isaac gomez it can be done and it isn't as hard as people make it out to be. the hardest part was figuring out how to do the springs in the front. advice I would give us to use a JK front axle and the match the bolt pattern use a spacer adapter on the rear. the Jk is wider and gives more room for a coil over, air shocks or coil spring. things to expect are custom front driveshaft custom brake lines fabricating all the mounts and steering box mount. good luck.

Thanks! It's an underrated rig for sure. I just wish the engine was as good as the rest of the vehicle.

To be honest it'll be a while before I get to the liberty again. It needs another engine.

@@nathanmitton4612 bummer man... is it a crd or 3.7?

@@maxrogers762 it's the 3.7, and this is it's 4th engines it's needed.

@@nathanmitton4612 damn bro! What r u doing to them things?!? Lol ...I'm really wanting to do a Liberty build, 40s and tons (or close to it). I really enjoy the look of something diffrent and the fabrication that goes into it! Hope u get it runnin soon!!

@@maxrogers762 thanks! Yeah I like seeing something different built up. The engines have just been weak. The first one spun a bearing the serving one overheated one time and cracked the block and head and this one spun a bearing. I'm thinking I need to do an engine swap and never have to worry about it again. They are a solid platform I just recommend the crd

JeepITguy that's good to know. Thanks

Str8sixfan I haven't found lights that I want to put in the bumper yet for turn signals. I can't decide if I want to go round or rectangle

JeepITguy yeah I used the little welder I had at the time because it reached the driveway. The box is bolted to the tubing that goes all the way through frame I have it welded to a thinner piece on the inside of the frame the tubes are welded to the Unibody and then to the plate in the inside and out. So the weld you see is only for added strength. The plate on the outside is welded all the way around and I cut holes in it and welded around those holes to get more inches. I have been watching it to see if anything sketchy is happening and have inspected it after every wheeling trip to see if anything changes. When I get my new welder setup in my new garage I'll probably run a new bead across the bottom and around some of the edges, but for now it seems to be doing ok. The steering is only temporary. Lol it has been on there for over a year now, I have never got around to changing it to a double sheer, but I have a plan in mind when I get more monies, but it also involved changing the wheel bolt pattern so I'm figuring stuff out with that.

JeepITguy I tried to get footage of it in action but that involves someone else filming and I always forget to ask someone when I go, plus since I got the rear axle re-geared all I have been able to do is snow wheeling and that is cold for filming.

Yeah it could still drive but it wouldn't be a comfortable ride. I haven't driven it in a while the engine is toast. Which is sad because it is one of my favorite rigs, just hate the engine.

David Twa thanks, its a work in progress

I like seeing this kinda stuff keep the videos coming man it looks like your doing a great job so far I have a 2000 jeep cherokee and a 1990 jeep cherokee

I actually built this one myself. I wanted something high clearance that tucked up nicely so I had to build it myself. It was completely one off as I had to make mounts for it on the sub frame and everything. I used cardboard and masking tape to build the bumper first out of cardboard and then transfered it over to metal.

angel catalan I don't have a shopping list, everything was custom and gathered over time. in the comments I have gone through what I did and that's the best I really can provide where it was all custom.

thx brother

They ride ok on the road, not as supple as coils but not as stiff as leafs. The flex great on the trail, but my rear would end up doing all the work. Biggest compliant would be the body roll. I need a sway bar to help control the body roll, and I would probably put it on the rear to make the front do more

If your bags are "t" together when cornering the air will go from one side to the other making body roll worse

I don't remember but I do remember it was higher than I thought it was going to be. I wish I had better info for you, sorry.

Fernando Saenz I built it.

JeepITguy I tried but I had to have someone else filming it an then send it to me and it didn't edit very well add cut off early so sorry. Soon I will hopefully get some footage. I have videos of the suspension in motion but not over anything really tough, just flexing.

JeepITguy kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f6qilM5j05yXgJs.html

Man it's been so long I can't remember the length. But the wheelbase isn't much longer maybe 2-3 inches

I'll have toeasure next time I'm around it for the lower and upper links.

I just got them from some dealer online that seemed like it was the best price. I believe for the size I got they were about $240 a piece.

I don't think my abs was working before so it definitely doesn't anymore. Lol

Nathan Mitton fair enough.

I changed them since this video but in this video they are aluminum 15x8 with the round holes, and then I painted them black. I'm not sure on the backspacing I just found them on Craigslist.

Because I like to build the less common jeeps. If I was only wanting a vehicle with a solid axle from the factory then I still wouldn't get a wrangler, I would pick a Cherokee or a grand cherokee. I think it is awesome to see the less common jeeps built for things. Wrangler builds are a dime a dozen nowadays.

@@nathanmitton4612 . I hear you but a Liberty is really an SUV with decent off road capability. On a unibody vehicle with no roll cage I won't go hardcore off roading. I put a 3" RRO lift and an ARB bumper on mine and it rides great in the city where I spend most of my time and it gets me through West Virginia back roads. Amazing accomplishment but to me it betrays the original design.

@@omarjones1460 yeah I love how capable mine was with a 2.5 inch lift and new upper control arms and 31's, but I did not like the way they made the lower control arm ball joints. Seems completely backwards to me. I wish they would have done it the way they did on the second gen liberty. I almost tried switching to the second gen control arms and knuckle assembly and then did a 2 inch block between the front suspension cradle and the unibody frame and then put on 35's but you can't put in lower gears than 4.10's and the diff is aluminum so it wouldn't handle the abuse the 35's would put on it so I just went straight axle. Mainly I wanted a reliable tough suspension and 35's so I could do harder trails and take the family with me.

Sorry no, lol. It was a lot of work. If I had a shop and all that maybe I could do some kind of work for other people but this was very custom and labor intensive.

Funny thing is I had a garage at the time and I still built it in the driveway. Lol

Lol right when you had the rough country lift which lift did you go with and did it eliminate the upper control arm with that lift ?

@@hoodiehansolo3360 I did the spacer above the strut lift and I think if I did it again it would have been a spring lift, it would be worth the extra money. And then I bought rocky road control arms later.

Yeah I plan on putting on high steer arms for double sheer but didn't have it done by then. I have it set up different for now but I also don't drive it cause the engine needs replaced again.

@@nathanmitton4612 excellent plan. Which engine is this? Have an 05 that may be given to me, I want to know what sort of problems to expect.

@@burntkat I'm kinda thinking about going to a chevy 4.3 v6 just cause this is the 3rd 3.7 I have gone through, granted they were all junk yard engines. I have found so far you can't be low on oil at all. Not even a little and take it in the hills. So always make sure it is full. The other thing is these don't like to overheat at all. It overheated one time and not even that bad and it cracked the head and cylinder. The other time the transmission slipped and it over revved and spun a crank bearing.