Absolutely on all of your suggestion/directions. Have loved this product for years. Makes me smile to see next generations seeing how good it is.

Wax on. Wax off.

Well spoken! It's an antique not a new product! 😂🖌️

I maintain tv broadcast trucks with lots of nice woodwork in them. This is my go-to. 👍👍

I agree that full restoration of antiques usually removes value from the piece. What you did here enhanced the value .

Do you really need to use a steel wool? Can I use microfiber cloth instead?

I imagine the micro abrasions on the wool help absorb from increased surface area, a cloth will just polish

Do you apply the wax after or before?

Good Tip........I knew Brillo wouldn't be a good idea.

Women always looking to do things half a$$

Paper bags basically work like real fine sandpaper (like 1000 grit) on wood and polish it up.

@@yuugen23 steel wool, a paper bag, and fine grit sandpaper are not "rough" tools at all. They are on the "smooth" end of the scale that are more of a polish.

Paper bag is a great tip! thanks! Head slap! Why didn’t I think of that? Perfect way to soak up the excess oil, which has been a bit of an issue for me at times, especially when I’d like to put glass on top of a dresser or table. If you don’t soak up he excess , the oil will look cloudy under the glass eventually. Also you don’t want to leave oily residue on furniture because it can attract dust and dirt .

@@yuugen23 buffing with a brown paper bag is a great way to soak up the excess product that hasn’t absorbed into the wood, while leaving just enough. Genius, really! LOL As far as the oooo steel wool- I’ve never had much luck with that , although I’ve seen other people recommend this for years.

Thank you for this comment. I have very old kitchen cabinets and I never thought to use this product on them. I will now. Can’t wait to try it. 😊

At 78 I've been hauling around bona fide antiques from my parents and gp's for many years, from pillar to post all across the country. Somebody came in one day and snorted that my house (a real Vic) looked like a museum. I replied thanks even though I knew she meant it as an insult. I believe she was just jealous.

@@frostyfrances4700 I’ve had several people tell me they like how I use the various pieces I have. Also, lots were in the family or given as gifts. I seriously like the variety. 😊

Old English is only a polish and the effect will be temporary, but may be a better choice if you are dealing with a veneer.

I was watching this wondering, why steel wool? It seems like a brush would be better.......and easier.

It says that on the top of the can she’s using 😂

@@mickeyfinn457 It doesn't on top of mine if I recall correctly... how curious. I'll have to watch the video again to see if I can spot it and dig out my can and look at the top again. I guess some people just don't understand what the instruction is for or are so eager to try it that after reading directions on the side of the can they just don't notice what's on top. Or they do notice it but don't understand it? Ir perhaps it is on top of my can and some other people are like me and don't, ahem, remember it! :-)

What wax do you use? (specific brand?)

I thought the same thing with the brillo pad. Making more scratches along the way

If you take off layers, is it still an antique?.

You need to talk about what grade of steel wool and why steel wool. Then, when do you wipe it with a rag and what type of rag. Do you top coat? Does it really hide all of the scratches ? Do a side shot to show the surface reflection. Hope this helps.

@@georgemcdonald2455 I tried this product. Was not too impressed. There's a lot to consider and know prior to purchasing this product. I used the soft steel wool as well. I did not see a difference, unfortunately. My side bed table was probably not a real antique and probably stained, so no expert here!

Yep, yep. It goes on like magic and then, like magic, it disappears.

Yes, I have had it double down after you leave it overnight. It is a wonderful product, but it doesn’t cover everything nor does it retain its shine the next day.

You have to use the Feed and Wax after it dries. Also by Howard's

Not this stuff. It's amazing.

​@@moneymamagillis3867and don't forget the orange polish.

I’ve been in my house 10 years with the old cabinets from the 70s, dreading sanding them down or replacing them. I’m going to try this since you said that it worked for you. 😊

I'm hoping this will work on my cherry veneer kitchen cabinets.

Definitely not worth replacing good solid wood cabinets for the crappy ones they sell nowadays.

@liv tellez Yes. I put it on with rags I made out of old t-shirts. You don't have to use steel wool.

Great suggestion! What did you use to scrub the cabinets? Thanks.

I used in on a beautiful inlay table that had been used as a planter. It came out great!

Ich wohne in Deutschland und wollte mal fragen wo ich dieses Wundermittel bekomme? Kann mir einer das sagen

@@moniklein7876 Amazon sells it.

Danke 👍👍

Glad to read this post! We have original oak floors over 130 yrs old in the farmhouse we live in that was my grandmas. We love the floors and we love they aren't perfect - no way are we going to refinish them... they just need a little freshening up, I figured the Howard's had to work on the floors - so that will be a summer project.

Do you dilute it for floors?

2:41 As a furniture maker and restorer I can’t overstate that you must go in the grain direction. No circular motion.

@@DrewJacobson61 She did finish after working on the scratches, in the grain direction - although that may not have been clear in her instructions.

I'm glad to know that it works. I bought a used mahogany bedroom set many years that had scratches and now, of course, has even more. I was afraid to try this product, but now will give it a try.

THANK YOU for sharing that industry secret list of instructions! I may very well use this as a how to for renovating my mom’s 18th century furniture! We once had a friend fix the dining room chairs… Bless his heart he used brown wood glue to seal the industrial size nails he drilled into the back of the chairs & the legs. He was very proud of it as well so it made everything rather awkward lol That was in 1989 and I still feel the same cringe when I tell the story as on the first day 😂

@@obcl8569 Makes me cringe and it's not my furniture! How awful!

Do you wipe it off with a dry cloth after applying it?

I was looking for the person that would mention that it is not your regular kitchen pan scrubbing steel wool, it is extra fine

​@@alliesmom2946 wax goes on thick and tacky. And you clean / buff it off. It's just like a clear coat of paint but much thinner. And it's not dry. Just slick so it cleans easy. Fills in small scratches for a bit of shine.

Oh that’s a great tip on the drawers, I’m going to try that!

I love that product too...

When to use the orange oil before or after the Ofinish Product? Can you post the link of the Orange oil please.

@@jafrinajabin8049 please google Howard Feed N Wax. This should be applied LAST. Hope that helps!

Do you use Meguiar's in the same way as demonstrated in this video? Curious your process? I see Meguiar's is for cars, right?

@@jodycourt no, the Meguiar’s is used generally with a dual action buffer (I use a porter cable 7424xp). Meguiars uses microabrasives to gently and evenly remove a micro thin top layer of existing finish as you buff like all polishing compounds do. It’s basically very fine liquid sandpaper, they all are. The abrasives break down further as you buff to reach it’s intended “smoothness”, as designed. There are different grades of meguiars compounds depending on what you need and what gloss you want. Buffing pads help you pick further. Generally an Orange (medium) foam buffing pad and Meguair’s 105 (heavier cut) followed by 205 (light finishing cut) will polish anything satisfactorily. By anything, I do mean basically anything. Meguiar’s is generally marketed towards the auto industry but abrasives are abrasives and are pretty much universal. Things like steel will take a heavier cut compound or strong backed sandpaper. It’s a learning process but in the end there becomes nothing you can’t clean up with just those things. Stuff in this video is essentially just chemically stripping a layer off aided with the use of (an abrasive) steel wool and has an added wax/oil to make damaged areas darker and blend in. It’s a temporary fix. One wipe with mineral spirits and those areas will be right back. There is no real replacement for damage except putting the original finish back on.

I’ve done every piece in my house and now I’m asking friends if they’ve got anything that needs de-scratching 😁

Does it have other colors? Is there a way to turn a walnut colored piece of wood to black by this product? Thank you!

How long does wax last? I would like to do my trim but I worry it will wear off. Should I polyurethane over wax? Sounds like a bad idea lol

Would this work on furniture where the finish has "alligatored"?

When do you use the wax during the process and what is the wax called?

@@michelleherman5298 the brand is Howards and it’s called Feed and Wax. It’s a furniture conditioner. Think of it like lotion for dry hands but for furniture. It’s available at most hardware stores (I get mine at HD) and should also be available online

@@michelleherman5298 it’s the very last step after all other paint steps have been completed and allowed to completely cure. Read on each finish to see curing time. Most are within 7days but some can be as long as 30 days

There's different shades?

I was wondering about that. Specifically, I was wondering about the difference between this product and Old English scratch covering polish, which I think is an oil base + toner.

Huh! Cool! Still sounds like magic to me lo lol Thank you for the explanation :)

@@hennahannnah I’m an old school Old English lover. I still use it on my doors about Ontario year.

@@alliesmom2946 exactly:)

@hennahannnah I googled the ingredients of Old English scratch covering. You're right it's a mineral oil based.

What product would you use on really dry teak?

@@axjohn teak furniture? I’d try the butcher block conditioner because of the oil and wax. Its a pretty light product . If it needs something heavier , you can always try another type of product recommended specifically for teak.

@@alliesmom2946 I’ve never used the products in tandem. I see a lot of people say that they use the Howard’s feed and wax over the Howard’s refinisher , after buffing off the excess product, but I never have.