Glad you likes it! Thanks for watching!

You're welcome!

Fantastic!

exciting huh, im doing my first as well.

I'm glad you like the videos! Thanks for watching!

Thats great! I'm glad you could get some helpful information from it!!

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

If I was guessing, I'd say you lost probably the bottom turbine shaft seal on the input shaft. That's not as uncommon as you would think. But definatly a leak on the oil circuit. But I would want to pull it apart and look. Seeing as how you have strong 1st and 2nd, I would probably rule out the forward sprag. There are so many things it could be, but it would be a fun one to do exploratory surgery...If you need any help otherwise, drop me an email. I've got enough videos out on the input housing to help.

@@IrocinZ any chance shift solenoid B is stuck off mechanically as looking at the apply charts it's always off except for 3/4 engagement. I've probably put at least a couple hundred key cycles thru it, driven it around town 35mph speed limits for months now at least couple hundred miles. As always No codes. I have several professional scanners I have 2 pcms for it one tuned by pcm4less and the stock one plug and play since I programmed the keys into both. (have not tried my stock PCM) but doubt that would be the culprit watching PIDS while driving I just had them modify the shift points to where I wanted them, and some engine parameters I wanted changed. Still not a single code except for a cellular code in the onstar module it's always had. Also noticed in the fluid circuits and operation of this trans the 2/3 shuttle valve or issue with 2/3 down/Shift solenoid could cause a loss/leakdown of pressure to the 3rd fluid circuit. I have had this pan off before they both looked new (changed the manifold pressure switch after a couple thousand miles were on this trans) Worth swapping a and b and seeing what happens? (If it's possible/ youve ever seen a 4l60e solenoid get stuck mechanically but not register electrically so the pcm thinks everything is fine? I Also would be Inspecting 2-4 shuttle while pan is off. Gotta save the fluid as it is still brand new Dex IV and it's beautiful color and smell wise and not worth putting fresh fluid in. I have my previous core wrapped on a pallet in my storage unit (lasted 10,000 miles after converter shudder started at 100k, new pwm solenoid, 2-3 solenoid harness and both shift solenoids, fluid change w/lubegard additive and 2 of the small tubes of their converter shudder additive made it last another 10k driving it like an old man except when passing or pulling out into heavy traffic) I might go grab that tonight and start tearing that one down for just a bit of practice before I pull my current one.

Okay so I finally got the guts to rebuild my original trans that lost 3/4 after several months of TCC shudder and finally starting to slip in 4th on the highway. (not the currently installed one I bought online, lord knows what's inside that POS) I went and got it out of storage this weekend, tried my 3/8" stubby matco IP50/t-plus for the bellhousing wouldn't budge them. Snapon dealer will be at my shop with a longer 1/2 drive one meant for exactly this. So I did everything else I could do. Pump bolts are out, solenoids, harness, valve body, seperateror plate, accumulators taken apart inspected, cleaned, checked for wear/wiggle on the pin seems good except 3rd it's stuck in all the way in it's bore and removed servo, basically everything j could do minus pulling any end caps and valves, springs, shuttle valve etc. Any suggestjons/advice thus far? I can send pictures or video if you'd like to see. I'd kinda like to tackle the valve body before tearing all the guts apart anyway. (I will yank the pump and inspect 3/4 tomorrow after work once I can get the bell off with the proper socket but i will leave it at that. I'm sure you don't want to post any info on here my email is chevyvortecl31@gmail.com or text cell number 815 three 5 one 4657. Thank you so much for your help and all that you do.

@@IrocinZ Okay so I finally got the guts to rebuild my original trans that lost 3/4 after several months of TCC shudder and finally starting to slip in 4th on the highway. (not the currently installed one I bought online, lord knows what's inside that POS) I went and got it out of storage this weekend, tried my 3/8" stubby matco IP50/t-plus for the bellhousing wouldn't budge them. Snapon dealer will be at my shop with a longer 1/2 drive one meant for exactly this. So I did everything else I could do. Pump bolts are out, solenoids, harness, valve body, seperateror plate, accumulators taken apart inspected, cleaned, checked for wear/wiggle on the pin seems good except 3rd it's stuck in all the way in it's bore and removed servo, basically everything j could do minus pulling any end caps and valves, springs, shuttle valve etc. Any suggestjons/advice thus far? I can send pictures or video if you'd like to see. I'd kinda like to tackle the valve body before tearing all the guts apart anyway. (I will yank the pump and inspect 3/4 tomorrow after work once I can get the bell off with the proper socket but i will leave it at that. I'm sure you don't want to post any info on here my email is chevyvortecl31@gmail.com or text cell number 815 three 5 one 4657. Thank you so much for your help and all that you do!!

@@kylealexander1172 Sounds like you're on your way! Depending on the year of the trans, the 3-4 accumulator will have the piston in the bottom of the housing. Other times it will be upside down and the springs will be underneath of the piston. I have seen this setup up with broken springs plenty of times.

Thank you!

Thank you sir! Glad you liked it!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Wow, thanks!

LOL...Thanks?

You can purchase them from GM still, or they are available online...

ATSG recommends leaving them out for an improved 2-3 shift. Since ATSG is the standard for rebuild, i'll followbtheir recommendation. I have noticed a much improved 2-3 shift in the last 12 transmissions i habe rebuilt, by following that recommendation.

You are correct. But for measuring purposes, I left the sprag out so I could get to the forward clutch. Just easier to measure the 3-4 also without the sprag in the way.

Have fun installing after...I learned the hard way,he must have been explaining and forgot that part....

Those are called load springs. I've seen alot of builders and non builders leave those out. They're not expensive...

@Bryan-SmG anything is possible, but if you have a clutch pack not releasing, it sure could...

Should be .082" frictions.

My guess is there is a leak in the low/rev clutch to where it doesn't hold fluid when released and it has to fill the piston area back up...

Downshifting or upshifting?

Depending on the year, some of the 700s didn't come with them. After about 89, they put them in almost all. They are a good addition to one's that didn't come with them as it helps prevent hydraulic coupling on high speed applications. Some builders will tell you just to leave them out as they are not needed. I prefer to use them in my builds....

Good luck brother! You can do it!

Usually when they put those kits together, they will put the correct number of frictions with the correct number of steels. I like using the Z-Pak from Raybestos because it's a matched set. As long as you have a number 7 apply ring for the 3-4, it's pretty straight forward....

You have to make adjustments accordingly, either in a different thickness steel, fiber, or backing plate.

@@IrocinZ Got it. Thank you for replying.

Either the forward sprag is broken, or the 3/4 clutch is burnt up. Either way you'll probably have to tear it down....

According to what I read, its similar to the Raybestos Z-Pak and all of the clutches are one sided except for one. It should have had 6 internal and 6 external splined clutches where as if you have a double sided, it would go on the bottom. Found this info right from the instructions on their website.

I would start by checking to see if you have enough line pressure. As the fluid heats up, it gets thinner. So if there is too much clearance in the pump, or valve train, it'll give you low pressure...

How much extra play do you have? Normally you should have 6 fibers and 5 steels and somewhere between. 040 and .070 clearance.

@@IrocinZ it's over 70 if I add the six Steel it brings it down where it needs to be which it didn't have before but it came with a kit it brings it in between 40 and 70

@@IrocinZ I had five clutches and six Steels with with a kit came from jegs

@@zx001961 Should be the other way around. The only one that uses that set up was an s10 with a 4 cyl

@@zx001961 Sounds like the stack isn't right. Your bottom plate that sits on the five fingers, is also your starting point. There is not a steel that goes there. As you alternate fiber and steel, you should end up with a six pack with a fiber on top before your backing plate and snap ring. If you still have too much clearance, check the thickness of your fibers and steels. They make different ones depending on application...

If you're referring to the load springs, nothing. They would still function the same...

@@IrocinZ thanks, im learning to build transmissions for work and have everything except the valve body bolted down and was reviewing videos and the manual and everywhere says to install them with the long side up

Look at L2theW's Playlist on my channel. I have one on there

Sounds like you have a cut seal or a leaking input housing. It could also be a forward sprag starting to lay over. I'd say its going to have to come apart either way...

I am doing my 700r4 and was wondering if it would be the same patter lm for clutches and plates?

Same

@@mattsim8398 yes

I prefer using a Raybestos Z-pak on the 3-4 and the Kevlar wide band for my setups. The thing you have to remember is when you get thinner steels or fractions, it won't dissipate heat as well. And don't leave out the load springs. On your clearance, .038 is good and I wouldn't go much tighter on that clutch. You can run into hydraulic clutch engagement from it being too tight and burning up the clutch....

@@IrocinZ cool, I heard a lot of good things about the Zpak especially for towing when I get ready to build my 95 yukon 4l60e Ill definitely throw one in. This 4l60e im building now is going in my Fbody im also throwing in a wide band too just got a Alto red wide band, maybe mod that low reverse cuz im probably gonna do some manual shifting. Thanks for the advice I really appreciate it.

@@martinez1701a I've had better luck with the Kevlar band over the red Alto for durability, both wide bands of course. The Kevlar wide band is also made by Raybestos. If you drive your f car on the street, i would not leave out the wave on the lo/rev out. I think you'll regret it....

@@IrocinZ you think I should leave that low reverse alone, my band wont come on before that low reverse releases in manual low?

@@martinez1701a If it were me, I'd leave the wave in there, but I plan driving mine more on the street with some occasional pass down the strip. Otherwise its gonna hammer reverse when you put it in gear, especially with a tight converter....

It's builder preference really. I always put them in....

Generally I put it in between the top friction plate and the backing plate in two locations to get an accurate reading.

The overrun clutches have no effect in 4th gear. They are only applied in manual 1st, 2nd, or 3rd or Drive. No fourth can be caused by several things, but I would venture to say it is probably a pressure problem or a stuck valve. I really couldn't give you a definite answer since the vehicle is not in front of me and can't put my hands on it. Is there any other issues other than 4th? How is second and third gear? Do you leave it in drive to get into 3rd and manually shift to 4th?

@@IrocinZ One day i noticed 2nd was slipping at slow speeds and found the TV cable loose. I did the WOT thing and found it was very loose I pulled the pan and set it up looking at the plunger. No more problems for about a week 200 miles. Then on a trip to the store when it hit 4th the engine bogged badly it did this 3 times so i came home in 3rd did not bog. I pulled the trans and took it apart everything looks good but those 2 clutch disc the engine only has about 10,000 on it. the ban has some pitting on it but very little wear

@@donaldschumacher3683 interesting. If second is slipping a little, I'd say the band is wore out or it has the wrong or too short of pin in the 2-4 servo. Also could have a leak in the 3-4 clutch circuit. Like I said hard to accurately diagnose since it's not right in front of me...

@@IrocinZ Thanks for the replies this is the first time messing with auto trans been working on Aircraft for 30 years. Im going to clean it up good and put it back together with some new parts and see what happens. The band has very little wear just a lot of pitting in the fiber. I could email you some pictures but I feel I have bothered you to much as it is

@@donaldschumacher3683 Its no bother at all if you want to send pics. If you put a new band in, make sure to replace the reverse input housing, the drum the band rides on, also. I have another video coming out that details the band setup, just haven't had time to finish it. Glad I could help...

There is not really a pressure plate for the overrun. It uses the bottom thick plate for the forward clutch and at the bottom of the drum is just a steel that sits on the top of the piston...

Is that the plate you installed at 9:53? Attempting rebuild and can not find mine anywhere

Yes, that is the 3-4 pressure plate

????

@@IrocinZ my bad brother. Wrong channel, I watched someone else’s before yours and he did it wrong. I’m sorry, Thank you for the easy explanation !!