200. I've also watched KZfaq videos that explain the process of replacing a condenser unit and it doesn't look like it's anything complicated. They drain the coolant from the old one, disconnect the coolant in and out lines and the power, level the mounting area, hook up the new one, braze the lines, charge the coolant and turn it on. I can't see that being over $1,000 worth of labor at the most. I think I was quoted about double what it should cost. It sounds to me like they're trying to take about $1,000 markup on the equipment and charge me another $2,000 for labor. I'm not hiring them to do the job. Can I order a condenser on-line if I'm not a licensed HVAC vendor? If so, who would you recommend? Thanks.

There's several reasons why, (Warranty coat, safety, and professionalism) but the biggest one would be I've seen it fail to seal a refrigeration system multiple times.

I'm confused if your asking or making a statement and if so what your saying?. The leak was in the aluminum. Not the copper.

Not my call on what we do and don't quote and there maintenance guy knows what he wants.

@@HVACRSurvival yeah well I reckon that's job security

That's what I was thinking.

Not every company is screwing the customer. Sorry to bust your bubble.

Thanks Steve 👍👍

Speed of replacement is an issue right now. Things are slow to get.

It builds character. I have so many cuts and bruises it don't matter anymore 😏

😁🤣👍🏻👍🏻

👍👍

It's the same old situation🤦🏻👍👍

It was the decision of the board of directors and the head maintenance. This was for the basement and they technically didn't occupy that area of the building so it wasn't important to them. 🤷🏻‍♂️ You eventually learn to accept it's not your building and not your money. So whatever 😏