I have never seen that last clip from Adidas Rockstars. That was outrageous 😄

Jan Hojer is olympic's routesetters slenderman in their nightmare

I wonder, how much trouble or embarrassment do you get when somebody finishes your route by not taking it at all.

Jan Hojer grabs over 2 m distance. Routesetter: Are we a joke to you?

6:32 "Nice route. I think I'll pass."

Short climbers: if only I were taller Tall climbers: if only I were shorter Average climbers: guess I just suck

I loved watching Jan skip like 90% of the problem in Vail. Was so fun to watch!

This last beta... I would love to see the routesetters' live reaction😂😂😂 Jan is amazing!

It's all about the neck bro

This is the really the ultimate "work smarter not harder"

From 5:24 onward the announcer and music blended together to form an absolute banger of a hip hop track

Just as an old wise man at a local crag once told me, "there are two kinds of climbers: good climbers and tall climbers."

Just found your channel, and I have to say that your Beta Break series is one of the most entertaining looks at competition climbing I've seen, and I look forward to more episodes. That last problem he broke was soooooo cheeky! The setters were probably pissed off by that one!

as a tall climber myself, Jan hojer is GOALS

The Canadian climber was really good and I thoroughly enjoyed watching him climb.

it's easy to get tunnel vision with route setting because you yourself know the intended beta. Especially if you're vertically challenged you can't even fathom things that are instinctual and basic to taller climbers until you see the beta get broken. Happens a lot with zig zag routes.

That one at the end is the reason climbing is the best spectator sport.

Please do a video on tamoa and how his short height helps him. Really love this series! :)

Cool Video. I also am 6'2" guy with a 6'6" wingspan and I have to solve certain problems differently because it is much harder to do anything that requires raw strength due to the distance I have to pull.

I discovered your channel last night and I'm loving your content. I just started getting into climbing and this videos are very inspiring.

This is such a cool series, thanks for making it!

You should add 2017 munich boulder worldcup final men's #1. On the last second he tries his own beta, which was only way to send it in left seconds, and he wins the cup.

fantastic channel dude, loving this content looking forward to seeing you grow your channel in the future

Very nice video! Time to watch them all!

Very interesting serie! Thanks!

Dang you’re gonna go far kid playing in the background was kinda perfect on the last clip

I'm so glad this was recommended to me

Excellent analysis and video presentation!

I just started climbing a month ago and this channel has taught me so much. Keep up the good work!

You make amazing videos. I am a country boy from Arkansas and I've always been a try climber lmao Now as a 23 year old ots been years of nonstop working and never even really having time to get out in the woods and do the things I love but your videos have inspired me to find a local climbing facility and get up some walls! Ever since I found your channel I've been making plans to gather some friends and hit a place in NWA or Little rock. If anyone out there knows a good climbing facility for beginners, maybe a place that's not to crowded or challenging where we can really get some learning in would be great!

Dude this channel is great!

I am myself 10cm taller than Jan Hojer and telling by my own experience being tall is oftentimes an advantage, but not always. Sure, sometimes I can skip holds (especially in easy boulder) and sometimes I can even find a unique way to solve a harder boulder. But then again I have problems "fitting" under the holds, that means I struggle to hang on the long arm. Another common thing is that I flag out much harder in dynamic moves. And sometimes the levarge in moves just kills me. If I would be remotely as trained as Jan Hojer I could use my size to my advantage more often. But anyway I am convinced that my size is not the optimal height for bouldering. I am 1,97 by the way (with like 200cm span).

I feel like he's my spirit animal😂 skipping holds and big reaches are my thing

Your channel is going to be huge soon! My climbing coach just sent all of us this video, which should tell you something about the quality of you videos. Keep it up!

Great video thank you! 👍

Will you show the many many occasions when Jan Hojer's height makes it basically impossible for him to do certain moves?

this is so much more instructive than just watching people climb

This was a really good video! Very well put together, your narration was super smooth too and worked well with the editing.

I love how at 6:25 it looks like he's hacking from inside a video game, like, "Oh, I can just hang from the top of the screen. what now... you want me to put my hands on this one? Okay, happy?"

Brilliant jan Hoyer

Nice video Albert! Cool comparison of two very different climbers

Awesome video 👍

oldie but a goldie

OMG 6:25 is craaazy! hahaha that's awesome. Love your beta break series, keep em coming! :D

Great vid! I love that all body types have advantages and disadvantages in climbing! I'm 5'10 with +3 ape but man some of these lankier guys are something out of this world

tremenda fuerza y destreza la de este hombre.

Great video!

one of the better beta breaks

I just love Jan Hojer.

Thanks for showing how much of a beast Sean mccoll is!!!

Pure gold

i was like "wait. what? jan hojers ape index isnt as big as i thought... oh wait... that number was given in something american, probably football fields per burger"

Wow so cool to see hojer crushing the board in the old chimpanzodrom

Love these vids. I don't think anyone else is making videos highlighting these moments. Would love to see more of these (like and sub)

I'm not a climber - not by choice because I'd love to do it just for fun, anyway - but your BB series really made me love climbing (sorry if it's not the right term) in about 18h... so good job on getting someone into the sport as a watcher with just a few videos!

Thanks!

Sup Albert, just stumbled across this lol. congrats on the youtube success my man

absolute legend

I guess Jan is the only climber that would have a super easy time to construct boulders that nobody else could climb. :)

watching the beginning with skinny fingers is something else man :D my fingers break just from watching

The last one was really outrageous...

5:10 vs 6:26 - This seems so obvious only after I've seen Jan do it.

Colin - what to do vs Jan - what looks cool

Good one

What a boss 👍

I liked the huge buildup and then the cut to Jan already holding the top hold, that's just what I came to see...

This was really encouraging! I am a 6'4" climber with a positive ape index and I always get people saying "tall people..."/*pshing*/shaking heads after I send a hard boulder problem by breaking the beta. This has made me self conscious thinking I am cheating and making me always try to follow intended beta without skipping holds. But now I think I will lean into my advantage and explore new creative ways of sending!

Anyone remember the comp where he climbed using the foothold from right towards left. While others did something differently (either or coordination jump/ on a slab )

Pretty funny having this recommended to me. Never knew you were into climbing. We went to high school together. :p

I think the hardest part about setting routes when he exists is not knowing his limits. Hes clearly the only one that does, and it would be such a specific mindset to be in to know this.

He cheesed tf out of that climb at the end 😂

To quote Lynn Hill: Tall climbers don't climb, they reach! ;-)

Jan Hojer been making route setters scared for years 😂

Reminds me of the UCI rulings against certain positions and equipment when they were “too fast”…including stripping victories from competitors because “ well, we just dont do it that way, so youre disqualified”…

Im 185cm tall and I have a +11cm ape index and Im light as a feather no matter how much I eat. I train when I want, Im lazy so it's not often, I only climb outdoors, I eat junk food and still climb at the level of my climbing partners who train 5-6 times a week, eat healty food and boulder indoors but have a normal human body. Life is good.

One thing I hate as a tall climber, is people saying how easy it is to 'just reach for it'. Besides the obvious downside at compression problems (fucking sit-starts...), something that rarely gets acknowledged is weight and leverage. A lot of the time individual moves are much more strenuous as a taller and heavier climber.

Pretty obvious which climber shows more tenacity and, in the end, is more impressive.

7:06 is this the gym in frechen (cologne)?

Florian Klingler pulled a similar stunt in Adidas rockstars 2019. The context made it all the more awesome. The finals are 4 boulders knockout, meaning the last climbers “fall out” until only 2 climbers remain for the 4th boulder (which they perform at the same time). At the time Florian approaches the 3rd boulder, he has one zone and one top in the bag. Yoshiyuki Ogata has two tops and Jongwon Chon has one zone and one top, but with fewer attempts than Florian AND he just achieved a zone on the 3rd boulder before Florian. Meaning to avoid knockout, Florian needs to top this boulder. The boulder is a hand jab boulder, which Florian does no seem comfortable with. After a few failed attempts, his future in this comp is looking rather bleak. Florian then turns around and hypes up the crowd to try the boulder one last time. He compresses between the two hand jabs, and then just jumps to the end, skipping the rest of the boulder. The crowd goes wild, and the commentator even remarks “He went very Jan Hojer there”. This was the first time I saw a skip like that in competition and the context made it super hype.

This was a delight to watch after my experience at the gym the other day. I finally sent my first v4-v6 climb after a week of projecting and 50+ attempts. Two days later I sent my second v4-v6 after two attempts by reaching up and gently touching the finish with both hands (I'm 186 cm), skipping over half the holds. It felt strange and almost like I cheated, but watching Jan Hojer do this in competitions and people loving it makes me feel better!

amazing think-fast climbing. mobeleash

This is interesting

I’ve always wanted to see 2 similar routes , one stretched for taller climbers to see how they would climb instead of reaching

what is the song playing in the outro?

Lol that's me at the gym, the routesetter even opened an anti tall boulder problem just to challenge me

Music at 5:25?

The last boulder, if I was judging, I would not have given credit for.

Jan and Sean are two of my favourite climbers. While this is a really neat comparison and I enjoyed the video a lot, I do think you should compare the overall results of World Cup/Adidas Rock Star events for Sean and Jan. I believe Sean has the edge in lead, while Jan in bouldering (Jan had a killer season a few years ago). Sean has won RockStars three times I believe. I only bring this up to show that while it can be frustrating as a short climber to watch a taller climber reach past your crux move, it does not mean taller climbers will always have an advantage. Sometimes as a shorter climber I have a much easier time doing certain moves than my taller friends, but the advantage is just not as obvious unless you look for it.

Bloody hell this is amazing hahaha

is there what's generally considered an ideal height? i've done some recreational climbing and i'm 5'9" with long arms but i have way too much muscle mass to ever be this good. i burn out my forearms way too fast.

As a 193cm climber with 201cm ape index I felt like I often couldn't do the beta I saw in videos for boulders : Too compressed, feet too high. I created this small channel (Tall Beta Climbing) to show a tall beta for some boulders, and even quite a few sit-starts ! I give my opinion too, if being tall makes it harder or easier. For now it is mostly in Fontainebleau and Rocklands but please send me videos if you are tall too (like 190cm+) !

Occam's Razor does not favour the simplest solution, it favours the solution with the fewest assumptions, which isn't necessarily the simplest.

Jan : "I have my own way"

The last problem from Rockstars 😂 I could sense the tears from the routesetters

Jan Hoyer... the man for whom the shrug emoji was created ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Amazing!

The offspring: "Hit em right between the eyes" Jan Hojer: 🧗👊🤷‍♂️ The routesetters: ... 😢

im 6.3 (191cm) and climbing is so much fun for because i can somtimes skip a lot of the hard parts and leave my friends in awe but it sometimes is a disadvantage as well. i only climb 6b+ so far but curious if it will help me on harder routes

what comp is that and from what year?

The routesetter now owns shares in the company that supplies black tape 😜

Skipping holds Getting top