It feels like often, they are a bit more varying in beta.

Imo most mens climbs are all about just using strength to climb, while womens incorporate a lot more technique and flair, but I'm just a hobbyist so maybe I'm missing smth

I do too, I think it’s because men’s climbs are always brute force and strength, while the women add flair and focus more on technique. Also I don’t like watching the men, because since I’m a man myself, I start backseat-climbing and get tilted because the guy didn’t catch that hold, even though I couldn’t get off the ground probably

I totally agree, the ladies use much more technique.

Same here

Sweaty hands too

What made me cry was the crowd, especially the excitement of little girls for having such a strong woman role model being the best in a traditionally mens sport. Something about that touched me a lot.

What made me cry was the crowd, especially the excitement of little girls for having such a strong woman role model being the best in a traditionally mens sport. Something about that touched me a lot.

Thanks mate 😁

Laura Rogora is anoexic. She should be forbidden to compete till She fixes her eating disorder. Ai Mori is not much better.

In the IFSC official channel 😃

@@DonkeyClimbMedia On KZfaq or TV

@@santim5863 KZfaq. I guess there must be another channel, but KZfaq is the one I use

I can only see the highlights sadly not the whole stream

In Koper Slovenia

Mori is 154

Yet all the other climbers, including the 2nd place fell before the big dyno move to the last hold... everything below that was quite manageable for all of them, regardless of height. Actually, the shortest climber of them all, found better ways of solving some problems without being overly dynamic. At this point, you cannot really believe Janja wouldn't climb it if it would favor smaller female climbers, or any type of climber at all.. or do you?

i personally think ai mori was just too tired and didn’t have enough strength left. she climbed way slower than normal, so she didn’t have time to rest like janja did, that’s why the moves seamed way harder for her

I think Janja is an brilliant climber. Her onsight ascents of outdoor 8Cs are among the best female or male achievements. I am sure she would never want or need to compete on an unfair basis. Nevertheless she is. The boulder competition at Bern and the final moves on the lead wall at Koper strongly disadvantaged the shorter climbers. The implications of this are if you are a woman below 1.6m there is no point in going in for womens competitive sports climbing....this would be a terrible loss to the sport. Did Slovenia route setters set the final moves to deliberately disadvantage Ai Mori ? I don't know and I guess there is no way of knowing but the final moves made sure it was unlikely she would top out.@@Amatsuichi

At this point, you would need to build special routes for Janja only, because if the moves are too short, they would be to easy for her, if they are to long and dynamic - there is at least some %chance, she may mess it up and fall... Doing hand-crafted routes for shorter climbers is simply not possible as all those routes will be much easier for those who have the height - they may even be able to skip some holds. So the only way would be ultra hard crimpy old style routes - which are not modern anymore these days. I still do think, that Ai would have been able to do the last dyno, but she fell several steps below it.@@rojawall7101

@@rojawall7101b.s. They take into the account height of every climber. How come nobody ever mentions how undernourished Ai Mori is, which definitely ruins her strength and stamina !

ah typical shit with Ai. you don't see people complaining about tall(er) competitors how their thighs don't fit or how it's uncomfortable to fit into the box 🙄 you have weaknesses? work around them. pf.

yet she fell before the last move, not on it... and found better - static solutions to other moves than the taller climbers, so your argument about her being too short isnt really valid here... she is climbing just fine even though she is too short... she may have much bigger issues in bouldering where heavy jumping is required, but in lead, she has her own advantages and a pretty stellar technique

no way it has to do with height. ai mori was just too tired and didn’t have enough strength left. she climbed way slower than normal, so she didn’t have time to rest like janja did, that’s why the moves seamed way harder for her, not because she’s short