At $27.00 a gallon for Evaporust vs $9.98 a gallon for muriatic acid, it might be a cost factor.

Thanks for sharing your experiment with us 👍

commercial acid pickling solutions often have some phosphoric acid to prevent flash rusting, but it too leaves a dark film on the metal.

great video - been ugin evapo rust for quite some time now and I'm super happy with the results - I combine it with an ultrasonic cleaner using only water for a good finish, though you can use some other chemicals too! tanks for the video!!

Hydrochloric acid does a better job removing the rust, so use it first, brush it, and then soak it in Evaporust to prevent the flash rust.

I use Evaporust and have very good results with it. Plus, it is safe to use, biodegradable, and easy to clean off. The instructions say to re coat your item after cleaning it, and let it air dry to prevent rusting, and it seems to accomplish that. Regards from Canada 🇨🇦

First, just outstanding content. Much to see here and learn. But caution is advised as some of the chemistry below does require knowledge of what you are doing, and also requires some protective gear such as goggles and chemical gloves. Which is best... depends on what result you want and the items to be cleaned or de-rusted. The Evaporust is formulated to be "use, rinse, dry, and proceed". The HCL really has no instructions on the label since it is used for so many different applications. Only some of them for rust removal. The procedure for use of HCL is much more drawn out and difficult if you want the same results you get from Evaporust. First is a soapy alkaline wash to remove any oils and grease. Rinse. Then add HCL to water to make a 3% to 4% solution. You should also consider heated solution to shorten the time, but ambient temps will still work as it adds a few hours to the job. Then in a home setting, you would remove the item or items, and rinse. Then immediately dip into baking soda solution and scrubbed into the parts to neutralize the acid in the pores of the metal. (this is the step that prevents that orangish color from blooming up). Then a quick clean water rinse. If you want the "gun metal gray" finish with some blueing to it, there is a similar procedure that actually keeps the parts submerged from start to finish, and requires only ONE batch of liquid. However the chemistry of the batch changes as you go through form alkaline soapy to acid, to neutral to very slightly basic, to a dump and full rinse under a hose. In this process, some of the iron removed is actually plated back onto the part as an iron oxide component called magnetite that then can be buffed and polished with oil and made to look like the heat treated black iron parts... Not a very practical process for most home enthusiasts. And as such, most folks short cut the procedure and it does flash back to orange pretty quickly.

I'm putting my trust in Evaporust over the acid, just for safety reasons alone

Not sure whether the trim on my stove is CHROME or STAINLESS... and want to remove rust. Have some HCL on hand but a bit fearful to use it. Regrettably cannot remove the parts (welded) so need to paint on the chemicals, not sure how long to leave them on. But this video was helpful gives me a clue on what to expect. Thanks.

I had just asked the question in my head as to what would happen if you used acid and then evapo-rust. So glad it occurred to you too. I've always disliked that black tint left by evapo-rust. This looks like a happy medium.

Ottimo lavoro fratello, complimenti 👍👍👍👍👍

I hear Evaporust is very safe on metals but leaves black residue, did you experience any pitting with Hydrochloric acid? Judging by the video, the best method would be to pre-clean the rust with Hydrochloric acid then followed by Evaporust afterwards? Thanks for any advice.

Citric acid is the value winner in rust removal.

I use muriatic acid myself, but you have to watch it so it doesn't continue into the metal, & then you neutralize it. As far as Evapo-Rust goes if you are willing to double the wait time cleaning vinegar works just as well.

I use hydrochloric acid a lot, but always rinse the part in clean water then soak the part (for aprox. the same time it was in the acid) in a washing soda bath. I've found, especially cast iron, that some acid can remain absorbed in the material and it needs to be neutralised. Colin

Weird test as you if you had just coated the section with the hydrochloric with some wd40 or any oil, it would not have flash rusted. It is literally stripped to as bare metal as you can get - the evaporust is a converter. what i like to do is clean deep rust with hydochloric - neutralize it and then throw some phosphoric on it because that will clean up the rest and leave a coated part that will not rust.

I use evaporust all the time for rust removal. If you clean the parts first (degrease, wire wheel) that helps a lot. Yes its slower but not having to worry about acid burns or eating away the metal and its water soluble makes it far superior in my opinion.

@AJ Restorations, been stressed out lately and your videos videos help me sleep

What percentage of hydrochloric acid did u mix with the evaporust?

I have seen this stuff in Aus recently and tempted to try it. Great comparison.

HCL eats metal, just like vinegar, grinding, sanding etc. Evapo-rust does not. Depending on what you are de-rusting would depend on what you use. Vinegar works too but it also removes metal. Large heavy metal pieces use HCL, smaller, machines or delicate parts use evapo-rust.

Evaporust is way better and non toxic also it doesn't flash over rust afterwards

I have used simple apple cider vinegar for years with excellent results. It's cheap and effective.

I did 100% HCL. Worked great but bad acid burns on my hands. Moderate oxidisation though.

Just media blast it and you're done and ready to prime and paint... Works for me...

Hydrochloric Acid is also known as Spirits Of Salt.

8:58 That's misleading. That's surface rust because you left that part in the presence of water and oxygen (either blow dry or keep submerged. The presence of both allows for the chemical reaction that is rust). But yeah, in general, go with EvapoRust. It's a chealator instead of an acid, so unless you know what you're doing with acids, it's safer

Ok,deja vu,this is first part from a video posted one month ago...anyway,good job !!! 👍👍👍

Dude!! Safety!! I'm not sure how strong your HCl is, but please wear gloves!! Also goggles.

I say that it's up to you whichever works best for your needs. More important is the cost of each of the products in your town

HCl do better if percentage Mol percentage higher

Always use soap or any other base on parts you cleaned with Acid. You need to neutralise it.

I did this with some bolts from an old farm winch. Noticed a garlic like smell, internet say its Arsine, hope I dont die😢

Mixture of Hydrochloric Acid and Evaporust is much better... Is that pure steel or tin???

Interesting comparison. Evaporust can be reused, what about the acid (how do you manage the acid after use)?

That nail scratch, with earphones in. Gave me the creeps

shouldn't things soaked in an acid solution, need to also be soaked in a basic solution to neutralize the acid? or will that also create worse rust?

Did I miss how long you let these items soak? Thats important .

All fine and dandy but I'm trying to do my roof in my horse trailer. Do I need a gel rust remover or can I spray on evaporust? Will it have the same effect as soaking? I find thousands of videos on things that fit into containers but nothing for larger surfaces

Evaporust is by far the winner because it doesnt eat the base metal. Though it is expensive.

definitely better from the stand[oint of no acid etching of the metal. Yes more expensive but way better if you seek finishing the piece. One wants to remove the rust without attacking the steel.

if you don't mind it eating your metal use acid it has it's place and uses

Now I'm curious. Where in the world is hydrochloric acid "ClH"?

Evaporust is definitely safer.

Wow! I'll use hydrochloric acid then use evaporust.

Vinegar is the best non-toxic acid for cleaning metal.

price hypocloridric acid and price evaporust 4 one liter, please

I still don't understand - is Evapo-Rust better than hydrochloric acid for rust removal?

I prefer acid cuz when you are done you can drink it and listen to pink floyd oh wait

Acid is a lot cheaper

prefer less dangerous methods for removing rust like electrolysis

If you used hydrochloric acid straight it would work really fast. If you water it down your basically using vinegar.

Evapo-rust isn't all that great, I put a some in my 5 hp. gas tank for 24 hours to take care of the light rust and it did nothing to rust. I'm waiting on the local Harbor Freight to get in Iron Armor Rust Reformer.

Images you can smell

I couldn't tell if you were sticking your bare hands in the acid or not you moved between the parts so quickly! I was waiting for your skin to peal off!

Hcl il moooooore cheapest..

What do you use to neutralise the acid with?