This is a great video!! Keep up the great work guys, this was incredibly helpful!

I can’t believe that on a video showing how to change the intake manifold gasket, you didn’t change the knock sensors. It’s just smart to do it while the manifold is out. It saves having to do this exact process to change them when they fail later. Customers hate paying twice for the same labour, and I hate screwing them that way too .

2 hours on my 4.8. Thanks for the video guys and showing the injector clips. A few videos skipped that part. Saw u changed the throttle body, I unscrewed the 3 bolts and pulled it forward instead of undoing the coolant lines.

ONE HOUR!! Sweet!! I’ll be watching g this 5x before I do it next weekend, so I can cut my last one of 3 hours down to ONE!!! Thank you for this video!! Wish I would’ve found this several years ago!!!

This video just saved me at least 300 bucks. I also learned that my PCV valve is bad because my intake is full of oil. Which is what caused the gasket to get gross . So if you take your intake off and there is oil everywhere that’s the problem. Also you can just take the throttle body off and not mess with those coolant lines; it was impossible without his little tool.Thanks for the video guy!!!!!!

I did this process step by step. And was great. Thank you for help us out. Save me some on not going to the mechanic shop.

Well isn't that mechanic just a bundle of joy. I am usually in the same mood after working on most vehicles ha.

Very helpful! Took me around 4.5 hours including cleaning the mating surfaces, experimenting with ways to disconnect the fuel lines (2) before finally buying that tool ($10), and also dropping an injector lock clip UNDER the intake after bolting it down. I left the throttle body coolant lines connected and just rested it out of the way when it came time to pull the intake out.

Hey Everyone! Today was the day !! I have a 03 Tahoe 4.8l and I watched numerous videos of the removal of the Intake manifold and replace the gaskets, Blue Driver is a excellent Video but remember my vehicle is old I even watched about the NOC sensors and even for extra credit I watched the replacement of the Oil Pressure sending unit since mine wasn't working it needed to be replaced. The oil sending unit was the absolute worse even with the intake off.. There must be a tool for that ! The socket was to big to fit! I used a needle nose vise grip. At 12pm today I started to rip apart the intake manifold,, and Blue Driver makes it look so easy.. Which is not although they are experienced. Well I learned a lot today. first off My truck is 16 years old anything past the 12 year mark you will encounter many unseen problems. Such as almost all small plastic connectors " The safety Locking tabs broke from the injectors, then I hit the Heater T connector and broke it, That was fun! Bought a new one, Then I checked the NOC sensor I broke the white part of the stem of the noc, Bought a new one, then the real fun began! Cleaning the deposits of the both sides of engine and intake... I was super careful due to the 1/8 inch high of oily dirt deposits. Vacuuming is a major part of the cleaning! its been 11 hours still not done yet! at 35 degrees outside no garage wearing shorts and long sleeve shirt. I was careful and I'll be honest almost these connectors are bridle and just plain old. It got late and with a headache I quit for the night I'll seal the Noc sensor's covers then install the intake. It's worth watching other videos because guys like me don't do major repairs like this but not afraid I took my time. I'' be honest it was fairly easy just older vehicles you will encounter problems.. btw I can't find my 10 mm with extension its somewhere in the engine hiding lolol WD-40 is big help on certain things,,, Good Luck !!!

Thanks fot taking some time to explain how the confounded connectors work. Very helpful!

Thank you for posting this video. This is the best, detailed, straight forward video I have found on GM 5.3L manifold gasket replacement.

Just finished this job which took me a total of 15 hours on different days. My 2001 suburban had a cruise control and accelerator cable which was not covered. The injectors were not easy to remove and replace especially the ones in the back and on the drivers side. Make sure the pull all of the slack from the manifold on the knox sensor. I had to go back and loosen the manifold bolts because the knox sensor wire was to short to hook on the manifold, UGH!!!!! Nevertheless, the manifold gaskets were completely worn. There were leaves, leaves, and more leaves with a sprinkling of acorns. Overall, I loved the experience and Jim and Chris are a excellent instructors along with making mistakes. I'm on to the AC belt and tensioner, next brake pads, and my Gray Ghost will be fortified. Thanks BlueDriver!!!!!!

I just bought a 05 sierra about a month ago and a week later I got a check engine light. I pulled the same codes😢. I appreciate you for making this video, I really liked that you showed the re-assmbly. First video I've seen that does that unlike other people who just tell you to do the same steps in reverse lol. Thanks guys!

As a DIYer these videos are fantastic. Any other common failure fixes you could add to this playlist would be greatly appreciated!👍🧡

Thanks for putting this out there. Hitting every point and adding in humor is a big win. :)

Thanks for the video guys! It really guided me through my 02 Tahoe intake gasket today!

Great video. I would though recommend using the better design felpro gaskets, and looking up the gm service bulletin on replacing the knock sensors, building the rtv dam around them, and deleting the rear foam as it seems to trap moisture. On these ls motors a little research and a few extra bucks can save a lot of time having to go back in for something that was right next door to your previous project

Good video but I just have to go out of my way to give major props to whatever editor was genius enough to put a video section graphic along the YT play time bar at the bottom. WOW!! How has nobody ever thought of that before?!?!

Awesome video guys!! I love my BlueDriver scan tool for helping troubleshoot things like this.

Just did this and my valve covers on my 01 Yukon XL, following along with the video. I did have a couple slight differences like a fuel return line and an exhaust line into the side of the intake. Great video thanks for the help!

Thank you so much for doing this video, it was sooo helpful! I have a return fuel line just below the fuel supply line , so I had to check other videos to see what it was and it's the same disconnect procedure as the supply fuel line. Great video, keep it up!

Thank you guys great video I just fixed my 2001 chevy Silverado gasket thanks to this video 👍

First of all. Great video. I had no problems following along and got my intake off and back on. Couple things to note. First I don't think you mentioned to plug the Fuel pump relay back in...don't forget that.. And for my truck( 03 suburban ) everything was the same except I have 2 fuel lines to remove and my clips on my injectors were a little different. Did not have the safety flip switch things. It was just squeez and pull off Thanks again for the video. Took me about 3 hours. But I cleaned EVERYTHING real good while I had it all apart.

Thank You !! For the Video ! Excellent Job I have a Tahoe and I need to replace the gaskets. I have the same codes I need a warm day to do this job.!! TY

Thank you guys for this video and tutorial, about replacing knock sensors! Also putting the step by step instructions in the description! I just did mine today, everything went great! Thanks again! 👍🏽

Your channel is always helpful !!

Thank you so much for doing these videos. I appreciate it so much

fantastic video. I have the confidence to do this now!

Great video guys, really helped me out a lot thanks!

wow exceptionally well done..very clear and concise yet entertaining (I'm easily entertained!)... thanks a zillion for posting this...I'm subscribing... :)

Great video.i went ahead & changed my knock sencors while i had the intake off.

Great video!! Gave me confidence and went smoothly👍🏻

Very good! I wish you guys would do a video on DTC P0010 (intake camshaft position actuator solenoid) removal and replacement on a 2011-ish Chevy Impala LS 3.5L. You always see people making videos on the Malibus, etc. with 2.4L (solenoids easy location). If you can please make a video. Many people need this!

Had to Subscribe, a great channel. Thanks for the help guys on my Chevy trucks.

This video makes everything seem so easy

you guys do great videos

Great video guys thank you

This video is a lifesaver!!!

Thank you so much! This video saved my moms 02 5.3 chevy silverado! Ben wanting to get to blue driver for a while customer service like this has got me sold will be ordering soon. It cleared / fixed 6 codes P0442 P0332 P0300 PO174 P0171 P0101. Could not have done it with out the video

Great tutorial!

By far the best video on this. Thanks guys. About to do this next week. Do you also have a video on replacing the knock sensors as well?

Did mine in 2hrs yesterday but, I did a lot of scrubbing/cleaning while I was in there. And soaked and scrubbed the throttle body as well. Also, If yours is older with EGR, don’t break the pipe. You’ll have a large vacuum leak and it won’t idle.

Beautiful job

Love the video. saved me time and money taking my '03 to a shop. I do notice you did this job with the fan shroud removed. Might want to reference/make another video on how to do that. It isn't required to remove it to do this job but you don't mention it either way. Also, some of these 5.3L's are equipped with throttle cables. A reference to that would be helpful as well.

Thanks for the video you saved me some money and a headache I'm sure

Great job masters.

Thanks for the great video !

Great video Thank you.

Great video! Thank you!

Awesome videos thanks

Nicely done

Awesome video!

Thank you for making this video, you made an intimidating task very easy to do.

Great video guys this is going help when I do mine next week! Gotta replace the knock sensors. I'm about to check out the one you guys did on the knock sensors right now!

Good video will be doing mine on my 2000 Silverado

Well explain video 👍👍

I have a 2002 gmc yukon xl 1500 slt 5.3L LS engine with 237,000 miles ("Z") on the eight digit in Vin number. I will be replacing the knock sensors soon and was wondering if I should go ahead and plan to replace my fuel injectors at the same time???? I'm also planning to replace my crankshaft sensor and oil pressure sensor too. I did read the GM bulletin regarding the removal and disposal of the foam insert off the rear side of intake manifold and the RTV (red) around knock sensor seals leaving a small gap on back side. Again, thank you for all the videos and quick response.

Your good, I like your videos, just a suggestion 👍✌️

Gracias por compartir su trabajo actual uso una suburban 2004 y tiene problemas para arancar y ya en marcha tiene alnuna in estabilidad en el motor antes usaba una suburban 1994 ahora me toca aprender del motor 5.3 lts 2004 saludos desde la Ciudad de México.

You forgot to reinstall the fuel pump fuse. That could have someone scratching their head when it doesn't start. Other than that, great video👍🏾

excellent video, thanks, it helped A LOT! My 2004 Tahoe, vin z Flex fuel had different style electrical connectors at fuel injectors plus 2 fuel lines instead of the one from the video but otherwise spot-on. The whole project took me 4 hours.

Great video. Will be using this to change knock sensors. Would it also be good to replace the oil pressure switch as well? Thanks.

You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍 Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌

I just bought a truck like this last week... I have to do this job because it's leaking coolant from under the intake. Doesn't look too difficult.

Good job sir

great video

If u have ever changed out your transmission or ever pulled a motor this is easier

Awesome!!Subscribed!! ..

Thanks guys... Can I safely assume that this procedure would be the same on my 4.8 liter Silverado?

Thank you so much for the detailed video. I am sure when I get to the knock sensor replacement ( as soon as I get the parts) your video with be indispensable. If you doh't mind giving me more advice, does this affect replacing the Valve cover gaskets and grommets? Since I will have it all apart, should I do them at the same time? They have been leaking for a while now, and it seems that it would be easier to do it when everything is apart for the knock sensors replacementI. I have 20,200K-miles on it. It seems a good time to replace the plugs (only plug change was at 105K miles). and wires. Thank you, Gentlemen.

Nice... should mention replacing the knock sensors and harness while your In there too

Great video. 2020

Fixing to tackle this job. Do I need a EGR pipe gasket.

Thanks.

So how long should this repair last? How many miles? I had this issue fixed 2 years ago at the gmc dealer and recently check engine light came on, took it to same dealer again and it’s the same problem!! And of course warranty on the work has expired. Was told it’s just normal wear, this doesn’t sound right -

Funny i helped a mechanic do that same thing on my 97 S10 with the 4.3 engine, it took 12 man hours, this one looks a lot easier, is it because of more room under the hood?

Might add, while you're in that deep, to change the knock sensors those things go out all the time.

Great video. Hey you should do the oil pick-up tube o'ring

Coming from a diesel back to a gas truck I LOLed when y’all said $100 wasn’t cheap for the gaskets. Never going back to diesels.

Is there a valley gasket on the intake manifold that is a big rectangle?

My fuel injectors looked nothing like these. Took two hours just to get them disconnected. Old and brittle. I wouldn't give that job to my mother inlaw.

Great video EXCEPT......I have a 20001 4.8 GMC Sierra with a big ole 1" dia steel tube originating at the exhaust manifold connecting to the passenger side intake manifold with a 2 bolt flange just aft of the throttle body. Plus there are 2 additional electrical connectors on the driver side of the throttle body. And no throttle cable. Am I looking at a model built for California emissions? And can you point me to a KZfaq video that accounts for these and any other differences? Also, doesn't the air have to bled out of the fuel lines? And did you remind us to reconnect the fuel pump relay?

Would this similar with a 2001 Yukon XL 1500 6.0?cuz I may try to do this,but good vid...

Why is the Manifold rebolting a 2 stage process? what would happen if i just bolted down in order without a torque ratchet and just used a regular rachet?

Change the oil pressure sensor and knocking sensor as well

I got 2 of them lined

In the fel-pro kit what are the o-rings for ?

So on the torque wrench how would you set it up to inch pounds

For anybody watching this don’t put a OEM gasket back on buy a fel-pro or something else good the gasket that works better actully installs on the heads vs on the intake

I'll like to see when you read the codes and how you come to the conclusion is that, if other Codes are showed

I get P0171 and P0174 but only in extreme cold. The idle is noticeably rough when this happens. After driving for a while it smooths out and doesn't happen I warm temps (20+ degrees). Could this be the culprit?

"it comes owt"

do you have a part number for the intake manifold in this video? how about the part number for the gasket set, i do not see one

Oh my God they didn't clean the engine

can these gaskets cause a coolant leak?

So much for that evap line.

Just so folks know this job usually ends up with replacing the fuel lines. In the rust belt states most of the time it is impossible to get those fuel lines off the rail without em cutting em off and then separating the collars on the work bench. The harder part is separating all those plastic parts and connectors without breaking anything. This video illustrates the stuff fairly nicely. Alot of the parts have hidden clips and tabs which are a real pain in the ass period. In the rust belt states I don't care what tool ya use and what solvent ya use to get em to give. On the older 99 to 2004 Silverados you will not get your hand back behind on the line and collar itself to separate em. I noticed 2005 on up there is a little more room between the firewall and the motor itself. Not so from 99 to 04. I could contemplate buying fuel lines at whatever extorted price they may want.

Would this be the solution to fixing lifters ticking really bad on cold start up?

Does this work on 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 6.0L

I just relieved the fuel pressure by using a small screwdriver on the schrader valve. Done.