I just successfully completed a full flush: After installing the pan and removing the filler plug (indeed very difficult - I created a special tool with a cut off 8mm hex key, a 8mm ring-spanner and a 40cm long metal pipe in another metal pipe to fit over the spanner), I filled 2.3L (Via hand-pump from a 20L bucket of Nulon Automatic transmission fluid fully synthetic until it started to drip out. I removed the upper transmission pipe connected to the radiator (front, left top on radiator) with a size 19 spanner and placed a 10mm clear hose over that pipe and guided the hose down to a big bucket-like pan for the waste fluid. A second person briefly started the engine and stopped again on my command - with the engine on, the new fluid it pumping the old fluid out by that radiator pipe. After a short engine-on period I pumped again fluid in via pump (I left the clear hose from the pump stuck in the filler hole, wedged it in with another short cutoff from that hose, so it would not fall out). Then again briefly engine on, then off then pump. I think I did that about 5 or 6 times and during that time I refilled another 10L. Then I reattached the pipe to the radiator, let the engine run briefly and filled another 1.1L, while the engine was off until it dripped out. Then I let the engine run continuously, and this obviously moves fluid out of the low reservoir into the system so that I could pump another 1L in with the pump and then I reattached the filler plug - obviously still with the engine running (otherwise 1L of fluid would have poured out. Note: Be very very sure that you jacked up your car such, that it cannot fall onto you - I used 4 stands and 2 massive hydraulic jacks for added safety... Job done. So I used up a total of 14.4L of new fluid - looks like I had the impression that what came out of that pipe was still too dirty, even though it must have been new fluid already. Btw.: as explained in the comment above I let the fluid drip out for 2 or 3 days. The extra time definitely allowed more old fluid to come out. In total I got 5L of old fluid out that way. I hope that helps someone... Cheers, Peter

Hi Many thanks for your positive and complimentary feedback - it's greatly appreciated. Cheers Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

@@jaaagtv wow big question ! at 4:08 you said it was red Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF full-synthetic : IS ALSO RED : Looking at the website Compatibility PDF FILE : BMW and Jaguar : ZF LIfeguardfluid 6 & M-1375.4

Hi, did u had orange light on ( gearbox fault ) some mechanic did my car and he put red cheap oil in it , my car is broken now .

@@antoniogoncalvesb.pereirag8922 how long did it take before it broke?

@@macalvarezLA hello sir sorry for late reply , yes I’ve fixed it will upload a video and link it to you . If u have any questions or u need help please ask me . After the shit job from a mechanic it’s was 2 days later that my car got broken .

@@macalvarezLA hello sir yes I did if u need help lest me know

@@antoniogoncalvesb.pereirag8922 please! I need help big time!

Hi Bob - Thank you - it's appreciated.

Hi, Assuming you have the same ZF6 Transmission. You will need to lubricate the "O" ring seals on the connector sleeve to aid fitting. When the sleeve is fully inserted you can then push up the plastic lock latch. We had the same problem on our car in the video. But solved the problem with a little grease on the seals. Hope this helps. Rgds Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Hi - The fault display messages can certainly and most likely are (in your case) be the symptoms of a poor condition battery. The S Type electronics are really very sensitive and demand a good condition battery at all times - i.e. all cells in peak condition. If one or two cells are "low" this will cause error messages and faults. The battery may start the car okay but that doesn't mean it's in good condition. I can't relate to the Brakes slipping fault you are experiencing just now without actually seeing this for myself. So put that one on hold for now. The gearbox fault error you have could also be a symptom of the battery condition and may correct itself once you have the battery sorted. By the way we always recommend VARTA batteries as do Jaguar Cars. If the gearbox issues don't clear after sorting the battery then your transmission may need a software update and the "adaptions" re-setting. This is a Jag Dealer or Jag Indy job as special equipment is required. Lastly it is important on these transmissions to change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles. Old burnt fluid can/will cause all manner of drive faults. Hope this has helped.

Yes, much gratitude!🙏

Peter Kleinbussink one of mine the head broke off, had to rethread it. Not my best moment ha ha.

Hi Jon, Have to admit auto boxes are not our area of expertise and have only owned Jags with ZF boxes (I believe yours would have the J Gate Ford 5R55N box fitted). However you appear to be approaching the problems with gear selection in a pretty logical way - i.e. process of elimination. I would like you start with fluid and filter and then move on to electrics etc. Have you been able to connect a fault diagnostics reader to pull off the codes? Anyway good luck and do let us know how you get on and what you find. Rgds Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Hi - sorry for delay in response. The broken Torx bit was removed from the bolt head by tapping it gently with a short drift and a small hammer. The Torx bolt survived and was able to be removed with a better quality (stronger) Torx key.

heck out this Jaguar Tech \service Bulletin for details - jagrepair.com/images/TSB/TSB2/S-Type/307Gearbox/S307-09%20Harsh%20Shifts.pdf

Hi Jack, If you let me have the VIN number of your car I can check what auto box you have in your 2001 S Type. I can then check what parts you need and if there is a kit. There is certainly a kit for later models - so one for yours should be available.

Hi - The ZF gearbox you have will be the ZF 6HP26. It's a six speed box when "D" is selected. Use the ZF Lifeguard 6 and if it's your first fluid change then change the plastic fluid pad with built in filter. Cheers Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Hi yes you do. We added a note regarding this at the top of the video description.

Hi Josue, Very definitely yes. The transmission fluid should be changed at 50k miles intervals. If you have the 6 speed autobox then use the recommended ZF fluid and fluid pan with filter. Make sure you fit the updated size torx pan bolts although these should be supplied with the service kit. Have a read of the earlier comments in this video. Cheers Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Hi Paul, Always use the OEM parts for ZF Auto boxes - see link. - www.ebay.co.uk/i/263759398209

Hi Anthony, Check out the link at the end of my comment. 1) Only ever use the 4 door sill jacking points using the wind up jack supplied with the vehicle and only use it for changing a wheel. Never use a trolley jack at these points as the sills will be damaged and induce rusting. 2) There are specific points (4 in total) where you can safely use a trolley jack or car lift. These are on the main chassis. drive.google.com/open?id=0B_095gwViY_6Mlg2QW5rSFQzazg

The شفتك ي

Hi Drewno - I have attached a link below to the Jaguar S Type Workshop Manual which covers the transmission cooler. The workshop manual is for 2002 MY - 2005 MY but should help you. Brian - aka "The Old Man" JagTV drive.google.com/open?id=1kDSBMr7ZBc4NDhhCunKu77P9ANbDp_Hv

@@jaaagtv thank you for your help, Brian you are a gold men. :)

Hi, Have to admit that we have had no personal issues or experience with a TP Sensor in the ZF6HP26 Transmission. To answer your question on why we did a transmission service is to say that it was just a normal and somewhat overdue service. Please have a look at the attached pdf link. Page 24 does make reference to a gear selector position sensor and also the document covers known faults. Hope this helps and sorry we could not be of more help. drive.google.com/open?id=1S9o5VQOk5Y478oFFHws5ssQBWKQHUDiX Cheers Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Jag TV Thank you so much! I will be sure to look through this!

You're very welcome - do let us know how you get on and hopefully how you get it fixed. Good knowledge for all S Type lovers.

Check out videos on the gear shift box & cable wire...I'm having that issue too...

Also video: You think it's your transmission...

Hi Igor, Are you sure that it is the transmission leaking? A leaking engine oil pan gasket is very common on the 3.0L V6 engine and when it leaks oil runs down between the engine and gearbox around the bell housing. Remove the plastic deflector shield below the engine and carry out an inspection. Clean/wash away any oil with brake cleaner and monitor the leak over the next few days to see where it is coming from. If you want to send photos to me you can at jagtv.stype@gmail.com Rgds Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Hi, Regarding the two symptoms you describe I can offer the following comments: - 1) When you stop the car on an incline make sure you press firmly on the brake pedal to stop any movement of the car before engaging "P". Do the opposite when moving off this should reduce the clunk when selecting a gear. This is a common occurrence with auto boxes and parking on an incline. 2) Regarding the small jerk during gear changes at higher revs - this could be that the transmission fluid is due for a change (if you haven't already just changed it of course). 90,000 Kms (or 50,000 Miles) is when you would be well advised to change it. If you have read that Jaguar say these auto-boxes are "sealed for life" then that really is misleading. Under normal driving conditions change the fluid and filter every 90,000 Kms. Under harsh or severe driving conditions then change more frequently. The transmission fluid does get very hot indeed during use and over time can become burnt and looses it's characteristics. This can damage internal clutches which can be an expensive job to fix. I can't say for sure that this will "fix" the small jerk but definitely get the fluid changed at 90,000 Kms anyway. I hope this has been useful and helped point you in the right direction. Rgds Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTv

Jag TV thanks Brian, do you suggest full flush or just half top up. AND do I have to change the filter as well ?

At this stage you could just change out the fluid in the gearbox (circa 6 Litres) - i.e. leave the fluid in the Torque converter for now. However I'm not suggesting that you shouldn't do a complete flush just that it may be easier for you to just do the gearbox fluid/filter. The filter is an integral part of the plastic gearbox fluid pan. This is demonstrated in our videos for the ZF6HP26 fluid change. Have a look at the following forum link where the XF box is discussed in some detail. www.jaginfo.org/archive/index.php/t-36410.html Good luck Cheers Brian

Jag TV btw what do you mean by (circa 6 liters)

Around or approximately 6 Litres of fluid.

Hi - sorry can't help you with this as we don't do Audi cars. Contact your Audi dealer and he will tell you what transmission you have. If your transmission is a ZF 6HP26 then the procedure and fluid will be the same. Cheers Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Thanks for your answer, true my car have ZF 6HP26 transmission. Can i use ZF6 atf ? regards

★ Sυηαу İвяαiм ™ Yes ZF Lifegaurd 6

Hiya, What's the total mileage the car has done? When was the last time and at what mileage the transmission had a fluid and filter change? What is the date of manufacture of the car? This info can help me answer your query or at least point you in the right direction.

Jag TV 2002 str. 35000 miles on it. Never changed fluid in gearbox. Ride not agressive, no drift or launch..

Based purely on the age of your car and that it hasn't had a fluid/filter change I strongly recommend that you perform a transmission fluid service. (Recommend you use only OEM ZF fluid and parts). I also suggest that you get the "adaptions" reset and the transmission software updated. The service, adaptions and software update will need to be performed by a Jaguar Main dealer or Independent. However I would suggest the "Indy" as they will be cheaper. The service/maintenance work will very likely sort out your shifting problems. Hope this has helped. Cheers Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

At first glance your question sounds silly - but it is actually a good question, if you reword it: You should ask: How do I do a full flush? (Mixing correct fluid with wrong fluid is not good!). I got a pretty good idea, as I have just done a full flush on my '97 Ford Fairlane NL, and I am currently in the process of preparing myself to do one on my '04 S-Type 3.0. I'll let you know, when I am done.

Look for my comment way above from the middle of August 2022 (estimate the time-difference between when you look for it and that date and you will find it. In short: After letting it drip for 2-3 days I got 5L of old fluid out then the full flush, and I used up a total of 14.4L (even so not all of those 14.4L are now in the transmission, as my text above explains). Cheers, Peter

Hi They will be slightly different fluids - so I wouldn't advise mixing them.

Hi this independent Jaguar Garage has good reviews. Jagautos Independent Jaguar Service and Repair Specialists Unit C1 Langham Street Liverpool L4 4DA Tel: 0151 298 2685 (Anytime)

Cheers for thst.

+derek latham Hi, It is always of course difficult to accurately diagnose problems remotely. However it sounds from the symptom you describe that it could be power steering hydraulic fluid. If your car is the V6 engine then the oil filter is sited on the left hand side of the engine (viewed sitting in the driver's seat that is) and the power steering reservoir is almost directly above the filter and of course the fluid is red in colour so I would check this out. If you car has the V8 engine then the oil filter is sited at the front of the engine and the power steering oil cooler could be the culprit. Hope this has been helpful.

+Jag TV thanks for the quick reply, it's a v6 auto, yes the oil filter is up behind the ns front wheel, the power steering fluid resovoir is above the top mark and doesn't appear to be dropping. i take it there is no way of checking the level for the auto transmission?

+derek latham I've included here an extract from the Jag S Type manual explaining the fluid check and top-up procedure. Have a look also at our two transmission fluid change videos as these will assist you as a change of fluid uses the same principles as a check. It's in two sections as a reply doesn't allow for so much text. Section 1 Transmission Fluid Check and Top Up (extract from Jaguar Workshop manual) 1. The follow steps must be observed before starting the transmission fluid level check. 1. The vehicle must be on a horizontal ramp an level. 2. The parking brake must be applied. 3. The engine must be running for 2 minutes with the transmission selector lever in the "P" position. 2. Using a digital thermometer - Read temperature of the gearbox just above the plastic oil pan. (this is the only way you can measure the temperature of the fluid without special Jaguar test equipment) 3. Make sure the transmission selector lever is in the "P" position. 4. NOTE: Make sure the transmission fluid (gear box oil pan flangejust above plastic oil pan) temperature is below 30 °C (86°F). With the engine running and the foot brake applied, circulate the transmission fluid by: 1. Moving the transmission selector lever to the "R" position 2. Waiting for three seconds. 3. Moving the transmission selector lever to the "D" position 4. Waiting for three seconds. 5. Moving the transmission selector lever to the "P" position 5. Raise and support the vehicle. All vehicles 7. Place a suitable container under the transmission fluid filler plug. 8. WARNING: Make sure that care is exercised near rotating parts. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. With the engine running, using the special tool remove the transmission fluid fill plug. Remove the transmission fluid fill plug.

+derek latham Section 2 9. NOTE: Use transmission fluid meeting Jaguar specification.(Use ZF OEM fluid) If the transmission fluid does not come out of the transmission fluid filler plug hole the transmission fluid level is insufficient. If this is the case add the transmission fluid in 0.5 liter units into the transmission fluid filler plug hole until fluid comes out. 10. NOTE: Make sure the transmission fluid temperature does not exceed 50 °C (122 °F). If the transmission fluid temperature does exceed 50 °C (122 °F) stop the transmission fluid level check and allow the transmission fluid to cool until the temperature is below 30 °C (86°F). Allow the transmission fluid to drain from the transmission fluid filler plug hole until the flow almost stops. 11. NOTE: Install a new sealing washer. (optional but check old one is serviceable) Using the special tool or hex key wrench, install the new transmission fluid fill plug. 12. CAUTION: Make sure the transmission fluid fill plug is tightened to the correct specification. Failure to follow this instruction may result in damage to the vehicle. Using the special tool and a torque wrench, tighten the transmission fluid fill plug. Tighten the transmission fluid fill plug to the torque given by the calculation To make sure the transmission fill plug is torqued to the correct specification. Using the special tool and a torque wrench the following calculation steps must be followed. 1. Step 1. Multiply 35 Nm by the effective length of the torque wrench (1). 2. Step 2. Add the effective length of the special tool (2) to the effective length of the torque wrench (1). 3. Step 3. Divide the total of step 1 by the total of step 2. 4. Step 4. Set the torque wrench to the figure arrived at in step 3. Tighten the transmission fluid fill plug to the torque given by the calculation. 13. Remove the special tool. (hex key) 14. Remove the container. Vehicles with diesel engine 15. Install the transmission undertray. All vehicles 16. Lower the vehicle.

+derek latham You may also want to check the engine oil pan joint for leaks as this is quite common and driving blows oil to many places on the engine ancillaries and torque converter housing. (I still have to do mine)

Hi - yes we are still active and will of course help if we can. Could you confirm what model car you have this problem with.

Jag TV 07 STR

@@JMurdaF Hi James - Apologies for delay in responding. However I'm sure you will appreciate that attempting to diagnose these sort of symptoms can be very challenging remotely. So instead of going through a potentially lengthy diagnostic using the traditional process of elimination method I have attached a link to the Jaguar workshop manual which covers your issue along with related DTC codes and diagnosis. Have a read through this and also check out the Jaguar owners forums where people have experienced similar issues. An example of this is www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=72895 I'm sorry that I can't help any more than this just now and hope you get to the bottom of it very soon. The alternative of course is your local independent Jaguar Specialist as they will have the diagnostic equipment required. Regards Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV drive.google.com/open?id=10HVMFKdQ56oQ7kRSRhrbferahbvlBdaN

Clean MAF sensor, upstream oxygen sensor, change electric wires to spark plug

I think I will be able to answer the question, how many liters of FLUID a 2004 S-Type 3L (after second facelift) requires, in a few days, because I am bang in the middle of changing the TF (transmission fluid). I will do a full flush. Most people do not do a full flush, which is a pity.

Look for my comment way above from the middle of August 2022 (estimate the time-difference between when you look for it and that date and you will find it. In short: After letting it drip for 2-3 days I got 5L of old fluid out then the full flush, and I used up a total of 14.4L (even so not all of those 14.4L are now in the transmission, as my text above explains). - And I used Nulon transmission fluid fully synthetic, colour: red. Cheers, Peter

Hi Chapara, All cars whatever make or model can be problematic if they are not maintained correctly and in a preventive manner. Regarding their build quality - they are certainly not junk and from my 30 years experience as a motor engineer they are not poorly made. We have 3 x S Type Jaguars - 2003MY 4.2 S/C STR - and two 2005MY 3.0 SE. We maintain them on a regular basis and have had them for between 5 and 2 years. They have performed very well and better than expectations - but we do look after them. We always spend time looking for good examples before buying. Do remember that the S Type (X200) model was manufactured for circa 9 years (1999 - 2008 with two levels of change and face lift versions )and of course are no longer in production. I would certainly recommend buying one as you will love it. My advice is to avoid pre 2002MY models as the later ones have lots of the earlier "bugs" sorted out - go for a March 2005 - March 2006 3.0 SE (full facelift version) as Road Tax is still only £305 P/A. If you go for a late 2006 - 2007/8 the road tax is £500+ although the 2.7 Diesel is only £305 for the later models. I would avoid the 2.7 Diesel version unless you drive it every day on Motorways for best fuel consumption. The diesel version is expensive to maintain and has the dreaded DPF in the exhaust which is now subject to more stringent checks at MOT time as the rules have changed since May this year. Good second hand S Types are becoming increasingly difficult to find but they are out there with low mileage from 35,000 - 80,000 and with one or two careful owners that have always driven them carefully and had them maintained regularly. If you see one you like and have the Reg No then check the MOT history on the Government website. This will give you a good sense if the car has been looked after . All cars go rusty and the S Type is no exception. Have a look at the many Jaguar forums for info on where to look for rust. Door sills, front and rear wings and most importantly the front to rear brake lines which are concealed behind plastic under-body panels are just some areas. Finally if you find a good one then get someone to drive it that understands how the 6 speed ZF autobox should perform - if OK and you buy the car then get a complete transmission service done on it - i.e. oil pan/filter - ZF Fluid and electronics connector seals. This is shown in the video. Anyway I can understand your trepidation in buying one if your'e not familiar with the model - but if you get the right one you won't regret it. Finally expect to pay between £3,500 and £6,000 for a really good one. Expect to travel to find a good one as they are rarely on your doorstep. Good luck and hope this has helped. Cheers - Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Hey Jag Tv, I have just bought a 2006 (June) gorgeous jag Stype 2.7 executive. I love this car since I was living in Britain but I managed to buy one just now.. I’ve done two test drive before buying it and it had only one problem: in high rpm (@ 3.500) it had for a second some leaps before shifting, but that was all. The owner said that once the oil gets hot, the leap disappears. I’ve bought the car and after two weeks it started to give problems; while driving, the gear doesn’t shift properly, it is oscillating between 3rd and 4th gear a couple of times, between 4th and fifth, fifth and sixth making an rattling electric noise (when going down in rpm) and going up and down in rpm. This issue is more obvious when driving uphill. Also when I start the engine, the car is shaking slightly in sequences. I am so worried that I might have to change the gearbox. Please help me if possible! Yours sincerely, Jag fan!

P.s. no errors or faults identified by testers

@@lucacristian5919 Easy, service that tranny asap !

Utilizamos líquido de transmisión ZF-Lifeguard 6

Hi Luca, I'm sorry that you have this problem and I know it can be distressing especially at the thought of replacing the auto gearbox. Unfortunately you most likely have no recourse or Warranty with seller as you will have bought the car as "Sold as Seen" and knowing it had a gearbox problem at the time of purchase. Of course it is very difficult to diagnose your problem remotely as the symptoms may point to one or more causes. I can only recommend that you seek help from an Independent Jaguar Garage that has the equipment and knowledge to be able to diagnose the problem. It is strange that you say there have been no DTC Codes thrown up - that does sound odd. As a general rule problems with the 6 speed ZF box are associated with old and burnt transmission fluid which can in some cases lead to mechanical damage. Another but not as common is water in the transmission (as both the transmission and the engine are cooled by the main radiator) which will present itself not unlike the symptoms you describe. There is no "Silver Bullet" quick fix for transmission problems like yours and you will just have to get it thoroughly checked by an Indy with the right equipment and knowledge. I'm sorry that I can't be of more help just now but do hope you get it sorted soon. Do let us know how you get on as I'm sure other owners have had similar experiences. Cheers Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Jag TV Cheers “Old Man” 👍🏻 As you said, no warranty was given as i bought it from a private person.. I fixed an appointment in a Jaguar service (although in Italy there are not too many Jaguars S,X and XJ’s) and I hope they will not try to rob me off.. A guy that had a similar problem ( Stype 2.5 petrol from 2003 ) told me to try Lubegard 19610 Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx, which will clean the torque converter. I ordered it today and hopefully will work! I will come back with news once I get the Shudder. Thank you very much for replying back! All the best!

Jag TV thank you very much for giving me priceless info!! the Lubegard works, after 10 miles roughly! I can still hear some noise when kept il low rpm but very poorly. I reckon that after a few more miles it will disappear.. Nevertheless, the lube did his part really good!! I definitely recommend it! Bad news is that the oil in the gearbox is very messed up ( the previous owner told me he had just done it a couple of weeks before I bought it, bolloks) and I will have to change it with the filter as well @ €350. I will let you know how things will be going after I change everything! Thank you again!! P.S. love my Jag 👍🏻

@@lucacristian5919 Hi Luca, Thank you and it's good to see you are making some progress.

Hi - We cover this in earlier comments and it depends if the system is flushed or just the fluid in the pan is changed. Many thanks for watching.

Hi - The correct oil for the Autobox ZF 6HP26 is 'ZF Lifeguard 6 Automatic Transmission Fluid'. We show this at the start of the video. Thanks for watching.

@@jaaagtv thanks , someone did a shit job on my car , a mechanic put a cheap oil, . now it’s orange light on and gearbox fault , if i replaced with good ZF oil will it fix my car ❓ Thanks . He charged me £-150.00 for the job the oil was £-30.00 for 5 litres I think he used red cheap gearbox oil . Also how Maney litres do u recommend for me to buy . Thanks .

@@antoniogoncalvesb.pereirag8922 Hi Antonio - did the mechanic replace the gearbox fluid pan and the internal fluid filter?

@@antoniogoncalvesb.pereirag8922 Also read the link below to flushing and replacing autobox fluid. It will help you decide what you need to do. Get the fault codes read with an OBDII diagnostic reader which will help to identify the fault readout you are experiencing. www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/zf-6hp26-28-transmission-fluid-flush-diy-217150/

@@jaaagtv hello sir thanks for replying, this morning I’ve put my key on and started the car and the strange thing is that the ( orange light and gearbox fault ) is gone . For the moment gearbox is good , it’s about 3 litres of red oil in the gear box , do I need to do a oil flush ? Thanks .

Hi Manjot, Apologies for late response. I would always recommend that the connector sleeve and seals are replaced when doing a fluid and filter transmission service as you can only release the connector sleeve for removal with the fluid pan removed. Thanks for watching and good luck with the work. Cheers Brian aka "The Old Man" JagTV

Jag TV Thanks

which hex key you guys used I tried 9/64 but am unable to remove the oil pan

Hi Manjot, The fluid pan bolts are TORX Head bolts and not HEX Head. The original size is T27 the later upgraded size is T40. Be careful when removing as they corrode and can snap off. Hope this helps Cheers Brian

Hi - Yes pretty much. Think ours took 5 1/2. That's just the gearbox of course. The whole system including the torque converter and the cooler is around 8 liters.

Hi what oil should I put in my s type 2007 2.7 diesel. thanks

Hola: la transmisión no se puede llenar con éxito desde la tubería en el radiador, ya que debe seguir el procedimiento correcto para el llenado. Publicaré un enlace al procedimiento como extracto del manual de taller de Jaguar.

Hola, haga clic en el enlace para ver un extracto del manual de taller Jaguar S Type. Lo siento, está en inglés, así que tendrás que traducir. Buena suerte. Brian - JagTV drive.google.com/open?id=0B_095gwViY_6R2kzNmhfVW9pMDA

Gracias por su ayuda, le comentaré como salió todo

@@alvinnote2markvision943 De nada - Buena suerte

Hi Jose, Do you mean the TCM (Transmission Control Module) connector? If you do then in this video it was changed because it was leaking transmission fluid over the back of the gearbox - so it had to be replaced. It is always good practice (advisable) to replace the TCM sleeve and seals whenever you change the transmission fluid and filter as you can only gain access to the TCM sleeve lock when the oil pan is removed. Hope this has answered your question. Thanks for your interest.

+Jag T V jag tv canada calgury

Hi Mike, Defiantly recommend you change the TCM seal even though it is dry just now. The connector sleeve can only be released when the transmission pan has been removed as the 'lock tab' is inside. It's a real pain if you don't change it and it leaks in a couple of weeks time. Yes change it. Make sure you lubricate the seals when you refit the sleeve. Good luck. Cheers Brian

@@jaaagtv , thank you for responding. I'm very frustrated with mechanics in my area. I've replace most every component on the car including fuel injectors , supercharger emmissions etc. I've done all the work myself except injectors. The injector problem was solved but the guy who did repair reused a gasket and I had a vac leak. I brought to another shop and they " fixed " vac leak but car still idles rough and stutters around 3k rpm. I have a scan tool for jaguars and my LTFT is 19.4 both banks and decreases as rpm increase . I'm stumped and frustrated . The car has 220 k miles was an everyday driver and was kept in new condition . Any suggestions ? I've check spark plugs gaps , coils most everything I can. I ordered a smoke machine should get in few days

@@mikejacobs4727 Hi Mike, You're very welcome. It's always difficult to diagnose fault symptoms remotely. The smoke machine will of course be helpful regarding the possible vac leak though. Sorry I can't be of more help at this time. Let us know how you get on. Cheers Brian

@@jaaagtv , I just wanted to give you and update . I ordered a smoke machine and tested the system. I had a major vacuum leak and a small one . The big one was the crank case vent hose . It goes from passenger side across the motor to the back of the engine . I've owned the car for 14 years and don't know who put cloth tape around the pipe to " fix " it . The pipe was broken under the intake inlet in front of the engine very hard to see. Car runs like new again thank God . The second is a gasket that was never installed on exhaust side of EGR pipe when I had the injectors done. I'm waiting on the last gasket to take care of that one. I used a process of elimination when I started looking for the problem PO171, PO174 . I Checked the fuel pressure 48 lbs , steady under load so fuel pump and regulator are good . We have new injectors , coils and plugs . 02 are functioning as should be . Mass air flow sensor 4 - 4.8 %. So that left me with air was getting into the system . I can't tell you the pride I feel having fixed what 4 shops wouldn't bother or couldn't find to fix. I'll be doing the trans service this week as I received the zf 6 replacement oil , pan gaskets valve bodies and bolts . I'm gonna upload a video of all the challenges from finding parts , electrical connectors etc. to maybe help the next person with information. I've learned so much about this car and don't understand why when trying to get it serviced auto shops roll there eyes and are very negative about attempting to repair these beautiful machines . I feel I have a good working knowledge of the car to help people or maybe a mechanic or two. I've encountered every possible obstacle you can think of. I also replaced the motor mounts last week. Amazing how smooth the car rides no vibrations . Anyway thank you for your time. Mike One other important repair I wanted to share also. The brake booster hose connected to the intake elbow . Someone glued the hose into the opening ! It had a vacuum leak. I cleaned out the brass fitting and I carefully threaded a brass nipple into the opening and reconnected the brake booster . This seams like a a more permanent fix as apposed to the rubber o-ring design which will fail at some point .

@@mikejacobs4727 Hi Mike, Many thanks for the update it really is good info for all the S Type owners out there. I must say you really seem to have got to grips with your S Type and its workings - well done.! I'd really like to see your video when you have completed it. Good luck with the transmission service although I'm sure you won't need it as you seem like a very capable guy. Glad you got the vacuum system sorted - makes all the difference doesn't it. Take care. Cheers - Brian

Yes - correct. However we changed the fluid again a few months later which will to a greater degree have compensated for that. Thanks for your comment.