Thank all mighty jeebles for making this short and not a f'ing hour long... bless you, sir

Thank You! After 2 hours of watching tutorials, yours is the ONLY one which explains the issue correctly and easily. Other videos simply show a mass of wires with the presumption that the viewer understands where all that spaghetti goes and what it does. Again, thanks!

That's the technique I use as well, except I like using a voltmeter instead of an ammeter. With a voltmeter when you turn on the key, you instantly see the static voltage of the battery and also instantly see the initiation of the alternator output with the increase of voltage simultaneously with the LED shutting off. The ammeter is also a great way to see the output, but if your battery is fully charged and requires very little alternator output to recharge, the ammeter movement could only be a blip and a bit hard to discern. Of course that's in reference to a tractor with little or no external electrical load beyond the starting or ignition load. Good concise and informative video. Don't listen to the naysayers, we know this works.

This is the best video on this subject. I actually feel I can go and install my new alternator on my butchered old tractor

This was a great video! Easy to watch and concise. Got my old international R120 converted and runs better than ever

Great straight forward explanation of how/why to run the wiring on a diesel machine. thanks! I'm converting my 1965 International Harvester tractor from generator to alternator. I've got the 10SI alternator ordered and on the way. Now to buy some 10 AWG wire, a light and an ampmeter.

You are the BEST!!! I have been waiting for 5 YEARS for this information and you made it clear and concise. I have a Fordson Power Major. One of the BEST DIY videos on KZfaq! Cant wait to get to my machine.

Excellent advice regarding the alternator "chassis-to-engine-block" negative cable. This eliminates the negative current from trying to use the alternator mounting for continuity. Wtih the distance to/from the ammeter and then to the battery, I would use at least an 8 gauge circuit. If using a volt meter in lieu of an Ammeter, the charge circuit will be shorter, possibly allowing for a smaller gauge. Although in the Marine world, yellow is now used for Negative, for years black has been synomonous with Negative. I would suggest using a colored (other than yellow) wire for any Positive conductors. If I may elaborate some re; 3.54 into the video. With the use of an Ammeter, that circuit runs first to the ammeter..... then to the battery. If I may elaborate again re; 4:05 into the video, the Self Exciting 10si (what some call the "one wire" 10si) does indeed require a bump in RPM in order to become excited. However, once excited, it will remain excited until engine shut-down. FYI..... technically speaking, there is no "ground" in a 12 vdc system. Positive and Negative only.

Best video on this topic that I have found!!! Well done

Really helpful! Thanks for being so clear and concise.

What a great video! Clear cut and to the point! Thanks!

Great video man, makes perfect sense. Thanks for posting!

Great video I have not done one this way in like 20 years forget everything to do thanks for the help man

After watching some other vids about installing an alternator on a low rpm engine (garden tractor), I finally figured out why my "one wire" alternator wasn't putting out anything. Thanks.

I put a VW Vanagon Alternator (1986-1991) 90amp on my Ford 7500 Backhoe and thanks to you I figured out to excite it I put Ignition voltage to the B+ terminal Happy Day! Thanks

Absolutely GREAT!! I love that old Allis! You are spot on about connecting the terminal one wire to the ACC post on the ignition sw. Not many people know that! Nice work my man...

I wish others made helpful and clearly explained videos. My respects bud. No hollywood intro or other bs 👍

THAT IS WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR ON HOW TO HOOKUP THE WIRING! THANKS FOR THAT HOOKUP INFOMATION

Very good instructions simplified it really done a great job

Very clear instructions,Thank you.

Great job on this video! I have a Duce and half made into a log prehauler with a 350 engine, been having an issue with it not charging for quite some time, did all sorts of rewiring and asking know it alls and watching ‘way to long ‘ videos, nothing worked. Watched your video, did exactly as you said - it all works perfectly- thank you !

Thanks for the additional explanation regarding the idiot light function.

quick and to the point . ride on.

I followed the steps in the video very closely and it worked perfectly

Good video. Clear commentary.

Worked great. I'm running an alternator off of the rear axle of a homemade trike. It starts charging at 25-30 mph and keeps battery up good 👍

Thankyou, been struggling with my massey 65 for a while now.

Great video, great to the point information! Headed out to do this now. Thanks!

Thank very much for your information on how to wire a one wire alternater up I have a ih b275 which iv had problem's makeing it charger you have helped me alot thanks once again

Awesome explanation. Its kinda counterintuitive how a 1 wire alternator needs like 5 wires

Best video I’ve seen,no nonsense.Wish I found you first

Awesome video and explanation!

Great help. Thanks a lot.

Excellent video thank you!

Thanks for the show.

concise and beautifully explained

It worked thanks

Great video. Thank you.

Tip when adding this on heavy eqipment the Excited wire should go to a 2 terminal oil presser switch you install. So it not so hard on starting am battery in cold weather. This way the alternator not trying to charge putting load on starter an battery until oil presser is up. Machines from factory are wire like this. Can't tell you how many guys think the alternator bad when it's a failed oil presser switch.. make so much easier starting. With out the load of the alternator.

excellent will do this on my 3550 ford tlb backhoe

Thank you for your video very helpful 😊

Good information I’m wiring a John Deere backhoe thanks

Super Job man , thanks

thank you for your sharing sir.

great video

Good video well done

International trucks from the 70s had an alternator like this and they had no light for the alternator. They just had 1 wire coming from the accessory of the key switch to terminal #1 and a jumper going from terminal #1 to terminal #2. This is how I wire all my tractors. They only time there is a problem is if the tractor doesnt have an accessory terminal on the key switch so you have to wire the exciter wire to the ignition terminal on the key switch and sometimes they want to back feed and the engine wont shut off when you turn off the key. This is easily fixed by wiring in a diode between the key switch and the terminal #1. This diode only allows the power to flow in one direction and prevents back feeding.

Thank you for your video ..

Nice thanks

That is actually a three wire alternator. A one wire alternator only has one wire from Batt on alternator to positive on the battery. A one wire alternator does not require the light because they are self exciting and do not require the light to create a load excitement. It is actually better that you are using a three wire alternator because the typical true one wire alternator contains junk diodes that go bad. When the diodes in a one wire alternator fail, the battery will bleed down through the alternator and kill your battery. The three wire alternators are much more durable due to tried and true diodes and they are 30% cheaper. So actually what you have done is shown a method for wiring a 3-wire alternator which is better than a true one wire alternator.

Good informative video

Thank you

Awesome

Good video

Thanks good 👍

Really nice can you do another one with the blueprints please

Very descriptive

Great video. Yes there aren't many video's on wiring tractors. I'm replacing a wiring harness on a 5040 Allis Chalmers that has an old harness that has chopped up, spliced wires and missing wires. I got a new harness with no labels on the wires so I'm trying to figure out where they all go. My new harness has two wires with the alternator main wire. The Tractor has a Delco Remy alternator just like the one in this video. The dash has a volt meter gauge with a scale from 10 to 17 and says battery voltage.

I put 1 wire alternatorsGM110 amps straight from-the one post to the positive post on the battery, I have never ever had any problems,with battery or alternator, no need for anything in the wire ,just run a wire to the post +, on p.s. you will need a bigger pulley on tractor’s,they will self excite on it own,

Good

Thanx

Thanks for the video. The AC Delco alternator uses an exciter wire with a diode. Is a diode wire necessary?

i have a tractor with the same 10si on it. and the battery was getting low. now i know why. there were no wires onto the leads. have to rewire and thank you very much.

By far the best video out there. I have a Massey 50 industrial loader with a push button start and mechanical stop, the existing generator failed years ago and I plan to convert using your design but with a toggle on off switch in place of a key start seeing that this system is working. Do you see any problems?

You can also add a resitor instead of a light. I use short peace resistor wire as jumper

I have a gas Massey 165 I’m wanting to hook a one wire alternator up to. Is the process the same? When I took off the old alternator, there’s a wire running from 2 to the dash and no jumper to the positive alternator output from the terminals which is opposite of how you did it. Not sure which way is correct.

Good video! Doing this next weekend. I seen on another video that it's necessary to use 10 and 12 gauge wire. ???

🔥

Could you list all the supplies and links where to buy them?

Nice tutorial, although I think I fried my ammeter! 😳

Easy enough

Thanks for this video! I have an old Delco 10SI alternator but it has 3 flange connections + the Batt Output, 1, 2 and R. How would this differ?

Is there anything I need to do differently if I have a positive ground system?

Very well done love the simplicity. Only wish I could have a diagram 🙂

Will this work? (this is how my Massey wiring diagram shows it): The wire from the LED goes to a post on the oil pressure switch (instead of an accessory terminal of the switch). And also, the F (#2) terminal on the alternator is wired to the negative side of the amp guage, which is then wired to the Bat terminal of the solenoid. So it has 12V all the time to the F, but only has power to R when there's oil pressure? The ignition switch only has one wire in and one wire out (to the S solenoid terminal)-its just "off" or "start".

If your tractor does my have that led light does the excitor wire go to the accessory position on the ignition switch?

How would you wire in a neutral safety switch on this system?

Did as you but start the tractor & alternated does not kick in still have to rave for it to kick in number 1 to the light in dash turn switch on light comes on number 2 to starter positive.I have a volt meter.

Do you need the number exciter wire on a one wire alternator

Question: on the ignition switch are there any other wires besides the one coming from the led light? Thanks for this very helpful vid.

So why the difference for if you are running accessories like lights and fans?

Two questions. 1. What is the downside to simply going from the battery to the alternator stud? 2. I've read Ammeters can be fire hazards. Why might this be? How do we prevent?

so does the red light go out after starting?

Im kinda lost do you put a wire from the positive on battery to the alternator? To send the charge to the battery. And with the ignition switch how does it go to the starter? I gotta run all new on a chipper i just bought. Please help lol

The starter has a main power from battery terminal. It also has an s and r terminal. S wire goes to the neutral switch and then to the ignition switch. Where does the wire from the r terminal on the starter solenoid go to

Do you need to use an LED light or can you run terminal one directly to ignition

Could you hook the ground directly to the battery if you were using an auxiliary alternator?

Where did you get the led light from

Do you need an ammeter in series or can I go straight from alternator output to the battery?

From the amp meter does the negative side go to the positive connection?

Im going to rewire my 1466 international harvestors alternator been having trouble with the battery staying charged long enough to run the knife on the net wrap part of the baler. Has to have 13.1 v or it throws an error code and wont cut just wastes a bunch of twine. Thought the alternator was hooked up properly but when my dad was alive i recall him saying if u didnt rev it over 1500 rpm the alternator wouldnt charge at an idle. So that was simply cause he didnt run another wire to the ignition so it would excite as the key turned on instead of just when it was above idle? Also wanted to ask if it would be better to take the wire from the numer 2 post that u connected right back to the alternator would it be better to connect it to the battery or absolutely connect it to the positve alternator cable? I just want to be sure is all before i screw something up and burn my grandfathers tractor up. Is the positive starter post where i should connect at to run a block to attach lights to and such? I dont have radio in there just some lights i normally hooked to the battery to turn on.

why would run the wire coming off the ampmeter to the starter post? do you mean the solenoid? what about to the battery, I guess it would go to the positive terminal?

This is a 3 wire, not a 1 wire.

What does it mean when your in Decatur lights on them when you go to starter for shuts off

does the LED light create enough load to excite the alternator, LEDs have very little draw, compared to an incandescent bulb.

Great video, but I would have liked to seen a wiring diagram either on a piece of paper or on white board and then leave camera on diagram for like 10 sec or so or link wiring diagram in the description or both. Thanks

My Ferguson doesn't have an accessory. The key is momentary on, with a manual cutoff, where would the exciter wire go?

Decent instruction. Ever heard of a paper and pen to draw a picture to make it easy?

So my tractor doesn't have an acc post on the ignition switch. It only has two terminals. Would I connect that wire to the output terminal?

Hello again.... fyi, my alt had evidently died. Do you happen to know a part number or where I can find a one wire, self exciting, low rpm output replacement? (Vern B)