No problem. I’m very glad it helped!

Lol. the scope of all possible issues one comes across during a diagnosis, sadly, tends to overwhelm most people (mechanics included).

The trick to yellow (airbag connectors) all you do is disconnect the starting battery, wait 2 full minutes, then disconnect the yellow connectors.

That's true Mike. However, I was extremely limited on time that day. I commiserated many times afterward over exactly that.

You are very Welcome!

Sorry, been away. It's the tumblers most likely. The ignition switch would be a consistent problem turning. Since it's not all the time, u should change the ignition lock cylinder

Any luck?

Yes it's the switch

Same boat

If you're still having problems, it may be a broken actuator pin. On the 99 caravan I worked on it had this mechanism between the key cylinder and the ignition switch. Right there in the steering column. I also replaced the starter because it still wouldn't start after I fixed the actuator. Had to jump it off, too. Check your relays and fuses also.

Hey Jordan. Sorry for the late reply So, starters are pretty simple, but how the whole electrical system interacts can be a bit difficult to explain in just a message. I believe it's time for me to make a video explaining how everything ties together. That said, does the starter sound strong while its turning the engine over those few revolutions, before it starts? Or does it labour and sound tired? Also, does it reliably crank, Every single time you try to start the engine?

How do you know the relays are good? Did you switch them out with others that are the same to test them?

@@da324 yes I did replace them

It sounds like the screen module he was talking about in the beginning is faulty. Like he said it picks up on the chip when the key is inside thats when you can start the car. So it probably just thinks the key is always inside

Justin Gibson sounds like you will need a steering colum

@@MJBclassics yes it was the pcm. Along with the electical system got fried somehow.

Ok, year later, the INCNS problem has gotten bad enough, finally got around tuit. I need to see if, with the ignition switch in place and key-turnable, why voltage is not seen on T751 (yellow) at C7 pin 2. Guess I'll try to use the ol needle through the wire trick with the switch back in-place. Sounds like a pain, but between here, pin 4 on the ignition switch (yellow), and pin 2 on C7 in the IPM (still yellow, still expecting 12v, but not seeing as stated) is the C200 connector block under the dash, which looks like a real pain to mess with and of course, first things first, hope passes a continuity test across this pathway from pin 4 ignition to pin 2 C7. After that, the key turn trial.

Final result: The pin 4 yellow start wire can be stuck thru with a sewing needle quite easily without removing the switch. Then the continuity test from there to C7 pin 2 first proves that the needle actually has good contact, and further that there is no wiring or contact problem in between like perhaps in the C200 box. thankfully. So the switch has to come out now because the problem appears to be isolated to it. This switch (black cover instead of white as seen in the vid) is easily opened to reveal the turned-green dielectric-greased up corrosion of the copper, the worst on the start contact lands, which had actually allowed a weak voltage reading of about 0.1. This grease-infused corrosion would never get better by itself. Job for bounty towel then Dr Dremelington Steel Brush and new dielectric grease.

Call the dealer.

Wow, that's an incredible workaround!

@@wolfiestechbites3773 gotta do what you gotta do sometimes when funds are low and you have to get around

@@coinslotsandjoysticks2572 I tried it but it just kept turning off and finally it won't even crank anymore

Ok how can I do that to mine

@@torrischappell7339 msg me tomorrow and I'll help you fix yours, I'll walk you through it

key has to be progammed to your ecm

Use the old keys. The ignition switch is just a mechanical switch to send power to ignition circuits. The security comes from the key and key hall effect sensor that reads the embedded chip inside the key head. If you use a key with the correct cut teeth, but the wrong chip code, the security will shut off the fuel injectors. (Most security systems work like this)

Thanks for your reply, I think I am getting a bit mixed up.. the other day I could not turn my key...I call a tow truck and the guy wiggles the key aggressively and it turned.. So I need the key cylinder, I was calling it the switch.. So from what I find on here , I buy a new key cylinder, and then I need to copy the placement of the tumblers from the old to the new , in order for my old keys to work with the new cylinder.. Would you think I am on the right track... The new cylinder comes with new keys , but I think if I did it that way I would need the dealer to program the keys, unless you can put the new keys in turn the ignition on , and somehow it programs the new key...not sure , but appreciate your video..Thankyou.

Can anyone tell me the color diagram of a 1980,Chrysler ignition switch

It's your antitheft that's on thats the red dot.

Might need to be programmed.

Most of these vans wont show a code for the stalling issue unless its directly related to a component the computer scans. Even a $4000 Mac 10 scanner shows nothing on some of these issues. Theres many other tests to perform with a multimeter, scope, probes, amp meter. If only anyone could just slap a scanner on it and have a pin point answer.

Actually, a scanner will most often lead mechanics down a very expensive rabbit hole. As the old saying goes, Keep it Simple Stupid (KISS) applies here. A wiring diagram for the circuit is a better start sometimes. A flowchart (included in some dealer service manuals) is also of great value. Never - Ever! - Believe some mechanic that says “his scanner” no matter how much he paid, will accurately show the issue ….. one’s brain and experience, and Emotional detachment, from the problem. Are a far more valuable tool

+Derrick Spagnola , more details please. Why alt and battery were changed? What was happening to change them. And if you disconnect the plug in At the A/C pump, does that stop the stalling?

@@wolfiestechbites3773can you help me out on color code on a 1980 Chrysler incision switch3

@@martincomfort6297 your local auto parts supply store should be able to do that. Or if they cant, try the auto wreckers. A lot of the wreckers have been in the business since their teens and know their stuff. Ask around a few places and ask for the most experienced person (if they don't seem to know).

M Carr it's likely that the replacement PCM is not expecting the frequency of the key chip. you can either replace the skreem/ignition lock cylinder/ key and ignition switch from the parts vehicle, or you can teach the PCM to accept the key that works in the existing lock.

First of all, Thank you for the response. The doner vehicle does not have a skreem system to my knowledge. The key is just a standard one. "no alarm".

Merry christmas. I have a 2004 dodge caravan. Old steering colum. Ignition was Damaged. I. Tool it out i replace. It with a. New steering colum with key. But i. Cant get it to. Turn over. Can somebody help me out.

Not even a t10, its a security t10!!!

Does it turn off when You jiggle the key over and over?

yo bro good wht So, you changed the 5/2 coil, wires and plugs. If this is the case, did you check compression in the affected Cylinders? Did You Vise Grip a new plug to a Clean ground and then hooked up the brand new wire, removed the fuel pump relay, and then had someone crank the engine, while you were watching? Bright blue or white spark? Or red/yellow spark?

+yo bro good wht if you have a mechanic's stethoscope, use it to listen for the fuel injectors on number 2 and number 5 to see if they are clicking. If they do it's likely they are spraying but they may have water droplets stuck in the injector tip. If this is the case, put some methyl hydrate into the gas tank, to break up the water drops. The absolute best way to assure that the water in the injectors is gotten rid of his to take the fuel filter off, install a new fuel filter with one third of the filters total capacity full of methyl hydrate, install it, turn the key on and off a few times to Prime the fuel system, and then try to see if it will run better. A good hard acceleration run (not speeding) is usually enough to eradicate any water contamination.

That depends. If it is the only copy you have, contact the dealer. They can manufacture a new key from the Vin code and proof of ownership (this may be a waste of money as the tumblers may have worn out, but it usually works but will need coding). Test the key to make sure it turns the lock and lights the dash lights, you can take the key back inside the dealership and ask them to code the key to work with the PCM (fancy name for the computer than controls the engine and the transmission.) After coding it will start. Most of the time they will just quote a price that may include a brand new ignition lock cylinder and that can get pricey. Hence why I suggest you approach them with the hope that the tumbler pins aren’t too worn out and then go from there. Alternatively, you can approach the dealer to get a key code from the Van’s vin code (with proof of ownership or them just knowing you and bring the customers/ or your own papers in) so that you can get a locksmith to make a plain steel key without a chip, just to test the lock. If it works on the door and the ignition, you can take it to the dealer and have them program an new chipped key to the van and then they can cut it to match the steel key or you can take it to the locksmith to cut to the steel key patter or even the code you got previously. Make a few calls and discuss options

Also, you can buy an aftermarket lock cylinder and change it out as they come with a new chipped key I believe (call your parts store and have them look in the box for a plastic head coved ignition key. They sometimes come with two)

What was your final solution? I am in the same boat? No crank - no clicks - starter turns when jumpered at the relay. I am about to change my ignition switch. I hope it solves things. My last thing to do is the PCM/ECM.

​@@justinbecker3340Justin. I'm in the same predicament. Did you have the red dot on the dash?

@@xlargetophat yes

The red dot means no communication to the computer. The new PCM remedied the red dot and all is perfect again.

Did I post how I fixed mine? I purchased a new PCM from a company in Florida for only $200... preprogrammed to my VIN for my 2003 Town and Country... perfectly easy and effective. Saved my van. I am beyond happy at fixing it myself. Saved a ton of money.

Yeah, sounds like a challenge. I once fixed a 96 model that had very similar issues by slapping down, open palm, on top of the dash cover pad, just at top crown of instrument cluster, with ignition on and no lights and no start issue present. Crank key while smacking down. Then van started and dash flickers and intermittent issues stopped. Apparently, they have issues where the solder that connects the main female plug at back of cluster to the interior circuit board. Too much heat over time and it partially de-solders itself. Try the hand smash and if that makes it flicker or change, noticeably, replace cluster with a remanufactured one (if possible, or a low mileage recycled unit... and also filling all male plugs from harness, that plug into cluster, with dielectric silicone. Permatex tune up grease is an example. Good luck!

And make Damn sure the battery clamps and posts are scraped with a sharp knife after wire brushing and coat shiny posts and clamps with dielectric silicone and tighten. Also check battery cable where it crimps onto sheet metal clamp for green or black deposits, might have to replace clamps and / or cables/clamps if they didnt give enough slack (which I believe is their pattern for those years) I have found, in many cases, where a vehicle will start, but immediately stall or run poorly and have multiple issues with Low Draw circuits (including computing) when there is that much lead oxide and corrosion between battery and main circuits. Starters will draw 1000 amps right thru all that invisible corrosion, but the circuits that operate at 5v or very low milliamps will continually collapse and fail under operating conditions because they dont have the amps to pull thru the bad terminals/clamps.