Still much better than my welding! Would be interesting to see how much better a flux gas welder would do!

Video Idea: Print a UAV with a rocket engine. Tomatoes are disgusting! Edit: thank you guys, really thank you for the support. I'm an agricultural engineer ("studying" for the comment below) and a 3D printer can really help my research. Edit 2: maybe an FPV version can be better to take a look at a tomato up close (when it is burning of course). Remember! Tomatoes are disgusting!

"If I can't buy, I DIY." I like it.

You've revealed my secret reason for going by J. It only takes 4 teslas to spell my name. I'm practically saving the planet.

Have you ever heard of lost PLA casting, its a way of creating metal parts out of plastic 3d prints. I believe it would help you build your metal rocket nossle and be an intresting video.

As a professional welder who's pondered this, Ill say you could improve this massively by using normal mig wire and co2 gas, then you won't have slag. Also have the torch 90* to the steel not the ideal angle but atleast its consistent with the drag/push of the arc

My Gcode told me to come to this video's coordinates at a rate of F6000

When welding thin sheet metal such as in autobody work, they stitch the pieces together or let each weld cool instead of going continuously, which obviously distorts it. Also using argon/CO2 as your flux instead of a flux core wire will help in production.

Video idea: make an engine that fuels from wood that powers a lathe , so the wood shavings will be used to power it again

Integza: "gcode can only do straight lines" G02 & G03: "What am I, a joke to you?"

Makes it seem so easy... For me just to model a pen holder and 3D print it would be half a day's work... That Nikola fella behind you is very very happy to be in your lab.. Never taking yourself seriously, being happy, not worrying about failures, actually expecting things to go wrong so you learn more... Wow... You are the Man!

You can use a 3d printed plastic part for the "lost wax" method of metal casting. Aluminum or brass should be achievable with a fairly simple furnace.

Shouldn’t angle the nozzle like this when building up material and travelling in different directions. Actually did something very similar years ago for repair filler welding using a fully articulated ABB arm robot. We had it oscillate on the axis perpendicular to the travel to gain line width and manage the HAZ. This got us very good and even line height and surprisingly nice finish

the guy just rick rolled everyone with a 2d rick astley in a 3d printer, what a strategy

This video is more chaotic than that of your old uploads. Keep it

I would LOVE to see a video that explores some cost effective ways to make castings from 3d printed parts at home. There are a lot of tutorials showing how to do lost pla castings or how to use silicone. But all of them require fancy expensive equipment that most of us don't have or cannot afford.

I've never been so happy to get "Rick rolled", well done sir!

My years of welding is causing me to cringe while still being intrigued.

Just found your channel and I'd say it's my new fav, at least with the kind of material. Keep up the great work!!!

You can use plastic to create a mold for pouring molten metal in. 3d print the part, place in mold, melt plastic out of mold using kiln, heat metal to melting point, heat mold to 1000 degrees then pour metal in mold. Finish the part by grinding the excess metal from the pour spout and ensure you have multiple holes to allow air to escape

Video Suggestion: You could try making a mold from ceramic filament, and using it to make something out of metal

Video Idea: Build a 3d printed railgun that can absolutely destroy tomato's with pure kinetic energy (even in the can, where they feel safe)

The few home hacked CNC welding machine attempts I’ve seen, don’t really work all that well but yours was one of the best for showing how you did it. Just had another thought! copper-clad 0.5 or 0.6mm welding wire, CO2 in the enclosure and drop the feedrates and current to bare, reliable miniumum. Wirefeed welding translated to FDM is like a 500% filament feed rate compared to FDM printing.

I did this exact thing for my senior project in 2021, had pretty much the same issues as you had. It works, but it isnt pretty and isnt predictable enough, plus the sparks and slag can damage components if you dont have a way to contain it. Also the bed issue is one we had and couldnt solve, even with thick steel it either melts through or warps with enough use

Hey, Integza! I noticed you're a little less pumped up as usual in this video. Don't worry, it's great as always! Just wanted to, as a fan, check if everything is ok.

I love how you can see the metalsheet bending over time.

This is a great concept I’m assuming you’re using flux core wire as opposed to gas I think you get better results with gas and things would stay a little cooler as well but that’s only one small part of the bigger picture this is definitely worth pursuing I think you’re onto something just need a lot more work to get it right I hope you keep playing with this I think it has massive potential👍👊

Soils core with inert gas would keep you from having to grind after every layer.

Hi 👋 If my lathe or milling machine could help you in any way, just send me an email. I am not an engineer of course, but I definitely can make some simple stuff :)

"Never say never and never give up!" Let's see, "I built a Metal 3D Printer using my Welder - Part 2!" You can do it!

Hey so here's a suggestion, so my dad is a master mechanic and over the years I've helped and learned to work on cars/trucks etc. When doing body work and your welding 2 pieces of metal together to make your bumper, fender etc whatever it is your working on, the trick to make your piece keep its shape as your welding it is to spot weld it. Spot welding is pretty much a tac weld but you do it so short and quick the metal doesn't get hot. The metal being cold/room temperature as you weld on it is key for it to keep its shape and not twist/warp on you. I hope this suggestion helps! I love all the videos I'm a huge fan 😊

*Ideas!* I am so glad to see that you tackled this, and it works! Have you tried on a piece of refractory or pumice block (such as a barbeque scrubber brick)? That said, the thinness of the metal is bulging up into the workspace causing the shorting. Congratulations on your homework. 600K worth of education here!

When he revealed the fan placement, I was just counting down the seconds to major meltdown.

"Just because an idea seems stupid, does that mean we shouldn't try it? Well, that's exactly what it means, but It doesn't matter. Because I'm going to try it anyway." Lol 😂

Video idea: Record sound or data on a 3d printed disc or cylinder like vinyl records or Edison wax cylinder.

Got here following some of AvE's work/videos/comments. Glad I did. I subscribed. You make some fascinating videos. Keep making them and i'll keep watching em. Thanks for sharing them.

"I'm not made of gold" yet gives away 3d printer every video

Amazing how close you were to getting this working. A few changes would get you much closer! 1. Find a mill to make a metal clamp for the welding gun. 2. The welding gun doesn't need to be tilted, that's mainly so you can see what you're welding, but you don't need to see. 3. You seem to be using flux cored wire, so you have to clean the slag with each layer. You can avoid this by using gas shielding. I would love to see you get this to make a metal benchy!

I suggest putting a blast case using acrylic clear around the base plate, with a hinge in front to reduce any spark's reaching your 3D printer component's. Prevent buildup on unwanted components. Also maybe you could place the metal ontop an ceramic fire brick plate, it might have a reducing effect on the warping effect. Maybe you could water-cool the tip giving you more height and precision control, suggest using a computer water cooler with strong metal heat block, if you want to continue pursuing this adventures. Love your videos and creativity! Please keep making them😊

Alternative Title: "How to destroy your heated Bed" xD

Was about to sleep but now... Integza Time!!!

Video idea: try casting metal in sand to make your nozzle. Use a 3d printed nozzle as the mold.

Wow, you turned a simple 3d printer into a 2d printer. Ingenious! You should patent that. I'm pretty sure nobody ever thought of this.

If you try in future, you should consider using a stone chopping board for a bed instead of sheet metal, and a thin wire mesh so the weld has something to bind to. I don't know much about welding but maybe also a thin layer of water to cool down the base, would pull heat out of the stone before it has time to build up and crack, would also stop the wire mesh from deforming during the base layer. can't wait to see more, good luck!

I totally addicted to his slang and funny attitude

That performed way better than I was expecting at the beginning of the video. Moving from flux core to really thin solid wire and a shielding gas would help a lot. I also think a think metal baseplate would probably be a requirement. Active cooling on the plate may also help. Very cool idea, I hope you can take the experimenting further with it.

Quite amazed really that the EMI from the welder didn't just knock the motherboard offline...

Metal shrink when cooled down and expands when heated. It's called metal shrinkage. The sheet on the bottom bends because it gets pulled together by the printed layers, which eventually cool down and start pulling together creating tension outside and inside the printed area.

Build your own CNC machine using easily available parts

Video idea: Do a competition between you and Tom Stanton to see whose engine makes more power (your rotary engine against his diaphragm engine). The loser has to plant a tomato tree. To make it fair both engines should have the same displacement.

Congratulations for being featured on Hackaday!!! This build is going to spark (pun not intended) a lot of interest!

I love MIG welding. Had fun in the multiple welding classes that i took. I want to get back into it but just haven't gotten around to it. I love your content dude. Your level of experimental work is awesome and I'm always excited to see what you are going to do next. I really appreciate your respect & passion about Tesla's work & what more u can learn about it and how to adapt it into modern projects 👍🏻

Integza, a perfect synonym for trial and error. These videos always manage to entertain me on the highest of levels.

Got an idea for you: please investigate the use of a ridicule number of extruders at once, in order to 3d print at ludicrous speed. It would be awesome!

May not have had the results you were looking for but the video was great like all of your others :) Keep up the great work!

Integza: "I'm not made of gold" *Proceeds to give away 3D printer*

Video idea: Instead of 3D printing steel, how about 3D printing tin? Indeed, judging by the melting temperatures and malleability, you might even be able to insert the regular tin roll into the plastic printing head. If not, you could mabe make it work with some modifications. It could be used to solder on a board or to make some metal pieces with completely different properties from plastic ones.

Video idea: in the next video, build a tomato can made of ONLY steam engines.

I have been wanting to test the centrifugal limits of printed parts and seeing if you can strengthen them by. After you print your part pre UV cure. Setup a rotary tool probably a die grinder and see if you can find a somewhat steady rpm to spin the piece while your UV cure it. It’s possible it might have some internal stress relief and could make a part be able to spin faster. Making like a dyson style vacuum etc. Or a compressor spool.

I think you might be able to do this idea with a TIG welder. There isn't splatter and the torch is smaller. It also can be pulsed and that may help with temp. control. The tricky part would be setting up the wire to be fed into the weld. But I'm sure there is a way to control that. There are many styles of torch heads on the market for TIG too.

You can make a cast of a 3D printed part to then pour metal in the cast.

Hi Joel I think you could use 3d printed patterns for metal casting to make your rocket engines. It can be stronger.

Video idea: Make a rc rocket with jet engine.

A Few Ideas. 1) pulse your welder to tack one dot at a time, instead of trying to do lines and layers with continuous runs. this will lessen your heat buildup and minimize bed warp. also flux core would be a good idea... 2) use a standard 3D printer to print a part, then make clay sectional molds of it. then just lay a ground wire into the mold's bottom and start tacking dots of weld into the molds cavity, filling it with weld (flux will be essential). once a section is complete, you can use clay to mold the next section and continue it until you've created the full piece. 3) use your ceramics methods to make negative molds and then you can fill them with weld as above. be sure to tack one dot of weld at a time, instead of running lines, as your ceramic may crack or shatter from too much heat. this would require meticulous and slow welding by hand, but should yield a passable piece, for relatively cheap, made of solid metal, and without being a master welder.

Finally, a part that can withstand an attack of tomatoes

“If I can’t buy, I DIY” words to live by ☝🏻

You need a 2 and 1/2 inch steel plate to prevent warping and you need an inert chamber. you'll also need a high temperature oven to put the parts in after.

In fact you can program arcs in Gcode with G02 and G03 which is used in milling quite often. Its needed for older machines and manual programming. But with newer machine we can just throw a ton of point commands on it to make it almost round as you said....

try making a robot arm that will cut a tomato into many small pieces like in one of the James Bond movies (I think it was Gold Finger)

Idea for a future video: You should definitely begin applying your rocket engines to some simple vehicles, such as a little rocket car, and maybe even further down the road an actual rocket.

I've got an idea: put your brazing kit onto some sort of chamber. That brazing kit will melt bronze or metal or other metals that are heat-resistant. Then the liquid metal will flow out of the chamber via a tube that is connected to that chamber, and then it will go through a heat-resistant valve connected through a nozzle. That nozzle will dispense the liquid metal onto the build plate. I mean, the liquid metal needs a long time to dry, so this process probably won't work. Another idea: use this idea but put it into some sort of machine that replicates injection molding. You can injection mold parts but the plastic is metal.

Best RickRoll ever! I love the dry, deadpan humor. You are definitely my best subscription this month.

Change to MIG. That flux isn't good to weld over. MIG you can just keep stacking it up.

Thank you for a unique experience! I’ve never been Rick rolled by a 3D printer printer before. I’m honored to have been a part of this social experiment.

add a large cup or shield over the nozzle to help with spatter of the flying metal. just an idea

since it's so hot right now. cuz we're going into summer now, build a mega fan that's actually really dangerous because the fan blafes are actual knife blades

Video idea: Get all of your engines that you have made and test them side by side for speed, torque, efficiency, etc.

G code actually supports circular motion via g2 and g3 functions.

I’d like to see more on this. Let’s see you 3D print your own 3D printer

I absolutely love that it kinda works. $120 welder + $200 printer means we're really close to seeing $500 metal 3d printer kits on AliExpress. Can't wait to see all the nasty fires. The future is bright!

How about 3D prininting a form, then casting the engine.

Use a turkey to insulate your rocket.

A project I have always wanted to do but never got around to is build a clear crude oil separation processing system. Would be awesome to see you take a swing at it.

hi, i thinker about this for a while and i think the solution is to do "print" using mig and spots instead of trying to do a full pass, you could do pauses in the g-code to let everything cool down a bit and then do the next spot. keeping the print surface in an enclosed enviroment full of argon also, may help to keep the cost of argon down

You should make an engine that's fueled by burning tomatos.

Build a mini bioreactor... and turn tomatoes into energy.

Using hardware with 25/75 shielding gas with less stick out would leave you with no slag to clean after each pass and less spatter. Angling your nozzle can also push the bead in directions you don’t want it to go since a big concern is accuracy on x and y planes.

no gas on the mig, having a gas flow will help with splatter, keep the nossel cooler, a metal bracket and using aluminium X chanel for the horizontal bar would help, anti splatter, change the speed of wire, and temperature of the electricity

Video suggestion: make an engine run on tomato bio fuel and make the tomato’s family watch

video idea: 3d print a turbocharger and test it on a car or small engine to see if it actually works.

There is G-Code for curves, but it's usually on 32bit controller boards due to it being difficult to do on 8bit boards. Another issue you may run into is electrical noise from the welder impacting the controller or leads to the steppers if they're not shielded / are too close

3:15 that is not true! With G2 and G3 you can tell your machine to draw an arc.

Build a fpv drone to shoot cool videos of rockets and flying engines!

That's great! I thought of exploring the idea myself after ToT video. As for warping sheet steel will always suck, even thick pieces will bend into banana if You heat them up in such small area. My suggestion is that You can use bunch of short pieces of steel square profile, 20x20x2 mm for example, and weld them together side to side to form bed like this □□□□□□□□□ It won't warp that easy. For the nozzle mount I'd use a cheap pipe bracket and attach it to narrower section just behind the thick black isolator above the metal nozzle, it heats up much slower. You can angle the wire straight down, 90° to the surface. It won't matter. Acually for print it would be ideal to "drag", not to "push" because then the bead is "narrower" but "higher" and it will print in Z axis faster. I think it's an idea worth exploring. Maybe not with this kind of welder though, gasless wire leaves a lot of residue compared to welding even on cheapest solid wire + CO2 or CO2/Ar Mix. Probably best setup is pulse DC TIG + cold wire because it's cleanest and most precise but that would be a big buck and I don't know if You'd bald quickly enough to pay the expense with Keeps sponsorship money xD Please, please, please continue this topic! We all can learn a lot! :D

I know nothing about 3D printing but I know a little bit about welding and something that might help you is to change to a welder that uses argon as a shielding gas instead of the flux coating on the wire. Also you can use copper or aluminum for the bed because steel will not stick to it but it can still strike an ark.

I have too many silly ideas and not enough time but another idea I wanted to build was a home made flow bench. Using a MAF sensor from a car and some printed parts. Then use it to see and test dimple porting and add smoke for visual. Also you could simulate erosion and see if you can fix corners and leading edges of parts by forcing laminar flow in said parts or upstream.

I recommend placing the entire setup in a fish tank you can seal completely and replace the atmosphere with argon or other noble gas. Splashing will be less of a problem and cooling will be much easier.

Video idea: Make a waterjet (pump) for a rc boat. Design and optimize the pumps impeller pitch, Nozzle diameter and inlet design.

There should be a metal 3d printer using welding filaments in IPT Fraunhofer - Aachen, if you happen to be based nearby and wants to do an outside activity. I was there during 2009 and later. They have also integrated the mechanism to a milling machine, printing and finishing with just one setup, giving a smooth surface at the end. worth the visit.

If you move the Z axis could work. Instead of having the angle on the welding nozle you place it straight. The angle should be on the direction f welding but here all direction can be used so it's not good to have it. If you place the mast of the Z axis idk 20cm away you can hold the welding torch like you did the last time, with an angle on the bracket so the nozle is 90° in every direction. By deporting the frame you can move the nozle on the complete plate, and if you raise the frame you gain in height. For the printer the printer head is still at the same spot, you just made an offset because of the shape of the torch. Hope that it could be clear for someone else than me !