I keep my toys drained when I am not planning on using them for a while and still hold my breath when I put that first fuel in for the spring shakedown, so far, I haven't had to do anything more than fill the tanks every spring.

I have heard from chainsaw owners and saw videos on KZfaq, like Chickanic, that will run the saw dry and remove any residual fuel, then put straight 2cycle oil in the tank and purge the oil through the carb to keep the diaphragms soft and pliable. Especially for long time storage. The residual fuel will harden the diaphragms.

Nice easy fix. My mini chainsaw is battery powered. Only gets used for pruning trees.

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing! 👍

Hear the noise from the chain/sprocket? Notice how quickly the chain stops moving when RPMs dropM Now it's a little too tight. Safer than too loose, but qhite risky for the machine. You want to tighten it enough that it doesn't have any sag, but loose enough that it still moves freely. Moving the chain my hand with the engine off will give you a good feel for the tenstion/friction. Too loose and it will derail, too tight and it makes a LOT of friction (think of it as a long high-speed brake band) this heat will transfer to the bar and to the clutch assembly. If the clutch gets too much additional heat added to it (and remember, clutches ALREADY get quite hot) it will wreck the crank bearing and/or the crankcase seal on the PTO side. Too tight also chews up bar rails and nose sprockets very quickly. I'm not knocking you at all. I don't intend to come off preachy. There was a time when I didn't know myself, and chainsaws have a lot of nuance and general rules to learn. I have spent a large portion of my life heating with wood and with additional production for sale. Enough that I keep two professional chainsaws inside my house ready to go at all times, and usually run a saw at minimum 1 day per week, often more.

Those little Pre-StratoCharge Poulan saws are fun and easy to work on. For what they are, they are not a half bad little tool. If you take the muffler apart and open a hole in the front where the big dimple is and close up those louvers in the back that blows up against the aluminum plate, re-tune the carb and it will really wake up the power.

I use a full tank of Tru-fuel and oil so the saw is readyn to go. Good video and Blessings!

Awesome little saw. I empty out all the fuel & then purge the fuel system with 2Cycle oil.

Nice catch on that one👍🏻 I just do not use "gasoline". I use either 100ll avgas or canned alkylate fuel. Neither one has ethanol nor will they turn to varnish. For me, as a user, hobbyist and collector with 20+ pieces of 2 cycle equipment, those fuels pretty much eliminate the need to drain fuel for storage! Also... I don't drain bar oil, just check/add before next use.

My Saws get used often. I don't do anything special but I will add stabilizer if I know I won't be using it for the rest of the season.

You're the man, you stared!

I keep mine dry when i'm not going to use then for a while. But i have that same saw that doesn't want to stay running right and i think it might need new crank seals

i store all of my small engines with fuel in them. i use high octane ethanol free stabilized fuel though. i also run them once a month at least

I use true fuel or motomix and keep them full. My thought is metering diaphragm might get crunchy in the carb if it’s left dry. New to your channel, enjoying it so far ! 👍🏻

Love it

To answer your question, I keep fuel in my chainsaws. I started mixing SeaFoam into all my small engine gas including two strokes. I run super unleaded now with 1 oz per gallon of SeaFoam in all my small engine gas. The reason for this is that 3 times now, I haven’t had to tear things apart with old gas in them that didn’t run right. 3 times I’ve had engines that had something clogged in the carbs because of sitting for an extended period of time. And three times I’ve tried adding SeaFoam to the gas, running the engine and then letting it sit for a time. Three times, the running issue has been solved by doing this. The engines were an arctic cat 340 snowmobile, a Honda harmony lawnmower and a tecumseh snow king snowblower engine and in all cases, running a rich mix of SeaFoam to gas ratio has solved the problem so now I just mix 1 oz per gallon in everything.

ive got a sanli chain saw and it starts but dies straight away so i pulled the carby off and all the Diaphragms are bad so im just waiting for them to arrive as it was running fine a few months ago and for left in the sun with fuel in it

Was the Oiler lubricating the bar and chain. The cardboard test.😊

So I got a question completely unrelated to this so I got an older echo chainsaw it’s a 300 evl. And about December 2022 I put it up and didn’t start it for a good 3/4 of the month and now it’s not starting

IHC quick question totally not related to this video which was awesome btw, but do you know if the Bolens bl160 weed eater has a clutch? I can't find anything online about it and don't want take it apart if I don't have to. Thank you for any and all help you've helped me with

I use only echo red armor with fuel additives in it already

Sir my poulan 2150 will prime fuel into the carb but it doesn't exit out of the return line to the tank. It was leaking out of the carb, out of the adjustment screws, and pooling underneath. I just replaced the carb, lines, and bulb and it's still doing the same thing. I don't know what else it could be.

normally in my view i would use the good old Fuel Stabilizer and i have never had a problem with those liquids plus fewer starting issues too etc.

I got to squeeze my throttle for mine to start is my idle speed to low otherwise it runs any suggestions for it

I don't run the fuel out of my chainsaw when I store it, though I do empty the bar oil out has mine has a self feeding oil line and it will leak out while sitting. Now I only made the remark about not running the fuel out before storing it because mine happens to be an electric chainsaw so I don'[t have to worry about. ;-)

nice piece of spalted maple you cut...

I put away with fuel in. One of them has the spiral diaphragm in it so the fuel wont affect it much, and it gets ran at least monthly to keep fuel fresh in it. And the other we just got, and have been using it. That one l would be more apt to run dry because of the size of it, and the likelihood of needing/wanting it monthly. And they get 100% gas with Echo red armor that says it has stabilizers in it, and l put Amsoil fuel treatment in it too just for extra insurance.

I wish there was a way i could find a to get a new cylinder and piston for model super clean poulan from 1999 my cylinder is bad and doesn’t have enough compression to start

My 4000 counter vibe has a leak in the gas tank when I tried to start it it started then I filled up the gas and tried to start it it tried to start but made a weird noise and smoke a little that's when I found the fuel leak

The chain definitely has to be re adjusted otherwise it ran great

All my equipment is drained empty of fuel. Small amount of time to drain the fluids to make sure you’re not spending lots of money and time in repairs when you finally need to use it.

Morning

I thought storing dry would dry everything out in the carb and filter?

Since I use my chainsaws through-out the year I don't really need to empty them.

All my equipment I put it up with a empty fuel tank 👍🙏👍🙏

that saw has a really noisy chain

I think it's the Leatherface chainsaw replica.

Dry

Running a little lean...