I looked into those, but my bridge is the Lo TRS II. I asked Tone Vise if they made a Pitch Shifter that was compatible, but they don't.

@@timbmusician I haven't owned a Floyd rose yet but a thing that I think might work is to tune to E with the fine tuner all the way down, then loosen it to Drop D (I have no idea if it would work but Ya never know) Hopefully they will make a pitch shifter for the Lo TRS II soon.

I haven't tried it to be sure, but I don't think there's a full step of play in the fine tuner.

Glad I could help and amuse! Thanks!

@@timbmusician have they since then made any changes to make the install easier? Have you tried the Sophia trem?

As far as I know, there haven't been any changes to the Tremol-no in any way. But, that being said, knowing what I know now, I'm sure I would have a much easiet time if I had to install another one. I've never heard of the Sophia trem.

@@timbmusician thanks for your response. You should check out the Sophia trem. Search for Darrell Braun Guitar Sophia trem on KZfaq. He did a review on it. Very interesting product. Let us know what you think

I've never heard of that one! Thanks! I'll check into it.

@@timbmusician I don't remember how I stumbled upon it. I have one shipping to me right now. Once I have that and the Tremol-No installed, I'll let you know what the outcome is.

Mine only shipped with 3 and years ago I had some tuning stability issues. The heavier gauge strings were drifting more thsn the thinner strings. Angling the springs put more tension on that end of the bridge and fixed the problem for me.

That's great! I can only wish my install had gone as smoothly. LOL

You got really lucky. You should play the lottery.

@@AutoRiff which kind do u have, the pin type or the clamp type? the clamp type works best. i previously tried the pin type and accidentally broke it during installation lol.

@@tyreekmurillo4524 I've got the small clamp type. There's so many ways that the piston can grind that leads me to believe that the official tutorial video is highly misleading. For example, you can slide the clamp along the trem block and throw the whole thing out of alignment. I've spent 10 hours with this thing and finally I don't feel resistance but I can still hear some grinding. Kevin, the inventor, says it's completely silent when set up properly but I don't think that's true. That, or 1/64th of a turn on a claw screw or moving the clamp .05mm is still too much movement at one time. I need a drink LOL

@@AutoRiff i hear that. tremolos in general will make u need a drink or a smoke lol.

Thanks for watching! Good luck on your own install!

I don't recall. I had a set of several and just tried until I found one that fit.

The ground screw isn't a torx bit, it's a regular hex key. I think it's 1mm or 1.5mm.

Hope your install goes smoother than mine! They're pretty cool when you get it dialed in, though.

Timothy E Brown I got it installed. But I need to readjust everything to make the claw and block parallel, and both perpendicular to the rod, while still maintaining ideal intonation, action, and bridge plate height and orientation. Juggling!!!

The D-tuna is simply not compatible with the Ibanez bridge at all. I tried to find a version that works with it, but I came up empty. The OG Ibanez S-Series just wasn't meant to have a D-tuna on it. Works great on my Wolfgang, though!

That probably afftected things.

That's definitely the reason.. :-)

Also, at kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pJqSd8mCp7eyZmQ.html it's easier to do it the other way around. You put the spring in the hole first and then with the help of a flat screwdriver, you put the spring back in the hook. Thanks for taking the time to make this video! Cheers!

That's actually a good tip! I've never been known to do things the easy way. Thanks for watching the video!

Thanks Andrew! When I ordered mine on Amazon, I made sure to check the fine print in the description. I also Googled for my bridge type and tremol-no clamp size. Still it was a bit of a shot in the dark. Luckily, Amazon has always been great about returns and exchanges if you get the wrong size.

Timothy E Brown thanks for getting back to me that’s good to know. I’ll perhaps order one off amazon and hope for the best! I was hoping to buy a strat one day and would no doubt fit another to that too. Out of interest do you remember which you got for yours?

Mine was the small clamp.

You have to take the big clamp version if the tremolo block is ticker than 8mm

The style of bridge on the older S-Series is just incompatible with the D-tuna, with or without the Tremol-no. I even tried to find something from FU-Tone who makes something similar to the D-tuna but for low-profile trem systems like the one on my Ibanez. But they told me that particular model bridge wasn't around long enough for anyone to make compatible hardware for it.

I haven't had my Ibanez out of the case in ages since I got my Wolfgang. But I do recall it took a little trial and error to figure out which screws to tighten to give me which operation I wanted. With all the screws loose, you're in your normal full floating operation and can dive down or pull up. Now this is where my memory gets slightly foggy so forgive me if it's off. With the first screw (maybe first two?) tightened (going from the tailpiece towards the neck) you are in "Dive only" and cannot pull up but can dive down. Then all three screws are to give you a good solid lock for the "fully locked" position.

They're just different sized fittings for different types of bridges. You'll have to read the fine print for each one to see which type is recommended for your particular bridge. My bridge is a bit obscure. That type wasn't listed anywhere so it was actually a bit of a guess. I Googled pictures to find one that looked closest to mine and got that one.

To be fair, the instructions that come with it say you have to have everything straight or it won't work right. But it's just a line so unless you've done a lot of work on trems before, you don't realize how much of a difference it makes if it is even slightly off.

not quite, the bridge should be level balanced with the body, and that mostly happens to be when the claw is in a 90 degree angle towards the cavity edge. If however the threads for the claw screws are stripped, or the springs are partly relaxed due to age, or even the bridge posts on top of the body are worn, you might end up with an angled claw and still have a leveled bridge

I had them that way for years before this. So long, in fact, that I don't recall what the original cause was. I just remember that one side of the bridge *always* sat higher than the other. Angling the springs made it sit flat and even. I probably could have just added a spring, but I didn't have any at the time. Once the issue was fixed, I just left it that way.

@@timbmusician Interesting. Thanks for letting me know! Great video by the way. I subscribed:)

Thanks! I appreciate that.

That's a good question! I haven't tried it myself to know for sure, but I suspect you're right. As long as you go back to the same tuning you had when you locked into hardtail mode, you should be fine. Any tuning changes in between should be irrelevant. But like I said, I haven't tried it myself to be 100% sure.

D'Addario XL 9's.

That's an easy answer if you have the budget. But for a lot less money than a second guitar, minus a few hours setup frustration, I can now have it both ways. Works great once you get it dialed in.

3 Reasons. 1. Faster set up/Changing strings and action. 2. Able to tune much easier to whatever tuning you require when the Tremol-No clamp is fully locked. 3. More versatility, if you can't afford multiple guitars with hardtails, this is a good buy.

Maybe learn how to setup one up the correct way and you would not have to block it. @@deafworldstudios8644

@@metalheadbillseiw001 Oh I do, but as the old saying goes "Work Smarter, not harder'' in this scenario is definitely convenient.

Aw, look! My first troll! Thank you!