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Ceramic coffee mugs don’t leak. Glaze your ceramic part like a coffee mug and re-fire it in your kiln. P.S. Please use a secondary shield. Safety glasses are not enough. Either a blast shield or use a face shield with safety glasses so you have a double layer of eye protection.

I’ve never been so proud to be told I used to suck. 🤓

Try a ceramic pottery glaze to seal your engines, you could use different colours and patterns to make them look really badass.

3:34 just as im thinking "is it safe to be breathing that much dust?" you hit us with the "i think im high off ceramic powder" 12/10 timing

The hot combusted gasses are leaking out when the fuel pressure is increased. This tells me that the inner pressure is overcoming the vortex cooling pressure. Try increasing the air pressure for the vortex cooling as you increase the fuel pressure to maintain pressure proportions. It might be an idea to create a thrust monitoring mount as well instead of a vice so you monitor the performance of the engine before it goes Kaput... There might be info hiding there.

At 3:36: "I think I´m high on ceramic powder". You should wear a dust mask, as the ceramic contains silica and can cause silicosis in the lungs. Also known as stone lung.

Integza, you need a gasket in between those parts to seal it so it can keep pressure. If you use a finely ground cork held together with a high temperature rubber silicon glue, it will seal and keep the seal.

You could try making a Thrust Vector Controlled (TVC) engine bell / nozzle for your rocket engines. It's basically a nozzle attached to some gimbaling mechanism, which would allow you to redirect the produced thrust into a specific direction. I think this would look really cool and would certainly be very interesting. :^)

For your leaking problem, glaze your ceramic motor and you successfully manage to build a rocket teapot.

Aerospace engineer here. Try cooling the chamber with the fuel and oxygen! This is how, for example, the nozzles on the F1 engines on the Saturn V were cooled. On the outside of the chamber, have a series of pipes (printed as part of it) flowing around the chamber; then it will 1) cool the chamber a bit, and 2) pre-heat the fuel for a higher-efficiency burn. As for the leaking, try a slower heating profile. Raise and lower the temps in the kiln slower, in order to compensate for the doubled thickness recommended in the manual. This should give the trapped gasses more time to escape without forming microscopic cracks.

I love the way you repaired this engine as many times as you did, right into the video where you made the next version and still came back to this one.

Your videos reinforce the fact that very often the journey IS the destination. Thank you. I very much enjoy seeing your work.

Man the day this man learns how to properly work with metal...

"...more cracks than a nudist beach in the south of France." "I think I'm high on ceramic powder."

I like when people show how their projects failed in different ways. It's more honest and I actually think we can learn more. Also: slo-mo of engines on fire are dope.

The fact that I can watch someone make something that I have no clue existed or know how it works and still have a good time makes me happy

I suggest you mix up a batch of homemade sodium silicate (aka water glass). Melting point is about 1 088 °C and because its already in liquid form at room temperature, you'll be able to submerge/dip your ceramic parts into it, in order to seal them all the way through (from the inside and the outside). The problem with your current "exterior" sealing methods is that it's a bit like putting a piece of tape on the outside of a hose pipe - it won't hold, it just gets lifted/pushed off with just the slightest interior pressure. I noticed a few comments suggesting using pottery glaze ..and yes I agree, this is also a brilliant idea. Love the channel! Good luck!

I love how you are able to design 3 separate rocket engines that basically all work first-try, except for the minor detail they are essentially transparent for the gases you use.

Dude you are insane, I love it!! As a fellow maker and hobbyist I totally enjoy your content 🤘🏼

I love these videos and how you get excited about your fails (and successes). Keep em commin! Also giving away printers to those who can't make their own or afford one, love it! Put more positive into humanity!

Maybe try a simple pottery glaze on the outside of the ceramic to stop the leaking.

Perhaps an aluminum tube could become a jacket to your engine, and the gaps between the outer walls of the engine and the inner walls of the aluminum cylinder could be filled with ceramabond or another high temp cement.

To solve the leaking issue, you can coat the parts with more resin, after they are baked in the furnace. This way the engine can hold pressure and vortex cooling can then work. You just need to apply very thin layers (with a brush for example) and then cure the resin with some UV lamps. 3 to 5 coats should be enough.

The slo-mo with music is epic!

You could 3d print the "negative" of the engine, then cast it out of alloy. As far as I know, Alloy should be gas thight :P

You should definitely wear a like a n95 mask or respirator when removing the supports on the ceramic parts, silicosis ain't fun Video suggestion: I would love to see a video where you try doing one of these vortex cooled engines but printing them with different nozzle types like bell and aero spike nozzles and trying to compare the thrust somehow. Or if you just put one on a skateboard or something to see its true power

You could print a matching ring and groove on the two mounting faces so one fits into the other. Then it's not relying on just a flat surface to seal 👍 Great job, loved the last engine 🙂

Just a few ideas to run by you, instead of using just silicone on the outside, I personally would try using a sodium silicate epoxy or a titanium reinforced resin inside the engine to help seal and protect the thermal silicone that's outside. And maybe keep from getting blow outs. And for parts bolted together I would try making a metal gasket coated with silicone to seal the bits that are bolted together. Hope this helps

Here is an idea. After burning the resin off your ceramic parts and letting them cool, soak them in a strong sodium silicate solution(sometimes called water glass) for a couple hours, then heat your parts back up in the oven to 100-105 Celsius until thoroughly dry. At this temp sodium silicate solution will lose water and form a glassy material, which could hopefully seal up your engines. hope it works out! Cheers!

You should try a ceramic pottery glaze to seal the prints!

You could prevent leaking by applying the silicone on the inside. On the last test you could clearly see that the silicone got pushed away from the ceramic by the pressure inside and then popped. When the pressure just presses it harder onto the ceramic it won't have the space to flex and rip apart.

Integza Road to space. Keep up the rocket content I have binged 🚀💪👍🏻

You can put the parts in silica sand when curing in the oven. This helps to keep the shape.

I'm a phd student and I work with ceramic materials, so I think that I can give you some directions with your structural problems. Porcelite is mainly composed of Al2O3 (alumina), so you can take a look at some informations of the material. The theoretical densitie of it is 9.98 g/cm³, sou tou can use the Archimeds principle to measure the density of your pieces. If its too low compared with the theoretical one you have a problem with high porosity, so you need to find methods to solve this. The porosity is correlated to the grain size of the ceramic, and larger grains leads to higher porosity and less mechanical strenght. The longer you leave it in the kiln, the bigger the grain size will be. The same with high temperatures.[1]. So you can try change the heating rate, time and sintering temperatures. The accurate way to measure grain size is using a Scanning electron microscope, but i think that you won't have access to one, so you will have to come to a different experiment to evalute the quality of your samples. Maybe density (Archimedes) for porosity and mechanical strenght (Tensile testing) as a second figure of merit? The melting point of Al2O3 is around 2000 °C, so you could look if the temperatures that you are reaching are above this threshold. There is also the problem of the thermal expansion. When the alumina heats and cools the material expands and contracts, and crackings can appear, specially along grain boundaries (thats why smaller grains leads to stronger ceramics). And the material can have cracks after phase transformations that occours with temperature changes. I would recomend a pyrometer to check the temperatures during the runs. Finally, maybe when you pour the resin you create micro bubbles, which creates the pores in the curated piece. This happens a lot with resin castin. There are lots of techiniques to deal with this. [1] www.researchgate.net/post/How-different-is-the-sintering-temperature-of-size-small-big-different-powders-but-same-composition-when-they-get-the-same-grain-size-after-sintering

Integza, great video, for projects dealing with high heat like this one, consider using your 3D printer to create casting molds or sand molds, then use your furnace to melt aluminum cans and pour the molten aluminum into the sand molds. Is more complicated, expensive, and time consuming but you get real metal parts.

for your sealing issue i would suggest aremco 613 applied to the inside of the parts. So the hot gas forces the sealer into ceramic instead of forcing it away. As long as it is uniform and smooth it won't affect the vortex.

bro, your ceiling is literally a big wooden structure. Tell me you have a fire extinguisher around

"If it wasn't broken, it would work" - Integza, basically...

Awesome show Integza!!! Leaks, tricky. Standard automotive, thicker walls, more bolts on the flanges, and gaskets. Tricky with your ceramic process. Can you take a previously fired part and 3D print more material onto it, then refire? Go integza, go!

Fearless mad man ....love it!!!

I have suggestions. We need to change how we think about the sealing layer. It’s more than just a layer to plug the holes. It has three jobs: 1. Hold in the pressure of the engine. Think of the sealing layer as a pressure vessel. 2. Don’t melt or sublimate. 3. Don’t burn. What can you do to hold in the pressure? Some people have suggested putting a metal tube around the engine. That’s a great idea. Another idea would be to put a carbon fiber overwrap around the engine (with fireplace sealant as the resin, like you did for the pulsejet). You’re already handling “Don’t melt” with your film/vortex cooling. Speaking of the film/vortex cooling, blowing high pressure, pure oxygen over the inner surface of the engine is probably setting the sealing layer up to burn. We know that the ceramic structures are porous, so pure oxygen is definitely getting to the sealing layer. I suggest using your fuel as the film/vortex coolant.

Try to glaze it, probaly you will need 2 steps, oven to burn the resin and allow it to scape, and then add the glazing material and oven it again

i really like when the exhaust flow goes supersonic and the engine is like super sayan mode

Hi @Integza to sum up: 1) Avoid gas bubbles in the resin. Use ultrasonic degasing 2) Change temperature profile. Use a plateau at 300° and cool down very slowly to avoid tensions in the material. 3) Avoid any humidity before the surface is sealed 4) You need to fill in the gaps of the removed epoxy. But as there is already air in the gaps, you need to remove the air first. So use a vacuum chamber and a filler liquid. If you break the vacuum the filler liquid will be sucked into the material. 5) This liquid filler could be the porcelain resin again or something like sodium silicate, fire cement, glaze...or even salts, gypsum (1460°C) 6) Use the oven to dry it slowly below 100° before doing a second cycle. Otherwise if water remains in pores, it will make a lot of steam during vaporization, which ends in cracks and hollow spots 7) Use metal tubes or metal reinforced tubes for propane and oxygen, the plastic tubes get burned and cannot withstand heat 8) Use a blaster shield

Welcome to Integna Airlines, don't worry about the engine on fire, this is perfectly normal.

The English equivalent is "third time's a charm" The French version is like yours, never 2 without 3 (Jamais deux sans trois)

Love how he puts all of these other channels ads in his video and saying they " SUCKED "

Idk why i just love your videos

You can try glazing the part to avoid the porosity. Go to your local potter, he can explain to you the different materials and techniques.

*You rock!* 😎

Hey integza! I really like your efforts and love your vids you really do a good job , you inspire me to do such feats too! I had an idea to suggest you, you can try making a closed cycle rocket engine like the spaceX raptor engine, or try a simple rocket engine but with liquid propellants OR use methane or any fuel you like is gaseous form just like your aerospike

You have inspired me to build things and maybe make KZfaq videos doing so. You’re like a Portuguese version of me and man you have the charisma to give even Eeyore serotonin.

Your throat diameter is likely a bit to small, making the pressure build with higher thrust and force its way through the ceramic. Bigger throat

Why don’t you glaze it after it’s printed? Like pottery. No more leaks. I guess that’s a suggestion for future wedeo.

With ceramics, to reduce cracking cool very slowly and evenly. If your kiln has a cooldown program, reduce the temperature very slowly. This may be why 3mm has more cracks (stress created by temperature differences cause problems)

"And then serve it to the toilet" lmao I love Integza

"Has more cracks than a nudist beach in southern france." I'm dead😂😂

“We test things until they’re completely destroyed” Looks like we have the spirit of SpaceX

If you can get your hands on some Pratley Steel Putty you would never look back. A two-part hand mouldable putty that sets as hard as steel. This stuff is magic.

This idea would make an excellent hot gas thruster for reaction control systems, as it’s simple and possible to make reliable. Regardless it’s more efficient than using nitrogen gas for changing a spacecraft’s attitude.

You could print the engine and use it as a mold for a lost “wax” cast engine it would be easy enough to make a diy furnace to melt alloy

INTEGZA: "IF i solve the problem of the leaking, I have an engine" ME: "IF he solves the prpblem of the leaking, he has a b0mb"

You got me! So creative and funny!!!

Excellent job. Lots of learning and fun happening in that home. I was thinking that maybe, you might be able to increase/ improve gas flow, if the inside had spiral groves inside the combustion chamber. Reducing the amount of raddical eddies formed at the surface. (Btw, not a mech/ fluid eng.)

My theme suggestion: afterburners, how they work to add extra thrust to jets, and maybe add one to your 3D printed turbojet.

Try a type of electro plating the exterior after burning out the resin. That way there are layers of metal filling in all the micro holes.

I also recommend making a master shutoff valve for your system. have both the propane and air pumped through a set ov valves you can easily shut off without having to go to the main shutoff valves of each tank, and probably cut the gases off a lot sooner.

Saturate the ceramic in sodium silicate. Easy to get on the internet and has a waiter-like consistently to permeate the parts. Also use a vacuum chamber to remove air and fully replace the air voids with silicate. Sodium silicate is used to build heat resistant insulation in metal forges.

If that's legit ceramic you'll wanna be careful breathing in the dust cause that'll give you silicosis

"I'm not soft like my father" is such a good tomato joke. Instantly subscribed. :)

On the faces of the rims that meet when assembled make a narrow channel in the 3d model and during assembly use the heat resistant silicon between the rims of each part so that once it's set it acts like a made to fit heat resistant grommet, this would allow for any imperfections either in the printing or baking stages, don't tighten the nuts up all the way to start with leave about a half turn in each so that you can tighten it down on the silicon once it's set and be absolutely sure you've got a good seal on the joints before moving on to coating the outside. As well as all that maybe try a larger chamber or regulate the flow of the gases using solenoid valves operated by an arduino or pi, that way you can have consistent flow rates to zero in on the right mixture and PSI going into the engines.

You need to make an automatic attic fire extinguisher system!

"i think I'm high on ceramic powder" that's called silicosis...

One source of leaks looks like the seams between parts, try lapping the connecting surfaces before assembly so they are perfectly flat and in complete contact.

when firing your parts, insert a metal sleave to keep the diameter, it will allow you to print with thicker material, more precise printing and reduce the leaks, at least for the main cylinder.

14:25 The look on his face is just gold

It's time to start the Integza metal 3D printer fundraiser, the universe wills it

You could 3d print the rocket and then mold and cast it out of metal.

Yeah, that test looks like a safe thing to do on an attic! You're much more brave than I would be, sir.

Ah man. You were a hero for like three seconds

the way they instantly bust into flames. so symbolic of all my life's aspirations.

When one say "leaky porcelain", I'd think enamel coating... And since uou already have the kiln . 😉

There is ceramic based glue used to attach suppressors to firearms called Rockset. It's basically Locktite for machine guns.

Nice to see metal 3D printing - it may let you build more of your ideas too

Cover the ceramic printed parts in glass glaze after removing the support material and put the parts back into the kiln.

Video idea: Instead of making ceramic parts, try to do PLA lost casting to get metal parts

The sponsor time is gold such a comedian

Look up the special effects used to create fire tornadoes to put greater spin on the vortex. Maybe cutting grooves for a seal, or a second skin. Possibly a special add-in to take the leak and redirect inside?

Integza: the man who insists on making things from materials that definitely shouldn't be used for that purpose.

The great science and engineering content aside, seeing this man light off literal rocket/jet engines in his uninsulated attic makes me feel less guilty about my neighbors hearing me play the drums.

You need 1/4 turn shut off valves to quickly shut off fuel/oxidizer. A regulator on each would help you control the mix better

Add some interlocking labyrinth sealing between parts. Also you can fill it with something. Also you can add water cooling, it's 3dPrinting you can manufacture any structure. Also maybe water will stops some leaking.

Somebody tell this man about the leak-before-break criterion, or: why we need to get integza an SLS machine

Integza wasn't kidding when he said skillshare can help improve the quality of the vids, dudes got animations coming in yo

If you use a sealent bath it could seal the one part engine while also making sure it is really completly sealed. I think it is likely that the dried out resin causes Micro Cracks or Channels building so Immersion sealing is the best way to make sure it seals completly

So much violence, so much flames. I WANT ONE

Try to print the entire chamber double-walled to ensure an insulated air space between the inside and outside with only small connecting junctions. This way you can seal the outside without having leakage issues due to thermal stress.

Intagza:started the vortex jet. Vortex jet:started leaking and burning. Integza:hmm (tires 3 more times) Vortex jet:still burning. Integza:it appears to be broken

@Integza when you re-lit the Single piece engine at 14:09, fire did not escape the crack half way back at the injection vein. this means it only failed where the force of the combustion was the greatest near the exhaust. If you could reinforce the area near the exhaust or even Rifle it.. you might get better results. GREAT STUFF