Lots of guys on garage journal have said Morton is the best, nice to hear it from their workers too

Why would you need a moisture barrier between metal and fiberglass? Are you afraid the fiberglass is going to rot?

@@c4call he might live in a warmer climate where you want to cool the shop more than you heat it. Then yes the moisture Barrier would be on the inside rather than the inside for a colder climate.

I got the feeling the building structure is their focus. Other options could be a lot more. Even my salesman recommended getting some of the work done by someone else.

Oh man, I really want to as well. They are great for so many things. I just need to find one in my price range. They are expensive and renting isn't too bad.

$5-$20k

It depends on what climate zone you are in. That dictates what site the vapor barrier goes on, basically depending if you are in a cooling or warming climate.

@@ckm-mkc you got it right. The VB goes on the predominantly hot side. Florida = exterior, Montana = interior.

You need to have air flow through the wall cavity though

It's easy! The Amish do not have the overhead that Morton has to pay along with the Amish do not pay in unemployment, health care and so no that all adds up quick! Same thing going on in my area now, all the big poll builders have gone on to building metal industrial buildings and let the Amish build poll sheds now just that they can do it so fast and cheap!

@@bryanginder5903 The Amish are all skilled hard working dedicated people , Not knocking Morton but it’s all about money , the salesman has to get his Commission along with the other overkill . I own my own business, I get it . Seem like if you wanted to add anything it was a extra $10.000 . My neighbor had Morton build his , they did a good job for a box with just a slider barn door . My barn wasn’t just a 40 x 60 box it was custom built to my design with a enclosed finished lean-to with 4 over head garage doors with 3 entry doors to access the rooms from the inside and 2 large doors on the main building with 2 entry doors and windows . A front and back angled covered finished porches on the attached 24 x 32 man cave with doors , windows , a slinder patio door with a locking slider barn door to cover the patio slider . All the overhead doors were insulated , quality windows , lumber and materials all around quality . Unbelievable . I was just lucky , it was built a year before Covid and Biden . Can’t afford to work on anything now .

What size was your building ?

@@kbmotorsportsonline 36x54x14 with a finished 12” lean-to with with 3 storage rooms , 4 garage doors on the lean-to and 3 indoor entry doors entering from the large building . 2 large barn doors with 2 entry doors on the big building under the cover patio areas . Looking at the front the lean- To is on the left and a 24x30x10 is on the right with a 9 x30 front covered area and a L shaped covered area in the back . I only concreted the large barn and the lean-to areas . I added a 20x24x8 with a 8x12 mud room next to the 24x30 for the mechanical room , bathroom , laundry room and a office but still have to finish the the the 2 small rooms with floor heat and stuff . Everything price wise has kinda gone to hell but will finish it at some point . I build it before covid and added the on after covid it cost a chuck of change for the small additional part .

I bought it from Morton. My local dealer has extra rolls from previous projects that they were willing to sell me for about $100 each.

Which way do you put the 2x4 on to the post?

Great question since I messed this up originally. You want the 2x4 top to be level with the bottom of the truss. Then on top of the 2x4 you screw down another board to give you a surface to mount the ceiling against. The lower face of that board should be level with the bottom of the trusses so the ceiling material would be level. I hope this makes sense.

Sorry to be a pain but in video you show pre drilling the 2” side but you should actually pre drill the 4” side. Sorry for all the questions but this has me stumped and Morton tried to help but your video shows it better.

My quote included metal walls and the insulation but I agree it's really high.

My bays are 8' as well

I worked through my sales person at the time. My Morton dealer, out of Wooster, Ohio, let their crews sell the extra rolls to customers directly. I've learned that isn't something done at other locations so results may vary. Contact you your salesman and see what he can offer.

It's something I was interested in as we have it in our house and love it. It wasn't directly offered by Morton, they would have the concrete contractor. I remember some early discussion of what that would cost but it was WAY more than I would be willing to spend. I then asked just to have to tubing run and hook it up later and it was still more than I was able to spend. I don't remember what the $ number was unfortunately but it was a sizable bump.

I honestly don't remember the cost. I can say I used 7 boards (+1 pressure treated) per bay. I have 28 full bays plus 4 partial that used less boards because of the garage doors. A rough estimate is 250 boards used and that includes the ones I used to frame my 3 windows and man door. Ballpark it was

The vapor barrier goes on the warm side. If you're on the inside of the building it would be metal, cross strapping, plastic wrap, insulation, cross strapping then outside metal.

My plan is to have Morton do the ceiling. They blow in a few feet of insulation on top of the interior metal sheeting.

@@Unit2345 Here is info from someone who did an area similar in size to yours. April is a very ambitious wood worker doing her own thing. This was just one part of her building her shop. I don't know if your forays into KZfaq pays as well as hers has to afford things but, like you, I just want to share info. for what its worth to you. Nice work on yours. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ntF1hcqVv5-VkWQ.html

I've followed her channel for a few years and discovered her not much before she built her building. My hats off to her, she does some great work. I wish I had the time to take on a project like that start to finish. My little channel only provides me entertainment while I fiddle with the bus and deal with the building.

@@Unit2345 just spoke to them about this, having a slow process getting a rough estimate from them for 42 by 80 insulated

@@richfortin08 I have one on my email from 2 weeks ago for that exact size building. With (2) 12x14 garage doors and (1) 12x12 I'm looking at a touch over 200k. There are some extras that I am wanting so you could be +/- that depending on what you're looking for.

From the outside: the steel. From the inside: the poly vapor barrier.

I didn't. Each bay is about 7.5' wide if that would help get a price

I’m paying $.90 per board foot for closed cell in my shop.

I did and it was a lot more I can't remember the exact price but I remember the sticker shock

Plus you don’t want to spray against the steel in case you need to repair later. Install building wrap prior to spraying

I thought about doing radiant heating. We have it in our house and love it. The cost for putting it in a building of this size was cost prohibited so we didn't pursue it. The plan is to a hanging heater for the building with heating and AC for a finished room.

@@Unit2345 So what kind of money are you talking about to do radiant heat in your building?

Boy, I can't remember a specific number. I just remember what ever it was I very quickly decided that was out of my price range. Sorry I don't have anything specific

@@Unit2345 that’s interesting, i did some maintenance on my 26 year old Detroit Radiant heater this summer, while ordering parts I asked the salesman how much to replace my existing heater, about $1600.00, I paid about $1250.00 when I originally purchased it, I thought that was very inexpensive considering how much other items have gone up since 1995!

@@jeffw7644 I think the biggest expense is putting the pex in the floor. Parts and labor

I haven't done mine yet. I need to finish some inside framing and do the electrical work. My plan is to do it next winter.

We wish we had added more windows and a second man door. The wife had made arrangements for the prep work. I'll ask if she still has his contact info.

It's 48'x80' with 16' walls. I made a video about its construction of interested. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nK-FiauKvq_cfHk.html I've been very happy with the building.

No regrets using Morton. One thing I would have done differently is a second man door and a few more windows.

@@Unit2345 It's OKI think I would've just put the windows up a little higher so you get more sunlight in there That's what I would have done

Their sole purpose is to hold the insulation against the 2x4.

Foam will void the warranty of the metal with Morton from what I was told.

The State of Ohio! O-H

@@Unit2345 Cool thanks!

What frost depth/code for footings are you talking about? In northern parts of the country u gotta be down usually 42” and that cost is more than finishing the walls I think. Also a certain population of folks first have funds for the initial structure at first, then later work on fini$hing it I believe.