Thanks David 😊

You can add pressure, but you don’t have to, when increasing the temp 😊

Hey, yes I have played around with that a bit. With my old setup it was a hassle to do it oxygen free, but I have a new setup now, where I can add pressure. So my stadard from now on is lower temp dryhopping :) There will be a video about in a couple of months. The big hazy US breweries are all dryhopping at lower temps. Scott Janish who wrote the book "The New IPA" is also dryhopping at about 10degC. And all the way down to 2degC, but that proved to be too much hassle, so he settled on 10degC, I think I saw in an interview on KZfaq. The good flavours aren't really impactet by lower temps, but some of the green flavors are lower with the lower temp . Hopcreep can/will be less - anecdotally - I don't think this is porven, yet. Scott Janish has published an article, which you can find here: scottjanish.com/dry-hop-best-practices-using-science-as-a-guide-for-process-and-recipe-development/ Basically here is what it says about dryhop temps: "Quick extraction has even been confirmed at temperatures as low as 39°F (4°C), compared with 68°F. Specifically, linalool concentration was measured over 2 weeks at two different temperatures. The authors found peak extraction at day 3 (near maximum extraction on day 2) for both the cold and warm dry hops. The warmer dry hop resulted in slightly less linalool than the cold dry hop (12). Another paper also found that cooler dry hop temperatures had minimal impact on fruity and floral monoterpene extraction compounds (linalool and geraniol) in beer at 33°F (1°C), 39°F (4°C), and 68°F (20°C). However, the warmer temperatures did increase β-pinene, β-myrcene, β-caryophyllene, α-humulene, β-farnesene, 2-undecanone, and 2-tridecanone concentrations significantly (1). I believe that the types of compounds extracted in higher concentrations at warmer temperatures are ones we generally want to minimize in tropical fruit and citrus-forward IPAs" Further along in the article he talks about hopcreep: "One way to reduce the enzymatic activity from dry hopping is to keep the beer relatively cool. Oregon State University research concluded that shorter (1 or 2 days of contact time) and lower temperature dry hopping at 50°F (10°C), compared with 68°F (20°C), created fewer fermentables. Essentially, there is less chance of hop creep when dry hopping is done cooler and quicker. There appear to be two schools of thought related to dealing with hop creep. The first is to dry hop warm with extended contact time to encourage any hop creep to happen in the tank, until such time as VDK tests are passed. The other is to do it cool (50-58°F [10-14°C]) and for short duration to try to reduce the overall enzymatic activity that is taking place. At Sapwood, we take the cool and short-duration method and have not had hop creep issues in our cans to date. Other breweries like Great Notion (process described above) take the opposite approach with success. " Actually because of this I invested in a new setup with steel pressure tanks and a hop dropper, so I can do everything "the right way" - or the easy way! ;) All oxygen free with no hassle :) It's almost a life changing experience ;)

@@Beerstories Great info and thanks for the link! It does all make sense nicely for sure. Janish mentions the two schools of thought for fighting hop creep, and in my latest (first proper neipa ever really) I kinda combined both of them. I first dry hopped for 1g/L during active fermentation on day 3. This was in hopes that if there was to be any kind of hopcreep activity, it would activate at this point. As I opened the lid (using a fermzilla flat bottom), I also put in my bigger dry hop charge. I use magnets quite similarly to yours in this video. Purged the headspace with co2 from a sodastream bottle + a silicone hose, and then finally dry hopped at like day 9. The second dry hop was at 7g/L and at 14c - I lowered temp from 20c to 14c, waited for the temp to settle and dropped the hop bag in. I went to check/adjust/screw around with the fermentor like 12 hours later, only to accidentally drop the rubber seal of the fermentor into the beer. I figured that it was the best to bottle it right away as tomorrow it would be ruined. Low and behold, 100% hop burn free, nice neipa in bottles. Really happy and proud of my beer haha! I really think the lower temp is crucial for dry hopping, many other Finns seem to agree. How is the homebrewing scene in Denmark? Here it is quite nice and tightly knit, we have a big discord channel with LBHS owners chatting there as well, among with a few hundred people as well.

Perfect, sounds like it turnes out a great beer :) I also think lower dryhop temp is important. But when people do it without a pressure setup, they will suck in oxygen. Just like when they cold crash and that's not good. The homebrew scene in Denmark is pretty good. We have two big forums on Facebook and we attend some beer festivals together. So slowly we get to know eachother in the area where we live :)

@@Beerstories I use a balloon filled with co2 with a silicone tubing attached to the airlock's place. I try to place it around the end of fermentation. Silicone hose makes a nice tight seal. Very DIY but works okay. Biggest worry is messing something up manually, such as fumbling with the balloon, dropping something etc at a critical time. Good to know that homebrewing is in a good shape there as well!

@dyyddson I’ve done that too, but got tired of all the hassle and saved up money for a setup with a hop dropper 😊