What’s weird is I drove it to olympia weeks before I sold it and really don’t notice any. I don’t know what to think of that.

That’s a lot of pressure 🤣 I’ll do my best! Much appreciated. I do have a small pile of small blocks myself though.

Remarkably easy actually… been there, done that. It’s close enough that the bolt holes line up so it’s possible to tighten them down and send it.

@@DeadDodgeGarage oil leak out of the back of manifold should have been huge.

@@bulta209 it wasn’t

Glad someone likes that 🤣

New Magnum heads are everywhere online so I wouldn’t worry. But I am using the heads for the new engine. I have had four other 318s that aren’t ruined listed for sale for the last two years here with no takers. If someone needs a block or three I’ve got them covered without this one.

Me neither 😁 the crack halfway up the back isn’t exactly ideal but I’m not throwing it away. Just not sure it’s worth saving for a future build as I had planned originally. I’ll probably just throw it back on the truck… some time…

It seems unlikely, and yet…

Confirmation may be found in the bottom end in regards to mashed out big end bearings or maybe even cracked piston ring lands . I have seen similar sorts of damage a few times before ( been doing head gaskets as part of my profession since the 1970's ) and it has always been eventually been tracked down to pinging ( long term ) . On alloy headed motors the gasket tends to blow out so fast that the pinging on the long term does not get a chance to do serious damage to the lower end , but with a big sturdy cast iron head it can go on for along time before something dramatic lets go . If memory serves me then if cranking compression is say 150 PSI then running compression will be about 1500 PSI , during pinging I think that number about triples - so 4500 PSI and I think during detonation ( pinging's big brother ) it goes up about 10 times again all though I can not remember if that is 10 times the normal combustion pressure or 10 times the pinging pressure , in any case the head bolts deflect momentarily ( stretch ) and once this goes on long enough eventually if something does not grenade in the reciprocating assembly then the head gasket gives out ! I hope that serves as some sort of explanation to my theory ! @@DeadDodgeGarage

@@skorner5798 very interesting. I should have looked more closely at all of these components for science before I let the remains of the engine sit outside in the weather for a few months... I will say, the rod bearings that I looked at really didn't show any crazy wear or evidence of damage. A couple of the main bearings had been hot and were starting to spin, but even they didn't look all that bad. It's strange. What I saw really seemed to indicate a somewhat sudden, complete lack of oil - to me, anyway.

I believe 340s must have had them too? But their removal is definitely an important part of any intake swap, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 340 that still had a factory intake.

@@DeadDodgeGarage I do have a 72 Duster 340 with the factory intake, Thermoquad carb, heads, manifolds etc... but I have never removed the intake as it is a good running engine. Eventually I will have to refresh the heads and I will see what I have there. Although I know this engine was rebuilt about 20 years ago, so who knows if they are still there. --- Just looked at some photos on eBay of the OEM 340 intake manifolds, and the manifolds do have the holes for the pins, so I would assume the 340's had them too.

Yes , 340's came from the factory with the pins . Someone probably switched intakes on yours and removed the pin .

I don’t think it would sell for $50 here. It needs a line bore and the crank piece scraped the rear saddles, but that’s probably ignorable. If someone wants a block to build a stroker, there are five more complete engines in my storage unit. They have been listed for sale for two years…

@@DeadDodgeGarage i guess america is easier to come across them old engines for dirt cheap then, canada 300 to 800 for a complete engine that might have ran when pulled but 9 out of 10 they need complete rebuilt and thats for ford dodge and gm blocks, like you said about your block with that damage only scrap yard would give you some money for it

@@johnk5577 Oh wow. Yeah - much, much easier. I could go find a run of the mill small block from any manufacture for a couple hundred bucks tomorrow. Obviously, special factory built performance engines are another story.

I agree. It’s odd. Those bolts only go… like 40 ft lbs? It doesn’t seem like it would be enough. I’m fairly sure the intake was brand new when it went on that engine. No machining.

Damn right!

Or six!

@@DeadDodgeGarage ready to run! To bad your 3000 miles away. I like that Clubcab.

Well… maybe.

I will either reuse it on the new engine in the truck, or save it for a future project. I’m not sure yet. What I was trying to say in the video was that I didn’t want it to go away on the truck, but after finding out it was cracked I didn’t care so much. Despite being cracked it’s absolutely still usable.

My storage unit is full of other, slightly less crappy 318s, and my shed is full of cedar, old carburetors, loose hardware and disappointment 😅

Ouch. Yeah… that’s not ideal. Much easier to rip apart multiple times in the truck.

I think I see how it happened. Somebody really, really wanted to put that intake on that 318, come hell or high water. Didn't know to remove the china wall pins, they hang up the install, so they make an jnaccurate measurement and drill the intake. Got frustrated since they could only get on side or the other, not both. Solution?- loosen up the head bolts on one head, get your intake bolts started, then crank down the head you loosened, finish cranking down intake bolts. They got it done!

While that would definitely do it, I know who put the intake on. He definitely didn’t drill those holes or loosen the heads. Haha. He also says the bolts lined up ok and it tightened down no problem. Apparently he didn’t hear the cracking happen. I distinctly remember it on the one I learned this lesson with… right! The scorch marks should definitely mean flames. You are much more the scientist than I am, Dan. I do look things over, but my methods are a little more… lazy? Haha. I’m definitely not as thorough as I could be. I just don’t really have the patience. I fired up that 360 I built in the shed today, and it sounds awesome! So at least I’ve got that going for me.

​@@dantupper1784 hey Dan I was telling a truck with my Dodge Magnum 3.9 Ram van. It was laboring up the hill and all of a sudden it started misfiring bad but it went on up the hill I was able to drive it back. It would only misfire when I was coming I was able to drive it back. It would still get up to speed but when coming to a stop if at a red light too long it would start smoking and misfiring. The number 6 plug was soaked in oil I changed it. The coil wires and cap. It was giving me a IAC code so I replaced that. It would run without smoking for about 5 minutes. After that it produces a huge cloud of smoke and does not go away it's way too bad to drive and it smokes up the neighborhood. I'm wondering if it is a valve seal completely gone. I'm also thinking what if the cat was plugged and called back pressure on the engine and then it fills with oil burn. It had never leaked any coolant and was always full. But I was able to add about a half of gallon to the radiator and there was a little rust in there that I had never seen before. I also seen the exhaust doing a vacuum type deal where it was looking like a valve might have been stuck.... But I haven't seen it so that again. I flushed engine oil refilled with 10w40 and added some blue devil stop smoke. It hasn't made any difference yet but like I said I'm not really able to drive it or run it very long because of the amount of smoke that it produces. Any help would be appreciated

Oh and as for burnt oil on the heads and valley it's from fire from the gaskets being blown. Remember fire is the devils only friend. Not inside your motor. 😅

Yeah I just don’t need the damn thing enough to warrant all that work… don’t have any big block bell housings around. The 318 was fine. Haha. Intake wasn’t pulling oil directly, those gaskets, while showing a weird witness mark, didn’t have any evidence of oil coming through. It was going from crankcase into six out of eight cylinders. All at the top. I have seen them not straight a good few times but it’s usually in the middle of the head. Having a hard time imagining that just machining could tip both heads up at the top.

@Dead Dodge Garage the factory machined the block wrong. So both sides are fuked. I have seen it several times on 318s and since they are forgiving motors they still had a long life. Also cast iron intakes are stronger and hold the motor together better. Aluminum flexes and moves a lot. Thus why you have to retorque them when you put them on. That motor is dead so let it rest in peace or pieces as it were.