Alignment on what? The springs or car

Car

Alignment and negative camber wear!!!!

What about if u already got alignment befo lowering

it's totally up to you to also get one after.

I appreciate that bro 🤝

I got you 🤙🏽

Thanks really appreciate it 🤝

Ayyy thanks bro 🤝 I try to be as detailed as possible bcuz that’s what I would want

Ay bro thanks 🤙🏽 your rt is going to be looking like a beast 😈💪🏽

Thank you! 💪🏽

ZeroGravity appreciate you bro 🤝

Thanks bro I appreciate you checking me out 💯🤝

RT Joe no doubt bro

Thanks bro 🤝

Thanks, I appreciate that. I didn't have to change or replace anything other than the springs itself. Nothing should be breaking.

Ayyy thanks bro

Thanks bro

Nah I didn’t preload. Pretty much straight from the box to my car

Thank you

Thanks bro 🤝 I got a wheel alignment two months before deciding I want to drop the car...if I had made my mind up back then I would’ve waited until after but so far it’s been wearing evenly

That's what's up bro! Man, like I said I started putting mine on today and got stuck on the front wheel. That middle bolt won't tighten for me. It just keeps spinning. And nothing to hold it with on the other side. All the other bolts are snug but I can't snug that one. Suggestions?

You can either squeeze the rubber bushing just a little bit with a vice grip for it to catch or you can apply a little pressure to the bolt by lowering the jack a little (if you do the second method make sure to hand tighten the upper control arm bolt so it doesn’t fall back out)

It’s been over a year since the install and I must say they’ve settled a lot. In my opinion it’s lower than the manufacturer say it would. The ride quality is stiffer than the stock springs, so you’ll feel bumps more when driving. I wouldn’t recommend getting them if you normally drive your car with a full car of people.

Yeah I got the Sport Springs and it took less than a week to be delivered

Thanks bro and I did not get an alignment after lowering but I would suggest getting it. When I change my wheel setup I did an alignment which was about 2-3 months before I made up my mind to lower my car. So basically if I made up my mind back then I wouldve just waited until after I did everything. So far it’s been good tho

@@rtjoe Thanks Bro really appreciate the quick comment, and definately gonna look into these H&R's for my RT as well.

I didn’t have to replace any other parts for it to work. And preciate it bro

Probably 2-3 hours taking a few breaks in between

It settled a little lower and I still have not scraped anything (I’m being careful about it). It’s a cool mod and it makes the stance of the car look aggressive. If you do lower your car, I suggest aligning after because of the drop. You can check out my Instagram story for an updated look @rtjoee

@@rtjoe Nice, thanks for the reply! I've had the car for one monh and have deleted resonators and isntalled 44s.

@@ramirogovea3092 whatd you end up doing in suspension bro?

Just the lowering springs and wheel alignment

Yes it does rub when I have a full car. It doesn’t rub the whole time but whenever I do hit a bump it definitely rubs. I don’t normally have a full car so I don’t mind the occasional rubs. Hope this helps. If you have more questions, you can dm me on Instagram

I did not buy the camber kit or any bushings; however, you can to improve the alignment after lowering the car. H&R states: 1.7" Front and 1.4" Rear.

I don’t remember which one was which but I used 18, 20, and 22 mm sockets. I mentioned the sizes in the video specific to the bolt.

I’m running the same tires sizes: 275 in the front, 315 in the rear. Front Rim: 9.5 inches with +15 offset; Rear Rim: 10.5 inches with +25 offset.

@@rtjoe any rubbing or figment issues

No fitment issues, just rubbing when I hit potholes and bumps on the highways. Only happens when I have 4 or 5 people in my car.

Roughly $250 and I got mine through TireRack.com

The lettering should be readable meaning upright. It shouldn’t be upside down.

When you take out the oem springs, the lowering springs should fit right in the rubber shoes for the spring

If you’re planning to spend for coil-overs, I would go with bags (my opinion, my preference)

@@rtjoe more than likely will go with the springs have you had any problems scraping going over bulbs or anything like that? Also go drop a follow on ig @392club 🤟🏼

No problems with speed bumps, haven’t scraped. Normally if I see a plane too high I just go sideways. I’ll check out the IG 🤙🏽

Aight for sure bro 🤙🏽 I don’t have the specs for the bolts

@@rtjoe NP I found them, thanks bro 👊🏼

@@robcolletti What were the torque specs? Do you have the specs for the front as well?

@@cameronmartin428 Protip: TORQUE BOLTS/NUTS UNDER WEIGHT Front Torque Specs/Notes • Shock Absorber upper mounting nuts (under hood) - 13mm ○ Align them to original wear marks ○ Tighten to 20 ft/lbs • Upper ball joint mounting nut (use an Allen key in the middle to keep it from turning) - 2 Step - 18mm ○ Tighten to 35 ft/lbs ○ Then Tighten an additional 95 degrees • Stabilizer Link Upper Mounting Nut - 111 ft/lbs 21mm • Shock Absorber lower mounting bolt (bottom of strut) 18mm ○ Using the jack - raise as close as possible to normal ride height ○ Tighten to 128 ft/lbs Rear Torque Specs/Notes • Shock upper bolts 46 ft/lb 16mm (swivel extension is helpful) Shock lower bolt 96 ft/lb 15mm bolt with 18mm nut (use a wrench for the nut) If you drop the rear (while jack supported) to remove spring - 105 ft/lbs (18mm nut, 15mm bolt)

@@robcolletti Thanks!

I have the same tire set up but my offsets are +25 rear (10.5 inch rim) and +15 front (9.5 inch rim)

@@rtjoe solid. Preciate it man

I have same bro looks great with those wheel size

💪🏽 the stance is top tier

No these are Charger specific springs in the video. There may be other versions for a Durango.

no, just the springs

F: 275/40/20 R: 315/35/20

I used a rubber head hammer, but you have to be VERY careful as it will snap and pop out at you you. I highly recommend putting something to apply pressure underneath the wheel assembly (example: jack) so that it doesn’t fall out or hit you. Check out the video!

275 in the front & 315 in the rear

I’m not sure on that one

It should be tightened using only hand tools. It should not be as tight as lug nuts. If you want to go the extra mile, you can rent/buy a torque wrench and tighten to the manufacturer exact specifications

When I lifted the both of them together I didn’t feel a significant difference in the weight

It’s stiffer than stock. You feel the bumps and dips more but it doesn’t bother me at all 😊

You could've removed the one closer by the spindle and you're alignment would been closer to spec

They are still good, they have settled perfectly 🦍🔥 no gap at all

These are the specific lowering springs I have: H&R 50888 Sport Springs

Tire Rack

It’s an aggressive drop 🔥You can check out the car page @rtjoee on Instagram for a better view.

From personal experience, so far I’ve had no problems and I’ve had these on my car since July of 2020. But if you plan on driving your car filled with passengers and have 315 tires in the rear like me then that can be something to consider.

After some time, it will settle and drop more

I bet you it's looking aggressive and you won't go back 🦍 🔥

@@rtjoe yeah never going back, stock height just wayyy too high on a rt, idk what dodge was thinking

Should be readable

@@rtjoe after a week my rear is making some creaking sounds. Sounds like rubber to rubber. Did you have to lubricate the springs for the top and bottom hat

No lubricants just a spring swap

Yes, lowering springs are stiffer

Put the bolts back in reverse..and maybe lift the components with the jack to make them align.

@@rtjoe i did i had to unhook just about everything in the rear end to get it to line up only got both the front and back right done i still have to do the back left waiting for this weekend to do it but i did take it on a test drive and the front made alot of clunking noise when i hit bumps i think it may be the shock top nuts on the front not being fully tightened cause i couldnt get the shaft to stop spinning did you have a trick for that i saw you just used a impact on it mine wouldn’t

Yeah the rear is a bit more challenging because of the spacing. And I don’t have any sounds coming from the wheels. If the bolt is spinning, use another tool on the other end to hold it.

i'm sure you can lower an 08 but you'll have to research which springs work for that year

Yeah, just have to get the right one for your car

Harbor Freight

😂😂😂

Ryobi from Home Depot

@@rtjoe thank you and how much torque does it have?

300

It just might be time

yeah just about

No but I would suggest checking out my most recent vid. I gave a lot of info. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qraCgb2ip5jPZmw.html

about 1.7 inches

Word you have an ig or something I wanna see how yours sit before I get it I have an Daytona btw and I wanna close that gap

ig is rtjoee

@@rtjoe i follow you brah

If you have a general idea about wheel set ups, all the parts and components, and the required tools, you can do all 4 within 2 hours.

Shouldn’t take more than 1 day tbh

It may fit, you’ll just have to make sure the sxt is one of the compatible sub models for the springs

You can feel the difference in ride quality when comparing them to stock springs. It’s stiffer but the handling is way better than the stock springs. You’ll feel bumps more bcuz of the stiffness

F: 275/40/20 R: 315/35/20

9.5 in the front, 10.5 in the rear

Diameter of the rims?

RWD

no problems as of right now