Installing the steel floor beams

  Рет қаралды 42,650

Office Boy Builder

Office Boy Builder

3 жыл бұрын

In this video I show how to install steel beams into the floor of a loft conversion/Dormer.
We have shifting seriously heavy steels, and height, and are highly experienced builders, so this video is for information purposes only, rather than a tutorial - you should assess your own risks and ensure you are safe and comfortable carrying out any work on your own home.
We lift and slide the steels into position, having carefully marked out exactly where they need to sit within the house, as well as ensuring they are square to the walls/roof and to one another.
Here is the kit I use:
Bosch Professional Combi Drill and Impact Driver with Two 18V 4.0 Ah Batteries amzn.to/2owE0mK
Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Circular Saw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Multi-Cutter with 2 x 18 V 5 Ah Batteries and 16 Accessories
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Jigsaw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
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Bosch Professional GAS 35 M AFC Wet/Dry Extractor
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Bosch Professional GMF 1600 CE Corded 240V Multi-Function Router
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Occidental Leather 5089 LG Seven Bag Framer Tool Belt
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Occidental Leather 5355 Stronghold Comfort Package
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Hikoki Nail Gun
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Bosch Table Saw & leg stand
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Damp Proof Membrane
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18mm Chipboard Flooring
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Пікірлер: 33
@Morning_Rays
@Morning_Rays 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for sharing 🙏
@georgeks173
@georgeks173 3 жыл бұрын
Your videos are really helpful. Structural engineers and bci's are going well over top, these steel beams can hold at least 3x the weight they're supposed to..
@Aaron-gl8cm
@Aaron-gl8cm 3 жыл бұрын
For the floor beams a 203UC is common. You are correct in that these can most likely hold 3x the weight it will see during its use if it's stress based. Most of these beams are designed based on deflection and their splice capacities. The beams you can choose from for a loft conversion whilst keeping the depth low is limited, 203UBs which are light but typically can't span the distance and 152UCs which are also often used just depends on the span, but good luck getting the spliced connection to work.
@irechopshop
@irechopshop 2 жыл бұрын
I am very surprised the BCI signed of on the steel work, bricking up on top of wooden sole plates and no pad stones on top of brickwork
@lazza3399
@lazza3399 2 жыл бұрын
You should have cut that timber out of the way and built up from existing brickwork. In time that timber will rot and steel will drop causing untold problems.
@simonworsnop900
@simonworsnop900 2 жыл бұрын
No need for brick at all .... steel can be sat directly on to a large timber packing secured to the wallplate.
@Marvelousmelody631
@Marvelousmelody631 6 күн бұрын
did you build the bricks on top of the wall plate? , thanks.
@robnicholas1811
@robnicholas1811 3 жыл бұрын
You can get that wall plate out with a multi tool and not even mark the room inside of careful!
@DanielPaprocki
@DanielPaprocki Жыл бұрын
I'm wondering what is the reason behind installing steel 30mm above the wall plate ? I understand that long steel can deflect slightly and can damage ceiling finishes below but are there any building regulations behind this distance or is it individual decision based on different factors?
@OfficeBoyBuilder
@OfficeBoyBuilder Жыл бұрын
I was told by the building inspector that the underside of the steel has to be a minimum of 50mm away from the top of the ceiling joists...I haven't read that myself anywhere, but that's what he told me 👍
@brianhewitt8618
@brianhewitt8618 3 жыл бұрын
you should be bricking your steel beam piers on to masonry, not a timber wall plate
@OfficeBoyBuilder
@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын
We checked this with the building control inspector and he was happy - there's no way of removing that timber wall plate without destroying the rooms below.
@brianhewitt8618
@brianhewitt8618 3 жыл бұрын
@@OfficeBoyBuilder fair enough, ill be pulling my bci soon about that as your way is so much quicker
@OfficeBoyBuilder
@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын
I know of at least 8 other loft converters who are doing the same thing and their BCI is signing them off too. Everyone seems to be doing it that way now, so you should be fine (Total building control is who we use). I know what you mean though; a non-compressible material bearing down on a compressible timber...but the structural engineer spread the load across 800mm because of that.
@CORRIGEEN71
@CORRIGEEN71 3 жыл бұрын
Why not pack up the timber wall plate with timber securing each layer and put the spreader plate on top why brick on timber /timber on timber!
@OfficeBoyBuilder
@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын
Yeah that's certainly a way of doing it - nothing wrong with that method at all. We were keen to stick to what our SE had specified because that's ultimately what the BCI is checking.
@michaelathanasiou2030
@michaelathanasiou2030 2 жыл бұрын
Where does the steel sit on the external cavity wall ( inside or outside wall?)
@OfficeBoyBuilder
@OfficeBoyBuilder 2 жыл бұрын
So our walls are solid brick (no cavity) and spans across the full 9inch depth of the wall thickness...if it was a cavity wall I believe you'd want to do the same and span it across both, to spread the load of the beam and give more for the beam to register on.
@michaelathanasiou2030
@michaelathanasiou2030 2 жыл бұрын
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Thanks for getting back, yes I agree if I was rendering the wall on the outside but I will be bricking the gable so I can only rest it on the internal wall unless I rest the beam half way on to the external wall as well and cut the bricks in half when I am laying them. just to say my house is a semi detached
@simonworsnop900
@simonworsnop900 2 жыл бұрын
On a cavity wall the steel should sit on a Padstone on the internal wall and extend into the cavity 50mm it doesn't need to go into external brickwork .... all our structural drawings insist on a 150mm bearing for the steel.
@strategicthinker8899
@strategicthinker8899 Жыл бұрын
Clean the existing brick and wood underneath of dirt and debris first.
@TheToolnut
@TheToolnut 3 жыл бұрын
Did you consider laminating your own beams or using LVL's? I personally hate RSJ's.
@OfficeBoyBuilder
@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын
Yes I did! I actually spoke to the structural engineer about it and whilst glulam beams are very strong (and attractive I think!) He said it's hard for them to calculate the strength and bearing capacity of something I've made at home. It's also really hard to create the pressure needed to laminate the beams adequately, just by using the clamps I've got in my workshop.
@TheToolnut
@TheToolnut 3 жыл бұрын
@@OfficeBoyBuilder I find most structural engineers to be very conservative in their outlook. Most of them have closed minds, basically if it's not in the manual it's not possible. When I worked in America we used to laminate our own beams from 10"×2" or 12"×2", glueing and nailing each successive layer together usually with a layer of ply between the sandwiches of dimensional timber. If we had the bodies on site we'd man handle them into position or use lifting aids. Otherwise we'd laminate them in position, afterwards we'd put coach bolts through every four feet or so. Absolutely bomb proof, not going anywhere. Plus one can fix the slab or whatever finish straight onto the beam if it's projecting below the ceiling. Also as timber is naturally warm it doesn't necessarily need to be insulated like an R.S.J does. The same goes for L.V.L's only they have to be lifted into position in one piece. Steel is cold, heavy, hard to cut, hard to fix to and the amount of work needed to box them off so that they can be hidden is crazy. I don't buy your engineers point about not being able to quantify the load bearing capacity of a site laminated beam. These are simple enough calculations to make, all this information is available online and in texts.
@TheToolnut
@TheToolnut 3 жыл бұрын
In conclusion I believe it has much more to do with the steel lobby, insurance and liability.
@TheToolnut
@TheToolnut 3 жыл бұрын
Also commercially made L.V.L's have associated span and load ratings. I really can't see the issue, 🙄
@pawepanasewicz7679
@pawepanasewicz7679 Жыл бұрын
Is it really good idea to lay bricks on a timber ? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j6t6nsl4m5jJpWQ.html
@OfficeBoyBuilder
@OfficeBoyBuilder Жыл бұрын
It will most likely be fine, and the building inspector was happy to sign it off. It's probably better to cut out that timber header and lay the new course of bricks on the existing brickwork.
@largespanner
@largespanner 3 жыл бұрын
Steels should be sat on pad stones
@OfficeBoyBuilder
@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын
I think you meant to write "steels can sit on padstones" The fact is, lofts have been built using this technique for years now, and the structural engineer and building inspectors both sign it off...
@largespanner
@largespanner 3 жыл бұрын
@@OfficeBoyBuilder no I didn't, as an engineer I always insist all steels in loft conversions are sat on padstones to distribute point loads safely, in fact on all designed solutions thank you 😅
@kevocos
@kevocos 2 жыл бұрын
@@largespanner ok, fine. I promise to do it your way Mr bossman🙄
@largespanner
@largespanner 2 жыл бұрын
@@kevocos PMSL
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