Thanks! I'm glad it was easy, because I didn't want to get out the cutting torch! :)

Yeah, that was a great call.

Glad it was helpful!

Nice 👍

I was very pleased with how the JBA headers fit, considering all the stories we hear about header fitment in the 65-66 cars. :)

No worries :)

Thanks! Will do!

I was debating about side pipe, but since I already had those cutouts in the rear valence, I figured it would look weird without the exhaust pipes coming through them. :)

It hadn't snowed in a month and the only day I had available (without taking an extra day off work) was the one day it snowed. And like I mentioned in the video, it was fine when I left the house, but it go bad real quick. Almost all the snow was gone in town by the time I picked up the car that afternoon, and you can see in the video there was nothing on the ground at my place when I got home that same day. I wish "braver" was the way to describe driving in the snow, but at least they don't salt the roads here. :)

Right on!

Thanks, you should!

Thanks!!

Doug's are a great set of headers, they're still on my list if I ever decide to change things up. :)

Thanks!

Right on, thanks!

@@AndyKruseChannel Absolutely!

Thanks! The primary tubes meet at the collector right about where the Z-bar would be connected to the block, so it's hard to tell if that bar would work. The next time I'm under there I'll take a look. I'd like to do a follow up video where I report on how some of these parts are doing and maybe I could slip a comment in there about parts like the Z-bar working with these headers. :)

Yeah, these Shorties are a great option for mild builds, and they fit really good too. :)

Can't give it all away. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel YEAH!!!!.🤣

Glad you like them!

At the muffle shop the guy fired it up and backed it out, it was awesome hearing it for the first time. :)

Thanks!

Haha, thanks! :)

I've heard that the H-Pipe gives more of a rumble to the sound, versus the X-Pipe giving it more of a "scream". I like the rumble of the V8, so that's why I went with the H-Pipe. :)

I have a combo of extensions and knuckles to reach up there and tighten it. I agree, it's difficult and I haven't found an easy way yet. :)

No, they’re that ball-n-cup style (not sure what they’re called) so they don’t need a gasket.

That's tough to say, I know those engine bays in the Falcon and Fairlines are really tight. :)

I wanted to do side pipes, but I don’t know if it’s worth making all my neighbors upset. 🙂

Thanks! Yes, it comes that way, but I like that it's there in case I ever do EFI. :)

That’s not great to hear. I wonder if it’s just a wild part? It’s difficult to see how those bends would be changed so much to make an issue. I’d say the drivers side is a tight fit and any change in bends may cause an issue. The passenger side should just fall in. Hopefully they’ll be able to take care of you, I’d be frustrated too. 🙁

Correct, I had the exhaust shop make the piping from the back end of the H-Pipe to the mufflers, position the mufflers and hangers, bend the tubing to go around the axle, and make the pieces that fit out the rear valence. It was cheaper for me to get the V-Band clamps off Ebay and bring them to him to weld on.

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks. I just took a 3” exhaust off my cars the pervious owner put on that was just too big. Going back with 2.5 then installing the T5 from modern driveline kit.

Thanks! It was about $900 for all the parts and pieces (gather over about 3 months) and about $700 to have the Muffler shop do the remaining work. The parts may be more or less expensive, depending on buying new or used, and the install price can vary depending on location. I've had that Muffler shop work on all three of my Mustangs, and I'd go back in a heart beat, that guy does amazing work. :)

My muffler shop installed the mufflers to some new piping (they supplied) that connected them to the H-Pipe, and they made new pipes (they supplied) going out the back of the mufflers, up over the axle, then out the back valence of my car. All that labor and the piping they supplied for the car was $682. It's possible that if you were in a larger city, the price may be a little cheaper purely for competition. If your shop is able to reuse anything already on your car, that may help you with the price. After I installed the Panhard bar, I had to have my shop remake the pipes that come out the back of the muffler and go over the axle since the pipes they made earlier were in the way of the new bar. Having them remake those pipes was $218.

@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks

Thanks! The JBA H-Pipe is part number 1650SH. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel awesome thanks! About to install this setup

American Racing Torque Thrust, 16x7, 5x4.5 bolt, 4 inch backspacing, part number VN2156765 Falken Azenis Tires, RT615K+, 225/60/16, all four. I modified fenders (front and rear) to ensure the tires did not rub. I did not have to do much, but I had to do a little bit. :)

They are battery powered (rechargeable) LED lights from Harbor Freight. Look up "Braun 1250 Lumen Battery Light". :)

Thanks Andy. I assume you mount it on some sort of stand?

No, they have a kick-stand on the back, you can set them just about anywhere.

Thanks! Installing the motor with the headers on depends on the motor size and header style. If you have the 289/302, then it depends on the headers. Some headers designs have the primary tubes sort of "flare" out after they get past the shock towers as there's more space. Some style keep everything tucked in close to the block and its possible to put it all in at once. As you are probable familiar, the 65/66 cars have a small engine bay, so shoving a motor in as already tight, so any headers can complicate the install. There's no harm in trying it, all you lose is time. If it can be done, then you'll likely save some busted knuckles trying to install the headers afterwards. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks. I have shorty headers very similar to what you installed. When the time comes I think I'll throw some blankets over the shock towers and try to stick it with them on. As you said...all I'll lose is time.

With that size of engine, you'll want something that will allow you to move the air your engine can move. There are lots of good brands out there, but anything that is a Tri-Y or 4-to-1 style header will be great. I'm not sure you'd be happy with shorties, like what I have here. If it's in the budget, I'd call FPA Headers and order a Tri-Y set from him. For mufflers, that's super subjective, and I don't know what sounds good to you. I like my Flowmaster 40-Series, but that one is more difficult to recommend without knowing what sound you like. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel thank you very much. I’ll do exactly that. I’ve already contacted FPA so they’re top on the list from the online research I’ve done. I’ll look into flowmaster 40 series

Nope, the OEM unit. The only Borgeson item I have is the coupling device between the new tilt steering shaft and the steering box. :)

From what I can see, I don't think the Z-bat would work with these Shorty headers, but it's tough to tell. The pipes all collect right where that z-bar would be. Sorry, but I don't have enough info for you. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Makes sense; that’s what I was afraid of before I drop hundreds on these headers and then they don’t fit… Thanks!

I believe the primaries on these Shorties are larger than the tube on my Summit Racing Headers, and so with this motor, it's not helping me. The shorties are suppose to help with low rpm power, but the tube size is killing any gains I'd see with a relatively stock motor. But I bought these with future plans in mind, so I'm hoping they'll help down the road. :) If someone was keeping their motor stock, or mostly stock, I'd recommend Tri-Y headers as they combine the benefits shorties and longtube headers into a single package.

@@AndyKruseChannel definitely thought about there cause I have decided to go down the road of upgrading cam, heads, etc.. might go with some basic tri ys until the day comes to get more out of the 289. I just feel bad for her right now having to use the stock exhaust manifolds

No, because it’s a ball-and-socket style connection which is an alternative to flat-flange connections where a gasket would be needed. 🙂

Thank you, enjoy your channel

Next time?

@@AndyKruseChannel a frame up restoration?

Wheels are 16x7, 4" backspacing, part number VN2156765. Tires are 225/50/16, Falken Azenis RT615k+

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for the information. I have owned a 65 fastback since 1988. I'm redoing the car and accumulating parts for years. I have the Global West adjustable front strut setup going on, with Wildwood Brakes (4 piston black coated Calipers) the rear springs are Global West reverse eye leaf springs with del-a-lum bushings. My question is do you have any rubbing issues with your wheel/tire combination? I would like to use 16×8 all around. Personally I think 16" wheels look right on the 65-66 mustangs. 17'"s look too big and modern. I currently have 15×7 torque thrusts that are off set milled 20 thousands. There's not much tire selection for 15" wheels today. Your fastback looks great! Are those torque thrusts , vintage Wheel works, V45 or Torque thrusts 2's. The wheels/tires are the last big purchase to make. Thanks for your time

@@johnclemans7802 I don't have any rubbing, but I also had to roll my fenders. 15x7 wheel is actually 8 inches wide, so the 4 inch backspacing I have means the face of the wheel mounting surface is in the middle of the wheel. Then you couple that with the width of tire I have and you can begin to see what might fit on your ride. With your reverse-eye leafs, you are a 1/2" low than I am because I have mid-eye leafs and a 1/2" lowering block. Yes, my wheels are Torq Thrust II wheels. 😀

@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for your reply the information. My inner fender lips are rolled as well. Hope to get my car back on the road soon, looks like the car from the movie Bullet.

Sorry boss, but I don't know, it was something that the muffler shop had. :)

Yeah, this install was fairly straight forward. :)

Yup, they're not for everyone.

Anti seize for which part?

on the header bolts.@@AndyKruseChannel

Yeah, they can't all be bangers. :)

You're welcome?