Im glad the video helped out. I plan on revisiting the project when it warms up and going through some of the things i had to figure out on my own a bit more in depth. I know how much of a pain in the ass it is to try to figure stuff out. And for me, i got a lot of wrong information that cost me quite a bit of money throughout the build.

Also, dont be shy to ask questions. I have a running driving truck, so i should be able to help get you through most areas you get stuck on.

@@LSbullnose how did you do it with the gauges?

@@LSbullnose and the fuel system?

I used all new gauges. Mine are New Vintage gauges

Big time

I should let you know that i ended up changing my power steering pressure line to a JIC Hydraulic line. I kept blowing the ends off the 6AN Fittings. 90* on one end and a 45 on the other #6 JIC fittings, and they fit the 6an tapered fittings just fine. You can get those at most auto parts stores.

@@LSbullnose How long did it take to blow the end off? I've done the same thing on my Bronco's LS swap and haven't had any issues yet.

@@kryptofreak440 i ran it for a few months before i really started having trouble. But i believe a lot of that was because i had my rev limiter fairly low just to be cautious and i was working a lot of kinks out with the trans tuning and what not. As soon as i got the trans tuning dialed in i blew them one right after another. The first one popped on a 6k rpm burnout with the wheel turned. Thats the one that blew all over the headers and caught on fire. Seriously recommended just going hydraulic. Especially for as cheap as they are to have made, its really cheap insurance.

@@LSbullnose definitely, I get that! My local hydraulic shop was going to give me the hose to get it all measured but then I found the adapters to run the AN lines and decided to go that route

@@kryptofreak440 the cool thing is that you can run the same adapters. JIC and AN have the same tapered flare for the most part.

I need to get it back together. Tore apart for tc upgrades!

i do not have that part number, but i called East Coast Gear supply and they hooked it right up

I didnt have the stock chevy one. I just bought the motor and trans/tcase. However, if i was going to redo it, id look into a C10 radiator. I *think* the hoses are real frigging close to fitting.

Honestly im not sure. As i never had the gm radiator to compare to. But ive got a buddy who used a c10 radiator and i believe, but dont remember for sure, he was able to reuse all the gm hoses and what not. I know he changed his mounting system though

Sure it would be easier. But only because you can reuse your transmission, well and a carburator. Still need different frame towers and motor mounts. The ls can handle significantly more power than the Windsor. So for me the ls is the way to go. Not only that, I've never seen a stock Windsor bottom end rev to 7000. I rev the 6.0 to 7k with no issues

ok, where to start here... #1 try to find a wiring diagram for your specific year of truck, motor, trans etc. An auto mechanic can probably supply you with that for a fee. Just ask. You need the ignition circuit print out. #2 you will find the main power wire that comes from the battery in the diagram, thats the one that needs constant power, and will give you body power. #3 LS ecms have whats called PATS, Passive Anti-Theft System. This has to be disabled to use your key. HP Tuners, or one of the many online tuners out there can do that for you. #4 the before mentioned wiring diagram should have your starter wire and ignition wire on it, with the color codes, thats what you need to look at for tapping back into the GM ECM. #5 your stock harness in its stock form will not work. You need to either re-pin it and rework it (ive never tried that) or use another harness manufacturer that makes it easier.

As long as the pinion angles match it wont vibrate. For whatever reason my vibration has left. It didnt last very long after i posted this video and have no idea where it went. I love problems that fix themselves

I made my own mounts. I believe i show them in the video. I also used the stock trans crossmember and built a spacer for it to raise the trans up. Had to move the crossmember. Pretty easy to level it. Hold it with engine hoist. Make sure truck is level then just use a level on the engine. Tack in your 2 front mounts. Set it down with the trans on a jack and repeat leveling to desired position front to rear. Doesnt have to be perfect. But pinion and yoke angle matters. Have to get that the same

I used the stock ecm.

What you used for trans mount?

A tape measure and level to center it. I cut the entire stock frame tower and mounts out and started over. Trans mount is the stock cross member moved back a tiny bit with a spacer on it.

I messaged you. Haha. I had the engine in and running in 2 days. Probably a week or longer waiting on a few parts here and there. And a couple weeks to button it up. Most of that time was waiting on parts. Not counting the trans work i did, that was a couple days and a bunch of paper cuts and cleaning and prepping the engine before the swap. I spent some time on all that for sure.

I cut everything off the stock cross member that ford put on there. I did reuse the cross member, but I welded a plate over the large hole on the driver's side, then just added those motor mounts that I have listed in the description. I'd send you pics, but I'm out of town working at the moment so I don't have access to the truck.

Stock one

Oh man, its been a minute. I should probably make a video. But yeah, if you send me your email, ill hit u up

@@LSbullnose or the video would work better lol I been following waiting for the video

I used a sidewinder shifter and it comes with the cable

Very similar

I definately want to keep the bed looking good. Probably remount the battery to other side of engine bay and build and airbox. Have to worry about making sure the super charger fits first and figure out where to relocate the intake prior to worrying about battery.

I did have to move it. And i had to build a spacer that sits on top of the factory AOD rubber spacer. Didnt have to move it far.

I used the stock GM shaft and had it retubed to add an extra couple inches. I think i explained it in the video. But dont remember. Anyways. I swapped the rear pinion yoke for one that fit the gm sized u-joints. Cant even remember the size anymore. 1350s maybe

LS is very simple and makes good power. Plus way cheaper

It's the last link in the video description.

@LS Bullnose Ok thanks man appreciate it

@@LSbullnose so -6an to 1/2"-20 inverted flare

@@bradleydunford725 no prob. Best of luck!

@@bradleydunford725 so, it's been a bit since I've been into it. But If I remember right, one of those fittings is mega long, where it holds part of the trans online. So I do not know if you can use just a regular ole fitting

4l80e

Speed engineering

Not yet. I will though

Right now she's in bed. Haha

Ah there’s always one window licker in the room