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Ride quality

Nothing it’s sick af

Any lift on any truck will decrease ride quality, but not by a whole bunch. You MIGHT notice it. You probably won't (and if you do, you won't care it is so small of a change). Lifted vehicles do use more fuel to travel down the road. There is a very slight decrease in gas mileage when you lift any vehicle/truck. Road noise is another thing that will increase, but, again, only slightly. You can hear this while driving next to any reasonably-lifted truck. None of the "perceived negatives" are large enough to not lift your truck. I've lifted several, both 2wd and 4wd, and they all look quite pretty. The 2ND GEN Dodge Ram has 16-inch tires for stock. Sixteen inch truck tires are hard to find nowadays, as most trucks currently have stock 20 inch tires. So many folks just want to add a small lift for clearance for a bigger tire on their 2wd truck, and 4wd trucks always are good for a lift for practical purposes of off-roading. (FYI: If lifted enough, Dodge 2nd Gens will take up to a 33 inch tire.)

Agree to all except the last part. My 2nd gen is 2WD, stock height front with a 2" rear drop and I'm running 33's (275/60r20 = 32.99x10.6-something) with zero rub. Granted, that's on 3rd gen 20s, BUT... The wheel wells on 2nd gens are so big, you should be able to run larger than a 33 with just about any lift as long as you're not still running the factory 16s.

Thanks man, I appreciate that. It's my fault though, really. I don't upload enough to catch "the algorithm's" attention. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Glad I could help! Hope all goes well with the replacement.

Nice! Glad to help out!

@@Basslicks82 gracias por tu atención....

Thanks! How'd your install go?

Glad I could help, thanks for watching!

Your welcome. Thanks for watching!

Happy to be of service. Glad you liked the video!

Awesome, man! Glad I could help. Thanks for watching and enjoy your truck!

Haha! Yeah the extra 90-something lbs I was carrying around at the time of the video helped in the making of that face. Thanks for the info, I'll try and pin that comment so the HD crowd can see it.

Danny hizzle what did you end up doing I’m dealing with it right now

Gio o, I had previously replied to Danny, but my comments got wiped from all my videos when I transitioned to a brand channel 🙄 The a-arm that the upper ball joint fits into pivots up and down. Should be able to force it downward enough to get it to slide over the ball joint. Might have to have someone help you angle the steering knuckle so that you can get it into the correct position. You can also take a pry bar and pry the arm downward if need be.

I was having the same issue on my truck (99' dodge ram 1500 2wd extended cab) and ended up removing the spacers because the spring would not compress and was lifting up from the lift. Mabey if I use a spring compressor it would work? Idk I want to try to install them again.

A spring compressor would work fine. Just make sure you get a quality one that has clips on it to fully encapsulate the coil winding. Also be sure to tighten them evenly from side to side. Couple cranks at a time and you'll be fine. Another thing you can try (with a helper) is a long pry bar forcing the a-arm down so that you can get the ball joint started in its place enough to thread the nut on.

Thanks! Yes, it's highly recommended. Mine was fine when I was living in Florida on smooth roads. That all changed when I moved to Kentucky though.

@@Basslicks82 Im trying to figure out what length ? the front lifted 2.25" Doing 3" leveling Block tommorow.

If you only lifted the front 2.25", you might be fine. Mine was a 3" lift in the front. Didn't be a problem until my suspension bounced up on a really rough bump and overextended my shocks. Thing you have to realize is, with independent front suspension, the shocks are at the fulcrum of the arc. Meaning they travel a lot less than the wheel and tire. So 3" of "lift" (moving the fenders 3" away from the tires) translates to about 1"-1.5" of lift where the shocks mount to. My coil spacer for 3" of lift was somewhere between 1.25"-1.5"

Did they?

They are a little long but they seem to work good.

@@cowboykanukwylie4402 did that raise your truck higher?

@@jordantaylor7709 negative

Shocks won't add any height unless they are load assisting shocks. Identified by springs around the shock bodies. Otherwise, the only thing shocks do is essentially control the speed or rate that the suspension reacts to bumps.

Justin VanHaitsma awesome thanks!

Basslicks and Big Tires I’m sorry the shocks aren’t compressed it’s the springs can you dm me your number

Basslicks and Big Tires I couldn’t find longershocks for the truck it’s a 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9L 12v Cummins

There’s no way to fix how it rides take them back off and there’s a huge difference

Absolutely get longer shocks. The spacers hold up just fine. My front shocks blew out though because of overextension. As long as you get the truck professionally aligned after installing the lift, tire wear is a non-issue. Handling is no different than lifting any other vehicle. Center of gravity changes, so you have to be mindful of that. Ride quality... Not the greatest. It's not dump truck, but it's not factory anymore for sure. It's a bit stiffer. If I'd have stayed in Florida, I would've left the lift on. Being in Kentucky though with rougher roads, it was annoying.

@@Basslicks82 Do you have recommendations for shocks. I'm having a terrible time finding reasonable priced shocks for this.

I honestly don't. I ended up removing the lift before getting new shocks for it. Just look around for shocks that are 2-3" longer or get shock spacers. Don't really need anything special.

Sorry buddy, I won't be much help there. I didn't change shocks.... which led to them hyper-extending and blowing out. I don't even have the truck lifted anymore. You may be able to find shock extenders... they're pretty generic, or even make your own pretty easily if you have any welding skills or know someone who can. only need to extend where they mount at the bottom about an inch and a half.

check out supreme suspensions, they have extended length shocks.

That's good to know. They didn't when I made this.

I'd suggest getting someone else to install it. It is a bit of a bear to get the springs in, yes, but they will go in. While longer lower control arms would be preferred, this kit is designed to work with the factory control arms. There are no solutions for longer control arms for the 2nd gen 2wd Rams without having something custom fabricated.

Camber wasn't horrible, but it was out of spec. Ended up with some positive camber, but I didn't care enough to do anything about it at the time.

Yes it was. These actually were a little too much lift. Ended up putting 2" blocks in the rear. That put the rear about an inch higher, but the truck more looked level once I did it. Lift is gone now, the rear has a 2" drop on it, and 3rd gen 20s on it now. Channel update coming soon.

Yes. An alignment is always recommended after modifying or replacing any steering or suspension parts.

Just to clarify, the spacer itself is not 3" thick. It's about 2" thick. Because the spring is closer to the radius, it creates 3" of lift. If your spacer is 3" thick, you need to remove it because that is way too thick and your suspension will not handle that.

Thanks! It's a 4th gen Ram HD bumper.

Was the front bumper a direct fit?

No. It requires custom made brackets. You can get them just about anywhere including Amazon. Just look for 4th gen to 2nd gen ram bumper brackets.

All depends on your truck, really. These spacers netted 3" exactly on the front of my truck and the rear was about a half an inch to an inch shorter in the rear. So I bought 1.5" blocks for the rear to get rid of the sag. All depends on how much your rear suspension is currently sagging. Rule of thumb I give people now is, measure your front and your rear and pick a front lift that will NET you about a half an inch shorter than the rear. If you plan on buying blocks for the rear too, then just plan for it being half an inch taller in the rear. I say this because every time I've done or seen a truck that's PERFECTLY level front to back, it always looks like it's sagging in the rear. Half inch taller in the back gives it just a little bit of rake and makes it appear level.

Yes. You'll either have to get longer shocks or shock extensions.

I should have, but I didn't. You'll definitely need longer shocks up front.

You can get shock extenders also.

I did, but I don't recommend it. I blew em out as soon as I moved to Kentucky. Another viewer commented that spends suspensions has extended shocks. Which is great because they didn't at the making of this video.

Mine is negative 3°, every shop I've been to has told me we don't have camber adjustments and the only fix is longer control arms but no one makes them for our trucks anymore, they're all discontinued

Technically not the only fix. Offset ball joints would also fix it, but I don't know of any for a 2WD ram either.

Found it, thanks!

I believe Supreme Suspensions did an install video on a 2wd 2500 Cummins. From what I remember, the suspensions are similar so it should be relatively the same. The coil will be harder to compress, however, because it's a heavier duty spring. Use caution!

I don't see why you couldn't. You'll definitely need longer shocks and brake hoses though.

As a matter of fact, yes. The driver's side tire was rubbing on the top of the steering knuckle. Only the driver's side though. I ended up doing upper ball joints a couple months back, so that was probably why. Getting wheels with less offset (or backspace) would keep that from happening.

@@Basslicks82 actually just did my 01 yesterday, and the angle of the coil/springs are kinda bent once you manage to get the stock shock bolted back on to the lower control arm. Alignment didn't seem to mess up, but maybe with longer shocks it would, but then the angle of the coils wouldn't be so bad either. Bought 3" lift spacers, but only got 1½-2" of lift with stock shocks. It was enough to clear the wheel/tire setup I'm running finally tho (with lots of cutting at stock height also)

Yeah you desperately need to get longer shocks or spacers. You're going to wind up doing the same thing I did, sending the piston through the top of the tubes.

Thanks.

Definitely would get longer ones or run spacers/extenders. I ran the factory ones and ended up pulling the piston out of the tops of the bodies.

315 what? What's the full tire size you're wanting?

315 70 17, im curious if they would fit with a 3 inch.

That's a 34.4x12.4r17. Should fit fine. I had 285x70r17s on 3rd gen steel 17s shortly after installing it. Which is a 32.7x11.2 and had tons of room. I actually STILL had them on for a little while after removing the lift and went to a 275/60r20 which is a 33x10.8 and had no rubbing at all. The 2nd gen ram wheel wells are huge. You can fit a pretty big tire without any issue. Offroad, it may rub some depending on how big you go, but the tires you're wanting should be fine as long as you go with about a 4.5" backspacing or less.

Same I didn’t do it either 🤦🏻‍♂️How has it been???

Bent Wave TV same I forgot the isolator🤦🏻‍♂️ how has ur truck been?

chris oakes its a hell of alot better i went with longer shocks and a thinner rubber ring

@@chrisoakes8345 I’m doing the same thing to my 97 ram 1500 2wd. I’m doing 3” spring spacer lift in front and 2” block lift in the back. Im really having a hard time finding shocks for 2wd. Can you please send me the info on the ones you put on your truck. Thank you. Also the rubber isolator ring?

No 4wd is way harder to do than 2wd

Definitely not done the same way. But definitely not harder. I've done em both. It's actually easier to get the springs out of a 4wd because you can disconnect the trac bar, sway bar links, drag link, and shocks, then let the axle droop to get the springs out. So it's not really harder, you just have to disconnect more stuff.

Thanks. I already have a leveling kit on mine and want to take it off. I don't like how it drives.

Yeah I don't really blame you. In my opinion, the best way to lift a truck and still retain a good ride quality is to do long arms. The more parallel to the ground your control arms are, the better they can react to hitting bumps. There's also REVERSE level (what my truck has now) where you drop the rear to match the front height.

@@Basslicks82, would I need to get a factory coil spacer

I'm a mechanic and never do that lmao. Shut the fuck up.

Yeah, don't do that. On top of spring compressors being inherently dangerous, this way is actually much quicker than screwing with spring compressors.

The spacer itself is like a 2" thick. It produces 3" once installed. So, short answer... Yes.

Yup. That's exactly why I took mine off. I'm running stock front and 2" rear drop now. Gonna drop it 2 more inches overall (soon hopefully) for a 2/4 drop.

@@Basslicks82 Might take mine out too. I'm thinking about getting some bigger front shocks though to see if that will make it ride a bit better because I still like the way it looks with the spacer in there.

Yeah it's definitely looks good, no doubt. But man it rides like crap. I did make the mistake of keeping the stock length shocks though and they blew out on me... So I'm sure that contributed to it, but up here on these Kentucky roads, it was just too rough. I'll just drive my Jeep when I want to drive something lifted lol

@@Basslicks82 what shocks would you recommend

@@Basslicks82 Hi, so should i get longer shocks? i have seen videos that people use the stock ones.

The height of the spacer is 2 inches, but it makes a 3 inch lift because of position of the coil spring.

Yea your dad bought ur truck lmao

Leveling kit's aren't lift kit's.. 😒

@@amac1900 would it make you feel better to know that I threw 2" blocks in the rear afterwards? I just didn't make a video about it cause once you've done blocks on one truck, you may as well have done em all. You can check out the pics on my Instagram @ol_thumper