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Thank you for taking the time to comment.

It is appalling that RV owners have to put up with this.

You may want to look at my project where I added wireless remote capability to my light-switch. It does not have dimmer capability, but it might give you a project idea. www.rv-project.com/projects/remoteauto1.php

Most LED lights are dimmable, although there are a few older puck lights that don't dim very well. Those typically have a different internal LED driver called "switch mode". They can be dimmed, but not all dimmers can dim them, as it depends on several variables. I would try to dim the existing fixture in your RV, and only change it out if it does not work very well.

You did not specify what dimmer you have. There are many wiring configurations depending on whether the dimmer is "high side" or "low side". If you have the dimmer as shown in the video, I produce a corresponding webpage for every video with expanded information. The webpage for this video include several wiring diagrams. You can find the webpage at: www.rv-project.com/projects/sofadimmer.php Also, terms like high side and low side are explained in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rdxnm5ubqba-aJs.html

Are you wanting to place a relay next to the dimmer and control it from a distance? You certainly could do that, buy perhaps you might want to look into a 433mhz wireless relay, then you would have plenty of range. Something like this: amzn.to/2HP3zsU As long as it has SPDT relay contacts, you can wire the relay output like you would a regular SPDT switch. The only caveat is you will use a bit of 12V power to both energize the relay and to run the remote receiver. This might be important in a boondocking situation.

@@RVProject Thanks for the reply again. I already have three wires about ~15ft each running to the location I want my SPDT Switch making 30ft power run to my dimmer if I did no relay. I have about 8ft from my distribution block to the dimmer. If I was to put a SPDT relay, would I put Normally Open (NO) in the 3-way location on the dimmer or can it be interchanged on the dimmer switch? Even powering a SPDT wired relay over a wireless relay, it seems like it would be a small parasitic draw when the relay is charged and in the NO position even when the lights are off on the dimmer switch. Maybe it might be worth running the power over the 30 ft run to the dimmer switch but just afraid of voltage drop. I am running 4 2-watt lights off the dimmer on 12 gauge wiring.

0.187 Spade Lug Connectors: amzn.to/3fnD6P1

@@RVProject Thanks! I think I am fighting a battle uphill trying to stick with 12 gauge of wiring with these puck lights. (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAQBI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) With a 3 way wiring, it will be an easy 30-50 ft from power source. I may just need to drop down to 14 to 16 gauge to make it easier on myself.

Check out my associated website which shows several different wiring scenarios: www.rv-project.com/projects/sofadimmer.php Although the original switch is not shown, refer to the first schematic on the webpage. You will see two wires labelled 12VDC in the schematic. This is the positive and negative wires. The positive wire should go to the switch. If you still cannot figure that out, let me know and I will add a schematic to my webpage showing how to replace the switch with the dimmer.

I'm having trouble getting the dimer to dim. I have the red and white connected properly (I think) as they turn the light on and off. But the dimmer does nothing?

I bought my dimmer for $29. Each project I do has an associated webpage at www.RV-Project.Com. At the website, I provide links to where I buy the stuff. Here is the link for the $29 dimmer: pdxrvwholesale.com/products/dimmer-on-off-switch-with-slide-switch-and-bezel-black-ah-sld1-5-hs001 You may have to pay shipping, so you might end up buying it for less on Amazon with free shipping. Here is a link on Amazon where you can buy one for $35: amzn.to/2FL87wp In both cases, these are American Technology Components products, not JR Products. But American Technology is actually the OEM and about half the price. The connectors can be hard to pry off. if you plan on replacing the connector, you can cut it off I suppose. Also, there are different "gaps" available for the 0.187 connectors. You might try a larger gap connector.

For all of my projects, I also publish a companion webpage that has extended information, wiring diagrams, and links to the items I use. You can find the project webpage here: www.rv-project.com/projects/sofadimmer.php

Some LED pucks use PWM to control the amount of current they receive. However, most all LED dimmers also use PWM to dim the LEDs. There is no standard as to what the frequency that the puck PWM and dimmer PWM signals operate, and in some cases, there can be some interaction between those frequencies, which causes the buzzing sound. It's basically "luck of the draw" as to whether a particular model dimmer and puck will interact this way or not.

@@RVProject Should I replace the dimmer using the same model but hope it's operating on a different frequency?

@@dugdug007 Due to component tolerances, you may find that there will be a minor difference in frequencies, but it might not be enough. In the dimmer shootout article I wrote on RV-Project.Com (www.rv-project.com/gear/dimmers.php) I have a chart showing the PWM frequency of a few different dimmers. Also, if your puck lights use PWM, you might never totally get rid of the buzzing without replacing them with non-PWM pucks, which are becoming more common.

For every youtube video I produce, I do a companion webpage with expanded information and sources. You will find a link to the 3-way switch there: www.rv-project.com/projects/sofadimmer.php

Whenever I do a project video, I also produce a project webpage with additional information. The webpage for this project is here: www.rv-project.com/projects/sofadimmer.php It provides connection options for the dimmer, as well as the sources for the items. The switch cannot be bought as a set - that is, you cannot buy the switch with the bezel in a SPDT 3-way configuration (3 contacts). You have to buy the switch and bezel separately. Sorry it is this awkward to do, but this is because the mfg does not offer the 3 way switch already in a bezel. Here is the bezel with two way switch (which you probably already have): amzn.to/3rzecRv And here is the SPDT 3-Way switch: amzn.to/2Pmc1DI Hope this helps.

@@RVProject Well I didn't know that, thanks for taking the extra time to respond. It's the little things we do that help a stranger that make the world a beautiful place. ✌

Most of my videos have a corresponding webpage with more info. The webpage for this project is: www.rv-project.com/projects/sofadimmer.php It should provide a better drawing. One risk with using wire colors in the RV world is that there are no standards. You really need to be careful here and make sure you properly identify the wire's function as the color of the wire may not be consistant. For example, in a RV, a black wire could be 120VAC (hot), DC +12V or DC ground.

@@RVProject Thank you, thank you for making this info available!! Have been searching the internet for ages trying to find a diagram for wiring a 12 v 3 way switch and finally lucked out by finding this reply with a pointer to your web page. Going to order my puck lights and switches this weekend.

Grand Design

There is a link in the description of the video and on my webpage (www.rv-project.com/projects/sofadimmer.pjp)

It has to be connected.

You cannot wire more than two switches into a 3-way circuit.

@@RVProject Thanks for the reply. It is only two switches. Both of them dimmers. Same as the dimmer in your video, but instead of only one of them being a dimmer they both are.

On the project page at my website: www.rv-project.com/projects/sofadimmer.php I provide a link to a matching 3 way switch. Unfortunately, you cannot buy it in one piece. You must buy the bezel and on-off switch ( amzn.to/389QEMj ) then a replacement 3 way switch ( amzn.to/2LjJWut ) and insert it into the bezel. There is probably a complete unit available somewhere, but I have not found it. I have to state though, this would be for a matching 3-way switch. You can use any SPDT (without center-off) switch that is rated for DC voltage and it will work. See my video "All about switches... for your RV" for a discussion of switches. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eNxniZWmu63Jpps.html

@@RVProject does the switch need to be a on/on switch

I had another question about your website. remote control lighting in different rooms. Can they also be on a dimmer? how do you control various rooms with remote

@@shocks8699 Yes. The typical 3-way switch will be ON-ON, or ON-NONE-ON

The issue as I see it is 12VDC is using the same color code as 120VAC. This is not the best practice as wiring codes should be for a specific purpose. The defacto standard of course for DC wiring is 12VDC = RED and 12V GND = Black. Even that can be confusing to some, so the ABYC recommends 12V "Safety Wire", where 12VDC = RED and 12V GND = Yellow. Like a RV, larger boats have both AC and DC wiring. Therefore, the possibilities are Black representing 120VAC ungrounded, 12V Ground, and +12VDC.

@@RVProject Agreed...you pretty much have to read and test everything, not assuming.

This might help: www.rv-project.com/gear/dimmers2.php

A 120VAC dimmer will not work. LED capable dimmers are actually more complex than you might think. LEDs work differently than incandescent lighting and require more complex Pulse-Width-Modulation circuits. 120VAC dimmers are more simple and less expensive to build. When I designed my PWM dimmers, my cost in just components was around $25 per dimmer. I also suspect there is an economy of scale as 12V dimmers are pretty much limited to the RV and marine industry.

@@RVProject I see. How do AC 120v dimmers work with LED lighting?

@@RVProject so a simple potentiometer wouldn't work as a dimmer?

@@RVProject I'm thinking about buying touch 12v dimmers since they are cheaper and I need to buy quite a few for my project, but unsure how well those will work plus I like the control a potentiometer gives you.

@@meowzic from a technology standpoint, they work similarly, but the voltage differences between 120VAC and 12VDC are such that the component values would be too far off to work properly.

I have not. But each RV is different, and flickering can happen if the wiring results in a voltage drop in the lighting circuit when running the pump.

I am sorry you did not like the way I presented the material. For every project video I produce, I also create a webpage that has additional information, including schematics of the various methods to wire the dimmer. I always state that in the videos and provide a link. The video is just a summary. My goal for RV-Project.Com is to be a catalyst for doing your own projects. In that regard, I provide background information necessary should you want to do something a bit different, or want to learn the how and the why. I never intended RV-Project.Com to be a step-by-step instruction. First, things change over time and what was correct at one time might no longer be correct later down the road. And then there is the Chinese wiring color codes. I don't feel comfortable in just telling people hook one color wire to another when there is no real color code standard in the RV industry. I have a copy of the RVIA/ANSI LV (Low Voltage) standard. There is nothing in that standard enforcing a color code. So it is also a liability thing...

The dimmers are actually fairly complex, employing PWM drivers, high power mosfets, voltage regulators, and associated components. The part count can vary from a dozen to two dozen components.. When I did the dimmer project (www.rv-project.com/projects/moad.php) the components (electronic parts, circuit boards, etc) for the dimmers cost around $25. While I bought these components at retail and I could have probably found a better price in quantity, there are other factors (component storage costs, etc) that tend to mitigate much of the cost differential. You also have to factor the cost of design, engineering, and testing which is not included in my $25 price point; and ultimately, the manufacturer, distributor, and retail all need to make some profit.

@@RVProject I understand all that but nearly 2-4 times more then a non-dimming switch is just plain crazy!

I have to agree. I commented on this on a similar video that Tito made. Cost of manufacture is probably less then $2. And if anyone thinks this switch is made in America and the quality is great, think again. I purchased one and sent it back because it was assembled wrong. Switch was reversed internally and contacts would not connect. Easily fixable but for $35 to $40, you'd think it would come assembled correctly. I bought a couple of cheaper dimmers (less then $15) and they work perfectly. No buzzing or flicker that I can detect on my 2019 Phoenix fifth wheel that has all LEDs.